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Album Review of Dry Cleaning – New Long Leg

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

The first time I heard of Dry Cleaning was when I caught Scratchcard Lanyard on BBC Radio 6, the title alone alerting me to something different, two unconnected words co-habiting a title that is totally meaningless and yet…scratchcard lanyard…yes, they belong together. It sticks in your head.

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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present

Spain, featured

Josh Raynolds, Apr 2021

Change comes slowly in Rioja. Many of the winemaking practices that were in place when the region was established in the third quarter of the 19th century are widely used today. Grapes are pressed traditionally and most of the best wines are aged, sometimes for many years, in oak barrels of various sizes, with a preference towards American oak. Many winemakers see oxidation during aging as an asset, not a flaw, that when done correctly, brings the unique perfume, complex flavors and supple texture that make serious Rioja among the world’s greatest wines.

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Remembering Pio Boffa

Vinous Remembers, featured

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2021

The news came over the weekend. It was not unexpected, but shocking just the same. Pio Boffa had succumbed to COVID-19 after a two-week battle in the hospital the texts said. And with that, Piedmont had lost another reference point.

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Cellar Favorite: 2018 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Célébration

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

A few years ago, I was fortunate to attend an evening tasting of ancient vintages from Louis Jadot reserves, a cornucopia of rare bottles stretching back to the 1860s.

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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now

France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2021

It all started innocently enough with a few bottles of 2005 Bordeaux during lockdown. Then a few more, and then some more after that. Before I knew it I had tasted through a good number of the reference points. The wines were absolutely thrilling, just as I remembered from my last large tasting of the 2005s, about five years ago. One of my close friends suggested a comprehensive look back at the vintage, so here it is.

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Vino Nobile & Carmignano: Italy’s Forgotten Noble Reds

Italy: Tuscany, featured

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2021

Italy is one of the world’s most fascinating and diverse countries. There are of course famous wines like Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo and Chianti Classico. But the country is also home to many other wines that have enjoyed periods of prominence mixed with less brilliant eras of near obscurity. Vino Nobile and Carmignano are two wines with long, rich histories, deep connections to the land and much for the curious wine-lover to explore.

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Tuscany Odds & Ends

Italy: Tuscany, featured

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2021

This brief update mostly covers a number of Tuscan wines with releases that fall in between my larger regional reports as well as a handful of notable wines that were missing from our database.

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Cellar Favorite: 1980 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

Invited to supper at a fellow wine scribe’s abode in Beaune last October, our host served this little gem from one of Burgundy’s less heralded vintages.

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Vinous Table: Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

Le Relais de Saulx served one of the best evening meals I had in Burgundy last year. I enjoyed its cozy and informal ambiance; it’s one of several recent additions to the Beaune restaurant scene that is refreshingly relaxed and unstuffy.

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Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa

South Africa, featured

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

Postponed several times due to matters beyond my control, thankfully the intermittently showstopping wines of South Africa were worth the wait, proving that the pandemic has not slowed down the momentum of the Cape.