Seldom has a vintage been better suited for tapping the awesome abundance of talent that has accumulated along the 135 circuitous miles of the Mosel between Trier and Koblenz, where sites and growers are testing one another’s potential with increasingly exciting results.
featured, United States: California
A remarkable comprehensive tasting at Bond Estates in March spotlighted the consistently high quality of the Bond wines and brought their distinctive terroir character into sharp relief.
France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites
Hudelot-Noëllat is one of my favorite Burgundy domaines, as I love their highly refined, almost ethereal style of red Burgundy. The domaine was run for roughly thirty years by Alain Hudelot-Noëllat, who stepped down in 2008 and handed over the stewardship of the domaine to his grandson Charles van Canneyt.
Les Vapeurs is a delightful place to have an easygoing, delicious lunch or dinner when vacationing in France’s beautiful seaside towns of Trouville or nearby Deauville. Simple dishes and fresh ingredients abound at Les Vapeurs. Mussels, shrimp, lobster, clams, but also steak and fries are the mainstays. It’s a bustling, inexpensive place in which to eat, while kicking back, relaxing and watching the seemingly never ending crowd of vacationers stroll by on Trouville’s main boardwalk.
featured, Italy: Center & South
The latest releases from the beautiful and generally underrated Abruzzo region demonstrate that the difficult 2016 vintage growing season was tough on white wines, but newly released reds from 2015, 2014 and earlier are not just good but in many cases outstanding. Improvements are afoot in Molise as well.
featured, Italy: North
Friuli Venezia Giulia’s Schioppettino is one of the world’s most interesting and potentially great red grape varieties. Schioppettinos are especially characterized by an enticing green peppercorn note that is extremely typical and juicy, bright, mid-weight frames. Ronchi di Cialla’s Schioppettino is an iconic and historic wine in the true sense of those words, and Italy’s finest expression of the grape.
featured, United States: California, Cellar Favorites
It’s always a pleasure to have the opportunity to revisit some of the reference point wines that have emerged from Ridge over the last few years. As I have written in the past, if the United States had a formal classification of estates, Ridge would be the equivalent of a Bordeaux First Growth.
Italy: North, Vinous Table
Venice’s Osteria Alle Testiere is one of my favorite dining spots in the world. I repeat, in the world. Small, cozy and always packed, getting a table is nearly impossible so plan and reserve ahead. You’ll be rewarded with one of the best, most authentic cuisines of the world’s most beautiful city.
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
With the 2015 vintage, Châteauneuf-du-Pape stakes its claim as one of the Rhône Valley’s top growing regions for white wines. The better examples are now equal in quality to many of their highly esteemed and generally better-known northern Rhône cousins, even Hermitage and Condrieu. Unfortunately, there’s not much wine to go around.
featured, France: Champagne
I have had many memorable tastings at Roederer over the years, but this vertical of Cristals from the 1970s might go down as the most remarkable yet. For the occasion, longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon pulled out all of the Cristals of the 1970s, nine wines in total, all of which we tasted from the original disgorgements. The wines were moving for their extraordinary beauty.