May 19, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s
The Santa Cruz Mountains remains one of the most intriguing regions in the United States for the inquisitive oenophile. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and, more recently, Rhône varieties are rarely as vibrant and nuanced as they are here. With a few exceptions, the Santa Cruz Mountains is still very much under the radar, which presents a terrific opportunity to discover wines that offer world-class pedigree at prices that continue to be quite affordable.
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May 17, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
The 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons at Age Ten
As the 2011 Napa Valley Cabernets reached the ten-year mark, revisionist thinking about the wines started to surface. Had the Cabernets of this much-derided vintage turned out better than expected? Absolutely not! The top 2011s were always gorgeous. Today, with the added benefit of bottle age, the best 2011s are showing especially well.
May 12, 2022 - Neal Martin
Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur
Aside from widespread frost, constant rain, humidity, rot, muddy terrain, June’s biblical deluges, leafhopper infestations, a cool and overcast summer, delayed vine growth, spun-out véraison, stubbornly low phenolic ripeness, shortages of pickers and an incorrect weather forecast in the eve of harvest…the 2021 season was a piece of cake.
May 10, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism
The 2021 Bordeaux have turned out to be such a surprise. Weather conditions were challenging, and yet the top properties turned out gorgeous, classically built wines that will absolutely thrill readers who appreciate freshness and energy. Restrained alcohols and mid-weight structures will remind readers of Bordeaux pre-2000s. The best wines offer a striking combination of old-school classicism with modern-day precision. Quality is inconsistent though, so choosing carefully is essential. Even so, there is much to like in the 2021s.
May 11, 2022 - Joaquín Hidalgo
2022 Argentina: A Harvest That Challenged Producers’ Skills
It is pretty unusual that in mid-April there aren’t many grapes left to harvest in Argentina, where winery doors typically close in early May. For better or worse, unusual weather makes for an unusual vintage. Overall, the 2022 harvest can be summed up as one of great quality. Bumps in the road could be overcome by good decision-making and precise timing.
May 5, 2022 - David Schildknecht
Saar Riesling 2019-2020: Selective Excellence
While you aren’t likely to mistake a 2019 German Riesling for its 2020 counterpart – least of all in the Greater Mosel – the two growing seasons had surprisingly much in common. And from that, there’s a lot to learn.
May 3, 2022 - Josh Raynolds
Santa Lucia Highlands: Back-to-Back Greatness in 2018 & 2019
The brilliant 2018 vintage in the Santa Lucia Highlands was a tough act to follow, but 2019 is proving to be more than up to the challenge. Finely etched, precise fruit is a hallmark, while the wines should age gracefully on their balance and well-integrated tannins. The 2019s can be drunk young or cellared; either way, they are going to deliver a lot of pleasure throughout their lives.
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April 22, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Artichoke, Amersham, UK
If you fancy dining outside the capital but do not fancy driving too far, then Artichoke is more or less on your doorstep. You could even take the tube there, even if that might be a long journey.
March 25, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: The Harwood Arms, London, UK
This dinner proved how a restaurant can operate at a high gastronomic level with the minimum of pretention. If you happen to be in West London, then you know where to go…and I will apologize in advance if our party just happens to be at the adjacent table.
March 18, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Noble Rot (Soho) - Rotter’s Christmas Gutbuster
Maybe I don’t believe in Santa as I did when I was child, but I do believe in celebrating Christmas with fine wines and company like this.
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91 points ($24)
2020 Bishop's Peak Pinot Noir
This 2020 Pinot Noir opens with zesty raspberry, blood orange and rose aromas, along with hints of cola and baking spices. Juicy, seamless and energetic in style, it offers sweet red berry and floral pastille flavors. Fine-grained tannins shape the finish, with spice-driven persistence. (JR)
90 points ($24)
2020 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco
The 2020 Pinot Bianco is fresh, with a bouquet of wet stone, savory herbs and dusty yellow flowers. Round and soothing in feel, its pleasant inner sweetness is matched by citrus tones and bright acidity. There’s lovely balance as saline minerals linger long through the finale. (EG)
90 points ($22)
2021 Marjosse Blanc
The 2021 Marjosse Blanc is terrific. In 2021, the Blanc has a bit more texture than normal, which works so well in playing off the natural energy that is such a signature here. Lemon confit, flowers, lime and a touch of marzipan all grace this engaging dry white from Pierre Lurton. (AG)
Cellar Favorites
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May 16, 2022 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1946 Figeac
During en primeur week, I attended a dinner at Château Figeac. Following a raft of wines in large formats that included the 1989 and 1975, the evening’s climax was a mystery wine that guests were invited to identify. A few brave souls raised their hands to give their tentative answer – all wildly off, not by years, but decades.
May 9, 2022 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 2011 Clos Rougeard Saumur Blanc Brézé
It was actually during a visit to Ducru-Beaucaillou that I chanced upon this week’s Cellar Favourite. Entertaining a fellow wine scribe for lunch, proprietor Bruno Borie invited me to choose their pre-prandial white before I had to shoot off to another appointment.
May 2, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
Cellar Favorite: 2010 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè
Luca Roagna’s 2010 Barbaresco Pajè is one of the Barbarescos we featured in a recent Roagna masterclass that kicked off this year’s La Festa del Piemonte; the other two were the 2014 and 2016 editions. From the moment I open the bottle, I know we are in for a treat.
