August 18, 2022 - Neal Martin
At the end of April 2022, I conducted what turned out to be the final tasting of Climens with Bérénice Lurton as owner. This article examines the château’s history and viticulture with contributions from Lurton herself, as well as dozens of tasting notes stretching back decades.
August 16, 2022 - Joaquín Hidalgo
Argentina is enjoying a resurgence in white wines. After several decades in which the focus has been on reds, producers have been exploring new, creative territory based on bringing out the best of the country’s cool, continental sites. The result has been an explosion in new approaches, several of which have produced excellent wines, but others have not fared so well.
August 11, 2022 - Rebecca Gibb MW
Over the past two decades the quality of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc has soared. The very best wines are inimitable, elegant, terroir-driven and sensitively handled. They deserve to be discovered, in their own right, as superlative Loire reds, not a fresher alternative to Bordeaux Right Bank nor an affordable offering for Burgundy drinkers. Following four visits to the Loire in the first half of 2021, I was left wondering why Loire Cabernet wasn’t enough, why did it have to be benchmarked against other French wine regions that don’t make single varietal Cabernet Franc?
August 10, 2022 - Joaquín Hidalgo
In South America, some wines tell a story while others represent an entire era. There is no doubt that in Chile, Viñedo Chadwick is one of the latter. On my last trip to the country, I had the opportunity to explore 21 chapters of that tale, from beginning to end. Here is a journey through both the style of this Cabernet Sauvignon and the history of a terroir that has earned its name in Maipo.
August 9, 2022 - Neal Martin
When I asked Pichon-Lalande winemaker Nicolas Glumineau to pour off-vintages of his choosing, it turned out to be a surprisingly insightful and even enjoyable tasting. Time to venture into growing seasons hardly seen to learn more about this Pauillac Second Growth.
August 4, 2022 - Neal Martin
A vertical of South African Pinotage might sound like torture to some. When the wine is the Cape’s greatest Pinotage, then you understand why the room was packed for the first ever complete tasting of Kanonkop’s Black Label and why its owners and winemaker flew over for the occasion.
August 3, 2022 - Joaquin Hidalgo
What were you doing 25 years ago? A quarter of a century is a good chunk of anyone’s life, but time is always a matter of perspective. Whereas for some old-world producers 25 years can go by in the blink of an eye, in South America it represents an eternity. It’s hard to organize a vertical tasting that can adequately tell that story. But it is not impossible.
August 12, 2022 - Neal Martin
A small number of people, a small number of bottles, fantastic cuisine, first-class service and the usual lively cross-table banter – you could not ask for more. Prices are extremely reasonable within the current inflationary climate. If you are a Burgundy lover with time in London, then this restaurant has to be one of your first ports of call.
July 29, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
As great as the wines are, I am once again reminded that wines are made special by context, in other words the circumstances, places and people that surround them. This was a truly unforgettable night of food, wine, friendship and camaraderie. Until next time…
90 points ($21)
The 2021 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore wafts up with a bouquet of wild strawberries, roses and sweet smoke. It’s soft-textured and round in feel, with energizing acidity and a sweet-and-sour tug of tension. Finishes long and nicely structured. (EG)
92 points ($24)
The 2021 Rosé Ode to Lulu shows mineral-tinged aromas of red berries, nectarine and citrus zest complemented by herb notes. Silky and energetic on the palate, offering white peach, strawberry and tangerine flavors with delineation and tension. A floral note lingers on the finish. (JR)
91 points ($20)
The 2021 Nebbiolo Rusin opens slowly in the glass, displaying dried apricots, peach skins and sweet smoke. Soothing textures with brilliant acidity enriches its white cherry-berry fruits. Minerality and sour citrus linger as the 2021 tapers off with fine tension. (EG)
August 15, 2022 - Neal Martin
Hail, hail the wonderment of Essencia! Drop-by-drop, by mere pressure of gravity alone upon heavily-botrytised aszú grapes, a dribble of ultra-sweet, unctuous nectar so extreme that it challenges the definition of wine ekes out.
August 8, 2022 - Neal Martin
This Cellar Favourite takes a look at the Bordeaux dry white, Lune d’Or, an increasingly important part of Olivier Bernard’s portfolio. Prior to tasting the Domaine de Chevalier proprietor’s latest releases at en primeur, he opened every vintage since the debut to demonstrate the quality of dry whites from Sauternes and its ageing potential.
August 1, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
I was thrilled to open this eclectic collection of wines from my cellar during this year’s Inspire Napa Valley dinner at Staglin. It’s a rare treat to take a break from the hectic pace of tasting wines for review and actually drink a few things for pleasure.