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2024 Bordeaux En Primeur: The Razor’s Edge

It’s no secret that Bordeaux endured a challenging growing season in 2024. Despite the ups and downs of a year that featured heavy rainfall and constant disease pressure, among other events, the most skilled winemakers found a way to make gorgeous wines. The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre

During my recent trip to Beaujolais, I was treated to a smattering of mature bottles that proved once again how exquisitely Gamay can age. None more so than this delectable ten-year-old Morgon popped open during my visit to one of Beaujolais’ most renowned producers, Marcel Lapierre.

Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York

The phrase "neighbourhood institution" connotes a restaurant where passionate, talented chefs with attention to detail have sustained it through the years, a restaurant that stands as a beacon of quality. Henry's End might have opened over half a century ago, but standards remain high and people still love it.

Northern Mendoza: Velvet Comes Back into Fashion

Not so long ago, Argentine reds were turning heads for their mixture of rich flavors and velvety textures. The heartland of that velvet era was Luján de Cuyo. In this new stage of development, the velvet has returned, only this time accompanied by more modern wine styles. From Luján to Primera Zona and the East, this report focuses on over 300 superb sun-kissed wines from the north of Mendoza.

Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective

It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal—however, there is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality. Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand.

McLaren Vale: Pushing the Refinement Envelope

There are few better places in Australia to discover cutting-edge wines than McLaren Vale. Formerly a key home for large-scale commercial winemaking, McLaren Vale has transformed into a base for artisanal, terroir-driven winemakers with an increasing focus on single-vineyard wines of distinction. The 2022 vintage in particular offers insights into an exciting future.

Cellar Favorite: 1979 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé

The 1979 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. At 45 years of age, the 1979 remains timeless, a testament to how well Champagne can age.

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette, Champagne, France

I am always on the hunt for new places to eat in Champagne. Located in the Cazerne Chanzy Hotel & Spa, literally in front of the Reims Cathedral, La Grande Georgette is a welcome addition to my personal list of favorites.

Buy Some, Try Some: Beaujolais 2022-2024

At a point when savvy wine consumers are seeking value for their money, there has never been a better time to get into Beaujolais. This report takes a look at new releases, mainly from the 2023 vintage, the best of which demonstrate the underestimated heights these wines can reach.

Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013

The second edition of Bouchard Père & Fils’ time travels through their enviably deep library comprised a number of vintages ending in the number “three,” all served blind at the domaine’s headquarters in Beaune. This tasting revealed a clutch of remarkable bottles from forgotten vintages.

English Still Wine: Much Promise, Much Afoot

Though eclipsed by the success of English sparkling wine, English still wine has come a long way from the meagre image of yesteryear. What has happened in the past decade is remarkable: Climate change, increased growing expertise and the exploration of new regions have made all the difference. With a track record of excelling in cool and marginal climes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are undoubtedly the stars. These two chameleons shine on this Sceptred Isle. Much is afoot.

Cellar Favorite: 2006 & 2003 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée

Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvée is one of the most consistently outstanding wines in Champagne because of how well it shows in both strong and challenging years. The 2006 and 2003 are peaking today, making them fine choices for readers who enjoy mature Champagne.

Vinous Table: Le Petit Sommelier de Paris, Paris, France

Le Petit Sommelier de Paris specializes in French comfort food favorites. Proprietor Pierre Vila Palleja offers classic bistro fare along with one of the most interesting lists in Paris.

The Brutal Beauty of Sardinia: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages

Sardinia continues to thrive despite a climate that is searingly hot and incredibly dry. Navigating the region isn’t easy, as the island can seem like a continent due to its size, but the effort is certainly rewarding. Between its compelling native varieties, diverse terroir and high concentration of skilled winemakers, Sardinia is positioned for greatness.

Middle East Update: Lebanon and Syria

Complex histories, diverse terroirs and a mix of international and native varieties shape the distinctive wines of Lebanon and Syria. While Lebanon's winemaking industry is well-established, Syria’s remains far less developed. This report highlights and closely examines 12 recent releases from Château Musar, Château Marsyas, Château Kefraya and Domaine de Bargylus.

2025 Champagne: New Releases

My annual March trip to Champagne is always one the highlights of the year. Many producers are preparing to launch their new releases. At the larger houses, this is the time when winemakers are finalizing their blends and deciding whether or not they are going to bottle their tête de cuvées. With spring around the corner, thoughts start to turn to the young vintage and what it might bring. This year, things were different. Deep concerns about the global economy cast a pall on every tasting. That’s a shame, because Champagne continues to be one of the most dynamic regions in the world.

Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021

Henschke is one of the most historic wineries in Australia, known for unforced wines that showcase their various terroirs. The annual Henschke release is a true vintage snapshot of Eden Valley.

Vinous Table: Le B., New York, United States

Le B. is a Manhattan restaurant that is unashamedly inspired by the past, offering a stellar cast of classic French dishes in all their indulgent glory.

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023

Château Giscours is a storied Margaux estate that has, in some ways, been “rebuilt” over the last three decades under Estate Director Alexander van Beek. This article tells the tale and examines the terroir and techniques, signposted by a vertical tasting of the wines from the thirties to the present day.

Alsace 2023: Astonishing Whites and Splendid Reds from a Complex Year

Dry, dry, dry. This is how Alsace growers remember the 2023 vintage. Sandy, gravelly sites on the plain suffered and stony slopes struggled, but sites with more water-retentive soils fared much better. In 2023, the Rieslings have concentration, moderate alcohol, ripe acidity and great aging potential. The stylistic spectrum of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer is as broad and diverse as ever, while Pinot Noir is getting finer and finer.

Cellar Favorite: 1948 La Tour Blanche

Some bottles are more poignant than others, inextricable from the occasion, the place and above all, the person associated with the wine.

Vinous Table: Parcelles, Paris, France

Vinous readers spending time in Paris will want to book a table at Parcelles. This small bistro/wine bar offers refined cuisine and a superb list. On this cold yet sunny winter day, the cozy, retro dining room is drenched with light, creating a perfect Parisian atmosphere for a relaxed lunch.

Southern Italy: Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria & Molise

The wines of southern Italy present many challenges for the discerning consumer. While the potential for excellence exists, winemakers often focus on making forward, easy-drinking wines. A number of cultural factors may contribute to this trend, including wineries prioritizing local sales and a general reluctance to embrace innovation. Nonetheless, many exceptional estates are widely deserving of considerable attention.

Strutting Peacocks: Raymond-Lafon 1979-2021

This vertical tasting focused on recent vintages, with several older bottles dating back to the 1979 vintage. Raymond-Lafon can produce exemplary Sauternes that equal the elite.

New Zealand Whites: Never Gonna Give You Up

An island nation at the bottom of the earth renowned for its native flightless bird as well as "Flight of the Conchords," New Zealand has made a name for itself around the world for its light-filled interpretations of Sauvignon Blanc. As Marlborough looks back on half a century of Sauvignon, it seems the country has a complicated relationship with its star performer.
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