London
W1J 7NB (nearest tube – Green Park)
Tel 0203 146 8666
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The Food
Vegetables, flesh and bone, bread and broth
Celeriac, avocado and angelic seed in pine broth
If a restaurant is the nexus between food and wine then Hide is London’s most important opening this year. Born with a platinum spoon in its mouth, Hide has everything: the location, the chef, the staff, the decor, the wine and behind it all, money... a lot of money. That is no shoo-in for success, but it helps. Given how Hide’s existence stems from wine, it is likely to become an oenophile Mecca, and I have a duty to give Vinous readers the lowdown. Allowing them six weeks to settle in, I wanted to see whether Hide would impact London’s restaurant scene in the same way as Hedonism did for fine wine retailing.