### Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre 

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 28, 2025

During my recent trip to Beaujolais, I was treated to a smattering of mature bottles that proved once again how exquisitely Gamay can age. None more so than this delectable ten-year-old Morgon popped open during my visit to one of Beaujolais’ most renowned producers, Marcel Lapierre.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745847772569-CF_Morgon+2015+Lapierre.JPG)

The **2015**  **Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre** , whose vintage is discreetly communicated in Roman numerals (MMXV), has a sensual bouquet replete with raspberries and wild hedgerow, touches of pencil shavings and smoke. The aromatics are beguiling, very complex and focused, perhaps nodding towards Pinot Noir yet incontrovertibly Gamay. The palate is medium-bodied, with a fresh, vibrant entry and finely chiselled tannins. Tensile and extraordinarily harmonious with strawberry and cranberry towards the minerally finish, this is a sublime example of mature Lapierre in all its glory. Furthermore, based on this bottle, the 2015 will give at least another decade of drinking pleasure. **94** /Drink 2025-2035.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre (Apr 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 1979 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 21, 2025

Chef de Caves Didier Mariotti served this wine blind after my recent tasting of new and upcoming releases from La Grande Dame. The 1979 Vintage Rosé is fabulous. It predates the La Grande Dame Rosé by nearly a decade (first vintage 1988), so it was the house’s top Rosé during this era. The bouquet is immediately mesmerizing. Kirsch, dried flowers, mint and light pastry overtones all grace the palate. Creamy and exquisite, the 1979 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. At 45 years of age, the 1979 remains timeless, a testament to how well Champagne can age. Sublime. Disgorged: 2014. **94** /2025-2027.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745246450211-CF_Apr212025.jpg)

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright,but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1979 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé

Cellar Favorite: 1979 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé (Apr 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 

### Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée

### 2006 & 2003

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 14, 2025

Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvée is one of the most consistently outstanding wines in Champagne because of how well it shows in both strong and challenging years. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, Coeur de Cuvée emerges from 60+ year-old vines in the Blanches Voies lieu-dit in Rilly-la-Montagne. It is made from only the central part of cuvée (hence its name), where depth and textural finesse are at their most intense. Vinification and aging are done in 228-liter French oak barriques, with blocked malolactic fermentation. I tasted the 2006 and 2003, both original disgorgements, with Laurent and Thomas Champs during a recent visit to Vilmart in March 2025. I can’t say I was surprised by how the wines age, as I have tasted more than enough Vilmart Champagnes to have a clear idea of how enjoyable they are at this stage. The 2006 and 2003 are peaking today, making them fine choices for readers who enjoy mature Champagne.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744640181415-CF_Apr142025.jpg)

The **2006 Brut Coeur de Cuvée Oenothèque** is exceptionally beautiful. Rich and vivid in the glass, with magnificent balance, the 2006 is in fine shape today. Candied lemon peel, mint, marzipan, white pepper, baked apple tart and light tropical notes are so vivid in the glass. Still quite deep and layered, the 2006 will drink well for at least another handful of years. What a gorgeous Champagne it is. Disgorged: July 2013. **95** /2025-2030

The **2003 Brut Coeur de Cuvée Oenothèque** is even more surprising than the 2006 tasted alongside it. The first impression is one of a lighter year relative to 2006, but with age it is harder to tell how much of that is the vintage and how much is simply the passage of time. I was certainly not expecting this to be 2003. Medium in body and fresh, the 2003 is exquisite. It does not have the mid-palate resonance of the very best years, especially at this age, but it has aged impeccably and remains quite fresh. Pear, spice and floral overtones grace this very pretty, expressive Coeur de Cuvée. Spring frost and then brutally hot, dry weather in summer reduced yields by nearly 50%, resulting in a Champagne with very low acidity. Even so, the 2003 aged beautifully. I don't see it improving much from here, however. Any remaining bottles need to be finished. Disgorged: July 2010. **93** /2025-2028

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée 2006 & 2003

Cellar Favorite: Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée 2006 & 2003 (Apr 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | APRIL 7, 202

Henschke is one of the most historic wineries in Australia, with a history stretching back to 1868, when the first wines were sold under the family name. Henschke’s rise to the head table of Australian wine is not a story of meteoric growth, but rather more of a long, hard and deliberate slog for over 150 years. Like many of the early Lutheran settlers to the Barossa Valley, the Henschkes were initially mixed farmers, with grapes being only one of the many strands of the family business. However, over time, the Henschkes focused on grapegrowing and wine production, gradually adding to their land holdings. This led to the 1891 purchase of a small vineyard near the ​​Gnadenberg Church, which later became known as the Hill of Grace, and the eventual acquisition of the mature Mount Edelstone vineyard in 1974.

The Henschke home is located in the Eden Valley, high up above the Barossa Valley floor at an altitude of 400-500 meters. Estate vineyards fan out from the original winery, which remains in the spot where it was originally established in 1862. Importantly, Eden Valley is a subregion of the wider Barossa and differs markedly in both conditions and wine styles from its more famous neighbour. While the Barossa is home to robust and hearty wines, Eden Valley delivers a much more reserved expression of Shiraz. Eden Valley wines often have more in common with other parts of Australia than the classic Barossa style. In addition, the timing of key events during the growing season is quite different between the two regions, i.e., poor weather at flowering or hot spells in the Barossa may not be a problem later in the season in the Eden Valley, and vice versa.

There is always a traditional feel at Henschke—unforced wines that showcase their various terroirs. According to fifth-generation winemaker Stephen Henschke, “Henschke is about individual sites. We want to show the expression of our vineyards. There is not a lot of new oak for that reason. It’s about the vineyard flavours. It’s about the soils and the character of the region.” This transparent winemaking style, combined with a strong focus on sustainability, makes the annual Henschke release a true vintage snapshot of Eden Valley.

A key and highly necessary part of the pursuit of sustainability at Henschke has been the management of soil health, driven by Prue Henschke. The Eden Valley can be a harsh environment for vines due to unpredictable rainfall, particularly in hot, dry summers. The team focuses on building resilience in their vineyards to avoid the hard tannins and the baked characteristics that can emerge in the wines. There is a common misconception that old vines are less vigorous. But Stephen Henschke finds the opposite on their Mount Edelstone site, planted in 1912, where they utilise Scott-Henry training, albeit on a cooler east-facing site. “You would not believe the vigour in 100-year-old vines. The shoots cross over the rows. It just makes a difference, all those leaves working for us, producing flavour and colour. But there’s a catch: much more work in the vineyard and higher costs.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744034685529-Prue+and+Stephen+Henschke_Open+Top+Fermenters_Vinous.jpg)

_Prue and Stephen Henschke with their open top fermenters._

### Exploring Eden Valley

Henschke uses three quite different sites in the Eden Valley for top Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. The historic, own-rooted Hill of Grace Vineyard was first planted in the 1860s, with additional parcels planted in 1910, 1951, 1952, 1956 and 1965. The vineyard sits at 400 meters of elevation in a fertile valley and on a very gentle slope with various aspects. On average, it is the driest of the Henschke estate vineyard, with sandy loam soils over clay. Of the lineup of Henschke Shiraz, Hill of Grace is typically the most powerful and tannic, which was certainly on display in the 2021 vintage.

Mount Edelstone Vineyard is quite different. Also situated at 400 meters, it was planted in 1912 on its own roots, using vinestock material that likely came from the first Shiraz clones brought to Australia from Hermitage in 1832. A gentle east-facing slope with clay soils over schist yields a more ethereal expression of Shiraz. While Hill of Grace is often more highly regarded, the difference in quality between these wines is negligible.

Planted by Cyril Henschke in 1968, the lesser-known Eden Valley Vineyard is deeper into the Mount Lofty ranges at a higher 500-meter elevation with greater rainfall. The Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon and Wheelwright Shiraz both come from this site. Historically, there were a number of vineyards in the area at the time of planting, but many have now been uprooted due to the challenging growing conditions and low yields, particularly in the cooler vintages that were prevalent before the 1980s. Undoubtedly, the northerly aspect of the Henschke Eden Valley Vineyard has been its saving grace.

Prue and Stephen Henschke added to the Eden Valley Vineyard in 1988, planting predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, although Merlot and Cabernet Franc make up one-third of plantings and are used interchangeably for blending depending on vintage conditions. Occasionally, in less favourable vintages, Henschke does not bottle any wine off this site. For many years, Shiraz from this vineyard was a key component of the Keyneton Estate blend, but it has been bottled separately as The Wheelwright Shiraz since 2015. This year, I tasted mini-verticals of The Wheelwright (back to the inaugural vintage, 2015) and and the Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon (back to 2009). These wines offer a fascinating counterpoint against the Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace, clearly showcasing the significance of vine age, but especially the character of the higher-altitude site. More than Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, the success of the Wheelwright Shiraz and Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon hinges on a kind season, due simply to the marginality of the site. In particular, Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine that can be truly outstanding when the weather plays dice, as occurred in the 2021 vintage. Its graceful, long-lived style and similarities with fine European Cabernet Sauvignon will surprise many.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744034872420-Henscke+Bottle+Shot_Vinous.jpg)

**The 2021 Growing Season**

Two thousand twenty-one was set up well from the start, with a hot 2020 providing plenty of sunlight and supercharging buds for the following season. Flowering took place under placid conditions for most varieties, with only Mataro and Grenache affected by strong winds. Frost in September helped to control yields in some vineyards. However, in the lead-up to veraison, the vineyards were still carrying generous crop loads, with some significant heat in November and December providing a solid base of fruit development. The real key to the vintage was green harvesting, which Henschke undertook around the same time in all the vineyards. The process lent greater concentration to the resulting wines but also set the vines up for what was to come: the coolest Summer in 20 years. During this period, there were only five days over 30°C and none over 35°C, keeping the vines stress-free up until harvest, which took place for Hill of Grace on March 30 and 31. Without green harvesting, it is unlikely that the wines would have reached optimal ripeness in 2021. In summary, a placid but cool vintage combined with moderate yields helped to craft some of Henschke’s best in recent memory.

_I tasted the wines for this report at the winery in February 2025. While the focus was on the new single-vineyard releases, the tasting also included an array of wines from Eden Valley, Barossa and Adelaide Hills._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021

Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021 (Apr 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 1948 La Tour Blanche

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 31, 2025

Some bottles are more poignant than others, inextricable from the occasion, the place and above all, the person associated with the wine. The 1948 La Tour Blanche was donated by Bill Blatch during January’s Southwold tastings, his botrytised contribution to our annual dinner. Blatch was feeling too fatigued to attend after the day’s intense tasting, and even though 1948 was his birthyear vintage, he insisted that we take it to the restaurant to enjoy. I cannot help feeling that somehow he knew that had the 1948 gone unopened, it would never be shared with his friends. It was, for all intents and purposes, his parting gift. This is not an auspicious vintage for Sauternes. The autumn was too dry to really incite botrytis infection. Nevertheless, this bottle was further proof that it takes a really deplorable growing season to produce a distasteful sweet wine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743429192452-CF_Mar312025.jpg)

Deep amber in hue, the bouquet does not explode from the glass, rather, it gradually unfolds with scents of marmalade, quince and fig, hints of mandarin and adhesive. Fine delineation. The palate is fresh with exquisite poise. Plenty of marmalade notes emerge once again, while noticeable acidity lends this Sauternes tension. The 1948 does not possess a sustained finish, so it scarpers out of the exit door a little hastily. Nevertheless, this Sauternes continues to give pleasure. **93** /100 Drink: 2025-2040.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1948 La Tour Blanche

Cellar Favorite: 1948 La Tour Blanche (Mar 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 1995 Ridge Monte Bello

BY BILLY NORRIS | MARCH 24, 2025

After a dizzying day of tasting and mingling with numerous producers and attendees at Vinous Icons NYC 2025, a small but mighty group of Vinous critics—Neal Martin, Eric Guido, Joaquín Hidalgo, Nicolas Greinacher and myself—assembled for an impromptu late meal and powwow at what Eric refers to as his “second office,” Keens Steakhouse in midtown Manhattan. A historical New York City institution dating back to 1885, Keens is best known for its dinosaurian mutton chop, its ceiling adorned with Victorian-era tobacco pipes, and the sense of proper old-school gravitas that permeates its numerous dimly lit, always slightly too-warm dining rooms. Though we hadn’t properly planned in advance, being passionate oenophiles ever-prepared for an impromptu vinous (or Vinous) gathering, each of us had brought along a bottle or two from home. This anticipatory move was a logical follow-up to the epic dinner Antonio Galloni hosted for the entire team in 2024, for which he generously raided his own cellar and poured a blind, flighted lineup supplemented by wines we each brought from our far-flung homes. It was on this night that the inimitable Giaconda Chardonnay Angus Hughson lovingly carried all the way from Australia rocked our collective worlds.

The meal at Keens was classic carnivore-centric NYC steakhouse fare done to a tee, but the parade of bottles—garnering puzzled looks from the neighboring late-diners—was the highlight. The wines ran the gamut from the **2006 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon** from Nicolas, to the **2019 Sei Solo Ribera del Duero** from Joaquín, to Neal’s **2019 Kershaw Syrah G.P.S.** from South Africa, to Eric’s **2018 Antica Terra Pinot Noir Antikythera** and **2013 Commando G Las Iruelas El Tiemblo.** I toted two bottles up from Florida for the hypothetical-turned-happily-manifested occasion, the **2012 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon** and the **1995 Ridge Monte Bello**. Even in such indubitably esteemed company, the Monte Bello stole the show.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742824300408-CF_Mar242025.jpg)

A wine of suave sophistication and supreme textural finesse, the 1995 Monte Bello is almost shockingly primary and fresh as a daisy. Cool-toned and elegant, clearly articulated and precise, it delivers a textbook “Monte Bello” profile of layered dark berry fruit, black tea, eucalyptus, tobacco and cedar. As the hours in the glass tick by, the 1995 packs on weight and builds concentration, stretching its legs and becoming ever more expressive. The ultra-fine tannins are mostly resolved, but there’s still a whisper of structure that ensures there’s zero risk of the wine coming unglued anytime soon. What impresses most is the long, lifted finish…one minute? Two minutes? Who’s counting? More importantly, who wants to wait two minutes between sips? Not me. Notably, the 1995 clocks in at 12.5% alcohol on the label (which spurred a sprightly post-hoc social media debate with some modern winemakers about this figure and its implications). This particular Monte Bello’s ability to deliver such compelling depth at such low alcohol speaks to a seriously special site and particularly calibrated winemaking. This is a superb effort by Winemaker Paul Draper and his team. Any way you spin it, the 1995 Monte Bello is fully in the zone, but there are easily many, many years left in its journey. **95** /Drink 2025-2045.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1995 Ridge Monte Bello

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Ridge Monte Bello (Mar 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2019 Niepoort Charme Tinto Douro

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 17, 2025

I have long been an admirer and drinker of Dirk Niepoort’s wines, both fortified and unfortified. A 2019 Charme Tinto Douro was drinking beautifully when I cracked open a bottle recently. This bottling comes from the oldest vines in Vale de Mendiz, Portugal, overlooking the Pinhão river. It was vinified in traditional _lagares_ with no destemming. The 2019 Charme has an open nose with brambly red berry fruit, raspberry and wild strawberry, perhaps a little Chambolle-like in style albeit without the Chambolle price tag (this cuvée frequently resembles Burgundy). Afforded time to open over three hours, the aromatics manifest autumn leaves and light vanilla pod scents. The palate continues in a similar style, the red fruit just edging into its secondary phase, the tannins melted and pliant. The texture caresses the mouth, with absolutely no hard edges and a lightness of touch toward the velvety finish, the sign of a talented winemaker at the helm. Prices remain exceptionally fair. Judging by the evolution of this 2019, it will easily cruise for another 15 to 20 years. **94** /Drink 2025-2043.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741880877930-Vinous_charme+2019.jpg)

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2019 Niepoort Charme Tinto Douro

Cellar Favorite: 2019 Niepoort Charme Tinto Douro (Mar 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 10, 2025

Head Winemaker Lorenzo Pasquini flew to the UK to present the latest vintage of Château Yquem. Meeting in central London, Italian-born Pasquini gave me the background on the 2022.

“Two thousand twenty-two is an extraordinary vintage in the sense that plenty of things happened that were out of the ordinary,” he began. “First of all, it was the driest and hottest vintage ever at the estate. Secondly, it was the year of wildfires. The fires didn’t touch the vineyard or the estate, but they did touch [the homes] of some employees. The hot weather led to a very early ripening and a very early picking for Ygrec that started on August 9, the earliest ever. It was important to preserve the natural freshness.”

Pasquini continues, “For Yquem, the grapes were uniformly ripe very early. That is the first condition for noble rot infection. By the end of August, we felt that all we needed was a bit of rain and then we could look forward to a September vintage like 1893, 2003 and 2011. However, September stayed very dry and so all we did was harvest some _passerillé_ (dried) berries. Botrytis began to form in the beginning of October, but it was humid and cold rather than humid with sun and wind. Consequently, infection tended toward grey rot, not noble. Believe it or not, the sugar began to lower as the botrytis began to eat it.”

He adds, “Everything changed on the weekend of October 15, when we had a strong southeast wind that dried the vines. At the same time, higher temperatures settled in. On October 18, it reached 34°C, the highest temperature for October at the estate. We had to radically change our approach and pick as fast as possible, since berries concentrated very quickly. We picked from October 16-22. By October 24, the fruit was too concentrated. We ended up with the most concentrated Yquem since 1945, which had 164 g/L residual sugar compared to 160 g/L in 2022. Another challenge was that given the level of concentration and low acidity, it was harder to maintain balance, because that derives as much from bitterness or saltiness as it does from sweetness. So, we chose a blend that could maintain the sensation of freshness. Since 2010, we have reduced the élevage from 36 months to 24 months while also reducing the number of rackings, which we believe lends Yquem more crispness and clarity. Studies at the University of Bordeaux have proven how lactones of the barrel and wine combine. We still produce half-bottles when ordered _en primeur_, and these are now sealed under Diam.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741615470063-CF_Mar102025.jpg)

The 2022 Yquem is a blend of 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc with 160 g/L residual sugar and a total acidity of 5.39 g/L. It is the first certified organic vintage for the estate and has the lowest level of total sulphur ever: 234 g/L, high within the sphere of wine but comparatively low for Sauternes. The 2022 was aged for 24 months in new barrels that underwent slightly less drying than those used for red wines in order to retain some green tannins. Given the growing season, the 2022 Yquem has a surprisingly understated bouquet that demands coaxing. Scents of orange pith, passion fruit and quince are exquisitely defined, a hint of chamomile dancing around in the background. The palate is medium-bodied. Given the high level of residual sugar, what is surprising is that the 2022 does not seem a weighty or texturally unctuous Yquem, yet there is an intensity and concentration that is arresting. Vivid flavours of clementine, wild honey, quince and tangerine that effortlessly combine. The acidity almost nonchalantly counters the sensation of residual sugar, so it feels less than it actually is, the scintilla of salinity toward the finish tempting you back for more. This is a marvellous and quite cerebral Yquem for which patience is required. **98** /100 Drink 2030-2100.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem

Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem (Mar 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: Ioppa Ghemme 1970-1975

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 3, 2025

History, expression of place, passion and artisan family values run deep at Ioppa. The Ioppas trace their lineage back seven generations, all the way to the mid-1800s, a time when life in the countryside was much harsher than it is today. This mini-vertical from the 1970s was a very pleasant surprise at the end of a day tasting through current releases. I tasted the wines with Giorgio Ioppa, his son Andrea, and consulting oenologist Cristiano Garella.

Pristine, meticulously stored bottles from the family’s cellar once again show just how well Alto Piemonte wines can age. These Ghemmes from the 1970s are Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Bonarda, with bit more Vespolina than is the norm these days. The Nebbiolo was mostly sourced from Balsina, planted in 1968 on alluvial soils with a high percentage of sand and rocks. The first plantings employed the traditional _maggiorina_ training system, a sort of open pergola with a high canopy designed to be easy to work while protecting fruit from hail and also leaving space in the ground for other crops, a reminder of the time not too long ago when farming mixed agriculture was the norm. Vespolina and Bonarda were sourced from older vines. Shortly thereafter, the family transitioned to a more modern row design at Balsina, quite novel at the time.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741013326576-CF_Mar32025.jpg)

Grapes were destemmed and fermented in cement, with no temperature control and using ambient yeasts, as was the norm. Ghemme production guidelines during this era called for a blend of 75% Nebbiolo and as much as 25% Vespolina/Uva Rara. The wines were aged in 20 and 25HL cherry and Slavonian oak casks.

All the wines were exquisite. I especially loved the 1970 and 1972, the former for its power, the latter for its intensity in a vintage where noteworthy wines are exceptionally rare.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: Ioppa Ghemme 1970-1975

Cellar Favorite: Ioppa Ghemme 1970-1975 (Mar 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 1992 Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 24, 2025

During the round of Burgundy barrel tasting in London, merchant Robert Rolls organizes a casual La Paulée at [St. John](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-st-john-lodon-united-kingdom-oct-2020), one of London’s finest restaurants. It always surprises fellow diners when two dozen people suddenly stand up and chant the “La La La” song with all the strange hand movements and cheering. This year, my good friend Lord Bruce, familiar to those that read my annual [Grouse Club](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-grouse-club-bouchon-racine-london-uk-oct-2024) lunches, raided his cellar and produced a gem of a Burgundy from a vintage more renowned for the whites. The **1992 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru** from **Domaine Hubert Lignier** was made by Hubert and his late son Romain, who joined Hubert that year. Showing light degradation in color on the rim, the 1992 has a precise bouquet with cranberry, raspberry and wilted rose petals on the nose, not powerful yet very precise. It gains intensity in the glass, never fading over the course of an hour. The palate mirrors the aromatics insofar that it is framed by lace-like tannins, exceedingly fresh and quite saline. But there is gorgeous tart red fruit at its core, with none of the greenness that you can find in other red wines from this vintage. Those with bottles of this in their cellar should not hesitate to open one, and why not sing the “La La La” song while savoring it? **94** /Drink 2025-2040.

 ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740152537672-CF_Feb242025.jpg)  
  
_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._  

Cellar Favorite: 1992 Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Cellar Favorite: 1992 Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (Feb 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 Late Releases

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 14, 2025

Following [Antonio Galloni’s take on this year’s late releases from Château Latour](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-chateau-latour-2025-new-releases-jan-2025) (the First Growth having exited the customary primeur campaign in 2012), here is my own take on the trio that will hit the market this March. The headline-grabbing release is the 2016 Latour, a vintage that I have tasted in bottle a couple of times at the château and at the Southwold tasting. Without doubt, it is a dazzling wine that will rank amongst the pinnacles of the decade, though I am glad that I waited 30 minutes to let it unfold in my glass. This was a useful time to chat with head winemaker Hélène Genin, the talent behind recent legendary vintages. Is it sexist in any way to suggest that I think Genin has lent this traditionally tannic and muscular wine that needed years to mellow a welcome feminine touch? Certainly, the 2016 is a vintage imbued with more approachability than say, the 2010, the tannins now a little more pliant with less bone-crunching grip on the finish. Having tasted over 60 vintages of Latour, I would not hesitate to place the 2016 amongst the top-tier vintages produced over the last century. Naturally, bottles ain’t gonna be cheap, but at least it is flanked by the 2019 Les Forts de Latour and 2020 Pauillac de Latour, the latter perhaps the best I have tasted and equal to some of the appellation’s Grand Vins.

It will be interesting to see how these releases fare in a market coping with strong economic headwinds and a softening of market prices even at the top end. Then again, it is Latour, and we are talking about arguably the greatest vintage of recent years. Tempted?

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739551284701-latour+2016+etc.JPG)

The 2020 Pauillac de Latour is similar to the bottle tasted blind at the Southwold tasting the previous January. Scents of black fruit and graphite emerge on the nose, still with that touch of melted road tar. The palate is medium-bodied, with blackberry and blueberry fruit, perhaps leaning more toward the former with a tad of strictness on the finish. If there is a better _Troisième Vin_ than this, I've yet to taste it. **92** /Drink: 2028-2040

The 2019 Les Forts de Latour has an open nose, strangely perhaps a little more expressive than the 2020 Pauillac de Latour at the moment. Scents of blackberry, cassis and iris flower unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crushed stone infusing the black fruit. This has attained more linearity since I encountered it in January 2023. The 2019 will give two or three decades of pleasurable drinking. **94** /Drink: 2030-2055

The 2016 Latour is a vintage that I have tasted a couple of times post-bottling. On one occasion, it warranted a perfect score, but that was then moot since this vintage had not been released. Now that it is due to hit the shelves this coming March, does the wine still merit that three-digit accolade? Without question, yes. Deep lucid deep purple in color, it seems to shimmer in the glass. The bouquet plays with you, a bit of a femme fatale, distant for the first few minutes. Then, it magically coalesces and gains incredible intensity with blackberry, pencil lead, background hints of oyster shell and notes of Japanese wakame. The aromatics announce exactly which château you are doing business with. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, again, as I found before, blessed with beguiling symmetry and ineffable poise. Residing firmly on the black side of the fruit spectrum, there is underlying _mineralité_. Veins of cassis run through the persistent finish. This is everything you could really wish for in a Latour. The 2016 can be uttered in the same breath as the 1900, 1924, 1959, 1961, 1982 and 2010. Magnificent. **100** /Drink: 2032-2075

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 Late Releases

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 Late Releases (Feb 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: Breaking the Rules 

### –

### La Chapelle Grange

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER AND ANGUS HUGHSON | FEBRUARY 10, 2025

At the heart of the terroir narrative is the prime importance of a site and the concept that fine wine is a reflection of a singular place and vintage. As such, there has always been an elitist snobbery toward blends, vinous Frankensteins for some, that lack the breeding of wines from the finest lieux-dits. The smaller, the better. This has often been a barb thrown at the New World and so-called _Vin de Pharmacie_, the underlying old-fashioned thinking being that Old-World terroirs have the edge and it is only through blending that complexity can be built into wines from the New World, which is patently false. Occasionally, however, there are worthwhile attempts to circumvent these conventions in search of new wine expressions. In a rapidly changing world where many wine consumers demand novelty and adventure, these are valuable projects, not only to broaden the wine narrative but also in search of new synergies and opportunities. Arguably, there has been no more surprising collaboration than one hatched in 2019 between the Frey family at Domaine de La Chapelle in France and Penfolds in Australia to combine two linked yet diametrically opposed wine styles and classic terroirs with the aim of creating a new, groundbreaking Syrah.

The links between these wines are not as tenuous as one would expect. Penfolds Grange was originally labeled as Grange Hermitage with the inaugural 1951 vintage, reflecting Winemaker Max Schubert’s lofty aspirations for the wine. Some of the first Shiraz clones brought back to the country by James Busby in 1832 were from Hermitage, providing an important starting point for Australian Shiraz. Both Schubert’s intent and what he delivered were quite incredible for the time, considering there were very few truly fine Australian wines in production. It was a genuine moonshot. However, the impressive early vintages, particularly 1952 and 1953, set the benchmark high, and while there have been ups and downs, quality over seven decades has remained at a very high level. Arguably, Grange’s reputation has only been enhanced under the guidance of recent Chief Winemakers Peter Gago and John Duval immediately prior. The blend is always Shiraz-dominant and exclusively sourced from South Australia, with Cabernet Sauvignon usually making up less than 5% of the final wine. Grange is partially fermented and then matured in 100% new American oak.

From the other side of the equation, anyone who has tasted older vintages of Hermitage La Chapelle, such as the legendary 1961, 1978 or 1990, will agree that these wines have the potential to be breathtaking. At the same time, other vintages, like 2000 and 2002, clearly fell short of expectations. The Frey family’s acquisition of Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné in 2006, coupled with the expertise of Bordeaux oenologist Denis Dubourdieu, gradually introduced greater consistency in quality and gave rise to a more polished style of Hermitage. While some Frey-era vintages have been notably successful (such as 2015), others have been less impressive. For example, the 2021 Hermitage La Chapelle, while a respectable effort given the challenges of the vintage, ultimately lacked ripeness, body and complexity.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739199948877-Vinous_La+Chapelle+Grange.jpg)

In that context, 2021 may have been the ideal moment to launch the inaugural wine of this new project, the assembled La Chapelle Grange possessing elements that were lacking in the 2021 Hermitage La Chapelle. While it would have been interesting to also taste the 2021 Grange on its own to determine whether La Chapelle Grange also outperforms Grange itself, Penfolds winemaker Peter Gago indicated that such a tasting wasn’t feasible at that stage. Ultimately, though, the key question is whether the South Australian component, coming from an excellent vintage, can make up for the more challenging vintage conditions in the Rhône Valley.

Though Penfolds has a history of experimental projects in California, the logistical challenges of crafting a wine like La Chapelle Grange are remarkable. After regular maturation in 20% new French oak, a temperature-controlled tank of Hermitage La Chapelle was flown to Australia for blending with the 2021 Grange and bottling, as French wine law would have prohibited the process in reverse. Prior to bottling, the final blend was matured for a few months in a mix of second-use French and American oak, similar to the initial maturation. The components were not from specific parcels but simply a 50/50 blend of the final La Chapelle and Grange, the proportions of which were decided after extensive trials. In 2021, La Chapelle was mainly from the western granitic side of the appellation with the largest portion coming from Le Méal, while Grange is a blend of Barossa, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley Shiraz with 6% Cabernet Sauvignon (making up 3% of the final La Chapelle Grange).

Perhaps the greatest surprise is how the two original wines, even with their distinct differences in terroir and winemaking, seamlessly intertwine into a singular wine with neither Rhône nor Australian influences dominating. While the marriage of these two iconic wines works in the glass, whether both brands ultimately benefit from this collaboration—and, if so, whether they benefit equally—remains to be seen.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance](https://vinous.com/articles/northern-rhone-2023-the-art-of-perseverance-jan-2025), Nicolas Greinacher, January 2025

[Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk](https://vinous.com/articles/barossa-2022-run-don-t-walk-aug-2024), Angus Hughson, August 2024

[Vinous Icons 2024: Rhône Seminar - Grégory Joannes of Domaine de La Chapelle](https://vinous.com/multimedia/vinous-icons-2024-rhone-seminar-gregory-joannes-of-domaine-de-la-chapelle?term=rhone%20seminar%20la%20chapelle), May 2024

[Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône](https://vinous.com/articles/never-a-dull-vintage-in-the-northern-rhone-dec-2022), Josh Raynolds, December 2023

[Penfolds Collection 2023](https://vinous.com/articles/penfolds-collection-2023-jul-2023), Angus Hughson, July 2023

[Changing Gears in Barossa](https://vinous.com/articles/changing-gears-in-barossa-jun-2023), Angus Hughson, June 2023



Cellar Favorite: Breaking the Rules – La Chapelle Grange

Cellar Favorite: Breaking the Rules – La Chapelle Grange (Feb 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 3, 2025

The **2009** and **2010 Cos d'Estournel** were among the vintages poured at the Vinous Icons Miami event in November 2024. They provide an enlightening contrast between two stylistically different vintages. The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during _en primeur_, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this vintage six years ago. It remains decadent and ostentatious on the nose, rich and almost over-generous with crème de cassis and iodine scents. It comes across more Napa than Bordeaux, and contentiously, perhaps that was the intention? Likewise, the palate is decked out with lush and slightly overripe black fruit, relatively low acidity and plenty of weight but not much in the way of finesse. Admittedly, I don't find the wine unenjoyable, and my score should reflect that. You have to admire its hedonism, and if that’s your bag, you’ll love it. But the 2009 harks back to a period when even some of the Médoc’s grandest châteaux seemed to follow a recipe, when more was always more. **91** /Drink 2025-2040

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738596613183-Untitled+design+%285%29.jpg)

The **2010 Cos d'Estournel** , which winemaker Dominique Arangoïts poured from magnum, is cut from a different cloth to the previous vintage. This is much fresher on the nose and crucially displays more _typicité_, yet it delivers just as much punch as the 2009. Black fruit commingles with melted tar and smoke. A sprig of wild mint surfaces with continued aeration. The palate possesses immense gravitas and dimension, analogous to a magnificent suspension bridge. It is less ostentatious than the 2009, with firmer grip and greater control and sapidity on the finish. Whilst I can understand some might prefer the 2009, the 2010 Cos d'Estournel is just more...Cos d'Estournel, though be warned, it would still benefit from a couple more years in bottle. Magnificent. **97** /Drink 2027-2055

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2019 

### Domaine Dureuil-Janthial 

### Rully En Guesnes Wadana

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 27, 2025

I suspect that nearly all wines from the Rully appellation are consumed in their youth. The **2019 Rully En Guesnes Wadana** proves that not all Rullys are made equal, certainly not with respect to winemaker Vincent Dureuil-Janthial. This particular cuvée comes from a section of his parcel in En Guesnes whose vines were planted in 1955. The bunches were destemmed by hand, leaving pedicels intact, and the wine was matured entirely in new oak. I brought it along to a lunch with far grander and more expensive Burgundy bottles, and it more than held its own in esteemed company.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737652408394-Vinous_rully+wadana.JPG)

Showing minor aging on the rim, the 2019 is deeper than many Rully wines. The bouquet is plush and generous due to the vintage and lack of stems, maraschino cherry commingling with mulberry and light marmalade scents that “hug” the senses. The palate is beautifully balanced and built around a core of red fruit—raspberry, wild strawberry and touches of cassis. It is endowed with wonderful purity, while the velvety finish leaves you hankering for more. The Wadana is perhaps an incongruous part of Dureuil-Janthial’s portfolio, predesigned with a more modern sheen, ergo, some might prefer the regular bottling or other cuvées. But I adored this. Give it another two or three years in bottle. It will continue to mature with panache over many years. **93** /Drink 2026-2045.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2019 Domaine Dureuil-Janthial Rully En Guesnes Wadana

Cellar Favorite: 2019 Domaine Dureuil-Janthial Rully En Guesnes Wadana (Jan 2025)

### Château Latour: 2025 New Releases

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 21, 2025

This year’s new releases from Château Latour are especially strong as they span three important vintages, each of which has something to offer. The 2020 Pauillac is all charm, the 2019 Forts de Latour is a potent, backward wine, and the 2016 Latour Grand Vin is indeed grand. I tasted the wines with Estate Director Hélène Genin during a visit to the château in December 2024.

The 2020 Pauillac is superb. The aromatics alone are compelling. Lavender, sage, menthol, black pepper and licorice all jump from the glass. This just screams with Cabernet character. Dark, vibrant and super-expressive, the 2020 is an absolute delight. Its vibrancy and delineation are both admirable. What a gorgeous, gorgeous wine this is.

The 2019 Forts de Latour is a tannic, backward wine, as it has always been. Blue/purplish fruit, lavender, graphite, sage and mocha open with a bit of coaxing. Even so, the 2019 is incredibly tight at this stage. Despite its imminent release, I would not dream of touching a bottle any time soon. Rain just before harvest in this warm vintage helped keep things in check and resulted in fairly generous yields of 45 hectoliters per hectare. At the same time, the mid-palate is a bit compact, while the tannins are imposing.

The 2016 Latour is magnificent. Regal and nuanced, with tons of energy, the 2016 is immediately captivating. The bouquet announces an important wine, a feeling that builds through the wine's mid-palate. There's a real feeling of exuberance in 2016, and yet the wine remains quite classic in its structural composition. Beams of supporting tannin extend the effortless, beautifully persistent finish. Unforgettable.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737474299247-CF_Jan212025_copy.jpg)

_© 2025 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 New Releases

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 New Releases (Jan 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 1997 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 13, 2025

The **1997 Cabernet Sauvignon** from Philip Togni Vineyard trumped all else at a charity dinner held at Medlar restaurant in late November. Showing modest bricking at the rim, the nose has an understated intensity. You could analogize it to a car equipped with plenty of horsepower that is content to cruise below the speed limit. Savory scents of game, touches of cigar humidor and Tuscan delicatessen infuse the red fruit, evoking thoughts of old-school California from the mid-1970s. The palate does not disappoint. It is beautifully balanced and mature, yet fresh and vital. Hints of black olive tapenade and tobacco frame the perfectly controlled gamey finish. This 28-year-old Cabernet is _à point_. Irresistible. **96** /Drink 2025-2040

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1736527661669-Vinous_togni+1997+bottle.JPG)

_© 2025 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1997 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Cellar Favorite: 1997 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Jan 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 6, 2025

What a pleasure it is to taste Raveneau’s 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru. Floral overtones lead into hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers, marzipan, mint and white pepper, all framed by a discreet touch of oak. The 2016 has come together beautifully over the last few years, seemingly gaining mid-palate weight in bottle. Even so, it remains a relatively light Valmur for Raveneau, a wine built more on aromatics and grace rather than textural intensity. At eight years of age, I admire its freshness and the sublime elegance with which it has entered the early part of its first plateau of maturity. I don’t see the 2016 improving materially from here, but it also has enough vibrancy to drink well for at least another handful of years. **94/** 2024-2029

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1736176817751-CF_Jan062025_copy.jpg)

_© 2025 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru

Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru (Jan 2025)

### Cellar Favorite: 2010 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | DECEMBER 30, 2024

From the moment I opened this bottle, I knew we were in for a treat. A wine of mind-blowing complexity, Rinaldi’s **2010 Barolo Brunate** is everything Barolo can be—powerful, refined, seductive, intensely aromatic, structured and so incredibly beautiful that words seem inadequate.

Great wines have so much power. Chief among them is the uncanny ability to transport us to all sorts of times and places. As I tasted the 2010, memories of so many visits with Beppe Rinaldi flooded my mind. And not just about wine. It’s the collection of meticulously restored vintage motorcycles, the Barolo corkscrew, old cellar tools and then so many topics beyond wine, his love of the opera, literature and the history of his beloved Langhe, often punctuated by a wickedly dry sense of humor and jokes that today would no doubt be considered politically incorrect. I think of all the visits where Rinaldi’s mind wandered to other subjects for what seemed like interminable spans of time before we tasted a drop of wine. Tasting with him was a cultural experience first and foremost.

Today, Rinaldi’s daughters, Marta and Carlotta, make gorgeous wines. But they are their wines. The 2010 Barolo Brunate is Beppe Rinaldi’s wine. It opens with soaring notes of rose petal, iron, coffee, mint, white pepper, melted road tar, spice and orange peel. Youthfully tannic and structured, the 2010 has softened a bit since its very early days, but it remains quite young. The obvious question is: Is it ready? Yes and no. Readers who have a bottle or two may want to wait another five years or so. Those fortunate enough to own a little more may want to dip into their stash. One thing is certain: Beppe Rinaldi’s 2010 Barolo is an absolute masterpiece, a testament to a brilliant career. There are no more Barolos like this. Today’s wines are different. Not better or worse, just different. **99** /2025-2045

_© 2024 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2010 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate

Cellar Favorite: 2010 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate (Dec 2024)

### Cellar Favorite: 1988 

### Domaine Pierre Morey 

### Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 23, 2024  
I have always loved the wines from Pierre Morey before he joined as winemaker at Domaine Leflaive in the very year the **1988 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru** was made. I had not encountered a bottle for several years until one was poured for lunch following a horizontal of 1978 Burgundy. It displayed the yellow fruit as it had done before, perhaps slightly less mineral-driven on the nose, fleeting glimpses of honeysuckle mixed with butterscotch indicating its maturity. The palate has a wonderful waxy texture, a twist of sour lemon lending tension with a harmonious and very persistent finish. Well-kept bottles will continue to give pleasure for another decade. **95** /2025-2035  
  
_© 2024 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Domaine Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Domaine Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Dec 2024)

### Vintage Madeira: 1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira

Continuing last week’s article on [Vintage Ports from Raby Castle](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-vintage-port-in-excelsis-1924-1950-dec-2024), I now move my attention to two exceptional Madeira wines poured at the same lunch.

The **1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira** has a fascinating backstory. Braheem Kassab was a Syrian embroidery merchant who arrived on Madeira Island in 1916 and established his business there two years later. In 1931, the local Reid-Castron Bank was experiencing financial difficulties due to the Great Depression. Kassab agreed to lend money to the institution. Part of the loan’s security was a cache of 900 bottles that were stored by the Madeira Wine Association. Two years later, when the bank could not meet its financial obligations, Kassab called on his collateral and took ownership of the bottles, which were supplemented by further acquisitions from William Reid and Father Vale. Braheem himself was a teetotaler, so he poured his stock to guests visiting his abode, Quinta Vinsano, located between Funchal and Câmara de Lobos. In the 1970s, bottles began to be auctioned off, so despite the wines’ antiquity, there are still bottles “floating about,” so to speak. This bottle is light amber in color. It is supremely elegant on the nose with touches of peat and sea spray, not complex per se, yet delineated with a slight maltiness emerging with time. The palate is well balanced and quite saline, with hints of aniseed and desiccated orange peel. There is an openness to this 216-year-old wine and an edgy, hazelnut-tinged finish. Outstanding. **95**

Another notable Madeira, the **1900 JBF Verdelho Madeira** came from demi-john. The initials stand for its owner, Jose B. Fernandez, whose house was once surrounded by vines. This is quite spirituous, with some volatile acidity on the nose and touches of dark berry fruit. Maybe this example is a little faded by time. The palate is altogether another matter—fresh, lively and citrus-like, with Satsuma, raisin and _pain d’épices_. It's very long on the finish, though perhaps it just misses some finesse. **93**

### ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1734362389761-CF_Dec162024_2.jpg)  

I will add two more Madeira of notable antiquity, this one not from Raby Castle but opened at a private dinner in Beaune in October 2024. The **1878 Christopher’s Bual Very Fine Madeira** has a delectable bouquet with grilled walnut, humidor and conspicuous VA, although that does not detract from its aromatic pleasure. This is not the most complex 19th-century Bual that I have encountered, though there remains plenty of vigor on the palate and a slightly _rancio_ finish. A touch of dried orange peel and _pain d’épices_ lingers on the aftertaste. **92**

The **1860 Cossart Gordon Sercial Solera Madeira** poured in Washington DC last May was bottled by Evans Marshall & CO. This comes across like a mature tawny on the nose, with scents of grilled walnut, smoke and a whiff of furniture wax mixed with rosewater. The palate has lovely balance and edgy acidity, showing orange rind, allspice, nutmeg and a bit of VA. The 1860 is not the most complex Sercial, but it continues to give pleasure. **90**



Cellar Favorite: 1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira

Cellar Favorite: 1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira (Dec 2024)

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Northern Mendoza: Velvet Comes Back into Fashion

Northern Mendoza: Velvet Comes Back into Fashion (Apr 2025)

### Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 23, 2025

I love the smell of ‘78 Burgundy in the morning. Actually, morning, noon or night. Any time is good for me.

I take a deep breath. Fill my lungs. Someone hands me a crib sheet, and I examine this morning’s order of play and…Jesus, Mary and Joseph…

“Have you seen this list of fermented grape juice?” I quietly ask a fellow attendee. Is someone playing a joke? My eyes bulge like a cartoon character as I look down the veritable who’s who of the Côte d’Or and then at the long table where those same wines are lined up in two parallel rows.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745416540387-bottles+line-up_Vinous.JPG)

Rousseau Chambertin…check.

DRC…check. Twice.

Clos des Ducs, de Vogüé Musigny, Roumier Bonnes-Mares, La Romanée, the Ruchottes from Mugneret-Gibourg, Dujac and…OMG…is that real? Cros-Parantoux from Henri Jayer. That’s a holy grail. Thinking about it, it’s probably more expensive than the actual Holy Grail. Bottles sell for north of £20,000 these days. On the other hand, drinking Jayer does not guarantee eternal youth, just eternal bragging rights.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745416580970-people+tasting_Vinous.JPG)

_This informal and friendly tasting took place at the late Becky Wasserman's home in Bouillard, France._

Merchants lauded the 1978s upon release, perhaps sprinkling on an extra teaspoon of hyperbole since they had endured a disappointing decade. The 1978 growing season was salvaged by warm, dry weather from August through to harvest, which did not commence until October 6 in the Côte de Beaune and three days later in the Côte de Nuits. It was a small crop due to uneven flowering that dragged on for over a fortnight. Consequently, many domaines’ yields were between 25 and 30 hectoliters per hectare, predicating a fleet of ripe, tannic, robust reds built for long-term aging. The 1978 reds shaded the whites, which were marked by underripe flavours.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745416622102-bottles+line-up2_Vinous.JPG)

Much of this treasure trove had been donated by a renowned collector/oenophile whose altruism knows no bounds. The venue is in picturesque Bouilland, France, in the home of the late Becky Wasserman and her husband, Russell Hone, who holds court in the adjacent kitchen. (It is the same room where Jay McInerney conducted his [Mugnier vertical](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-j-f-mugnier-musigny-retrospective-1993-2016-feb-2025) around the same time.) This is a casual tasting with no formalities, no set kick-off time. Some people mill around chatting to old friends. There is no predesignated order to taste. Everyone knows everyone, as is often the case in Burgundy. I set up my iPad on a spare sideboard, take a glass and commence the tasting of a lifetime.

Except, it isn’t.

This is one of those occasions when Lady Luck has buggered off, a tasting undermined by the banal fact that 1978 was almost half a century ago. Factor in that viticultural practices at the time could be less fastidious than desirable, and the mantra for many was _quantity over quality_ (I was intrigued to read in fellow attendees Allen Meadows’ and Doug Barzelay’s indispensable “Burgundy Vintages” tome that Charles Rousseau admitted his ‘78s fell short of their potential). Blend in terrible luck with corked bottles, such as the Roumier’s Bonnes-Mares (ouch) and Engel’s Clos-Vougoet (double ouch), plus three or four that were just out of condition, and all this conspired to capsize this once-in-a-lifetime horizontal to the point where halfway through, I found myself desperately seeking positives. It’s just one of those things. My job is to convey reality, not what I would have _wished_ to write, hence the lowly scores for bottles where you might anticipate greatness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745416716933-dujac+eche_Vinous.jpg)

Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand, none more so than a stunning **1978 Echézeaux** from **Domaine Dujac**. Jacques Seysses produced some heavenly wines in that decade. Nothing else here matches its vivacity, intensity and complexity. Tensile and poised, the **1978 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or** from **Domaine Pousse d’Or** is a testament to the late great winemaker Gérard Potel. Both **Musignys** from **Domaine Drouhin** and **Domaine Georges Comte de Vogüé** put in solid performances, the latter perhaps the last great vintage before the domaine went off the boil through the eighties. The tasting serves as a pertinent reminder that established names could produce the goods, with both the **1978 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze** from **Faiveley** and a magnum of **1978 Corton-Grancey** from **Louis Latour** passing muster. The two 1978s from **Domaine de la Romanée-Conti** show very well, not least the sublime **1978**  **La Tâche** , clearly more complex than the **Romanée-Saint-Vivant.**

The three whites show well. You would expect that from **Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne** and **Domaine des Comtes Lafon’s Meursault Les Perrières** (made by René Lafon, his son Dominique having just enrolled at the _Lycée Viticole)_. But kudos also to the **Meursault Perrières** from **Robert Ampeau** , which is definitely not embarrassed in this lineup.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745416744239-jayer+cros_Vinous.jpg)

What about the fabled **1978 Vosne-Romanée Cros-Parantoux** , the maiden vintage? Henri Jayer had hitherto blended fruit from the vineyard into his Vosne-Romanée Village. The 1.01-hectare vineyard was purportedly once the site of a quarry and brushland during the thirties, apart from one enterprising factotum at Camuzet who planted it with artichokes. Jayer, working as a _métayeur_ for Domaine Camuzet, acquired his first plot in Cros Parantoux in 1951. He famously had to dynamite the largest immovable boulders. Jayer was plagued by obstinate artichoke roots, the vegetable presumably miffed at being usurped after the first vines were planted in 1953. Unusually, the INAO granted Premier Cru status almost immediately. Compare that with the aeons it has taken the likes of Marsannay and Pouilly-Fuissé to achieve the same. Jayer continued to expand his holdings in Cros Parantoux, the last acquisition in 1970, so that he amassed 0.715 hectares in total. Jayer’s tenets included low yields and maturation entirely in new oak barrels.

Sure, the 1978 Cros-Parantoux is a lovely mature Pinot Noir, perhaps a little more youthful than expected, certainly not disguising the imprimatur of the oak regime. However, I tell it how it is. There’s nothing faulty about the Jayer bottle, but it doesn’t exactly set off fireworks. I wager that it took a few years for the vineyard to achieve the greatness experienced first-hand in the late eighties/early nineties. In this tasting, the Echézeaux from Dujac is superior.

After the tasting, a quick bite to eat, a chat with Russell Hone, then a drive to Saint-Aubin to see Olivier Lamy. It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal. It is a shame that a disproportionately large percentage of bottles did not show well on the day. There is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality—from experience, more so than Bordeaux. Rerun exactly the same tasting and you could end up with different results. Perchance, a more positive conclusion.

Perhaps some of these 1978s should have been blended with water poured from the Holy Grail.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

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[The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023](https://vinous.com/articles/the-lord-giveth-burgundy-2023-jan-2025), Neal Martin, January 2025

[Burgundy 2023: The State of Play](https://vinous.com/articles/burgundy-2023-the-state-of-play-jan-2025), Neal Martin, January 2025

[Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/future-memories-drc-2022-in-bottle-feb-2025), Neal Martin, February 2025

[2023 Burgundy Supplement](https://vinous.com/articles/2023-burgundy-supplement-feb-2025), Antonio Galloni, February 2025

[Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-j-f-mugnier-musigny-retrospective-1993-2016-feb-2025), Jay McInerney, February 2025

[Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019](https://vinous.com/articles/archive-away-mature-burgundies-1919-2019-jun-2024), Neal Martin, June 2024

[A Century of...Fours](https://vinous.com/articles/a-century-of-fours-jun-2024), Neal Martin, June 2024



Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective

Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective (Apr 2025)

### McLaren Vale: Pushing the Envelope of Refinement

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | APRIL 22, 2025

There are few better places in Australia to discover cutting-edge wines than McLaren Vale. Formerly a key home for large-scale commercial winemaking, McLaren Vale has transformed into a base for artisanal, terroir-driven winemakers with an increasing focus on single-vineyard wines of distinction. The 2022 vintage in particular offers insights into an exciting future.

It has been two years since my last extended trip to McLaren Vale. Thanks to December timing, winemakers had broad smiles on their faces and a spring in their step, with dry, warm, clement weather a very promising early sign for the 2025 vintage. This comes as a welcome relief from the relative challenges of recent years.

As a quick refresher, McLaren Vale is an incredibly historic Australian wine region, located only an hour’s drive south of Adelaide and situated between the Southern Ocean and the foothills of the Mount Lofty Ranges. McLaren Vale’s proximity to Adelaide led to it being one of the first South Australian wine regions planted, beginning in the late 1830s. The region has remained a winemaking centre for nearly two hundred years. The first vintage of Penfolds Grange included fruit from the northern quarter of McLaren Vale (which is now located under the expanding suburbs of Adelaide), and to this day, McLaren Vale fruit remains a key component of many highly regarded South Australian blends, including Grange.

While some other Australian regions may have greater fame, McLaren Vale has often done the heavy lifting. As such, despite some star wineries, it has not frequently received the kudos and recognition it has been due, nor have its various unofficial sub-regions been adequately covered. For the larger producers that used to rule, sub-regionality was also an unnecessary distraction that drew attention away from their brands. That may have been sound reasoning at the time, but today, in a world where many consumers are increasingly interested in the minute details of their favourite wines and regions, an increasing focus on sub-regionality can only help to tell this region’s story. Those large, generic brands have now almost disappeared, leaving behind a vacuum and an opportunity that the best local vignerons have embraced.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745330589109-McLaren+Vale+1.jpg)

_The vineyards of Blewitt Springs._

**The Rise of the Artisans**

There is something genuinely exciting happening in pockets of McLaren Vale, and that is the growing band of small artisanal winemakers and winemaking. In the past, larger wineries would hoover up much of the available fruit, blending individual components away. While the prices growers could command for their fruit could be good, these large operations did not exactly encourage growers to maximise quality, in particular through yield and canopy management. The exit of these wineries from the region, while initially painful, left some prized vineyards without a home for their fruit. It also offered enterprising winemakers an opportunity to seize an undervalued resource, either working with growers or purchasing vineyards outright. Take the low-yielding Smart Vineyard, for example, which has become one of the most highly sought-after fruit sources in McLaren Vale. Back in the 1990s, the fruit was sold relatively cheaply and used to make a commercial Rosé, while now, some of the wines off this site fetch close to $100 a bottle and are well worth it.

Visiting the region and tasting the local wines, it has become increasingly clear that there are two dominant schools of thought with regard to winemaking. First, there are the traditionalists focused on broad regional expressions and crafting dependable wines. For these producers, single vineyards and nuanced winemaking are less important, thereby continuing the theme of McLaren Vale offering generous, open-knit wines with broad market appeal. As with any generic approach, the finer details are lost in a quest to create wines that tick all the boxes for a mass market, even at a premium price point. If it was not already obvious, McLaren Vale does “upfront appeal” very well, which is why the region was so popular as a source of blending material for wines from other regions in South Australia.

At the other end of the spectrum are the artisans and the dreamers, generally tied to a clutch of small, hand-tended vineyards, with viticulture and winemaking overseen by small teams. Production size for these entities is naturally limited by the number of hours in the day and the number of vineyards that can be managed at the requisite high level of quality. That micro-management in the vineyard can also help to cope with more challenging vintage conditions. There are plenty of regions that can turn out simple, generous, dependable red wines, so this artisanal movement, with its focus on finely nuanced wines, has the potential to be a key part of McLaren Vale’s future. Importantly, large-scale production and artisanal methods are not mutually exclusive. Some larger wineries are playing well in this space thanks to investment and focus on improving the quality of their offerings. Paradoxically, while it is generally easy to make good wine in McLaren Vale, this is a region that does require an uncommonly focused approach to vineyard choice, management and winemaking in order to showcase the finest terroirs.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745330608412-Paralian_Vinous.jpg)

_Skye Salter and Charlie Seppelt in the Paralian Springs Hill Vineyard._

Husband-and-wife team Charlie Seppelt and Skye Salter, of Paralian Wines, embody the artisanal mindset. While working as winemakers at some larger wineries, the couple launched Paralian as a side project, hand-selecting parcels of fruit for a small range of wines. In mid-2024, Seppelt and Salter bit the bullet and purchased the Springs Hill Vineyard, from which they had been sourcing fruit since 2018. Springs Hill sits in northern McLaren Vale, close to a number of iconic vineyards. What is most attractive about the Paralian project is the wine style they are pursuing—mid-weight, cerebral and energetic wines with purity and subtlety, where the vineyard does the talking. These are wines that are the polar opposite of old-fashioned McLaren Vale. Modern interpretations of McLaren Vale Grenache garner much attention, but Paralian puts their own stamp on a number of grape varieties, particularly a charming and understated Cabernet Sauvignon. It is early days, but Paralian’s trajectory is clear. Others, such as Rob Mack of Aphelion Wine Co, Toby and Emmanuelle Bekkers of Bekkers, Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood’s Ministry of Clouds, and MMAD Vineyard, are moving in a similar direction. These producers work a small number of single-vineyard, generally old-vine plots with a singular vision, avoiding the trap of trying to be all things to all people. They are grape farmers more than anything else, and the results are plain to see. Luckily, there is a significant base of vineyards here that have the potential to produce fine and ageworthy wines.

**The Smart Vineyard**

As outlined above, the Smart Vineyard is a highly regarded and in-demand source of old-bush-vine Grenache fruit, which for many years was largely ignored and thrown into cheaper blends. The Smart family has played an important role in the region’s history, having also planted Yangarra’s High Sands Vineyard. The Smart Vineyard is located in Clarendon, situated on an uneven, south-facing, steep plot at an elevation of 230 meters on red clay/loam soils with ironstone. Across the road from the Hickinbotham Vineyard, the first block of the Smart Vineyard was planted in 1922, with subsequent blocks added in the 1950s, 1971 and 1999. The site first came to prominence with Clarendon Hills’ wines, but in more recent times, the Smart Vineyard has attracted a number of Grenache specialists, such as S.C. Pannell and Thistledown. The wild, windswept vineyard remains dry-farmed to this day.

The vineyard was originally part of a general farm that raised sheep and grew apples, apricots and currants. Management is distinctly low-intervention, without any bunch-thinning. “These old vines know what they are doing. I just let them do their own thing,” according to third-generation grapegrower Wayne Smart, who farms the site. Vignerons have their pick of fruit and take what best suits their winemaking, with older, more established customers having the right of way. As a part of my recent tastings, I asked key producers to submit multiple vintages of their wines from the Smart Vineyard stretching back to 2010. This yielded notable results. Firstly, Grenache off this site has evolved over the years, as the wines move from densely flavoured styles into more ethereal and vibrant expressions. The best wines combine an impressive volume of flavour with finesse and subtlety, the key to which is the combination of old vines and the site’s cooler microclimate. It’s clear that the rising stocks of McLaren Vale Grenache are on a solid base, as illustrated by the ageability of these wines, which will undoubtedly improve even more as winemakers hone their styles.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745330685248-Maslin+Sand_Vinous.jpg)

_North-Maslin-Sand-based soils with ironstone pebble and clays, formed between two and 40 million years ago._

**Rethinking Sub-Regionality**

A curious quirk of the Australian wine industry is an almost complete lack of sub-regions. There are certainly some, with Eden Valley in the Barossa and various areas of Great Southern in Western Australia identified as unique terroirs that are worth separating from their surroundings. From the outside, it must appear that there is a lack of differentiation worth describing and accounting for. While true for some regions, it is not so for many others. The Barossa Valley, Margaret River, Tasmania, Yarra Valley and McLaren Vale all have significant variation within their boundaries and potential for sub-regions to be identified. However, there is some recent history that explains why there is not a greater push to promote sub-regionality. Around the turn of the 21st century, the boundaries of Coonawarra were redrawn, which led to considerable acrimony among locals and long-running legal appeals against the boundary changes. The general fallout has, unfortunately, made the introduction of sub-regions challenging. This is a shame, as McLaren Vale is far from a simple terroir. If anything, it is one of the country's most diverse winegrowing regions, and it is only in recent years that its various personalities have begun to see adequate exploration.

McLaren Vale is already unique in that it is a warm region that also has a significant maritime influence from the Gulf St Vincent, which helps retain vibrancy in the wines. The sizable terroir differences across the region’s 7,400 hectares of vineyard are driven by altitude, soil profile, and proximity to the cooling winds that are drawn off the Mount Lofty Ranges. Up to 19 distinctive areas have been identified, although these can be grouped together into a handful of key zones. The wines that come from **McLaren Flat** are most closely aligned with what most people think of as classic McLaren Vale. Here, the lower altitude and alluvial soils combine to yield bold, full-flavoured wines with density and richness. This directly contrasts with the wines from **Clarendon** , which shares a border with the Adelaide Hills. The combination of undulating vineyards with altitudes ranging from 150 to 300 meters, various microclimates depending on aspects, and cooling winds provides a very different McLaren Vale expression and presents opportunities for some less popular grape varieties to shine. Terrain here is complex, ranging from red and brown loamy soils to sandy and stony outcrops with occasional ironstone. To the southeast is the highly sought-after area of **Blewitt Springs** , where there is a more even climate and viticultural landscape, at an altitude of 150 to 220 meters. Again, with a climate tempered by cooling breezes off the Mount Lofty Ranges, Blewitt Springs’ unique calling card is its deep sandy soils, which add a marked fragrance and structure to the wines and have a particular resonance with Grenache. The historic area of **Seaview** has some of the oldest vines in McLaren Vale and is particularly well suited to powerful yet nuanced Shiraz, while the rocky outcrops of the **Willunga Foothills** give rise to more unctuous and densely packed styles. All of this diversity exists in an area close to the size of Chianti Classico, a region with well-understood sub-regional variation. While politically challenging, there is a strong argument for McLaren Vale to better delineate and promote its sub-regional jewels, which could lead to an increase in global recognition. There has, thankfully, already been a move in this direction that will hopefully bear fruit sooner rather than later.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745330712872-McLaren+Vale+2.jpg)

_Toby and Emanuelle Bekkers._

**A Note on Grape Varieties**

To many, the varietal diversity and creative flair of McLaren Vale may come as a surprise, as this region quite literally offers a smorgasbord of grapes to choose from. Most wineries offer something outside the norm of mainstream French varieties, from Aglianico to Vermentino and beyond with seemingly little pattern. Some grapes such as Barbera, Mencia and Chenin Blanc were planted due to their ability to retain acidity in warm climates, while others such as Nero d’Avola and Vermentino were chosen due to their tolerance of dry conditions. There is much admirable effort being put into experimentation with these grape varieties, but so far, there are few remarkable examples with the strength of typicity found in the leading wines from these varieties’ home regions. That is not to say experimentation is unwelcome or should be discontinued as there are some exceptional and delicious wines already made from the likes of Chenin Blanc, Fiano, Touriga Nacional, Roussanne and Sangiovese, while others like Grenache Blanc show potential. These experiments require wineries to fully commit to the correct choice of site, microclimate and clone in combination with sensitive winemaking in tune with the individual needs of each variety.

On the other hand, the success of Shiraz in my recent tastings, particularly from 2022, comes as no surprise, and it is impressive to see that McLaren Vale continues to refine its style. There are still decadent and rich wines to be found, but also an increasing number of detailed, nuanced expressions of the variety. These are the wines that will increasingly define the region. Across the board, winemakers—particularly for Shiraz and Grenache—are taking a less formulaic, more bespoke approach, with increased use of large-format oak for maturation, more application of concrete and amphora, the inclusion of whole-bunch fruit, and also dialing back ripeness. This is helping the region’s underlying terroir to shine and for local Shiraz to put its best foot forward. This report also sees increasing confidence and self-assuredness in Grenache and showcases the increasing knowledge of viticulturists and winemakers as to how to maximise quality in the finest vineyards. McLaren Vale has 55 hectares of Grenache vines over 50 years old, and these mature vines no doubt play their part in many of the finest wines. Grenache from the exceptional 2022 vintage had the highest average score in this report, which reflects overall quality as well as the fact that the variety is a leading focus for some of the top winemakers in the region. Another bright spot is the strong varietal typicity evident in a small number of Cabernet Sauvignons tasted here. The combination of a climate that is a touch warmer than Napa Valley and the region’s maritime influences sets up quite a bit of potential for Cabernet in McLaren Vale. While it has forever been the bridesmaid to Shiraz in the region, perhaps this also needs a rethink, particularly in relation to Cabernet’s global popularity.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745330734808-McLaren+Vale+3.jpg)

_Grenache vines in the San Remo Vineyard, planted in the 1950s at the top of the Onkaparinga Gorge._

**Recent Vintages**

Vintage 2023 was a challenge in McLaren Vale, as it was across much of Eastern Australia, with the La Niña at its peak bringing a cool and wet season and yields down approximately 24% from 2022. Significant spring rainfall under cool conditions led to a slow start for the season, with poor fruit-set and some disease pressure. After a warm summer without heat spikes, significant rainfall came as a welcome relief, although late-season ripening occurred under cool and wet conditions. Overall, the 2023s are delicately flavoured with significant acidity, and they generally lack long cellaring potential. However, some producers were able to somewhat buck the trend with judicious vineyard management.

Two thousand twenty-two was an outstanding vintage in McLaren Vale and the best in recent memory, with a more temperate year helping producers to craft stylish and composed wines. The best 2022s are truly exceptional. The strong 2021 vintage and good winter rainfall set the vines up well. However, unsettled, cold and wet weather at flowering led to a reduced berry-set, particularly in comparison to 2021. But the weather turned, and the rest of the season was uneventful. Temperate conditions without heat spikes or significant rainfall made for a dry, even vintage overall. Some vineyards were picked two weeks later than usual. All grape varieties benefited from extended ripening in cool conditions, providing the resulting wines with complexity, focus and energising acidity. The slight reduction in yields from the challenging weather at flowering was likely key for the fruit to reach optimal ripeness in a season that was cooler than average, and in turn responsible for the high quality and finesse of the vintage.

I discussed the 2021 in my [last report](https://vinous.com/articles/the-many-faces-of-mclaren-vale-feb-2023). With the recent release of more premium labels from this vintage, it remains clear that 2021 is an excellent, although not outstanding, year. The wines are delicious yet a little muted in comparison to 2022.

_I tasted the wines for this report in McLaren Vale in December 2024, with follow-up tastings at my office in Sydney._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Behind the Red Curtain: Penfolds Special Bins from the Vault](https://vinous.com/articles/behind-the-red-curtain-penfolds-special-bins-from-the-vault-mar-2025), Angus Hughson, March 2025

[Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk](https://vinous.com/articles/barossa-2022-run-don-t-walk-aug-2024), Angus Hughson, August 2024

[Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021](https://vinous.com/articles/ironing-out-the-kinks-jim-barry-the-armagh-1985-2021-jun-2024), Angus Hughson, June 2024

[The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia](https://vinous.com/articles/the-yin-and-the-yang-of-western-australia-may-2024), Angus Hughson, May 2024

[Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic](https://vinous.com/articles/victoria-cutting-edge-meets-classic-mar-2024), Angus Hughson, March 2024

[Changing Gears in Barossa](https://vinous.com/articles/changing-gears-in-barossa-jun-2023), Angus Hughson, June 2023



McLaren Vale: Pushing the Envelope of Refinement

McLaren Vale: Pushing the Envelope of Refinement (Apr 2025)

Buy Some, Try Some: Beaujolais 2022-2024

Buy Some, Try Some: Beaujolais 2022-2024 (Apr 2025)

### Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 16, 2025

“_One two three four five, six seven eight nine ten, eleven twelve.”_

These lyrics will be familiar to kids on both sides of the Atlantic who sat in front of the gogglebox to watch “Sesame Street.” Having never travelled to the United States, this seminal kids’ educational program, first aired in 1969 and going strong today, was my peephole into a fantastical land where I might go to the supermarket and meet the Six Million Dollar Man, Red Hand Gang or Eric and Ernie. The segment that is indelibly imprinted upon my malleable brain, both visually and audibly, is the “[Pinball Number Count](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOaZbaPzdsk)” that taught viewers numbers one to twelve. The surreal animated sequence of a shiny pinball ricocheting around the machine heightened anticipation until that episode’s number was revealed. I bet you never knew that the vocals for the show’s stone-cold killer, funky, jazz-tinged soundtrack were performed by the legendary Pointer Sisters long before “Jump” or “I’m So Excited.”

When we next congregate at Château de Beaune for a numerically themed dinner of Bouchard Père’s wines, I will recommend playing the “Pinball Number Count” theme. We could all join in and shout out the number. Last year, we learned about the number two courtesy of a 1952 Corton-Charlemagne, an 1892 Beaune and a dozen or so others. This year, the theme was, you guessed it, the magic number _three_.

It was the same format. The two Frédérics, which sounds like a pair of tenors rather than Groupe Artémis CEO Frédéric Engerer and head winemaker Frédéric Weber, raided Bouchard Père’s treasure trove of back vintages that accreted over decades. All bottles were served blind and, as it turned out, not necessarily from Bouchard Père, since, unbeknownst to guests, Engerer smuggled in bottles from stablemates Domaine d’Eugénie and Clos de Tart. This is not a showcase for Bouchard Père, no greatest hits compilation. There is a higher cause: to intermix the greats with less trodden vineyards and, in particular, no-go vintages. An evening of contrast and consanguinity. This tasting is akin to a large family gathering, with long-lost relatives convening and looking each other up and down, from adolescents to great-grandparents, plus the odd grumpy uncle.

The evening was almost over before it began. Arriving later than other guests after a busy day at the proverbial “office,” I found the entry door locked. Standing on tiptoe, I could see dinner guests milling about the _orangerie_ with pre-prandial glasses of Champagne, but the doorbell made no sound. Waving my arms like a lunatic in the dark street was in vain. I tried several other doors, all locked. In the end, I spotted a friend and sent an emergency text. Fortunately, his mobile was switched on.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744647659311-bouchard+bottles+full+line+up_Vinous.JPG)

This is an article where the tasting notes speak for themselves, but a couple of observations:

Firstly, you can make great wine from even the most disparaged growing season. I recently read Antonio Galloni’s [Barolo 2021 report](https://vinous.com/articles/2021-barolo-changing-times-changing-wines-jan-2025), where he wrote about the danger of winemakers relying too much on data and not enough on actually tasting the wines. I concur. Fine wine is not a standardized product dictated by the growing season or winemaking technique. To use a sporting analogy, knowledge of such background information sets the bar and governs how high or low we predict a wine will perform. Yet we know all too well that the high jumper might fluff their run-up and crash into the bar or simply sail over it with ease. What determines the outcome of any wine depends on a multitude of factors whose inter-relationships remain partially known and do not necessarily comport to statistics or scientific analyses.

A cursory glance at meteorological data pertaining to a vintage like 1963 implies that no wine from the mid-1960s would be worth drinking, let alone after six decades. Yet up trotted the **1963 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot** and it was sublime. This is a vintage when flowering did not finish until the end of July, summer was a damp squib, and then, despite an Indian summer, there was insufficient warmth to fully ripen what was a large crop. Some growers did not finish picking until November that year. The **1963 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières** did not quite pass muster, but it was certainly no write-off. That is the magic, the enigma, the unpredictability of wine, and long may that continue. Also, I must mention the **1973 Montrachet Grand Cru** , another supposedly poor season due to excessively high yields. As pointed out at dinner, the whites that year might have lacked ambition but have cruised along without falling apart.

Secondly, whatever Bouchard Père was doing in Corton-Charlemagne in the 1950s, they were doing it right. Last year, the 1952 Corton-Charlemagne snatched wine of the night, and this year, the **1953 Corton-Charlemagne** was cut from a similar cloth, so complex and mineral-driven, undimmed by the passing years. The head winemaker at that time was Joseph Bouchard, father of Christophe Bouchard, who was born in 1922 and tragically died in an accident in 1965. Weber later told me that Joseph Bouchard was extremely respected. The wines made during his tenure are a testament to a talent cut short.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744647685120-bouchard+1923+bottles_Vinous.JPG)

Perhaps one takeaway from the wines is that beauty can be found irrespective of age. I found the first and youngest wine, the **2013 Chevalier-Montrachet** , delectable by dint of its elegance and refinement. Similarly, the oldest wine (after they could find nothing suitable from the 19th century), the **1923 Beaune Clos de la Mousse,** was astonishing for its ineffable complexity, grace and purity. It was a pertinent reminder of how the most propitious parcels in the Beaune appellation can vie with more illustrious appellations like Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey-Chambertin. This was one of my wines of the year.

Not everything hit the spot, ineluctable when chained to numerical vintages. The **1983 Montrachet** was compromised by that year’s notoriously wet weather, though it had an intriguing petrol scent that was probably a result of botrytis in the vines. When it came to the **2003 Clos de Tart** , I was unimpressed and vocally tore it apart. Overripe and burdened by excessive cassis scents that rendered the palate one-dimensional, I found this almost sacrilegious given the _monopole_ in question, even taking into account that year’s torrid heat. This resulted in a heated cross-table debate with wine writer Michel Bettane, who argued, in his own inimitable way, that the absence of Burgundian traits is precisely what makes it special. I rejoindered that if a wine bears no trace, no semblance of what it should be, then it has forsaken its _raison d’être_? Just go buy an alternative at a fraction of the price that will give you identical sensory pleasure. Suffice it to say that some guests were shocked by my outburst. However, in the presence of such bottles and with knowledge gathered around the table, surely there should be open debate and dialectic as to what constitutes a great wine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744650138359-bouchard+three+stats_Vinous.jpg)_Frédéric Weber kindly sent me information pertaining to the vintages in question in terms of harvest date and so forth._

I will leave it there. The evening was a testament to the treasures that slumber in Bouchard Père’s cellars. It was a privilege to drink bottles of such antiquity, bottles that had gathered dust in the same bin where they were placed sometimes decades ago. It proved the majesty of great vineyards like Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet, but also that a well-made wine from more modest vineyards can deliver just as much magic. Few exercises compare to learning to count as a kid or drinking history as a grown-up. Just as these wines from Bouchard Père have outlived many of their peers, so “Sesame Street” has outlived practically every kids’ program.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023](https://vinous.com/articles/the-lord-giveth-burgundy-2023-jan-2025), Neal Martin, January 2025

[Burgundy 2023: The State of Play](https://vinous.com/articles/burgundy-2023-the-state-of-play-jan-2025), Neal Martin, January 2025

[Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/future-memories-drc-2022-in-bottle-feb-2025), Neal Martin, February 2025

[2023 Burgundy Supplement](https://vinous.com/articles/2023-burgundy-supplement-feb-2025), Antonio Galloni, February 2025

[Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-j-f-mugnier-musigny-retrospective-1993-2016-feb-2025), Jay McInerney, February 2025

[Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012](https://vinous.com/articles/oldies-but-goldies-bouchard-pere-1892-2012-apr-2024), Neal Martin, April 2024



Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013

Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013 (Apr 2025)

### English Still Wine: Much Promise, Much Afoot

BY ANNE KREBIEHL, MW | APRIL 15, 2025

Still wines, for now, play a minor part in the English wine landscape, eclipsed by the success of English sparkling wines, whose effervescent genesis I recounted in my [recent report](https://vinous.com/articles/english-sparkling-wine-effervescence-and-reserve-feb-2025). England, an island in the North Sea, with its marginal yet moderate maritime climate and southern counties straddling the latitudes of 51 and 52 degrees, seems predestined to produce brisk, fresh sparkling wines. But what about the wines that do not sparkle?

**A Checkered Past**

Judging at regional competitions about a dozen or so years ago, I remember tasting often meagre English whites, with the odd exception, made mostly from varieties like Seyval Blanc and Madeleine Angevine, alongside Germanic crossings suited to these northerly climes. Reds were few and far between. I recall a stunning Pinot Noir from Stanlake Park that was a notable exception. A Merlot-Cabernet blend grown under a polytunnel in Devon remains memorable for entirely different reasons. In those days, English still wines were of a standard that could be sold to tourists at cellar doors when “proper” wines from Europe or the New World were conveniently absent. Overpriced for what they were, English still wines could not really compete. What happened in the past decade, however, is remarkable. Climate change, increased growing expertise and the exploration of new regions (hello, Essex!) have made all the difference. Much is afoot.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744726761567-English+Still+Wine+Cover.jpg)

**Still Wine Today**

Wine GB, the British wine industry’s representative body, reports that still wine represented roughly between one-fifth and one-third of total production over the past eight years. Of this, two-thirds were white wine, with the remaining third split into varying proportions of Rosé and red (the balance tipping in favor of Rosé). In this report, however, there are more reds than Rosés.

Plantings reflect production. The top three varieties are Chardonnay with 1,228 hectares (ha), Pinot Noir with 1,141 ha and Pinot Meunier with 343 ha. This trinity is followed by 298 ha of Bacchus, 122 ha of Seyval Blanc and ever-decreasing patches of Solaris, Reichensteiner, Pinot Noir Précoce (a tricky, earlier-ripening mutation of Pinot Noir that seems to have found a natural home in England), Rondo and Pinot Gris. Pinot Blanc, Ortega, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Riesling, Huxelrebe, Müller-Thurgau, Gamay, Pinotage and others are also planted but have too little surface to show up on the stats. Depending on your point of view, this is either a hodgepodge or a hotbed of experimentation. In any case, quantities are modest. How could it be otherwise when only 3,230 of the 4,209 hectares so recently planted are bearing fruit, and only 20-35% of these are made into still wine?

**Who Makes the Wines?**

The 70+ still wines in this report represent a beautiful spectrum. Some come from wineries that specialize in sparkling wine and have branched out into still wine production, like Gusbourne, for instance, whose first still Chardonnay dates to the 2011 vintage and first still red Pinot Noir dates to 2013. There are also wineries that focus on still wines, like Oastbrook in East Sussex, Danbury Ridge and Missing Gate (the latter two in Essex, but more on that later). The fact that still wines do not require years of lees-aging, a process that requires deep pockets to survive years without cashflow from sales, allows younger, independent winemakers to have a go as micro-négociants. Chris Wilson makes wines in a tiny windmill in Cambridge under his Gutter & Stars label (the literary-minded among you will smile at the allusion). Lynsey and Sergio Verrillo at Blackbook Winery produce their wines in a winery tucked under some railway arches in Battersea, London. Regionally, the wines come from as far west as Cornwall and as far north as Norfolk.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744648283644-Liam+Idzikowski%2C+winemaker+at+Danbury++Ridge+in+his+state-of-the+art+and+artfully+lit+barrel+room._Vinous.jpg)

_Liam Idzikowski, winemaker at Danbury Ridge, in his state-of-the art and artfully lit barrel room._

**Eldorado Essex**

Thirty-eight percent of the still wines tasted in this report contain fruit grown in the eastern county of Essex, while 32% were made exclusively from Essex-grown fruit. Why Essex, of all counties, should be deemed the new Eldorado of English still wines comes as a surprise to many. After all, this county extending from the less glamorous eastern fringes of London all the way to the North Sea suffers, both deservedly and undeservedly, from a rather poor reputation. My colleague Neal Martin, an Essex boy himself, aptly and humorously sketched his home county’s image in [his portrait of Danbury Ridge](https://vinous.com/articles/the-only-way-is-essex-danbury-ridge-apr-2024). But Essex holds excellent cards when it comes to still wine: it is on the dry east coast of England—readers who love gardening may be familiar with Beth Chatto’s famous dry garden near Colchester. Not only is Essex drier than much of England, it is also sunnier and, what’s more, has clay in the soils. The best sites have rather special smectite clay with excellent shrink-swell potential. While this rings alarm bells for construction, it is brilliant for giving just enough but never too much water to vines, creating just the kind of positive stress a vine needs to channel its best energies into ripening grapes, whether the season is wet or dry. These characteristics make Essex very much still rather than sparkling wine country. It is here that US-based fine wine conglomerate Jackson Family Wines bought land to make still wines, the company’s first foray into England. One contract winemaking facility, or custom crush pad, opened in late 2024 just across the Suffolk border to cater to East Anglian growers, while another facility, in the Crouch Valley of Essex where most vineyards are, is set to open later this year. Such investment would simply not occur if there weren’t so much promise.

### The Stars

Undoubtedly, the two still wine stars are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. With a track record of excelling in cool and marginal climes the world over, these two chameleons shine in England. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are what make me excited for still English wine. Chardonnay, while sometimes made in easy, juicy, fruity styles, has all the potential to yield wines of brightness, cut and tension, which will become even more obvious with vine age. Pinot Noir, in its own inimitable way, once again vindicates the idealists, the dreamers, the optimists with its beautiful expressions of England. A lot of Pinot Noir is grown in places that are getting very warm; in England, that is not the case. Here, you can still taste its climatic marginality in cooler years like 2021 or 2023. These vintages are where Pinot Noir shows us an inherent, innate part of its nature, something that is as essential as it is visceral, as vulnerable as it is triumphant, that allows those who dare to make a red wine against all odds, imbued with poetry and fragrance. Pale perhaps, and slender, but nonetheless true. In the warmer years, Pinot Noir beguiles with its silkiness and perfume. What promise!

_I tasted the wines in this report in late 2024 in England._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[English Sparkling Wine: Effervescence and Reserve](https://vinous.com/articles/english-sparkling-wine-effervescence-and-reserve-feb-2025), Anne Krebiehl, MW, February 2025

[The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge](https://vinous.com/articles/the-only-way-is-essex-danbury-ridge-apr-2024), Neal Martin, April 2024

[Albion Gets Serious: English Sparkling Wine](https://vinous.com/articles/albion-gets-serious-english-sparkling-wine-jul-2020), Neal Martin, July 2020



English Still Wine: Much Promise, Much Afoot

English Still Wine: Much Promise, Much Afoot (Apr 2025)

### The Brutal Beauty of Sardinia: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages

BY ERIC GUIDO | APRIL 10, 2025

There are many things to love about Sardinia. It’s considered a paradise for its beaches. Sardinians live long, active, healthy lives surrounded by family, establishing the region as one of only five Blue Zones worldwide. The cuisine is rich with fresh seafood and hearty mountain fare. Not least, the wines are incredible. Sardinia's grape varieties, many of which are considered indigenous, are descendants of more familiar Spanish and French grapes, having adapted here for hundreds or even thousands of years. While global warming presents challenges, Sardinia's key varieties continue to demonstrate their resilience. Sardinia even has its own emerging winegrowing region in the island's interior that’s wowing international palates, including mine. What’s not to like?

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744294961545-Siddura%27s+Gallura+vineyards%C2%A0at+300+meters+in+sandy+granite%2C+mixing+Cannonau+with+Cabernet+Sauvignon+and+Vermentino+in+the+distant+hills_Vinous.jpg)

_Siddùra's vineyards in Gallura are planted on sandy granite at an elevation 300 meters._

The biggest problem facing Sardinian wine is a worldwide lack of awareness. Though the region is a premier location for vacationing Italians and globe-trotting summer tourists, the island’s wine scene remains a mystery to most consumers. The problem is two-fold. Most Sardinian producers are fully aware of both issues. For one, Sardinian producers lack a marketing push outside their borders. I rarely hear about official tasting events for the press or the public organized by a Sardinian trade organization, though just this year, I was surprised to receive an invitation to a formal press trip. We do not accept these offers at Vinous, but the invitation served as a positive sign that the tide may be turning for Sardinian wine. While Sardinia needs more journalists to explore its regions and communicate their merits to the public, Sardinian producers need to venture outside the area to speak on its behalf and allow consumers the opportunity to taste the wines. Lovers of ageworthy Bordeaux would find much to like in Sardinian Carignano, while fans of Châteauneuf-du-Pape would feel right at home with Sardinian Cannonau. There’s a lot of potential here.

The second problem is Sardania’s lack of enticing restaurants and hotels to attract and support wine tourism. Producers realize this is an impediment. Lia Tolaini-Banville, the new owner of the Pala winery, explained, "To enhance Sardinia's appeal as a wine destination, we must first address the lack of hospitality infrastructure. We need to transform these challenges into opportunities.” Tourism depends on access, ease of travel and the availability of comfortable accommodations. If these existed, tourists would have a better avenue to explore Sardinian wine.

### “Indigenous” and Sometimes Confusing

I genuinely love Sardinia’s unique take on grape varieties that originated from international sources. Although Phoenicians brought Cannonau and Nuragus to Sardinia around the eighth or ninth century B.C.,native Sardinians consider these varieties to be indigenous. By contrast, Spanish imports, such as Monica, Cagnulari, Vermentino and Carignano, only arrived in the 14th and 15th centuries A.D. Sardinia’s incredibly hot, dry climate is categorized as Mediterranean, but it is heavily influenced by Sirocco winds from the Sahara Desert and cold Mistral winds blowing down from the south of France. This leaves a profound imprint of terroir on every variety grown in Sardinia. Cannonau and Carignano are undoubtedly the two most important reds, but curious readers should not stop there.

Cannonau, a direct descendent of Grenache or Garnacha, can be found throughout the entire island, most often lumped into the all-encompassing Cannonau di Sardegna DOC. Unfortunately, the DOC designation does not guarantee a quality wine, nor one that communicates terroir. Buyers must be selective and purchase from the best producers with the longest track records. That said, there are some interesting developments with Cannonau that are worth checking out (more on that below). As for Carignano, the Carignano del Sulcis DOC, located in the extreme southwest of the island, delivers serious wines that mix power and structure. In many cases, the vines here are over 100 years old and ungrafted, thriving in an excessively warm environment that’s balanced by the cooling influences of the sea. Some of the best-known Carignano producers, such as Agricola Punica and Siddùra, label their wines with the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT. This is another all-encompassing Sardinian wine classification used for reds, whites and Rosati. “Isola dei Nuraghi” refers to the thousands of ancient stone towers strewn across the island, which, while romantic, does nothing to help consumers understand where the wine comes from or what to expect in the glass. Readers should also look to Santadi, Cantina Mesa, Argiolas and Angelo Rivano for some excellent examples of Carignano.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744295056691-While+Gallura+excels+for+its+distinct+saltiness%2C+Vermentino+thrives+throughout+Sardinia_Vinous.jpg)

_Vermentino thrives throughout Sardinia, especially in Gallura, where it yields wines with a distinct saltiness._

Vermentino is Sardinia's most significant white variety. While permitted throughout the island, through the (yet again) all-encompassing Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, the finest interpretations hail from the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG in the northeast. Here, the grapes thrive in poor soils of granitic rock and sand. The best examples of Sardinian Vermentino display a mix of ripe fruit with salty savoriness and develop well in the cellar over the medium term. While the DOCG yields exceptional wines, outstanding examples of Vermentino can be found across the island, such as Pala’s Stellato portfolio. Sadly, widespread planting in less suitable locations has led to an increase in overly ripe, often tropical Vermentinos that prioritze fruit over acidity and minerality.

Nuragus is another mineral-driven white variety that’s lighter in body and higher in acidity than Vermentino. Many of these wines are labeled with the Nuragus di Cagliari DOC, which covers a large swath of the south. These stimulating whites represent a significant departure from the richer, fruitier styles of most Sardinian white wines. I expect there to be more consumer excitement about Nuragus in the future.

Lastly, Vernaccia di Oristano (not to be confused with Vernaccia from the Tuscan coast, which is a completely different variety). deserves an honorable mention, despite my having only tasted two examples for this report. These incredibly long-aging wines can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best Fino or Amontillado Sherry. The wines are refined for extended periods under _flor_, often in chestnut wood barrels.

**What’s Hot, Besides the Climate?**

One of the most exciting areas in Sardinia today is the mountainous region of Barbagia. In the past, I’ve written about Barbagia as more of a curiosity, wondering why I didn’t find it referenced in any notable published wine literature or included on any wine maps. The first producer to pique my interest was Jankara. The first time I tasted Jankara’s wines in a flight of Sardinian Cannonau, I was utterly taken aback by how much they stood out. Jankara’s wines were more mineral and finessed yet deeper and bassier. How was this possible? As usual, it was terroir. Subsequently, wines from a producer known as Teularju made it to my tasting table. I was floored by their complexity and sheer gracefulness. Teularju shares stylistic similarities with Comando G (from Gredos, Spain, known for exceptional Garnachas cultivated at high elevations in granite soil). This year, Giuseppe Sedilesu’s site-transparent wines wowed me as well. The potential of Barbagia and, more specifically, the area of Mamoiada is off the charts.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744295429675-Jankara%27s+vineyards+in+the+mountainous+Barbagia+region_Vinous.jpg)

_Jankara's vineyards in the mountainous Barbagia region._

So why are we only just now hearing about them? Mamoiada, in the province of Nuoro, has a long history of viticulture, with many vineyards around the town playing host to bush vines more than 100 years old. Historically, most of these vines were used for home winemaking or sold to the regional cooperative, which closed in the 1980s. The townspeople have winemaking in their blood. Francesco Sedilesu of Teularju explains, “Today there are 250 wineries in 700 households and only 2400 inhabitants, yet all know how to make their own wine. Of these wineries, only 40 have become companies and put wine in bottles.” It was only in the last five to seven years that most of these growers became bottlers on a larger scale and started to make it into international markets.

The regions of Barbagia is located in the central mountainous area of Sardinia. Here, cooling influences from the Gennargentu massif in the south and air currents from the sea to the east generate cold winters, hot summers and sizeable temperature ranges from day to night. Barbagia’s vineyards are situated between 700 to 800 meters in elevation and planted in primarily granitic soils, with a small amount of clay and sand dispersed throughout. Cannonau dominates these vineyards, making up 95% of all plantings. The other 5% is made up of Granazza (rumored to be related to Nuragus), a white variety in which local winemakers are showing increasing interest. The reason for such a noticeable difference between Cannonau from around Mamoiada and Cannonau from the rest of Sardinia is undoubtedly terroir, and the region's winemakers have become quite convinced that it will set them apart. As a result, these producers formed the Mamojà Growers Association and mapped out subregions within the area, using valleys and exposures as boundaries and adding specific _Ghirade_ (single vineyards, much like Etna’s _Contrade_) to their labels. And here’s the kicker: the wines actually communicate their respective terroirs. The style of Cannonau from Mamoiada is pure enough and focused enough that the slightest differences in location translate into the glass. Tasted blind, these wines could stump the most well-trained palates.

One thing Mamoiada lacks is a DOC. Readers will find these wines labeled as either Cannonau di Sardegna DOC, which is useless for the purpose of site-specificity, or, more likely, Barbagia Rosso IGT. I’ll dig deeper into this emerging region in future articles, and I urge readers to keep their eyes peeled. Without a doubt, Teularju, Giuseppe Sedilesu and Jankara represent a great starting point.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744295574305-The+Alberello-trained+vineyards+of+Cantina+Mesa+in+Sardinia%27s+southwest_Vinous.jpg)

_Cantina Mesa's Alberello-trained vineyards._

### Recent Vintages

In many ways, Sardinia has been very lucky through recent vintages. While much of Italy struggled to adjust to the effects of global warming, locals in Sardinia have dealt with sweltering heat and drought for many decades, as have the grapes themselves. That said, in some cases, alcohol levels can become problematic. Tenute Dettori, in the extreme northwest, crafts wines of remarkable balance through biodynamic principles. Unfortunately, these wines must be enjoyed in moderation, as some can reach as high as 17.5% alcohol. Alessandro Dettori explains, “As a natural producer, we have to take what Mother Nature gives to us.” It’s worth noting that a vintage can be incredibly different from one side of the island to the other. Sardinia, at 9,301 square miles, has highly variable weather patterns. This is especially evident in a vintage like 2023, where the south and center of the island received rain while the northeast did not.

The 2022 reds are charming and fruit-forward, maintaining balance despite the dry warmth of the vintage. Some Vermentinos lean more into the tropical fruit spectrum, yet they still deliver gobs of pleasure. The growing season began with ample rainfall in autumn and winter of 2021, providing adequate water reserves throughout the vegetative cycle. Average temperatures from May onward exceeded norms, coupled with a lack of precipitation. Though the vines were stressed, rain at the end of the season in late August provided relief. Most wineries reported slightly early harvests (five to seven days ahead of usual) and healthy fruit. In the best cases, the 2022s should mature beautifully through medium-term cellaring.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744295794196-Centenial+bush+vines+in+the+Carignano+del+Sulcis+DOC_Vinous.jpg)

_Centennial bush vines in the Carignano del Sulcis DOC._

Inconsistency is a significant issue with the 2023 vintage. Wines from the coastal areas bear the mark of a warm, arid vintage but maintain high acidity, while those from the region's interior suffered like most of Italy due to an outbreak of downy mildew. The season began with a mild winter, leading to extended precipitation through the spring. The coastal areas benefitted, as the rain built up water supplies in the soils and dry air currents from Africa and southern France helped ward off disease. However, in the more mountainous and central parts of Sardinia, an outbreak of Peronospora (downy mildew) disrupted flowering, reducing eventual yields. In the northeastern region of Gallura, there was little to no rain throughout much of the season. The following summer months were arid and warm, leading to an early yet healthy harvest. Readers can expect more fruit-forward and slightly compressed wines overall. In areas such as Barbagia, reduced quantities and inferior fruit swayed winemakers to decide against bottling their single vineyard wines.

_I tasted the wines for this article in our New York City offices in February 2025._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Sardinia: Winemaking in the Extreme](https://vinous.com/articles/sardinia-winemaking-in-the-extreme-nov-2023), Eric Guido, November 2023

[Tipping the Scales: New Releases from Umbria](https://vinous.com/articles/tipping-the-scales-new-releases-from-umbria-oct-2023), Eric Guido, October 2023

[Surpassing Expectations: New Releases from Sicily](https://vinous.com/articles/surpassing-expectations-new-releases-from-sicily-sep-2023), Eric Guido, September 2023

[Where the Wild Things Are: Welcome to Sardinia](https://vinous.com/articles/where-the-wild-things-are-welcome-to-sardinia-mar-2021), Eric Guido, March 2021



The Brutal Beauty of Sardinia: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages

The Brutal Beauty of Sardinia: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages (Apr 2025)

### 2025 Champagne: New Releases

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 8, 2025

My annual March trip to Champagne is always one the highlights of the year. Many producers are preparing to launch their new releases. At the larger houses, this is the time when winemakers are finalizing their blends and deciding whether or not they are going to bottle their tête de cuvées. With spring around the corner, thoughts start to turn to the young vintage and what it might bring.

This year, things were different. Very different. Deep concern over the global economy and the United States’ tariff policies, now instated, cast a pall on every tasting. With the experience of 2020, some producers had already sent a significant portion of their projected 2025 sales volume to the U.S. Even so, the mood was distinctly subdued. That’s a shame, because Champagne continues to be one of the most dynamic regions in the world.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744121818480-Prevost_Vinous.jpg)

_Jérôme Prévost contemplating the state of the world in between wines._

**The Grandes Marques – The Changing of the Guard**

One of the biggest trends in recent years in Champagne has been the reawakening of the grandes marques following a period in which grower Champagnes gained massively in prominence with professional buyers and consumers alike. The sheer number of growers multiplied by the many wines they each make, along with the flat number of grand marques, led to a situation where grower Champagnes vastly dominate over large houses in terms of the sheer amount of real estate they command on restaurant lists, still the most coveted of placements. This has not gone unnoticed.

One of the first grandes marques to reinvent itself was Roederer, as I have written in many previous articles. Roederer’s push into organic and then biodynamic farming was not only innovative, but it also inspired other producers to do the same. Under the leadership of longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Roederer has become the largest farmer of biodynamic vineyards in Champagne. The flagship Cristal and Cristal Rosé are among the most contemporary Champagnes, while a bevy of new wines have increased the offerings considerably.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744121855179-Cavil+and+Krug_Vinous.jpg)

_Krug Chef de Caves Julie Cavil, flanked by tasting committee members Isabelle Bui and Jérôme Jacoillot at Krug’s new winemaking facility in Ambonnay._

The younger generation is following suit. At Dom Pérignon, Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon once again presented a range of _vins clairs_ to start the tasting, each accompanied by detailed maps of the corresponding plots. Last year, I toured several vineyard sites with the entire viticultural team. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy, Chaperon’s predecessor and mentor, rarely showed _vins clairs_. I don’t remember him ever mentioning a vineyard in all the years I tasted with him. Not once. That is not a criticism, it’s simply a reflection of how different generations of Chefs de Caves think about their roles. Chaperon has also decided to start bottling Dom Perignon in years where quality is high but volumes are low because he wants to document each vintage. That is another departure from the past. The 2017 Dom Pérignon, the last vintage vinified by Geoffroy, will be a tiny release that is projected to last in the market for just a few months. It is the smallest production ever for Dom Pérignon. Chaperon has bottled Dom Pérignon in every vintage from 2018 to 2024, except for 2023. More importantly, there is a new feeling of energy at Dom Pérignon today that is palpable.

At Krug, Chef de Caves Julie Cavil has added younger colleagues to her tasting committee with the goal of canvassing the views of several expert tasters. The new Krug winery in Ambonnay is a major step up from the cramped quarters in Reims and a bold investment for the future. This year, Krug introduces a Clos d’Ambonnay Rosé, the first wine they have added to their range in about 20 years, since the release of the 1995 Clos d’Ambonnay.

In Reims, Ruinart recently opened a gorgeous hospitality facility where guests can taste without an appointment and purchase a selection of Champagnes along with other items. In addition to their own Champagnes, Ruinart pours wines from two grower domaines in a rotating selection to enhance the guest experience at their tasting bar. The idea that a grande marque, or any winery for that matter, would show other producers’ wines alongside their own in their hospitality center shows both tremendous yet understated confidence and an openness to the world that is so refreshing. The previous generation of Chefs de Caves only concerned themselves with grande marque Champagne, and in some cases, with their wines only. This new vision reflects the contemporary attitude that Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis has brought to Ruinart. It’s hardly a surprise Panaïotis is making some of the most exciting wines in Champagne today.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744121887971-Selosse_Vinous.jpg)

_Tasting vins clairs at Selosse, where wines often approach the texture and weight of still wines in other regions._

**Growers on the Move**

On the grower front, the proliferation of young domaines continues to be nearly impossible to keep up with. That makes Champagne one of the most vibrant regions in the world. Many of the established grower domaines have now passed or are in the process of passing to the next generation. From a pure wine standpoint, grower Champagne continues to shine light on the potential of specific vineyard sites and micro-regions. This is even more true of areas that have historically been regarded as less important, that have been contracted out to larger houses, or where there have never been many benchmark domaines or wines to evaluate in the first place. Growers continue to experiment with some of the more obscure permitted varieties to creates new wines, the best of which are compelling. Various offshoots of sustainable farming continue to gain traction, including holistic concepts that encourage healthy and vibrant ecosystems beyond just the vine, such as regenerative farming and vitoforestry, where trees are planted within vineyards.

From a practical standpoint, grower domaines often struggle from being small and subscale. The administrative and bureaucratic requirements that are imposed on wineries today are especially daunting for smaller, family-run estates. Moreover, purchasing land and achieving growth are increasingly difficult. Last but certainly not least are issues around inheritance taxes, which in France are especially punishing. Pretty much every grower domaine would like to make and sell more wine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744121914172-Chartogne_Vinous.jpg)

_Alexandre Chartogne’s framework for Champagne divides wines into those that are composed of mostly mineral matter (left) and those that are predominantly organic (right) and are therefore more vulnerable to decomposition. Mineral wines are vinified and aged with minimal oxygenation. The goal is to preserve that mineral character. Chartogne believes that organic wines are less interesting and more likely to age relatively quickly. His goal is to transform some of their organic matter to mineral though gentle oxidation during élevage. As a result, these wines (the Meuniers, for example) see more oxygen during their time in barrel._

**2024: First Thoughts**

Tasting _vins clairs_ is a very good way to get an idea of the new vintage, especially in a challenging year like 2024 where sectors experienced widely different conditions. That said, I have found that extrapolating these tastings into an idea of what the finished Champagnes will be like to be a tenuous exercise at best because so much takes place with blending and long aging on the lees, when the young wines transform into Champagne. Moreover, producers only show a small selection of their base wines, and these are naturally going to be the best in the cellar. Nevertheless, I never miss an opportunity to taste _vins clairs_, as these tastings are highly educational.

In 2024, the main theme was rain, rain and more rain. Average rainfall during the growing season was around 700 mm. Some regions saw close to double that. Mildew was a constant threat throughout the year. The most dramatic period was around September 23 and 24, in which as much as 80 mm of rain fell in two days. Naturally, well-draining sites, such as those on chalk, were favored. The northern Montagne de Reims, which includes Mailly, Verzy and Verzenay, saw considerably less rain than the southern Montagne de Reims.

“The clear winner of the year is Meunier because of its short vegetative cycle, which adapted well to the conditions of 2024” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon explained at Roederer. “We used 30% Meunier in the Collection, the most ever.” Lécaillon bottled both Cristal and Cristal Rosé. “We essentially had a window of ten days of favorable weather to pick everything. Before then, it was not ripe, and after, it rained,” Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon explained at Dom Pérignon. “It all comes down to the capacity of sites to drain, as was the case in the northern Montagne de Reims and well-draining sites in Aÿ, which did better than Bouzy, for example. We are less happy with our Meuniers.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744121982988-Giraud_Vinous.jpg)

_Innovation is a constant theme at Henri Giraud. Barrels on the top row of this image were built with sandstone heads._

“It was extremely difficult in the vineyard,” Chef de Caves Julie Cavil explained at Krug. “Between mildew and yields that were down close to 50%, we really struggled in the vineyard. This is the widest range we have ever seen between what we experienced in the vineyard and then what we saw later in the wines.”

For 2024, the maximum permitted yield in Champagne was 10,000 kilos per hectare, a touch lower than in previous years because of lighter demand in global markets. Most producers reported yields down 40-50% from that number. There are some exceptions. Father-and-son team Laurent and Thomas Champs reported a full crop at Vilmart. Even with lower yields, most Chef de Caves I spoke at the larger houses bottled their tête de cuvées. I tasted only a few samples from the Aube, which was hit especially hard with a devastating combination of frost, hail and rain that lowered production to virtually nothing in the most affected areas.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744122010407-Laval_Vinous.jpg)

_Tasting vins clairs with Vincent Laval at the new barrel cellar just a few steps away from the old cellar, which is now used for aging._

**Looking Back at 2022**

This year, readers will start to see the first non-vintage Champagnes based on 2022. I have been critical in the past of some recent drier vintages, such as 2015 and 2020, where so many wines are marked by a pronounced vegetal character. I am happy to report that, so far, I do not see those issues in the 2022-based wines, despite considerable heat stress in certain sectors.

For further context, by now it is no secret that Champagne has struggled in some warmer years with wines that often show a vegetal character that suggests underripe fruit. This is one of the modern dilemmas in Champagne. When I asked producers about this in their young 2015s, most of them either pushed back or were not very happy to hear my comments. But time is the great equalizer. And over time, it became clear that many 2015s indeed had a vegetal character. A few years later, vintage 2020 offered a sort of replay, except by then, producers had more widely accepted the idea that warm vintages might be more challenging than they seemed initially. Research is underway to understand if these issues are related to a mismatch of sugar versus phenolic ripeness or perhaps to the appearance of certain kinds of mushrooms. I tend to think it is more a question of the former. One thing is certain: Choosing harvest dates in Champagne in the past was almost always done using technical lab data. In other regions, top winemakers know that, while technical data may offer support, the best way to know when to harvest is by taste analysis. This approach has been slower to arrive in Champagne but now seems to be more widely used. Perhaps that explains the relative success of 2022. I am curious to taste more wines as they arrive onto the market.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744122047098-Peters_Vinous.jpg)

_These two 2017s from Pierre Péters say it all when it comes to how different sites respond to challenging weather, in this case, late-season rains. Chétillons, with its chalky soils, was clearly favored over Montjolys, where clay-based soils are more water-retentive._

**About this Article**

I tasted all the wines in this report during a week in Champagne in March 2025. The selection of producers is driven be release dates, which in many cases are directly tied to disgorgement dates and the time necessary for wines to be ready to taste following disgorgement. We will add reviews to this article in the coming months.  
  

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-icons-roederer-four-decades-of-cristal-cristal-rose-nov-2024), Antonio Galloni, November 2024

[Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview and Fall Additions](https://vinous.com/articles/champagne-the-2024-spring-preview-mar-2024), Antonio Galloni, March 2024

[Champagne: 2023 New Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/champagne-2023-new-releases-nov-2023), Antonio Galloni, November 2023

[The 2022 Champagne New Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/the-2022-champagne-new-releases-may-2022), Antonio Galloni, May 2022

[Champagne: 2021 New Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/champagne-2021-new-releases-nov-2021), Antonio Galloni, November 2021

[2016 Champagne: Harvest Report](https://vinous.com/articles/2016-champagne-harvest-report-apr-2017), Antonio Galloni, April 2017

  


2025 Champagne: New Releases

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

### Middle East Update: Lebanon and Syria

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | APRIL 9, 2025

This brief report highlights recent releases from Syria and Lebanon, focusing on Château Musar, Château Marsyas, Château Kefraya and Domaine de Bargylus. Lebanon currently cultivates approximately 3,000 hectares of vineyards, comparable in size to the AOC of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The country produces around ten million bottles of wine annually, half of which are exported. However, the absence of state-level regulations often results in inconsistent quality, with many wines of a fairly basic caliber.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744131762502-Harvest+time+at+Ch%C3%A2teau+Marsyas_Vinous.JPG)

_Harvest time at Château Marsyas._

Lebanon was under a French mandate from 1920 to 1943, and French influence remains deeply ingrained in its winemaking traditions. The country primarily cultivates Mediterranean red varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan, alongside Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The most commonly produced white wines are Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. There has also been a continuing focus on indigenous Lebanese grapes, such as Merwah and Obeideh.

Lebanon’s vineyards are concentrated in the Bekaa Valley, at the foothills of Mount Lebanon, where elevations reach around 1,000 meters above sea level. The region benefits from a Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and cool nights. Planting densities vary, with lower-end vineyards at approximately 2,500 vines per hectare, while top-quality producers often plant at more than double that density to enhance concentration and complexity. By contrast, Syria’s wine industry is far less developed. Domaine de Bargylus remains the only Syrian estate that exports wine, underscoring the country’s limited presence on the international stage.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744131814000-Snow+covered+vineyards+at+Domaine+de+Bargylus_Vinous.jpg)

_Snow-covered vineyards at Domaine de Bargylus._

A recent tasting confirmed the strength of both countries’ red wines. While the selection of white wines was largely unremarkable, the reds stood out, particularly those with Syrah in the blend. Apart from Château Musar and the Satyr Cabernet Sauvignon, all the reds tasted for this small report contain a proportion of Syrah. The variety’s distinct spiciness neatly complements the black fruit and herbal notes characteristic of Cabernet Sauvignon. For further details on the producers featured in this report, readers will want to consult the respective producer profiles.

_I tasted all the wines for this report at my Zurich office in February 2025._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Cellar Favorite:](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-1960-1974-and-new-releases-of-chateau-musar-apr-2023)[1960, 1974 and New Releases of Château Musar](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-1960-1974-and-new-releases-of-chateau-musar-apr-2023), Neal Martin, April 2023

###   



Middle East Update: Lebanon and Syria

Middle East Update: Lebanon and Syria (Apr 2025)

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

### Alsace 2023: Astonishing Whites and Splendid Reds from a Complex Year

BY ANNE KREBIEHL, MW | APRIL 1, 2025

Dry, dry, dry—this is how Alsatian vignerons remember the 2023 vintage. Once again, soil types were predictors of success. Sandy, gravelly sites on the plain suffered, and steep, stony sites of granite and sandstone struggled. However, more water-retentive limestone and marl soils generally fared well. Whether a vineyard got some respite from a refreshing shower after a thunderstorm was purely down to luck. But dryness was just one aspect of this complex year. Sévérine Schlumberger said, “Two thousand twenty-three was a vintage like I had never experienced before. It felt like four different vintages in one year.” Jean Dirler of Domaine Dirler-Cade used the term “curious” to describe 2023, with “several periods of heat and drought and several periods of cooler weather, changing all the time.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743443429140-Not+snow+but+hoar+frost+characterized+the+Vosges+mountains+in+January+2025+with+the+sun+breaking+through+moody+clouds_Vinous.jpg)

_Hoar frost settled in the Vosges mountains in January 2025, pictured here with the sun breaking through the clouds._

**The Course of the Year**

Spring was especially dry, with just 16.5 mm of rain falling in the first three months of the year. Compare that to 63 mm in 2022 and 74 mm in 2024 for the same period. Cooler temperatures ensured a later budburst, which meant that most growers escaped April frosts. Hot weather during flowering was a positive for Pinot varieties, which had plentiful yields, but it also meant _coulure_ (poor fruit-set) for Riesling. Dryness really took hold in summer, with June 2023 the second hottest since records began in 1931. The warm weather also posed oidium (powdery mildew) pressure. July remained warm but saw some showers, with August cooling down and bringing much-needed rain. September was the hottest in Alsace since 1947. The Indian summer carried into October with summery temperatures, culminating in seemingly never-ending rain.

“There was a real spring,” said Mélanie Pfister in Dahlenheim, located close to Strasbourg in the north of Alsace. Pfister noted a slow awakening of nature, thankfully without the risk of spring frost, as a cool April delayed the vines. She recalled, “Everything went pretty fast from May onwards. May and June were really dry. We planted new plots and had to water them five times. In two months, we did not even have 40 mm of rain, something that I had never experienced before. Neither had my father. Fortunately, there was no blockage of ripening because showers in late July and early August brought relief, right before a late-August heatwave and a warm September with temperatures exceeding 30°C.”

Charles Sparr in Wettolsheim (just outside Colmar in central Alsace) described a “relatively dry and mild winter,” with a cooler March delaying vegetation beyond any spring frost danger. He added, “Spring was quite warm, and flowering started in the second week of June in hot weather. In July, we saw that some vineyards started to have some dry stress. Some sites suffered, especially on sandy and granitic soils, but all the limestone sites were in good shape.” A cooler August followed, which, according to Sparr, “saved the harvest.” Further south, in Bergholtz, Jean Dirler remembers his thermometer reading 38°C on July 9 and nights cooling down to 8°C in August. Despite these extremes, no producers reported slow ferments. On the contrary, fermentation posed no problems at all in 2023, pointing to balanced, healthy fruit.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743443293434-M%C3%A9lanie+Pfister+is+one+of+Alsace%27s+young+stars.+Her+Pinot+Noir+Rahn+is+particularly+seductive._Vinous.jpg)

_Mélanie Pfister is one of Alsace's young stars. Her Pinot Noir Rahn is particularly seductive._

**The 2023 Rieslings**

August rains came as a relief to everyone but were especially beneficial to Riesling, which had a smaller crop load due to the poor fruit-set from heat during flowering. When heat and dryness coincide, Riesling tends to slow and eventually shut down its metabolism. This is why the 2023 Rieslings do not taste of heat or stress. Pierre Trimbach confirmed, “The dryness did not bring us very high sugar levels.” He also noted that some grapes had to be discarded due to dry stress. Other producers decided to declassify some Grand Cru Rieslings, especially from granite sites. However, older vines with established root networks and lower natural yields weathered 2023 with aplomb and brought forth stunning wines. Some winemakers seemed positively surprised that a year that had been so dry yielded such fresh, lively wines. In sites that did not suffer, the dryness simply meant delay so that sugar levels did not race ahead of phenolic ripeness, affording the grapes full aromatic development. The 2023 Rieslings thus have concentration, moderate alcohol, ripe acidity and great aging potential.

**Pinot Gris and Sylvaner Excel**

Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer performed well in 2023, the result of healthy fruit and good yields. Even Sylvaner shines with notable fruit expression in this vintage, which is not a dig at Sylvaner but merely an observation. Sylvaner tends to deliver wines of texture and subtle aromas and rarely boasts such fruity notes, yet another indicator of the aromatic success of 2023. As always, the stylistic spectrum of both Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer is broad, a function of farming and harvest points. The quality these varieties can achieve truly surprises me, especially Pinot Gris. For producers trying to make bone-dry, taut styles of Pinot Gris, Etienne Loew in Westhoffen put it succinctly: “If you ask yourself twice whether this is the right moment to pick, you are three times late already.” Pinot Gris did exceptionally well in 2023, with some as tense and snappy as Riesling, but without sacrificing fruit. These wines garnered some really high scores, and yes, I am surprised to be writing this. By the same token, the more “classic” Pinot Gris styles, with residual sugar and amplitude of body and fruit, also present wonderful balance. Dry Gewurztraminer is much harder to pull off, and most of the wines I tasted have some residual sweetness. The range of styles here is more defined by textural elements, sometimes helped along by partial skin-fermentation. Readers who have not tasted mature Gewurztraminer at 10+ years of bottle age should investigate. The variety may not be in line with the lighter, brighter zeitgeist, but it reaches some of its greatest expressions in Alsace, especially with age.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743515794366-Thomas+Larmoyer+of+Soil+Therapy+is+a+real+garagiste%2C+and+some+freshly+packed+boxes+served+as+my+desk_Vinous.jpg)

_Thomas Larmoyer of Soil Therapy is a real garagiste._

### The Pinot Noirs

While Alsace still does its stock-in-trade of light, fruity, easy-drinking Pinot Noir, there now are some serious and elegant expressions of the variety, wines that are reflective of site without the need to resort to extraction or oak in order to be taken seriously. As of the 2023 vintage, the Hengst site in Wintzenheim and the Kirchberg de Barr achieved Grand Cru designation; beginning with the 2024 vintage, the same will be allowed for Vorbourg in Rouffach. I am told that another application is underway to pursue Grand Cru status for Pinot Noir for Furstentum in Kientzheim, a process that may take years. Notably, these sites are all on various kinds of limestone and marl-limestone, but as we know, Pinot Noir can yield exceptional wines on various soil types.

With every visit to Alsace, I hear more and more of Pinot Noir-based plans, i.e., the intention to plant the variety in small but significant parcels to make small but exceptional batches of red wine. Some producers intend to graft existing parcels to Pinot Noir, like Jean-Christophe Bott did in 2021 with a 0.4-hectare parcel of Furstentum that he grafted over from Pinot Gris. Pierre Trapet plans to do the same, also in Furstentum. Sadly, we have to be patient to taste the results, but these small increases in hectarage are gradual and steady. The excitement about the variety is clear. While Pinot Noir still occupies only 12% of Alsace plantings (1,840 hectares), this represents a 10-hectare increase since 2023 and a giant jump since modern Alsace statistics began in 1969. At that time, there were a mere 198 hectares of Pinot Noir in the entire region, which represented just 2.1% of the then-total vine area of 9,441 hectares. Of course, a sizeable part of the region’s Pinot Noir now goes into Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which by law must be 100% Pinot Noir, but the regional trend and qualitative intent are quite clear and certainly evident in the glass. As regards the lighter styles mentioned before, these are wines of purest pleasure. Consumed with a slight chill on a summer evening, a bottle can disappear very quickly indeed.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743443344072-New+Blood+in+Alsace+-+Angela+Prado+and+Ghislain+Moritz+of+Maison+Moritz+Prado+smile+in+their+new+winery+in+the+high-altitude+village+of+Alb%C3%A9_Vinous.jpg)

_New blood in Alsace: Angela Prado and Ghislain Moritz of Maison Moritz-Prado smile in their new winery in the high-altitude village of Albé._

**Effervescent News**

Two big effervescent surprises awaited me on my January visits this year. Crémant d’Alsace, as reported last year, is a powerful motor for the region, with various cooperatives pumping out millions of bottles that do exceptionally well in French supermarkets. In 2024, Crémant accounted for 36.3% of the region’s total output, up from last year’s 33%. However, while this perfectly competent if anodyne fizz might not excite the dedicated bubbleheads among us, two names will: both Zind-Humbrecht and Famille Hugel are now producing Crémant d’Alsace, a move that demonstrates what a hot category Crémant has become.

While Zind-Humbrecht is still in the experimental stage, with nothing readily disgorged for me to taste (I had heard the rumor and sprung the question on Olivier Humbrecht during my visit), I was able to taste the Crémant d’Alsace at Hugel. Olivier Humbrecht said that he and his son Pierre-Émile, who was the impetus behind the project, started experimenting in 2020 with Chardonnay grown at Clos Windsbuhl. The Humbrechts were pleased with the initial results and did it again in 2022, this time including some single-site Pinot Blanc. The experimental bottles are still on lees, and so is the larger batch made in 2024.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743443221723-Blue+skies+and+full+sunshine+light+up+the+grand+cru+of+kastelberg+rising+behind+the+historic+facades+of+Andlau_Vinous.jpg)

_Blue skies and full sunshine light up the Grand Cru of Kastelberg, rising behind the historic facades of Andlau._

At Famille Hugel, the Crémant project was initiated by Marc-André Hugel (cousin of Jean-Frédéric Hugel), who grew up in Champagne, but this is not intended to be a Champagne copy. The Hugel Crémant is a blend of Pinot Noir and Riesling with a smaller portion of Pinot Gris, disgorged after four years on lees with just 4 g/L of dosage. Jean-Frédéric Hugel explained, “The idea was to create something original, hence including Riesling that producers often run away from [when it comes to Crémant], and then long lees-aging” The initial production of 6,000 bottles will launch in 2025 and might be the beginning of a great new story for Hugel. But Crémant ambition is also evident elsewhere. At Crémant-specialist Jean-Claude Buecher in Wettolsheim, every step of the process, including bottling, is now done in house. At Domaine Emile Beyer in Eguisheim, Valérie and Christian Beyer have planted more Chardonnay in the lieu-dit Stech close to Grand Cru Pfersigberg to make _Crémant de terroir_, also dedicating space in the new cellar for aging Crémant. Christian Beyer believes that “Crémant can have the signature of the soil.” The single-site Crémants of Domaine Valentin Zusslin have illustrated this point for years.

**Eruptive News**

There is also excellent news for lovers of volcanic-influenced wines. Wolfberger, the cooperative behemoth, has divested all but a tiny part of its holdings in Grand Cru Rangen, a steep, imposing volcanic site in the far south of the region and one of the most iconic in Alsace. To date, only two domaines marketed Rangen far and wide, namely Zind-Humbrecht and Schoffit (both reviewed here). There are three lucky buyers with 1.3 hectares each: Domaine Trapet, Domaine Marcel Deiss and Château Ollwiller (to be reviewed in the coming year). This is exciting because this challenging site deserves—no, demands—to be farmed by brilliant winemakers who can do it justice. “It is a legendary Grand Cru,” Trapet said, adding, “Rangen is the place to be, because it is hard, and you have to be clever. You feel the strength of the place.” Trapet plans to increase vine density by planting in inter-rows. He, Mathieu Deiss and Mathieu Kauffmann also plan to have an experimental plot, or a “test zone,” as Trapet calls it, to plant ungrafted vines and test various grape varieties. The three new owners may install a monorail to deal with steepness. They may also have to rebuild the drystone walls and are considering employing drones for some spraying. “It is a big, big, big challenge,” Trapet said, one that he clearly relishes. Olivier Humbrecht added: “It shows that the reputation of the vineyard is strong enough to motivate people to go towards trouble,” meaning that the exceptional steepness of the site will demand much effort.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743443510038-They+say+you+should%27t+point+at+rainbows%2C+but+photographing+them+is+alright%2C+this+one+appeared+during+my+tasting+in+Bergheim_Vinous.jpg)_

_They say you shouldn't point at rainbows, but photographing them is alright. This one appeared during my tasting in Bergheim._

**The Outlook**

Much is happening in Alsace, with the merger of the co-op giants Wolfberger and Bestheim on course but yet to happen. The bifurcation of Alsace into mass production and artisanal excellence continues, but the news in this report is cause for optimism, as are new and younger domaines like Soil Therapy and Maison Moritz Prado.

_I tasted the wines in this report during estate visits in January 2025.  
  
© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._  
  

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2022-reds-continuing-their-trajectory-may-2024), Anne Krebiehl, MW, May 2024

[Alsace 2022 Whites: A Lucky Escape](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2022-whites-a-lucky-escape-apr-2024), Anne Krebiehl MW, April 2024

[Alsace 2020s and 2021s: Just like Janus](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2020s-and-2021s-just-like-janus-apr-2023), Anne Krebiehl MW, April 2023



Alsace 2023: Astonishing Whites and Splendid Reds from a Complex Year

Alsace 2023: Astonishing Whites and Splendid Reds from a Complex Year (Apr 2025)

### Southern Italy: Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria & Molise

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 27, 2025

We publish coverage of the smaller regions in Southern Italy, which include Molise, Puglia, Basilicata and Calabria, every two years. This is mostly because the number of essential wines made in each of these regions is rather small. With the exception of Vulture and a handful of notable producers in each region mentioned above, much of the wine made in Southern Italy is meant for early consumption and easy drinking, or is otherwise not especially remarkable. This isn’t the first time I’ve publicly stated this; the fact remains that each time I set out to write this report, very few new wineries submit new releases.

That said, there are tremendous opportunities for growth and high-quality wine production in Southern Italy. I see no reason why these regions can’t excel. Some might argue that the extremely warm and dry conditions in the south yield wines excessively high in alcohol and residual sugar. But many producers within these regions craft balanced and complex wines worthy of collectors’ cellars. Unfortunately, most wineries here are hesitant to disrupt the status quo. What’s more, seldom do young winemakers from these areas reach out to discuss their innovations in local winemaking or exciting new projects. This happens often in the other regions I review, but not here.

The good news is that there _are_ wines worth talking about, just not as many as there should be. In the notes that follow, readers will find eye-opening and cellar-worthy Aglianico from Puglia and Vulture, deeply complex Primitivo that can stand up to the great California Zinfandels, Ciro that rivals Barolo and Barbaresco, and a few surprisingly jaw-dropping Fianos.

 ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742923360275-Vinous_Within+the+Ceraudo+vineyards%2C+Calabria.jpg)

_The Ceraudo vineyards in Calabria_

### Pugliese Potential

I want nothing more than for Puglia to succeed. The Italian side of my family originates from Puglia. The region’s traditional cuisines filled our dinner table when I was a child. Yet, when it came to wine, all that mattered to my family was whether it was white or red. To this day, I can’t say if I ever tasted anything at that table that moved me. I certainly didn’t seek sips from my grandparents’ cups (they didn’t use fancy glassware). When learning about wine decades ago, I looked to Puglia, but what I found didn’t excite me. Revisiting the region over the years, I longed to see an uptick in quality, but instead, I found only a handful of wineries that moved the needle. Some of these wineries have begun to do amazing things, cementing my belief in the potential of Puglia. But on a larger scale, the region is simply not there yet.

_Why not?_

Much of this has to do with surmaturation, a practice that isn’t often discussed but is utilized more often than not in regions like Puglia. Surmaturation refers to late-harvesting fruit beyond technical ripeness in order to increase the concentration of sugars, acids and aromas. This is why the average Primitivo, juicy and fresh as it might seem, sports 15-16.5% alcohol and residual sugar from 8-10 grams per liter. The use of surmaturation prevents wineries from creating wines with nuance, complexity and the ability to age.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742922814326-Vinous_The+barrrel+aging+cellar+of+Bocca+di+Lupo%2C+Puglia.jpg)

_The barrel-aging cellar at Bocca di Lupo, Puglia_

Terroir is another limiting factor. Much of the region’s vineyards are situated in the flatter areas or on gentle hillsides that gradually increase in elevation as they move inland from the sea. Many parts of Puglia are influenced by the Ionian and Adriatic Seas. Salento, the southernmost part of the region, forms a peninsula. Puglia's hot and dry Mediterranean climate and fertile soils lend well to big, fruit-forward wines. However, if there’s one common refrain I hear repeated across winemaking regions worldwide, it’s that grape vines like to suffer. Without a struggle to thrive, the fruit these vines produce is often lackluster. Simply achieving ripe fruit doesn’t make great wine. Therefore, it’s important to consider smaller pockets of terroir over a region as a whole. For example, Castel del Monte, close to the borders of Basilicata and Vulture, can give rise to far more interesting wines than many other parts of the larger region. In Castel del Monte, elevations reach 300 meters, and the soil transitions into rocky, sheer limestone. Here, winemakers focus on the high-acid, tannic Nero di Troia variety, as well as Aglianico that can compete with the best from Campania and even white varieties like Fiano. Producers like Tenuta Bocca di Lupo, Antinori’s Tormaresca, and Rivera craft exciting wines worth hunting down.

For Primitivo-lovers, there are a variety of options. The Primitivo di Manduria DOC encompasses the flatlands and gentle hills stretching east from the town of Taranto. Soils change from sandy to loamy to calcareous moving inland. The potential for great winemaking in this part of Puglia has much to do with the wide temperature swings between day and night. Producers like Masseria Li Veli and Masseria Cuturi take advantage of smaller individual parcels throughout their vineyards to make balanced wines that communicate terroir.

I’ll keep my fingers crossed and my hopes high for Puglia. The producers I mentioned here give me hope for the region.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742922670044-Vinous_The+crater+lakes+of+Mount+Vulture.jpg)

_The crater lakes of Mount Vulture_

**Vulture Versus Mother Nature: The 2023 Vintage**

When it comes to Basilicata, wine lovers immediately think of Vulture, and with good reason. Not only is Aglianico del Vulture the region's most important wine, but it’s also the only wine that meaningfully reaches beyond the local market. Aside from Aglianico del Vulture, the only other notable DOC in Basilicata is Matera. Established in 2005 along the border of Puglia, the Matera DOC stretches toward the town of Murgia. On paper, Matera shows excellent potential for Primitivo, as its higher elevations feature calcareous limestone soils. However, the Matera DOC also allows for two other red categories: Rosso, which must contain at least 60% Sangiovese and 30% Primitivo, and Matera Moro, which mixes a minimum of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Primitivo and 10% Merlot. For white wines, the DOC allows for Greco and Malvasia Bianca di Basilicata, although this category is seriously underrepresented in Basilicata.

This brings us back to Aglianico del Vulture. For a detailed description of the region's terroir, subregions, and goings-on, reference my 2024 article, [Getting in on the Ground Floor: Aglianico del Vulture](https://v1.vinous.com/articles/getting-in-on-the-ground-floor-aglianico-del-vulture-may-2024). However, the challenges of the 2023 vintage are worth addressing. A large portion of Italy’s winegrowing regions suffered in 2023, with the worst conditions centered around Tuscany and Abruzzo. Extended periods of rain and cloudy weather during spring set the stage for the worst outbreak of Peronospora (downy mildew) most producers in these regions had ever seen. Many of the organic operations throughout Italy were left defenseless. Wineries commonly reported spray treatments to defend the vines, only to have the rain wash the treatments away the same day. As a result, some operations lost their entire production, while others were forced to declassify their red wines and produce only Rosatos. In the aftermath, some wineries stopped their organic practices altogether, fearing a repeat of 2023. In Vulture, the conditions were no different. I expect to see similar results from Campania, as Aglianico is highly susceptible to Peronospora.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742923001280-Vinous_The+Titolo+Vineyard+of+Elena+Fucci.jpg)

_Elena Fucci's Titolo Vineyard_

Elena Fucci of Azienda Agricola Elena Fucci and Verha Wines described what seemed like “forty days of continuous rain between May and June,” adding, “As a result, many vines did not flower and therefore did not produce any bunches.” Her losses totaled around 40-45% of her entire crop. Viviana Malafarina of Basilisco Winery explained, “By the end of June, the situation was already very bad, and many grape producers abandoned their vineyards until the following year!” Despite improving conditions throughout the rest of the season, the Peronospora infection continued, resulting in a 70% loss. Malafarina also noted that white varieties fared better in 2023 due to the difference in their bloom time and harvest. Unfortunately, most Vulture producers don’t make any white wine, which could have helped soften the blow from the loss of red wine production. Lorenzo Piccin of Grifalco succeeded in the 2023 vintage, having undertaken a painstaking selection process to eliminate unhealthy or underripe fruit. In the end, Grifalco’s production suffered a 40% loss.

What does this mean for the wines? For one thing, readers should expect releases from the 2023 vintage in Vulture to be extremely limited. I’ve only seen a snapshot from a few top producers who poured their heart and soul into making the best wines they could. However, consumers should be selective. What I have tasted thus far has generally been very good. The wines are undoubtedly more forward in nature, coming across as softer and more generous than usual, but without sacrificing complexity. Ultimately, 2023 is a vintage to buy from the producers you know and trust, as there will likely be significant variability in quality. At Elena Fucci, there will be no Riserva or Superiore in 2023, a respectable decision that Fucci made to ensure the best possible Titolo Classico.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742923176598-Vinous_Showing+the+diverse+terrain+of+Calabria%2C+the+155+hectare+Rosaneti+vineyard+of+Librandi.JPG)

_Librandi's 155-hectare Rosaneti vineyard reflects Calabria's diverse terrain._

### Calabria: Show Me The Money

Calabria is a perfect example of a missed opportunity. The region forms the "sole, instep and toe" of the Italian boot and excels at making fun, lighthearted wines. However, the Cirò DOC and its sole grape variety, Gaglioppo, deserve special consideration. The Cirò DOC centers around the towns of Cirò and Cirò Marina, with the Cirò Classico area stretching from the Sila Mountains down toward the Ionian coast. Closer to the sea, along the coastal plains, the wines are more jovial and juicier, almost akin to Beaujolais, but Gaglioppo also has a very serious side. Vines located further inland toward the hills struggle on these sun-baked slopes, stressed by water scarcity yet tempered by the influence of two seas and the dramatic temperature swings created by the Sila Mountains. Here, we find wines with rich profiles of dark fruit and spice, but Gaglioppo’s firm tannins require gentle maceration and extended aging. Achieving a balance between fruit and tannin is crucial, but the results are incredible when done right. Producers such as ‘A Vita and Ceraudo craft truly compelling wines that make me question why Gaglioppo and the Cirò DOC cannot seem to achieve the recognition they deserve. Even on a larger scale, the Librandi winery turns out a solid Cirò at a remarkably low price.

I look forward to the day when more Calabrian wineries realize the potential beneath their feet, but at this time, Calabria remains a land of opportunity.

### Lest We Forget Molise

Molise often goes unnoticed among Italy's many regions. The area could easily find its place in my coverage of Abruzzo, as Molise is a natural continuation of the Southern Abruzzo terroir. That said, the grape varieties grown in Molise set it apart from its more northerly neighbor. The Tintilla variety is indigenous to Molise and seldom found elsewhere. Typically high in alcohol and acidity, the grape displays peppery red berry fruit characteristics. Until 20 years ago, Tintilla was considered a farmer's wine. However, Claudio Cipressi of Cipressi Winery identified the best biotypes and planted 15 hectares of vines, elevating the grape's status. Today, those vineyards have come to full maturity, and the wines Cipressi creates from them are very special and worth seeking out. I’d love to see more wineries attempt to champion Tintilla, but it remains obscure outside the region. Molise is best known for its most widely distributed producer, Di Majo Norante. These wines represent fantastic value in the lower-to-mid-range, yet for my tastes, their premium labels lean too heavily on oak. Majo Norante’s Sangiovese and Montepulciano are well worth checking out, as is their late-release Aglianico Sassius.

I urge readers to reference our vintage charts for updates on current vintages, including 2022 and 2023. I’ve provided detailed information on the recent seasons in Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia.

_I tasted the wines for this article in our offices in New York City in January 2025._

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

**You Might Also Enjoy**  

[Getting in on the Ground Floor: Aglianico del Vulture](https://vinous.com/articles/getting-in-on-the-ground-floor-aglianico-del-vulture-may-2024), Eric Guido, May 2024

[Breaking the Mold: Campania’s Push to Reinvent Itself](https://vinous.com/articles/breaking-the-mold-campania-s-push-to-reinvent-itself-may-2024), Eric Guido, May 2024

[Southern Italy: Diamonds in the Rough](https://vinous.com/articles/southern-italy-diamonds-in-the-rough-jul-2023), Eric Guido, July 2023

[Basilicata: Vulture’s Rise from the Ashes](https://vinous.com/articles/basilicata-vultures-rise-from-the-ashes-sep-2022), Eric Guido, September 2022

[Treasures of Italy’s Southern Adriatic and Ionian Coasts](https://vinous.com/articles/treasures-of-italy-s-southern-adriatic-and-ionian-coasts-jul-2021), Eric Guido, July 2021



Southern Italy: Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria & Molise

Southern Italy: Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria & Molise (Mar 2025)

### Strutting Peacocks: Raymond-Lafon 1979-2021

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 26, 2025

When I was a kid, Mum would take me to Chalkwell Park to look at the animals. This zoo (in the loosest definition of that word) was comprised of several adjoining cages that, in those unenlightened times, imprisoned a lonely black bear and squawking monkeys. Thankfully, animal welfare officers shut down the operation at some point. The only one of God’s creatures that remained was a family of peacocks that strutted ‘round their pen, ostentatiously displaying their extravagant metallic blue/green plumage as if entering the Met Gala. Peacocks used to roam around Raymond-Lafon. They seemed perfectly at home at this Sauternes estate and imbued it with an exotic ambiance. None were strutting around when I made an overdue visit last year, and…I kind of missed them. Fortunately, the estate _does_ continue to produce one of the region’s finest sweet wines.

There is a dearth of history about Raymond-Lafon. There is no official website, not even a mention in Clive Coates’ otherwise comprehensive “Grand Vin” bible. Raymond Lafon was a mayor in Sauternes who created the property in 1850, and since it preceded the official classification by just five years, the estate was omitted from the rankings. Henceforth, Raymond-Lafon’s wines have always flown under the radar. The estate passed into the hands of Lafon’s sons-in-law, Louis and André Pontallier, whose family name will be familiar to devotees of Château Margaux, as André Pontallier was the late Paul Pontallier’s grandfather.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742914305972-Vinous_jean-pierre+meslier.JPG)

_Jean-Pierre Meslier opening the bottles, flanked by his young son_

By the time the Pontalliers’ descendants sold the vineyard in the fifties, it was in a dilapidated condition. When Pierre and Françine Meslier acquired the vineyard in 1972, there were fewer than four hectares under vine. However, Pierre Meslier had experience under his belt, having graduated from Montpellier School of Agronomy and serving as general manager of Yquem from 1963. Meslier divided his time between the two partially neighbouring estates until Yquem’s erstwhile proprietor, Comte de Lur-Saluces, could no longer accept what he viewed as a conflict of interest. Thereafter, Meslier devoted himself to Raymond-Lafon, expanding plantings to 11 hectares in piecemeal fashion. He applied the same tenets as those practiced at Yquem: pruning hard to limit yields, multiple passes through the vineyard to obtain pure botrytized berries and aging up to three years in between 80% and 100% new French oak. In 1990, the estate passed to Meslier’s daughter and two sons, Marie-Françoise, Charles-Henri and Jean-Pierre Meslier. When I first began visiting, there was some intra-familial contretemps, but I do not know the details. I assume they have since been settled.

Raymond-Lafon is situated in the commune of Bommes, with parcels also located in Preignac. Vineyard holdings comprise 20 hectares, of which 16 are currently in production. The vineyards are planted to 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, incidentally, the same as Yquem.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742914341406-Vinous_raymond+lafon+bottles.JPG)

This vertical tasting focused on recent vintages, with several older bottles dating back to the 1979 vintage. The wines reflect the vagaries of the Sauternes growing seasons: when the wind blows favourably, for certain, Raymond-Lafon can produce exemplary Sauternes that equal the elite. Recent vintages that impress include 2016, 2017 and 2019, whilst the 1990, 2005 and 2009 should be on your shopping list if you seek wines with more maturity. A great Raymond-Lafon ages exceedingly well. The real turn-up for the books was the quality of the 1980 Raymond-Lafon, an appalling vintage for Sauternes. Happenstance meant that I tasted the 1980 Raymond-Lafon and 1980 Yquem within hours of each other, and dare I say, the former performed better.

Hopefully, the peacocks are still around. I like that quirkiness in what is an otherwise orthodox wine region.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time](https://vinous.com/articles/intellect-senses-bordeaux-with-time-mar-2025), Neal Martin, March 2025

[Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-2022-yquem-mar-2025), Neal Martin, March 2025

[Looking Back: 2007 Sauternes](https://vinous.com/articles/looking-back-2007-sauternes-oct-2022), Neal Martin, October 2022

[Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020](https://vinous.com/articles/magic-and-madness-climens-1912-2020-aug-2022), Neal Martin, August 2022

[Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013](https://vinous.com/articles/pierre-denis-jean-jacques-doisy-daene-l-extravagance-1942-2013-jan-2022), Neal Martin, January 2022

[Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes](https://vinous.com/articles/stand-and-deliver-2001-sauternes-sep-2021), Neal Martin, September 2021



Strutting Peacocks: Raymond-Lafon 1979-2021

Strutting Peacocks: Raymond-Lafon 1979-2021 (Mar 2025)

### New Zealand Whites: Never Gonna Give You Up

BY REBECCA GIBB, MW | MARCH 25, 2025

Rick Astley is forever tied to “Never Gonna Give You Up.” The 1987 breakthrough hit made him a household name. But if you’re asked to think of another Rick Astley hit, you’ll likely draw a blank. It’s the song people want at every concert. It’s the song that gets played on ‘80s radio stations day in and day out. It’s the song that pays the bills—Astley is worth an estimated $16 million—and it has kept him in the public eye for the past 40 years. He has other songs, but the world only wants “Never Gonna Give You Up.” Astley must feel like he’s stuck on repeat. This is the same dilemma facing many New Zealand winemakers when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc. The grape has been the country’s star performer, earning global recognition and securing New Zealand’s place in the global wine market. But while it continues to pay the bills and bring in praise, there’s a growing frustration with the idea of being defined by just one variety. New Zealand’s winemakers are inextricably linked with Sauvignon Blanc, but they can’t help but wonder what it might be like to be known for something else.

Rick Astley’s voice filled our ghetto blasters in the same period as Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc burst onto the international wine charts. This white wine style was as fresh and distinctive as Astley’s baritone voice and marked the beginnings of New Zealand’s global reputation as a wine producer. Marlborough was—and remains—the engine room of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc production. Such is the variety’s success in this corner of New Zealand’s South Island that the region’s output accounts for 72% of the country’s total wine production. The country has a remarkably short history compared with other New World wine nations. In fact, 2025 marks just 50 years since the first 50 acres of Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in Marlborough. In 1975, the grape variety first took root in the alluvial soils of the Wairau Valley alongside a fruit salad of other vines, from hybrids like Baco 22A to _Vitis vinifera_ that are now considered laughably unsuitable for this cool region at the top of New Zealand’s South Island. Inevitably, many varieties didn’t make the grade or didn’t survive at all. Half a century later, there are vines here as far as the eye can see, from the mountains to the sea, lines of green covering the valley floor, creeping upwards and sprawling into what remaining unplanted land there is.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742831569686-IMG_8897.jpg)

_Marlborough’s vineyards are increasingly heading up the hillsides, away from the valley floor._

There are some who openly wonder whether New Zealand should align itself more closely with Chardonnay, which some view as a finer partner to the country’s main red variety, Pinot Noir. New Zealand has built a loyal following for its Sauvignon Blanc, providing a launch pad for wineries, retailers and buyers to further exploration of the wines from the bottom of the earth, but Sauvignon Blanc does not have the allure of Chardonnay or Riesling to fine wine lovers. I receive plenty of pitying expressions when I reveal to these oenophiles the number of Sauvignon Blancs I taste each year. An undeniable snobbery exists towards this grape that is capable of finesse, restraint and evolution. Even its makers in the Loire don’t like to talk about Sauvignon Blanc because they claim not to like its varietal characteristics, despite spending their entire lives nurturing its vines and shaping its wines. For many, the definition of a fine wine includes ageworthiness, but does a lack thereof mean Sauvignon Blanc cannot make fine wine? Is that the view of Château Margaux toward Pavillon Blanc, or Anne Vatan to Clos la Néore? Hardly.

Inevitably, there are two very different ends of the New Zealand white wine market, as there are in most wine regions. Firstly, there are the traders, cropping vines with four canes and exhausting the soil to make light, bright, bulk Sauvignon Blanc to be piled high and sold in supermarkets. While they account for a hefty chunk of the production volume, there are plenty of smaller wineries that have the ambition to make wines not just with fruit, but also savory complexity, with the long-term goal of passing on a living, healthy ecosystem to the next generation—and the one beyond.

In the vineyards, there’s much discussion about improving soil health by moving away from traditional herbicides and fertilizers and toward under-vine weeding, cover crops and organic fertilizer. The term “regenerative agriculture” now peppers conversations with growers and producers, whereas a year ago, it was rarely mentioned. It is not just the small-scale producers making the commitment to better farming practices; Cloudy Bay is aiming for 500 hectares of its own vineyard to be herbicide-free this year and fully organic by 2030. Similarly, Craggy Range, whose plantings span 335 hectares across Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay, has also pledged to farm its entire vineyard area organically by 2030.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742831649611-IMG_8947.jpg)_

_Craggy Range is growing its plantings on Te Muna Road in Martinborough and moving toward organic farming._

While the future health of New Zealand’s vineyards is under scrutiny, the future of its bottled wines is also a hot topic. With regard to ageworthiness, there must be some consideration of bottle closures. Screwcaps are ubiquitous in New Zealand, sealing more than 90% of the country’s wines. Fed up with an increasing amount of subpar corks ruining wines in the 1990s, the New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative was formed in 2001 with 32 winery members. Since then, screwcaps have proliferated in the country. Is this the end of the cork story for New Zealand? Not necessarily. At the end of 2024, UK fine wine merchant Farr Vintners hosted a blind tasting of the same wines under both screwcap and cork, including two New Zealand producers—Kumeu River and Felton Road—as well as an extensive collection of wines from Burgundy’s Domaine Verget, which switched from natural cork to DIAM technical closure in 2012. While the 2002 Kumeu River wines under screwcap were certainly outliving and outshining those oxidizing under natural cork, there were no definitive conclusions to be drawn. Tasters disagreed. Results were varied.

This was certainly not a tasting that would hold up in a scientific journal. Some wines sealed under screwcaps sported more permeable liners than others, and some corks were natural while others were DIAM of varying specifications (winemakers can choose products assuring two-, three-, five-, 10- or 30-year preservation durations.) What’s more, some screwcaps appeared to be showing similar or occasionally even more evolution than their cork-sealed counterparts, which could have been due to the use of non-impermeable liners within the screwcap. For example, Verget switched to an impermeable liner within the screwcap from 2015 onwards, and the 2015 Pouilly Fuissé La Roche was unevolved compared with its cork counterpart.

One of the takeaways from the tasting was the slow evolution of wines using the technical cork DIAM 10, which has a relatively low permeability known as oxygen transmission rate, compared with the same wine under screwcap. However, DIAM uses a glue that creates a few issues for those with a green mindset. North Canterbury’s Pyramid Valley has farmed its vineyards biodynamically and bottled its wines under screwcap since its inception. Managing Director Steve Smith, MW has now decided to make the move to DIAM with the release of a more ecologically conscious closure that uses beeswax as the binding agent for the cork pieces rather than a synthetic agent. “I’ve been unwilling to change from screwcap to DIAM until I found a cork that fit with our sustainable ethos, but from the 2023 vintage, we’re moving to DIAM 10 Origine.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742831742678-NZ+Whites+Cover_Vinous.jpg)

_Marlborough’s Wrekin Vineyard is gaining renown for its organically grown Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir._

**A Review of the 2023/2024 Vintage**

Marlborough

Following two challenging vintages, the 2023/2024 season brought some relief for fatigued grape growers in New Zealand’s major wine-producing region. It had seemed a constant battle leading up to the harvest in both 2022 and 2023 with high disease pressure, particularly powdery mildew and botrytis, creating additional work for the region’s 485 growers. A dry season ahead of harvest in 2024 meant close to zero botrytis pressure. Matt Thomson, co-founder of Blank Canvas, explains, “It was some of the cleanest fruit I have seen in 64 vintages. I didn’t see a single botrytized berry.”

However, 2023/2024 was a small-yielding year for Marlborough, down 21% on the previous season. Spring weather was cool and grey, which presented far from ideal conditions for flowering, meaning the crop volume was already limited from the first half of the growing season. A cool late summer would’ve made it difficult to ripen fruit, too, but fortunately, the vines weren’t carrying much to begin with. Stu Marfell, chief winemaker for Foley Family Wines, says, “It wasn’t one of those summers where you’re always out swimming. It was cold right through until mid-February.” Drought conditions further limited the potential crop. The country’s National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) reported that from October 2023 through February 2024, Blenheim (Marlborough’s main town) recorded just 88 millimeters of rain—the lowest total rainfall over that period since 1941. This resulted in small berries and loose clusters, which is great for preventing disease but not so great for filling the tanks, nor the coffers. Small berries also raise the skin-to-juice ratio, which can yield undesirable tannins in white wines. Hand-harvested wines were thus more successful in 2024. There are numerous instances where the extra skin contact caused by machine-harvesting fruit (which represents 98% of all fruit harvested here), led to wines with a hard finish, which seems to be the result of both phenolic edginess from the skins and acidity. Winemakers who perceived that hardness before bottling turned to fining as a tool to mitigate that edginess.

In the lead-up to harvest, cooler-than-average days and cold nights—including a number of frost-fighting nights in the third week of March—meant that the malic acidity in the grapes, which provides a wine with citrus- or green-apple-like acidity, was slow to fall. While producers with multiple vineyards and many hectares of land have less flexibility in picking schedules, the smaller, nimbler producers could take their time thanks to the lack of disease pressure. “You’re normally trying to pick before you lose acidity, but the nights were cool so the acid was not dropping off,” says Richelle Tyney, winemaker at Greywacke. However, Blenheim experienced an extremely sunny summer, and Brix levels continued to rise. As a result, some of Marlborough’s top wines show riper characteristics and more mid-palate richness, with alcohol levels topping 13.5%. The fruit spectrum can be a little more opulent than usual, verging into white stone fruit and ripe tropical notes of mango and passion fruit.

It's good to see fewer wines with sweaty aromas, caused by sulfur-containing compounds called thiols, than in past years. While thiols are essential to Sauvignon Blanc’s signature scents, certain compounds can create unpleasant aromas at high concentrations. Thankfully, such styles are becoming rarer with each passing vintage. Reduction is also less and less common, which can only be a good thing, showing that winemakers are now attuned to the contents of the bottle and how they will react when sealed under a screwcap. What’s more, in 2024, the lower-than-usual yields ensured that Sauvignon Blanc’s green characteristics were less overt, providing intrigue rather than distraction in the wines.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742831814778-IMG_8918.jpg)

_Rugged peaks and piercing blue skies frame Marlborough’s Wairau Valley._

**Nelson**

While the North Island was hogging the headlines for the wrong reasons in the middle of summer 2023, Nelson stayed remarkably dry. In the northwest of the South Island, this small wine region’s most famed fine wine producer is Neudorf, specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Rosie Finn, daughter of Neudorf’s founders and whose job title is Global Neudorf Cheerleader, says, “When we get tropical cyclones, they swing down, and Nelson does often cop it. But this time, the cyclone clipped Auckland and affected the North Island, so we felt very blessed for once. Over harvest, we had clear days and blue skies, and clean fruit.”

**Martinborough**

With fewer whites released early, notably Sauvignon, and a greater focus on barrel-aged Chardonnay, meaning many wines are as yet unbottled, it’s still too early to make a statement on 2024 in Martinborough. Like Marlborough, the season started off a little wet, but the weather cleared up after Christmas, yielding clean, ripe fruit with good acid retention. Only a few producers have released 2024s, while others have a small amount of 2023 Chardonnays and Rieslings that were salvaged after the soggy, cyclone-affected vintage.

**Hawke’s Bay**

This is not Sauvignon Blanc country. Hawke’s Bay, on the North Island, has a temperate maritime climate that lends itself to growing Chardonnay. The 2023s will be the latest release. There are a few noteworthy examples, but it’s a miracle there were any produced. On February 12, 2023, Cyclone Gabrielle made landfall on New Zealand’s shores. Heavy rainfall flooded Hawke’s Bay’s plains, leaving them covered in silt that cost $228 million NZD ($132 million USD) to clear. Numerous vineyards were swept away, flooded or covered in silt. Some producers were unable to reach their vineyards due to landslides that closed roads. And yet, there are still some 2023 Chardonnays flowing onto the market. Those who could salvage the fruit picked selectively and quickly with lower ripeness levels, akin to Chardonnay for sparkling wine. Unsurprisingly, the range of wines is far smaller, with single vineyard fruit generally being declassified. Chardonnay specialist Tony Bish sought out fruit from friends in Marlborough to bolster his normally 100% Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Fat & Sassy, with some growers even donating the fruit at no cost. In terms of fine wine, 2023 is probably a vintage to miss.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742831899781-IMG_8894.jpg)

_Lush vineyards contrast the brown hills of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys._

### Central Otago

Pinot Noir dominates the landscape in Central Otago, but the four most planted whites in the world’s most southerly wine region are Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. A small selection of 2023s and 2024s show clarity, precision and concentration. The 2023 season benefited from warm and dry conditions with some much-needed rain at the end of February, leading to higher yields, early harvests and some frost-fighting right at the finish. There were more challenging events ahead of the 2024 vintage, including a late frost in October 2023, a hailstorm in early February 2024, and more frosts in March 2024. Inevitably, these events affected yields. Grasshopper Rock reports a cool and dry, albeit sunny, run-in to harvest: “March was surprisingly cold. Growing degree days were 29% below average, which set the season up for a cool finish. Frost alarms went off on six days when temperatures dropped below 0°C [32°F] in the vines. However, a period of clear days with no rain progressed ripening faster than expected.”

**A Final Word**

While New Zealand, like the Sancerrois, should never give up on Sauvignon, the country does not need to focus on Sauvignon Blanc alone. There are plenty of other varieties that can and should enjoy an affinity with New Zealand’s dirt while remembering to thank the land, sky and water for what it has given them: fruit purity, luminosity and brightness. Future thinking is already here as producers and winegrowers wonder “How can we pass the land to the next generation in good condition while managing the increasingly unpredictable climate?” But that’s only a section of the wine community; there are others with their eyes solely on profit who are leaching their land of life to make low-value wine. Ultimately, wine is all about the people: the people who make it, the people who sell it and the people who drink it. It’s up to the individual to decide what sort of winemaker, wine retailer and wine drinker they want to be, but we all have a responsibility to make better choices.

_I tasted the wines for this report at a number of events in the UK, on a two-week trip to New Zealand and at home in England._  
  

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Kumeu River: The Kiwi Dream](https://vinous.com/articles/kumeu-river-the-kiwi-dream-sep-2024), Rebecca Gibb, MW, September 2024

[New Zealand’s Latest Red Releases: Growing Up](https://vinous.com/articles/new-zealand-s-latest-red-releases-growing-up-may-2024), Rebecca Gibb, MW, May 2024

[2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage](https://vinous.com/articles/2023-new-zealand-whites-the-cyclone-vintage-apr-2024), Rebecca Gibb, MW, April 2024

[All Change: New Zealand Reds](https://vinous.com/articles/all-change-new-zealand-reds-apr-2023), Rebecca Gibb, MW, April 2023

[New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide](https://vinous.com/articles/new-zealand-whites-the-great-divide-apr-2023), Rebecca Gibb, MW, April 2023



New Zealand Whites: Never Gonna Give You Up

New Zealand Whites: Never Gonna Give You Up (Mar 2025)

### Remembering Don Bryant

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 21, 2025

The wine world lost a visionary when Donald L. Bryant Jr. passed away on March 1 at age 82 from natural causes. Bryant was a force to be reckoned with, someone who knew exactly what he wanted to achieve and a man of action who pursued his vision with extraordinary drive.

Don Bryant was born in Illinois, attended Denison University in Ohio and earned a law degree from Washington University in St. Louis, graduating in 1967. Shortly thereafter, he founded an asset management company in St. Louis and went on to build a significant business that pioneered a number of financial instruments that are now quite common.

By the late 1980s, Bryant had built the resources to pursue two other passions that would define much of his life’s work: art and wine. In his 50s, Bryant immersed himself in art history and began assembling a collection of artwork from reference-point artists. A major player in the fine arts, Bryant served as a trustee at numerous major institutions in New York, London and his hometown of St. Louis, Missouri. He supported the arts and education through philanthropic endeavors at several educational institutions in St. Louis.

Bryant loved wine, as evidenced by his personal collection of the great wines of the world, which he studied with meticulous attention. In 1988, Bryant purchased his striking property above Lake Hennessey in what is commonly referred to as Pritchard Hill. He replanted the site with Cabernet Sauvignon and employed modern viticultural practices. The first few vintages at Bryant Estate were rough, but by the mid-1990s, the wines were magnificent, propelling Bryant Estate into a vaunted position as one of Napa Valley’s first “cult” wineries. The greatness of the 1997 vintage was recognized at the time. Critic Stephen Tanzer compared the 1997 Bryant Family Cabernet to “a '47 Pomerol” and described it as “a monument in the making.” The 1997 wine was instrumental in charting the course for Napa Valley in the years that followed. Based on my recent tastings, wines from that era of dramatic change and innovation remain compelling to this day. They must have really been something when they were first released.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742571550073-Vinous_Don+Bryant+Obituary.png)

I first met Don Bryant around 2011. At the time, I was just beginning my career of reviewing Napa Valley wines professionally. I admit I was a bit nervous. Bryant had a reputation for being difficult. His well-publicized feud with Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer some years prior painted the picture of an extremely demanding proprietor. I had seen that before in other parts of the world, so it did not faze me all that much. Bryant had since been through a few well-known winemakers, which added to his mystique.

I found Don Bryant straightforward and down to earth. He truly loved his vineyard. How could he not? Its spectacular location provides stunning views of the surrounding areas. The site was clearly capable of yielding wines of true distinction. Bryant possessed formidable wealth and highly cultured tastes yet remained relatable and refreshingly candid, always with a wry sense of humor on display. His precise, pointed questions were evidence of a strong intellect that had no doubt driven his success. That friendly, engaging persona was not just an act put on for me, a critic reviewing his wines. Bryant was active in supporting his communities. “When I started my winery, Don gave me his entire mailing list and wished me luck,” a fellow vintner told me recently. I don’t think I need to explain what an exceptionally rare act of class and generosity that is in the ultra-competitive world of high-end California wine.

In the years that followed, I saw Bryant at the winery and around town from time to time, always with his wife, Bettina Sulser Bryant, at his side during a time when she brought increasing stability and consistency to the family winery. Don Bryant’s noticeable decline to Alzheimer’s disease was a reminder of how fragile life can be. It also reinforced my own personal view that time, health and family are the most precious assets of all, whereas money and material objects can come and go.

I will cherish the visits I had with Don Bryant when he was still fully vibrant, the advice he gave me, and the many jokes that peppered our conversations.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

Remembering Don Bryant

Remembering Don Bryant (Mar 2025)

### Behind the Red Curtain: Penfolds Special Bins from the Vault

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | MARCH 20, 2025

Penfolds is a venerable name in Australian wine and a national icon. It is the country’s equivalent of Château Lafite-Rothschild and Vega Sicilia. For admirers of the style, Penfolds Grange stands alongside the First Growth Bordeaux on which it was originally modelled. From the outside, Penfolds is not a winery that prides itself on innovation. The style of its key red wines is largely set in stone, with metronomic winemaking that reliably provides comfort to many fans. Yet when these wines first emerged, many were, in fact, revolutionary. Pioneering winemaker Max Schubert’s use of 100% new American oak and partial barrel-fermentation for early vintages of Grange was trailblazing, wholly rejected by Penfolds management and an array of leading experts at the time. Their initial reaction is best summed up by an unnamed taster: “_Schubert, I congratulate you. A very good dry port, which no one in their right mind will buy, let alone drink_.” This dynamism and tension is not necessarily a bad thing in any business, helping to break down barriers with an eye toward potentially exciting results in the future, but it can certainly present a difficult path for winemakers to navigate. After initial feedback, Grange was almost relegated to the dustbin of history, yet it just managed to survive.

From the very earliest days, when the company was still family-owned, Penfolds often pushed the envelope into new regions and styles. When Coonawarra began showing promise as a winegrowing region in the 1950s, Penfolds was one of the leaders to stake its claim on prime sites, many of which are still in company hands to this day. Changes in ownership over the years did rein that back, but recent times have seen a roaring return, with current projects in Champagne, California and China illustrating a winery that is on the move and not content to sit back and smell the roses. As an aside, the white Grange project and the eventual development of the Yattarna Chardonnay, driven by Chief Winemaker John Duval in the early to mid-nineties, was also groundbreaking. This was arguably one of the key waypoints for Australian Chardonnay when quality began its move into the stratosphere. Penfolds’ innovations in the production of South Australian Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, blends thereof and, more recently, Chardonnay have done much to redefine Australian wine styles. Plenty of winemakers still follow Penfolds’ lead, albeit occasionally begrudgingly.

Behind this innovative streak has been a plethora of experimental wine trials, many of which were never designed for commercial release. These trials were aimed at internal benchmarking and for use at wine shows to test broader appeal with small batches and minimal risk. This was a common strategy for many wineries at the time, during what were embryonic years for the industry. Penfolds Grange and Bin 707 began their lives as trial wines before graduating into regular releases. Up until the 1980s, these wine trials remained completely behind closed doors until the decision was made to start releasing limited stocks, many of which were shared amongst Penfolds’ family and friends.

Since the 1940s, each Penfolds Chief Winemaker has played their part in building the brand while probing opportunities, from Max Schubert’s pioneering of Grange and Coonawarra as a fine wine region to Peter Gago’s legacy, which is still being written. While every winery has its trial wines, most choose to keep them locked away from the prying eyes of wine writers and the general public. Penfolds’ unique mindset illustrates a confidence in their wines, sharing a part of their winemaking journey that is often hidden from view. These bottlings provide fascinating insights as to historic wines and mindsets at various times over the last 75 years. Originally described as experimental bottlings, these wines are now known as Penfolds Special Bins.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742316232428-Vinous_Penfolds+Cover.jpg)

Very occasionally, Penfolds releases a new Special Bin, or older wines are viewed at a tasting or from a serious collector’s cellar, although these are rare occurrences. The last release of a Special Bin was the Bin 111A Clare/ Barossa Valley Shiraz blend, which hit the market in 2019, and before that, the 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet-Shiraz (released in 2011), illustrating the rarity of these wines.

Late last year, Penfolds opened the vault for a once-in-a-lifetime tasting of red wine Special Bins and other historic wines for the next upcoming edition of “The Rewards of Patience” (Penfolds’ exhaustive reference guide), reaching back over seven decades deep into the genesis of Australian fine wine. My Vinous predecessor, Josh Raynolds, took part in a similar tasting for the last edition of the guide.

This tasting in its entirety displayed the evolution of Penfolds and its continuing reliance on key vineyards that still underpin its leading labels. The pattern of changing vineyard ownership is also indelibly inked in the company’s wines. Acres of vines that once surrounded Penfolds’ home in Magill (now in the suburbs of Adelaide) were a key vineyard source for many years. However, over time, the creeping suburbs of Adelaide and urbanization reduced the vineyard’s footprint to the postage-stamp-sized Magill Estate. The odd aged trial wine showcases the region’s potential, which is now largely lost under housing.

A key initial source of material for Special Bins has been the Kalimna Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, planted as bush vines in 1888, reputedly the oldest significant planting for this variety anywhere in the world. In the early days, the Kalimna Vineyard was a large and important source of wine exported to England at the end of the nineteenth century. It totaled over 300 acres in size and was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Mataro and possibly other varieties. Penfolds purchased the vineyard in 1945 and it became an important centerpiece, including as the original home for Bin 28 and Bin 389, wines based on sandy soils in the western Barossa. The Kalimna Vineyard was also the source for experimental bottlings in the Grange program, beginning in 1948. With such a significant history of key wines, the Kalimna Vineyard could easily be considered the spiritual home of Penfolds. The original Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard survives today, although it is dotted with space where older vines have given up the ghost. Kalimna Shiraz has long been at the heart of the Special Bin program, some of which was planted in the nineteenth century. More modern renditions of Special Bins have also supplemented Kalimna Shiraz with fruit from Koonunga Hill and Clare Valley.

Ironically, for a winery so deeply tied to the Barossa, the addition of Coonawarra vineyards to the portfolio and the blending options they provide appears to have spurred Max Schubert’s creative juices. These sites remain a keystone to the Special Bin program. Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was beginning to build some traction in the 1950s but the region remained a remote wine outpost exclusively managed by small family operations. Max Schubert had dreamt of crafting long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Barossa was unfortunately too variable in quality and yield vintage to vintage. Coonawarra local Bill Redman, keen to build Coonawarra’s reputation by bringing larger companies into the fold, managed to convince the Penfold family to invest in Coonawarra, initially with the purchase of Sharam’s Block in 1960. This took place despite Schubert’s initial skepticism due to Coonawarra’s climate, far cooler than Penfolds’ home further north in the Barossa. This was an immense leap of faith for Penfolds to expand into a region far from their spiritual center. The Sharam family was one of the original landholders who purchased land from John Riddoch around the turn of the century. Prime fruit is now regularly harvested off Blocks 5, 10 and 20. Coonawarra’s prime Terra Rossa soils (thin clays coloured by weathered iron oxide over a limestone base) and temperate climate yield classic claret styles that have proved to be a fantastic foil to the richer-toned Kalimna Shiraz.

The Coonawarra move proved particularly fortuitous thanks to the region’s potential to be complimentary as a blending partner for Barossa Shiraz, which was explored with various experimental wines. For example, Penfolds produced a 1962 Bin 60 that had a higher proportion of Kalimna Shiraz than the 1962 Bin 60A, Schubert settling on two-thirds Coonawarra and one-third Kalimna for the Bin 60A that has become an international icon. The Bin 60A was seen as the more successful of the two during internal trialing and was entered in the wine show system, picking up 19 trophies before it was retired. Sadly, the Bin 60, undoubtedly also quite special, never saw the light of day. Despite its success, the 60A was never sold commercially, with reference stocks kept solely to inform future generations of Penfolds winemakers. The importance of the 1962 Bin 60A cannot be overstated, as it was not only one of the first truly outstanding and long-lived Australian wines, but it also paved the way for the unique Australian red wine style.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742318880661-Vinous_Penfolds+1953.jpg)

The early Special Bins crafted by Max Schubert were no doubt important in the development of Grange as both a concept and a wine, starting with the almost mythical 1948 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1948 was produced when Schubert was still keen on Cabernet Sauvignon for his Grange project and was never released commercially. This 1948 Cabernet, less than a single barrel in total production and aged in older oak, was likely one of many data points in the development of the Grange concept. While the 1948 was not included in this tasting, the follow-up 1953 Bin 9 Grange Cabernet Sauvignon made an appearance and did not disappoint. What followed was a walk through key vintages from the 1950s, 1960s, 1980s and 1990s, all rare and historic wines, most (but not all) of which are still in peak condition. While there have been a plethora of experimental bottlings over the years, including from grapes such as Mataro and the Languedoc’s Œillade, what is particularly notable is that the vast majority of the greatest and longest-living wines come from a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The potential quality of these blends, whether from Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, or a combination of the two, is undeniable. Most of all, these wines showcased the early aspirations of a budding wine industry and a quiet confidence in its future.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Breaking the Rules: La Chapelle Grange](https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-breaking-the-rules-la-chapelle-grange-feb-2025), Nicolas Greinacher and Angus Hughson, February 2025

[Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk](https://vinous.com/articles/barossa-2022-run-don-t-walk-aug-2024), Angus Hughson, August 2024

[Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021](https://vinous.com/articles/ironing-out-the-kinks-jim-barry-the-armagh-1985-2021-jun-2024), Angus Hughson, June 2024

[The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia](https://vinous.com/articles/the-yin-and-the-yang-of-western-australia-may-2024), Angus Hughson, May 2024

[Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic](https://vinous.com/articles/victoria-cutting-edge-meets-classic-mar-2024), Angus Hughson, March 2024

[Changing Gears in Barossa](https://vinous.com/articles/changing-gears-in-barossa-jun-2023), Angus Hughson, June 2023



Behind the Red Curtain: Penfolds Special Bins from the Vault

Behind the Red Curtain: Penfolds Special Bins from the Vault (Mar 2025)

### 2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 19, 2025

I admit I approached the 2022s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with some trepidation. Given reports of extreme, record-setting warm and dry weather, I feared a repeat of 2020, a year in which the wines were unusually dark and concentrated. Those concerns were quickly allayed as soon as I started tasting the 2022s. The wines are absolutely brilliant. Elegant and poised, the 2022s are not only captivating, but they also offer that most elusive of all qualities in fine wine: the ability to convey the essence of site.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742314196451-Vinous_DRC+Range.jpg)

_The range of 2022s, followed by two library wines for additional context_

I tasted the 2022s with Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine at the annual tasting organized by longtime American importer Wilson Daniels, held this year at Le Bernardin. As is the custom, two library vintages were served after the tasting of the new vintage for further context. I have included notes on those bottles and a pair of additional wines I tasted recently. My only quibble with the tasting is that the wines were served too warm. Pre-pouring delicate wines in a warm dining room is a recipe for trouble. This is a mistake that quite simply can’t happen at this level. I apologize for being so direct, but these wines deserved better care.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742315445347-Vinous_Tasting+the+2022s+from+barrel.jpg)

_Tasting the 2022s from barrel, November 2023_

**The 2022 Growing Season**

After severe frost in 2021, vines unleashed their stored energy in 2022, presaging a large crop, a sort of rebirth for the vine that is quite common after shock events. Generous yields would turn out to be one of the blessings of 2022. Cold morning temperatures in April did not threaten the crop. Heat and drought later in the month led to an early budbreak. That theme continued through May. Benign conditions resulted in a fast and even flowering that was completed by the end of the month. There was a bit of rain in May, then a more important episode towards the end of June. July and August were extremely hot and dry, pushing some vineyards into hydric stress. Rain in mid-August helped the vines reestablish a measure of balance. Harvest began on August 30 with the Corton and wrapped up on September 13 with the last of the Echézeaux and Corton-Charlemagne. In the cellar, fruit was healthy and required minimal sorting, while juice yields were abundant. Yields came in around 40 hectoliters per hectare, a veritable bounty by present-day standards in Burgundy. Barrels stacked three high in the cellar is an exceptionally rare sight at the domaine, but it happened with the 2022s.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742314142342-Vinous_DRC+Standouts.jpg)

_Romanée St. Vivant and Richebourg are among the standouts in the collection of 2022s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti._

**The Proof is in the Glass**

Cutting to the chase, 2022 is a fabulous vintage for the domaine. Readers who have access to these wines will not want to miss them. With generous yields on the vine and benign weather, intense heat and drought proved to be quite manageable. In tasting, the 2022s are vivid and red in the glass, a stark contrast to the dark, imposing 2020s. Brisk acids and modest alcohols around 13% help exalt the personality of each site. Quite incredibly, the wines show no signs of a year that was the hottest on record. Once again, the Romanée St. Vivant is my personal favorite, as it encompasses all the qualities I seek in Burgundy, namely elegance, understatement and expression of place, but the reality is that all the wines are exceptional.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/future-memories-drc-2022-in-bottle-feb-2025), Neal Martin, February 2025

[2023 Burgundy Supplement](https://vinous.com/articles/2023-burgundy-supplement-feb-2025), Antonio Galloni, February 2025

[The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023](https://vinousmedia.us7.list-manage.com/track/click?u=1b0468fdd47cc4ecb9d11de24&id=4e2c937060&e=87e391cba0), Neal Martin, January 2025

[Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-de-la-romanee-conti-a-survey-of-the-2021s-mar-2024), Antonio Galloni, March 2024

[Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/nature-rules-nature-s-rules-drc-2021-in-bottle-feb-2024), Neal Martin, February 2024

[Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-de-la-romanee-conti-2020-the-new-burgundy-mar-2023), Antonio Galloni, March 2023

[Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/plus-ca-change-drc-2020-in-bottle-feb-2023), Neal Martin, February 2023



2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

### The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 18, 2025

To passengers on the 9:35 to Clapham Junction, I look like any other commuter engrossed in a hardback. They have no idea that my mind has been spirited away to an alternate reality created by Japan’s best-selling author, Haruki Murakami. My life has been signposted by his books since the mid-nineties, when I picked up a copy of “The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle” in the famous Kinokuniya bookstore. I was hooked. I devoured every one of Murakami’s novels and eagerly awaited his next. Occasionally, I plant Murakami Easter eggs into my prose, a little homage. Having lived in Japan—its culture and blood intertwined with my own—his stories and characters have always resonated. Unlike Tolkien or Pratchett, Murakami’s fantasies exist just one shift away from reality, what has been dubbed _magical realism_. His protagonists, often male, lonely and drifting, traverse the liminal space between two worlds. You just have to open a particular door or chance upon a disused well to find yourself in a parallel universe.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742221336008-Vinous_tokaji+bottles.JPG)

An hour later, swirling a Tokaji Essencia from Royal Tokaji, I realise that this is a “Murakami wine.”

Technically, it _is_ wine…but is it _really_?

Essencia’s sweetness should theoretically overwhelm the senses. Case in point, on this day, my liver contends with 5,049 g/L residual sugar by lunchtime. This sucrose tsunami is dispersed between just nine bottles, from the inaugural 1993 to newly released 2017, averaging around 560 g/L per wine. Vin de paille, Sauternes and Trockenbeerenauslese must banish notions of sweetness in Essencia’s presence. Defying rationality, its contrapuntal acidity prevents cloyingness and imparts a scintilla of bitterness. Unlike wine in the normal world, Essencia is not ideal if the goal is intoxication. Hovering around a meager 2% alcohol, you’d have to imbibe one of the 18 magnums produced by Royal Tokaji, and I cannot guarantee your survival if you attempt the vinous equivalent of BASE jumping. Furthermore, instead of a regular glass, Essencia’s unctuousness means it is preferably drunk with a glass spoon, not unlike medicine. Perhaps that is a more accurate description? Finally, like many Murakami novels, time moves at a different pace apropos Essencia, if at all. It is not indestructible like Madeira. There’s no protective jacket of oxidation. But akin to many sweet wines, there are yawning gaps between clocks’ ticks.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742221362662-Vinous_tokaji+kovacs.JPG)

_Translynvanian-born Head Winemaker Zoltán Kovács joined the company in 2017._

This vertical tasting is the first and probably the last of its kind, since just a handful of the first releases remain. Only 400 bottles of 1993 Essencia were ever produced. Sadly, Hugh Johnson, who co-founded Royal Tokaji with Peter Vinding-Diers, was unable to attend the tasting. But winemaker _Zoltán Kovács_ flew over and explained that during the first years, Johnson and his team were figuring things out against the backdrop of a country rebuilding itself after the dissolution of the Soviet Bloc. Despite its long history and the rollcall of Tokaji aficionados from Catherine the Great to Napoleon III via Beethoven, Johnson et. al were in uncharted territory. Some considered Johnson’s venture mad, a quick way of losing a fortune. Nobody knew if climatic conditions would make a 6-Puttonyos possible, and both the 1991 and 1992 suggested it was indeed too inclement. When the 1993 season gifted fruit with sugar ripeness levels to achieve 5- or 6-Puttonyos, Johnson’s dream of producing Essencia became a reality.

The manner in which Essencia is created also comes from a parallel universe. The dehydrated Aszú berries that Kovács suggested ideally lose around 80% of their weight over three to six weeks then rest in racks for years…Drip, drip, drip of insanely concentrated free-run juice is collected intermittently and “matured” into glass demijohns. It’s like an artist who makes one tiny brushstroke, a composer pencilling one more note on a stave per day. The extraordinary high sugar levels impede alcoholic fermentation so that alcohol levels accrete imperceptibly. One takeaway from this tasting is that on the one occasion that alcohol _did_ reach the dizzying height of 4.2%, it detracted from the Essencia, denuding it of character and complexity.

With respect to the 2017, the unprecedented generosity of Aszú berries allowed experimentation with used barrels. “The 2017 was a very generous vintage when producers could fill their cellar with Aszú wines,” Kovacs explains. “We bought in Aszú berries from other producers to supplement our own, so that we had 25 lots. Then, step-by-step, we selected a few to blend for the Essencia. We also made trials in used 500-liter barrels to see what it might contribute, and when the final blend was made, we decided to use these for one-third of the production. They lent richness and balance, the tannins and polyphenols.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742221404339-Vinous_tokaji+spoons.JPG)

_Upon request, the Essencias could be tasted either from glass or spoon. The wines’ unctuosity meant that it was actually more practical and enjoyable to use the latter._

I am curious about the marked difference in colour between the oldest three vintages— 1993, 1999 and 2000—compared to subsequent releases. There is no gradual colour degradation as you would expect. These three Essencias were conspicuously darker in hue. What explains this? Possibly a change in grape varieties that was partly governed by contracted fruit, a higher proportion of Zéta? Kovács also suggests a longer maceration time. Alas, records were not kept, so we will never know for sure. Recent vintages will naturally turn the same deeper colour in time, however, perhaps they will take longer to do so.

The tasting takes around an hour and a half. I have to hot-leg it early, due to rendezvous with a bunch of Burgundies. I take the train from Wandsworth Town rather than the cab, and waiting on the platform, I hear Dave Brubeck playing in a car somewhere nearby. I board the train and open my Murakami novel, “The City And Its Uncertain Walls.” One sentence reads: the tips of two different worlds were overlapping, ever so slightly.

The stray black cat sitting opposite tells me that the phrase is apposite with respect to my comparison of Essencia and regular wine.

I nod my approval.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Royal Tokaji Company: 2018 New Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/royal-tokaji-company-2018-new-releases-oct-2024), Neal Martin, October 2024

[Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/disznoko-tokaji-latest-releases-apr-2024), Neal Martin, April 2024

[Royal Tokaji: 2017 Latest Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/royal-tokaji-2017-latest-releases-sep-2021), Neal Martin, September 2021

[Royal Tokaji Co. & Disznókő - Latest Releases](https://www.vinous.com/articles/royal-tokaji-co-disznoko-latest-releases-aug-2020), Neal Martin, August 2020

[Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013](https://vinous.com/articles/mad-idea-royal-tokaji-1990-2013-jul-2019), Neal Martin, July 2019



The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017

The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017 (Mar 2025)

### Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 13, 2025

Focusing on all of Tuscany in one report is almost impossible without sacrificing the details that make it unique. Unlike some Italian regions, Tuscany cannot be adequately summarized with a single vintage report and generalized terroir assessment. It requires a more nuanced approach.

However, Tuscany is undoubtedly worth the effort. Hunting for some of the greatest Sangiovese-based wines outside the big three—Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano—can be extremely rewarding. Moreover, there’s a long list of international varieties that have found an unlikely home, thriving throughout Tuscany’s nooks and crannies. It’s extremely telling that of the nearly 200 wines in this report, 84 are labeled as IGT Toscana, produced outside of either DOC or DOCG rules or boundaries. Many of these wines originate from terroirs that have yet to be fully explored. For instance, the high-elevation slopes of Mount Amiata are a hot spot for new projects. Producers from the surrounding regions of Montalcino and Montecucco eagerly look to this location for future development.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741704565679-Vinous_Val+d%27Orcia+looking+toward+the+town+of+Montalcino.jpg)

_Val d'Orcia, looking toward the town of Montalcino_

There are so many diverse terroirs and styles to consider. Sometimes, it’s a new upstart or young aspiring winemaker who’s found a field of old vines to tend. Sometimes, it’s a family that has farmed their land for generations but only recently decided to become serious about their marketing and expanding to a broader audience. These wines can often present exceptional value or give rise to the next big cult producer who hasn’t yet gained the recognition they deserve. Valdarno di Sopra, Val di Chiana, Pisa and Val d’Orcia all have outstanding winemakers who are trailblazing in their regions. Then, of course, there’s Cortona, Montecucco and Carmignano, where the size of the DOC or DOCG prevents these producers from gaining the recognition they deserve. Carmignano has only 13 wineries in the Consorzio, and I typically only see three of its producers in international markets. Does that mean the rest of them aren’t worth our attention? Of course not. The same can be said for Montecucco. Not every region has the funds or organization to push its name out into the world, so if a wine lover doesn’t happen to visit the area or find the wines on a local list while visiting Tuscany, how will they ever know what they are missing?

That’s why I consider this one of the year's most important reports. While this may not be a deep dive into a specific terroir or an in-depth view of a particular vintage, it is a collection of exceptional wines that deserve attention.

**New Developments in Montecucco**

In previous reports, I’ve gone into detail regarding Montecucco’s terroir. I urge readers to reference my article [Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond](https://vinous.com/articles/touring-tuscany-carmignano-montecucco-and-beyond-feb-2023) for an in-depth discussion on the topic. Montecucco is a fascinating region, yet it is far too diverse to pigeonhole. The most significant factor in its diversity is its sheer size and the drastic changes in elevations and soils as its borders stretch from the Tuscan coast up to the slopes of Mount Amiata. With that said, many winemakers from surrounding regions (Montalcino being the closest, as it borders Montecucco to the north and east) have planted stakes here. However, for the most part, wineries outside of Montecucco with vineyards within Montecucco are forced to bottle their wines as IGT Toscana. The reason for this lies in the rules of the DOC, which prevent any winemaker without a winery located within the area from using Montecucco on their label. A rare example is Sassetti Livio, known as Sassetti Livio Pertimali in Montalcino, a winery that makes Montecucco within the DOC, as they purchased vineyards in the region _and_ a facility. With this in mind, Il Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco has proposed removing this stipulation from the region's governing DOC and DOCG rules. This would be a significant boon to the region and would allow a large number of outside winemakers, often with prestigious names in other areas, to begin producing a Montecucco Rosso or Montecucco Sangiovese with the DOC or DOCG stated on the label.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741704442034-Vinous_The+Vineyards+of+Montecucco+looking+out+toward+the+Tuscan+coast.jpg)

_The vineyards of Montecucco_

Efforts are also underway in Montecucco to extend the region's boundaries beyond the current 600-meter elevation limit. This change would allow winemakers to plant higher up on the slopes of Mount Amiata. As I mentioned before, this location is a hotbed of activity where many winemakers throughout the southeast of Tuscany are looking to experiment. One of the first big names to make a mark on Mount Amiata is Sebastian Nasello, winemaker for Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino. Nasello created the Bakkanali brand (included in the following notes) for wines that he makes from elevations between 600 and 800 meters. The conditions at these heights offset the effects of the warming trends felt throughout southern Tuscany. Soils on the higher slopes are notably complex, including limestone, Flysh marls and volcanic sands. This terroir is not only perfect for Sangiovese, but white varieties could thrive here as well. Allowing Montecucco wineries to plant higher on the slopes of Mount Amiata would create an entirely new category of wines built on minerality, tension and finesse.

Unfortunately, these changes don’t fix one of the main issues with Montecucco, which is the extreme variation in styles and quality throughout the region. It would be beneficial for the governing bodies to take a closer look at the rules governing vineyard practices, such as yields and vine age, in order to raise the bar across the region. Sadly, without changes to these regulations, it remains logical to buy wines based on the producer's name rather than Montecucco's reputation alone.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741704681771-Vinous_Fog+burning+off+through+the+low+lands+of+Carmignano.jpg)

_Fog burning off through the lowlands of Carmignano_

### Carmignano Stays the Course

Little has changed in the year since I last touched on Carmignano, but this is a situation where no news is good news. This report focuses on 2023 Barco Reale di Carmignano (the category where winemakers create entry-level wines to introduce consumers to their brands), primarily 2021 and some 2022 Carmignano (the wineries’ flagship wines) and a smattering of 2019 and 2020 Riservas. I also included three mini-verticals, one from Piaggia and two from Tenuta di Capezzana, which illustrate Carmignano’s incredible aging potential.

The vertical tastings and recent releases clearly demonstrate that the growing seasons in Carmignano differ significantly from most of Tuscany. Even Chianti Classico, located just south of Carmignano, has an entirely different terroir. Elevations here start surprisingly low, ranging from 53 to 400 meters, yet still, Carmignano has a hilly terrain with steep inclines and varied exposures. The region is also particularly secluded, bordered by Monte Albano on the west (which blocks warming air currents from the Tyrrhenian Sea) and the Apennines to the east. This creates a bowl-shaped valley with northern and southern influences. The 2023 vintage is a perfect example of how different Carmignano is from its neighbors, as Carmignano didn’t suffer the losses from Peronospora (downy mildew) that other nearby regions did. Instead, winemakers here enjoyed a warm season with balanced precipitation. The same can be said for 2022, a warm and dry year that yielded wines of incredible balance.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741704798243-Vinous_The+Hills+of+Carmignano.jpg)

_The hills of Carmignano_

Granted, Carmignano does have the advantage of blending. Sangiovese is a very finicky grape, and while other parts of Tuscany strive toward higher percentages of the variety, Carmignano happily remains as it has been for decades, with an allowance for up to 30% of other red varieties in the mix. The most notable is Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that may be considered “international” but has a history in the region dating back to the 16th century. Merlot is another favorite of Carmignano producers. Some of the varietal Merlots I tasted for this report are a testament to Merlot’s potential here. The power of blending should not be underestimated, as it allows winemakers to create the best possible wine from the given vintage. Compare this to a region like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where, for example, a larger addition of Mouvèdre can offset a poor year for Grenache.

Readers will find a lot to like in the new releases from Carmignano.. This region is one of the hidden gems of Tuscany, and too few of these wines make it into the U.S. market. The wines of Carmignano also provide tremendous value, especially for lovers of Super Tuscans. As for the current vintages, the 2019s are geared for a long evolution; expect to cellar them for upwards of five to ten years. The 2020s and 2021s show more elegance, with the 2021s edging out the 2020s from the perspective of sheer depth. The 2022s are still relatively young yet balanced, possessing a warm-vintage feel but with no hints of being overripe or cloying. Most of the 2022s are already showing beautifully. As for 2023, I’ll reserve judgment of the more important wines, but I love their blend of minerality and juiciness. I tasted several 2023s from barrel at Piaggia, which left me very excited for what lies ahead.

_I tasted the wines in the article in Tuscany in fall 2024 and in follow-up tastings in our New York City offices._  
  

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

**You Might Also Enjoy**

[Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: An Unstoppable Force](https://vinous.com/articles/vino-nobile-di-montepulciano-an-unstoppable-force-feb-2025), Eric Guido, February 2025

[Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled Diversity](https://vinous.com/articles/carmignano-montecucco-and-tuscany-s-unrivaled-diversity-mar-2024), Eric Guido, March 2024

[Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano](https://vinous.com/articles/terroir-and-determination-vino-nobile-di-montepulciano-feb-2023), Eric Guido, February 2023

[Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond](https://vinous.com/articles/touring-tuscany-carmignano-montecucco-and-beyond-feb-2023), Eric Guido, February 2023

[Montepulciano, Carmignano and Montecucco: New Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/montepulciano-carmignano-and-montecucco-new-releases-dec-2021), Eric Guido, December 2021



Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond

Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Mar 2025)

Rías Baixas & Ribeiro: The Beating Heart of White Wine in Galicia

Rías Baixas & Ribeiro: The Beating Heart of White Wine in Galicia (Mar 2025)

2023 Garage Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon Old-Vine Revival

2022 Santadi Cannonau di Sardegna Noras

2021 César Márquez Parajes

2022 Camillo Montori Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

2024 Joyce Winery Albariño

2024 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough

2023 Pieropan Soave Classico

2022 Cantalupo Colline Novaresi Agamium

2023 Cantina Mesa Carignano del Sulcis Buio

2023 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Dry

2023 Ladera de las Bragas Tempranillo

2023 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture Gricos

2022 Trivento Malbec Golden Reserve

2023 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba

2023 Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc

2023 Valravn Chardonnay (Sonoma County)

2023 Zuccardi Valle de Uco Cabernet Franc Q

2023 Turley Zinfandel Juvenile

2023 Batiso Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

2022 Substance Red Blend Rb 

2022 Luli Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands)

2022 Capraia Chianti Classico

2022 Vall Llach Embruix

2023 Alta Heights Pinot Noir California Alpine Wine

2022 Jean Leon Petit Verdot - Merlot 3055

### [Henry’s End](https://www.henrysend.com/)

72 Henry Street

Brooklyn, NY 11201

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 25, 2025

**The Food:**

New Orleans turtle soup

Goose liver mousse with pistachios and honey

Squab potstickers with chilli garlic sauce

Pappardelle with Buffalo oxtail ragu

Stuffed quail with cornbread and sausage stuffing

Kangaroo with gratin dauphinois and Burgundy jus

Elk chops with mushroom bread pudding

**The Wines:**

1997 Nicolas Joly Savennières Clos de la Coulée de Serrant – 90

1978 Burgess Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – 89

1961 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbaresco – 91

1980 L’Eglise-Clinet – NR

2005 Domaine Georges Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru – 93

2002 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir West Block – 92

1999 d’Arenberg Winery The Ironstone Pressings – 92

1927 Pereira d’Oliveira Bastardo Madeira – 94

_Neighbourhood institution_. That phrase can be interpreted in two ways. On the one hand, it implies that over time, a restaurant became part of the local fixture and fittings. Its heyday might be long gone, yet there continues to be a steady stream of regulars that covet familiarity, whose taste buds are indifferent towards quality. The epitome is an Italian bistro near my parents’ home that has existed in the same place, serving the same clichéd dishes and cheap Chianti from the local cash and carry since time immemorial. The irony is that this bistro has outlived every other restaurant within a 10-mile radius.

On the other hand, _neighbourhood institution_ connotes a restaurant where high standards and passionate, talented chefs with attention to detail have sustained it through the years, a restaurant that stands as a beacon of quality. A restaurant that becomes a constant in a turbulent world. It is irreplicable and irreplaceable. Now, I never dined at Henry’s End when it opened in 1973 because (a) I was two years old and (b) I lived in Leigh-on-Sea, not Brooklyn. Nevertheless, invited by friends preceding this year’s _Vinous Icons_ event in New York, my tastebuds immediately confirmed that Henry’s End falls into the latter category of neighbourhood institutions. In other words, it might have opened over half a century ago, but standards remain high and people still love it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745514896448-mark+lahm_VT.JPG)

_Proprietor Mark Lahm posing in front of the neon signage above the stairs._

The name Henry’s End comes from the restaurant’s location up until 2019, when it sat two blocks north of Henry Street, ergo, at the “end” of Henry. Bustling on a Wednesday night, the restaurant brims with history, character and above all, delicious food. “I have worked here since 1980, starting as a dishwasher, then server, manager, cook and chef,” Co-owner Mark Lahm told me. “In 1984, I enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, and when I graduated in 1986, I purchased the restaurant from the previous owners. Our annual ‘Game Festival’ is now in its 39th year and runs from approximately October to April. It is done in three phases, two months for each phase, with the selections changing for each.”

To be honest, I wasn’t sure that I was in the mood for their Wild Game Festival, however, the quality of the first dishes immediately changed my mind and I was happy to go all-out carnivore. “We have used many different farms over the years,” Lahm explains. “Currently, our major suppliers are The Broken Arrow Ranch, Fossil Farms, d'Artagnan and Cervena.” In this case, I don’t need to analyse every dish, because they are all fairly straightforward. They highlight well-sourced ingredients and a kitchen that knows how to cook them perfectly. What I really appreciate is that despite the bias towards meat, no dish could be described as heavy—no excessive richness or pointless sauces. The United States is a country renowned for portions that could feed a small country, but here the portions are modestly sized, just right for a multi-course meal.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745514928192-turtle+soup_VT.JPG)

_The New Orleans turtle soup is quite charmingly served in a coffee mug._

I must point out the New Orleans turtle soup. It is the first time I’ve eaten this dish, here made with 15 spices. It has real depth of flavour and just the right amount of spicy kick. A small cupful is just enough.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745514979444-goose+liver_VT.jpg)

_The goose liver mousse is topped with pistachios and honey and served with charred bread._

The goose liver mousse is sweet and creamy in texture and needs the accompanying charred bread to offset the richness. I have to resist eating the entire portion and mopping my plate. Next up, the pappardelle with Buffalo oxtail ragu is well cooked but perhaps could benefit from a little more of the nicely seasoned oxtails.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515080429-quail_VT.JPG)

_The stuffed quail was my favourite course of the evening._

The stuffed quail with cornbread and sausage stuffing is my highlight. Delicious and tender, the cornbread lends texture and sweetness, and the stuffing adds strong herbal flavours that marry perfectly with the quail.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515143184-kangaroo_VT.JPG)

_Kangaroo made for an unusual but exquisite main course._

The kangaroo was imported from Australia (I did ask whether they are reared in the US—apparently not) and served with gratin dauphinois and Burgundy jus. This is tender and moist, and the jus has a light acidity that helps the dish maintain balance. I prefer this to the elk chops, which are slightly tough, especially following the kangaroo.

The wine list… I mean, you don’t see ‘em like that anymore. Many of the choice items come from the proprietor, who owns a vast personal cellar and negotiates favourable rates from private sources. The list is particularly strong in mature vintages from California, Bordeaux and Italy, especially esoteric vintages that you don’t typically see. This is a list for the wine-lover, not the label-hunter, and to cap it all off, most are sold at prices that would be three or four times as much elsewhere, if listed at all.

We actually begin with a very old sherry. You would expect sherry at the end of the meal, but its dagger-like acidity cleanses the palate. Apologies, but I did not write down the exact name, though it was extremely old.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515252763-burgess_VT.JPG)

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515272078-rochioli_VT.jpg)

The **1997 Savennières Clos de la Coulée de Serrant** from **Nicolas Joly** is a burnished golden hue. The nose is a little smudged, leaning more towards the richer side of Savennières with dried honey, candlewax and lanolin. The palate has fine weight and just a very slight touch of oxidation, though it complements this wine. With just a touch of desiccated orange peel and some resinous notes towards the end, this is definitely one of the better mature bottles I have encountered from a wine that, in my experience, has been hit and miss. The **1978 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon** from **Burgess Cellars** is a delight. Fully mature on the nose like many Cabernets from this era, it is a doppelgänger for a Médoc, with _sous-bois_ and light tobacco scents that tinge vestiges of black fruit. The palate does not deliver the complexity of the ’77 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill imbibed the previous evening, though this does retain balance and finesse. It’s perhaps a little simple or rather…unassuming towards the finish, as if it has done its job well and now it’s time to leave. Not one of those earth-shattering old Californians, but decent. The **2002 West Block Pinot Noir** from **J. Rochioli** initially seems a bit garish, perhaps due to its juxtaposition against the ’78 Burgess. However, it just needs 30 minutes to settle. It delivers gorgeous red plum, hoisin, camphor and maraschino cherries that are beautifully defined and pure, generous but not overpowering, distinct from Burgundy or anywhere else. The palate has wonderful balance. It’s full-bodied, yet beneath what after two decades bizarrely feels like puppy fat, one finds a core of fine tannins. Very harmonious, satin-textured and persistent through the finish, this is a sensual and opulent Pinot Noir that reeks of class.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515297035-roumier+2005_VT.jpg)

The **2005 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru** from **Domaine Georges Roumier** proves that this vintage produced some really classy wines whose tannins are finally softening. It boasts exquisite purity on the nose, blossoming with white-tipped strawberry, raspberry, crushed rose petals and wet limestone, polished and sophisticated. The palate is framed by filigree tannins that, if tasted blind, divert you away from this typically structured vintage. There is gentle but insistent grip towards a finish that is imbued with the grip you expect from a Morey rather than a Chambolle. This is beginning to take flight. We skip a **1980 L’Eglise-Clinet** as the bottle is oxidised. Shame, as it is one of the very few vintages that I’ve never tasted, and I doubt there is one at the château.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1745515322527-barbaresco_VT.jpg)

The **1961 Barbaresco** from **Giuseppe Mascarello** is a rare old bird. It has a pale colour, to the point that you would think it’s a Rosé. The nose has a disarming citric quality, unerringly fresh, though I could never describe it as complex. The palate is similar to the aromatics: very fresh and precise, arguably missing grip and body that must have slipped away with time (indeed, this bottle shed an extraordinary amount of sediment). This is more a curiosity now, but a drinkable curiosity. The **1999 Ironstone Pressings** from **d’Arenberg** is a timely reminder of how well these Aussie wines have aged. This GSM exudes vigour and purity on the nose, showing black plum mixed with subtle cough candy and lavender. It is very controlled with ample refinement, perhaps “contained” by the passing 26 years. The palate remains fresh and vital, very well balanced with saturated, smooth tannins, polished and graceful towards the finish. A gem hiding in plain sight!

Later that evening, we are treated to a clutch of fortified wines. I will save a couple for Cellar Favourites and mention one. The **1927 Bastardo** from **Pereira d’Oliveira** is nowadays quite difficult to track down, though I have encountered it two or three times in the past. It feels a little more austere than before, with potent, resinous, furniture polish scents. But then the fruit comes out of its slumber, revealing desiccated orange peel, tangerine and light smoky notes. Great vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm grip, tangy and vibrant with that grilled walnut/hazelnut note on the finish. It does not have the same “braggadocio” as previous bottles, but at a century-old, it continues to ooze class.

Henry’s End is a wonderful bistro, a neighbourhood institution in the best sense of the word. Both the food and wine will tempt me to return whenever I find myself back in the Big Apple. Whether it will outlive that Italian spot near my parents’ house is another question entirely, but I can promise that unless you do have a craving for rancid, cheap Chianti, head for the bounty of amazing wines at Henry’s End.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York

Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York (Apr 2025)

[
### Restaurant La Grande Georgette
](https://www.lacasernechanzy.com/fr/restaurant-et-bar.html)

18 Rue Tronsson Ducoudray

51100 Reims, France

Tel: +33 3 26 83 18 18

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 18, 2025

**The Food:**

Artichoke Soup and Black Truffle

Champagne Poultry with Black Truffle, Poulette Sauce

Pear and Black Truffle like Crème Brûlée

**The Wines:**

2019 Savart Brut Nature Le Mont des Chrétiens – 95

1995 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru - ?

2021 Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes – 92

2015 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru – 98

I am always on the hunt for new places to eat in Champagne. Located in the Cazerne Chanzy Hotel & Spa, literally in front of the Reims Cathedral, La Grande Georgette is a welcome addition to my personal list of favorites.

Chef Julien Raphanel offers a small, inventive menu. Raphanel’s cuisine is imaginative and quite contemporary, but also not overdone or heavy in any way. It’s a style I find very appealing within the context of French cooking. Diners can choose from several tasting menu options or order à la carte. On this night, the theme was truffles, truffles and more truffles. It could be worse.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744984582839-Wines_Apr172025.jpg)

La Grande Georgette offers a wine list that is both extensive and fairly priced, an increasing rarity these days. Guests will delight in the selection of grower Champagnes. There is so much I would like to order on this list. We start with **Savart’s 2019 Extra-Brut Mont des Chrétiens** , 100% Chardonnay from Ecueil. I loved the 2019 on release, and I love it today. Rich and expansive, with tremendous textural resonance, the Mont des Chrétiens is positively stellar. The 2019 was vinified and aged in 500-liter barrels, then aged on cork. It is, in my view, a wine that perfectly encapsulates Fred Savart’s style.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744984319474-Artichoke+Soup.jpg)

_Artichoke Soup and Black Truffle._

The Artichoke Soup with Black Truffle is delicious. Rather than a true soup, the dish is best described as having a risotto-like texture in the way the artichokes and black truffles are finely chopped and bound in liquid. It is a wonderfully rich, heady dish ideal for a cold winter evening.

Sadly, the **1995 Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru** is both oxidized and corked. What a shame, especially considering the rightfully lofty expectations that accompany bottles with this pedigree and price tag. We fare much better with **Lamy’s 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes**. There are pricier options on the list, but my preference is to look for value, for wines that overdeliver. The 2021 Tremblots does that and more. Aromatic and beautifully layered, the 2021 is complex but also understated. Moreover, it’s a terrific wine for the dinner table. It brings back fond memories of the days when I used to visit Olivier Lamy at his family’s estate. What a gorgeous wine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744984335222-Main_Apr182025.jpg)

_Champagne Poultry with Black Truffle, Poulette Sauce._

The Champagne Poultry with Black Truffle is another creative take on a classic. Thin slices of black truffle cover the chicken, which is served with a reduction sauce and a brighter, classic Poulette sauce that ties all the ingredients on the plate together effortlessly. The **2015 Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche** is an exceptional match. I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2015 on multiple occasions, including twice on this weekend, as absurd as that sounds (don’t kill me). It has never been anything less than profound. Bright and beautifully focused, with tremendous purity of fruit, the 2015 is so dynamic, so compelling. Is it ready to drink? Not for readers who enjoy fully mature Burgundies. But there is something thrilling about catching a wine like this in its youth, when it is still so vibrant and fresh.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744984361922-Creme+Brulee.jpg)

_Pear and Black Truffle like Crème Brûlée._

Pear and Black Truffle like Crème Brûlée is an intriguing dessert that melds sweet and savory elements. A delicate sugar sphere breaks into the custard, creating a dynamic interplay of flavors and textures.

Overall, this was a fabulous dinner. Food, wine and service were all top-notch. My only regret is not having tried more of the menu. There’s always next time. Last, but not least, the view of the Reims Cathedral on the way out is nothing short of spectacular, especially in the evening.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette,  Champagne, France

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette,  Champagne, France (Apr 2025)

### [Le Petit Sommelier de Paris](https://www.lepetitsommelier-paris.fr/en/)

### 

49 Avenue du Maine

75014 Paris, France

Tel. + 33 (0) 1 43 20 95 66

Phone: 01 43 20 95 66

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 11, 2025

**The Food:**

Salmon Gravlax

Frogs Legs in Persillade

Côte de Boeuf ‘Irish Angus’ for Two

**The Wine:**

2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru - 95

Proprietor Pierre Vila Palleja offers classic bistro fare along with one of the most interesting lists in Paris at Le Petit Sommelier de Paris. The ambiance is busy and quite informal. On this night, the tightly spaced tables are packed with families and locals enjoying beef bourguignon and other staples of the French kitchen.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744384113222-VT_gravlax.jpg)

_Salmon Gravlax._

Le Petit Sommelier de Paris specializes in French comfort food favorites. Escargots, foie gras, steak tartare, ris de veau and many other are all options. A section of the menu is dedicated to special cuts of beef, including two versions of Côte de Boeuf for two. Salmon Gravlax is a fine starter, perhaps not the most adventurous dish, but a nice balance to this decidedly rich menu. Frogs Legs in a classic garlic/parsley Persillade is more typical bistro food. The Côte de Boeuf, served for two, could probably feed at least three people. Seared on the outside and rare on the inside, the steak is cooked and seasoned perfectly for my taste. Some may prefer their meat a little more done. Unfortunately, by the time dessert comes around, we are too full for sweets.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744384134210-VT_frog+legs.jpg)

_Frogs Legs in Persillade._

Don’t let the outside look of the restaurant or the room fool you. Wine is taken very seriously. Palleja, who also writes for La Revue du Vin de France, oversees a vast cellar, only part of which is available at any given time. The list is a bit chaotic in its organization, so readers will have to spend a bit of time poring through its pages. I can’t say there are too many values, but that’s not too different from most places these days.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744384153497-VT_beef.jpg)

_Côte de Boeuf ‘Irish Angus’ for two._

Rousseau’s **2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru** is a splurge. Then again, it’s not the sort of wine one finds on a list every day. Aromatic and wonderfully inviting, the 2010 is super-expressive right out of the gate. This bottle is a bit more delicate than I recall, but I also have not tasted the 2010 in a few years. Spice and floral notes abound in a silky, open-knit Burgundy that is an absolute pleasure to drink. With the steak, it is terrific.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744384201765-VT_Rousseau.jpg)

Readers visiting Paris will want to check out Le Petit Sommelier de Paris. Its location near the Montparnasse train station is quite convenient. The food is very good, and the wine list is excellent. Service is also extremely attentive, even on this busy night. If I had it to do over again, I would probably choose some of the simpler dishes, like the beef bourguignon or steak tartare, and less fancy wines, all of which feel more in line with the spirit of the place. Le Petit Sommelier de Paris is a small restaurant. Reservations are essential.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

Vinous Table: Le Petit Sommelier de Paris, Paris, France

Vinous Table: Le Petit Sommelier de Paris, Paris, France (Apr 2025)

### [Le B.](http://www.lebnyc.com/)

283 W 12th St

New York

NY 10014

United States

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 4, 2025

### The Food:

Oysters Viennese and terrine à la maison

Ravioli de cervelle de veau

Pot au feu of foie gras

Truffled pigeonneau Two Ways

"The Pig's Trotter"

Fromage

Pistachio soufflé, chocolate mint sorbet and madeleines

**The Wine:**

NV Ulysse Collin Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2013 base) - 95

2005 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru - 90

2000 Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Village - 92

2008 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru - 91

The plan was to seek out New York’s cutting-edge cuisine. Whether it was Keens Steakhouse or Henry’s End, established in 1885 and 1973 respectively, these institutions were not going to expand gastronomic horizons, nor should they. Both are great just as they are. My final night in the Big Apple led me to another restaurant unashamedly inspired by the past, the menu a stellar cast of classic French dishes in all their indulgent glory. Le B. does it with chutzpah, flair and class.

On a bitterly cold Saturday night, I walk to the West Village, where Le B. occupies the space where The Beatrice Inn resided until 2020. Stepping inside, I notice the dark navy walls and a chichi cocktail bar on my left-hand side, an extravagant crystal chandelier dangling above, possibly nicked from the “Overlook Hotel” in the twenties. A clever use of light makes the interior feel intimate and highlights the dazzling white tablecloths. I haven’t sat down yet, but I’m already getting retro vibes. I am greeted by Restaurateur and Chef Angie Mar, a Seattle-born Chinese-American and fully paid-up Francophile. Having started her career in real estate, Mar enrolled at the French Culinary Institute, later working in and then buying The Beatrice Inn. Given the nod in the name, I ask her whether there is much overlap between The Beatrice Inn and Le B.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743780820460-VT_angie+mar.JPG)

_Chef Angie Mar in the kitchen with her brigade._

“Le B. is completely different but still tips its hat to my first restaurant, The Beatrice Inn, which was such a beloved place by so many,” Mar tells me via e-mail. “The Beatrice was focused as a chophouse, as that was its history, but with Le B., I got a fresh start. The cuisine here is what the cuisine at The Beatrice would have eventually evolved to, had I kept it open. The idea of the menu at Le B. is continental cuisine for the modern diner. Naturally, for me, that is a basis in French cuisine as that is how I am trained, but I focus on merging flavors and ingredients from my culture and upbringing and treating them in a very French way. I had an international childhood (London, Hong Kong, Seattle, New York), so all of these flavors and sensibilities are on full display on our menu. Le B. is continental and fun but very serious on technique.”

I ask which chefs inspired her, apart from the obvious one. “Chef Pierre Koffman, yes, of course!” she replies. “I think that we are so lucky to stand on these great chefs’ shoulders. The late Andre Soltner was a dear friend and a mentor—I always found his food and his spirit to be so inspiring. Marco Pierre White… I am also a bit ‘rock and roll’ at heart, so I see a kindred spirit in his cuisine. Mainly, I find inspiration in French cuisine from the fifties to the eighties: Point, Chapel, Lenôtre, Meneau. We have a very large collection of books from France during that time period in our kitchen library, and it's incredible to flip through and translate and learn.”

### The Meal

The meal begins with oysters Viennese that are light and creamy, sweetened with Auslese Grande Cuvée No. 5 from Austria’s finest sweet winemaker, Alois Kracher. “I love Sauternes and oysters,” Mar tells me. “I could make an entire meal out of it, honestly. The name ‘Oysters Viennese’ is a nod and wink to Kracher, who I had the pleasure of hosting for a luncheon a few months ago. He joked that my Austrian crepes were so good, they may grant me citizenship.” The dish is an interesting combination of bivalve and vino, and the balance is just right.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743780849121-VT_oyster.JPG)

_Oysters Viennese._

The oyster is accompanied by terrine à la Maison made from pork and duck, with pistachio and kumquat confit. This is delicious, quite rich but not excessive, the pistachio lending a light bitterness to counter the sweetness of the terrine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743780924915-VT_ravioli.JPG)

_Ravioli de cervelle de veau._

The ravioli de cervelle de veau, or calf’s brain, is gorgeous. It comes with mirepoix, Osetra caviar and sauce du Japon. Quite subtle in flavour, it has a melt-in-your-mouth consistency, the ravioli itself perfectly cooked, with the caviar imparting a light saltiness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781055307-VT_foie+gras.JPG)

_Pot au feu of foie gras._

The pot au feu of foie gras is beautifully presented with shavings of black truffle, shiso leaf and edible flowers in a wild mushroom consommé. Again, the foie gras is decadent but not too rich, and the shiso gives it a subtle pepperiness that lingers.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781102782-VT_pigeon.JPG)

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781130212-VT_pigeon+head.JPG)

_Truffled pigeonneau "two-ways."_

The truffled pigeonneau “two-ways” is served on the plate with black truffle, beluga lentils and mirepoix. Mar explained how the dish is prepared: “The bird is deboned and the breast meat stuffed with truffle and rolled into a ballotine, then cooked to a blush medium. The legs and the head are roasted and plated hot with a truffle and mushroom salad. Both dishes are then finished with sauce _albuféra_. I love a dish that has contrast, not just in flavor, but also temperature.”

Pink and tender, the pigeonnau is so tempting that I take a bite before I realise I haven't taken a photo, so I apologise for the dish looking a bit disheveled. The “other way” is a small bird that is eaten whole, including the head. Not for vegans, admittedly, but it is flavoursome with a welcome touch of bitterness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781197916-VT_trotter.jpg)

_"The Pig's Trotter" is an iconic dish, and Le B.'s rendition is superb._

The highlight of the meal is "The Pig's Trotter," obviously inspired by its creator, chef Pierre Koffman. I virtually lived on this dish about 25 years ago when I regularly dined at Mirabelle or The Square in Mayfair—arguably, the defining dish of the nineties.

“The trotter is rather classic, and for me, a labor of love,” Mar explains. “The trotters are deboned and braised with mirepoix and wine, then stuffed with a mousseline of hen and roasted veal sweetbreads and morels. We finish it by glazing it in the oven with its braising liquid and a bit of port.”

Presented whole to the table, the trotter is sliced and presented with a creamy potato. As soon as I put it into my mouth, I remember why I used to order this almost every dinner. It is perfectly cooked. Every morsel is tender and delicious.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781271390-VT_fromage.JPG)

_An assortment of cheeses._

This is followed by a cheese plate comprised of Cambozola Black Label from Germany, Brillat-Savarin from France and Tête de Moines from Switzerland. These are all top-notch, and I write that as not the most ardent turophile.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743782818842-VT_souffle.JPG)

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781432487-VT_madelaines.JPG)

_Pistachio soufflé and madeleines._

To finish, pistachio soufflé is accompanied by chocolate mint sorbet and a bowl of madeleines. The soufflé, perhaps predictably, reminds me of Michel Roux’s signature dessert at the aforementioned La Gavroche, and it is just wonderful. Perhaps it is almost overdoing it with the madeleines, but they are warm and comforting.

Joined by my friends, Scott H. and Sabra L. (to give them ”Severance” nomenclature), founding members of New York’s “Champagne Society,” it was no surprise that the liquid accompaniment for this meal is sparkling and stupendous. The bottle of **Les Roises** from **Ulysse Collin** , based on the 2013 vintage, testifies to why this producer has such a devout following. Apple crumble, grilled hazelnut and lemon verbena emerge on the nose that has beautiful definition and real intensity. It gains volume in the glass and shimmers with delight. The palate has a soupçon of reduction on the entry that merely lends tension, effortlessly counterbalancing the power of this champagne. There is a lovely edge and _nervosité_ on the finish that urges you back for another sip. What a brilliant sparkling start to the evening.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743781453452-VTApr04_wines.jpg)

Of course, anyone who loves Chablis is going to look forward to a **Raveneau**. I have to admit that this bottle of **2005 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru** does not quite “launch.” It feels a little subdued on the nose, only gradually awakening with linden and wet wool scents. The palate is beautifully balanced with impressive weight, though it just misses the nuance and gravitas of a great Raveneau. The **2000 Chambolle-Musigny Village** from **Domaine Georges Roumier** is quite the opposite. It transcends its status and forms yet more evidence that the millennial vintage was underestimated in the Côte d’Or. Complex on the nose, without seeing the label, I assume it might be a Les Cras, given its _mineralité_ and tension. The palate is poised with fine tannins, still youthful for a 25-year-old Village Cru, with veins of blue fruit on its precise finish. It’s drinking perfectly now, but based on this bottle, it will easily give another 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure. The **2008 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru** from **Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg** boasts more fruit intensity than its peers, quite plush with black cherries, hints of cassis and peony. The palate is framed by pliant, saturated tannins that lend this Nuits Saint-Georges a more Vosne-like personality. It is not the most complex iteration that I have encountered, but I appreciate its velvety texture and harmony on the finish.

The service at Le B. must be mentioned because it is impeccable. Waiters are attired to the nines, so refreshing as many of London’s restaurants, even the top Michelin-starred ones, have dispensed with formal dress. Prices at Le B. are not cheap—then again, nothing seems to be in New York, the same as in London these days—but you are rewarded with a superb, lavish meal with just the right amount of decadence.

Departing Le B.'s doors, I wonder how the city’s restaurant scene is doing, so I ask Mar for her view. She replies, “New York is picking up, and we are hopeful it will continue. I think the major shift is the number of quality restaurants available. There are maybe a handful of really excellent places—vastly different from the New York that I fell in love with 20 years ago. The new crop of restaurants opening up seems to be geared toward the younger ‘Instagram’ set in lieu of quality of service and cuisine. I suppose I am a fanatic and a bit of a snob when it comes to the classics, though. You can probably see that's true in both my cuisine and my dining patterns.”

Sure can. And that’s just why I loved Le B.

  
_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._  

Vinous Table: Le B., New York, United States

Vinous Table: Le B., New York, United States (Apr 2025)

### [Parcelles](https://www.parcelles-paris.fr/en/)

13 rue Chapon

75003 Paris, France

+33 (0)1 43 37 91 64

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 28, 2025

### The Food:

Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel, dried breadcrumbs

Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam sauce

Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves

Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac, beef bouillon

Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam

**The Wine:**

2020 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - 91

Vinous readers spending time in Paris will want to book a table at Parcelles. This small bistro/wine bar offers refined cuisine and a superb list. On this cold yet sunny winter day, the cozy, retro dining room is drenched with light, creating a perfect Parisian atmosphere for a relaxed lunch.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174385747-VT_leeks.jpg)

_Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel, dried breadcrumbs._

Parcelles offers a small menu of what is best described as elevated bistro food. I prefer small menus, as they are a sign of focus. Guests with specific dietary requirements should check out the menu before booking a table. The list is extensive, with plenty of choices. There aren’t too many deals; those days increasingly belong to the past. Service is competent but also not a highlight, at least not on this day. That said, I have a great deal of sympathy for anyone who works in the restaurant industry, as I have done those jobs myself and I know how hard they are.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174441559-VT_Scallops.jpg)

_Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam sauce._

Our starters are delicious. I admit I sometimes struggle with restaurants in France, as the cooking can be so heavy. At Parcelles, dishes are very much traditional in inspiration, with contemporary twists. Sauces are deeply flavored yet light. Grilled leeks with vadouvan sabayon is a perfect example. The sabayon, with its curry inflections, is an ideal complement to charred notes in the leeks and not overly heavy or dominant. Roscoff scallops, served with a smoked fish foam sauce, are on point.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174465660-VT_gnocchi.jpg)

_Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves._

Homemade gnocchi with sage butter sauce and fried sage leaves is another fine, filling winter dish, maybe not quite at the level of the others, but still very fine. Italy meets France. Cabbage stuffed with pork and foie gras is superb. What a dish. Everything works. This is the Parcelles kitchen at its best. The cabbage is perfectly cooked, and the stuffing is well seasoned. A dash of beef bouillon adds dimension and complexity while also refreshing the palate. I would happily return to Parcelles just to have this again.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174535482-VT_chou.jpg)

_Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac, beef bouillon._

In keeping with the style of the vintage, the **2020 Vosne-Romanée** from Mugneret-Gibourg is a rich, heady Burgundy, perhaps a bit big on its own, but very delicious on a cold winter day. Black cherry, spice, mocha and dried flowers all stain the palate. Dark and enveloping, with notable intensity, the Vosne-Romanée is a gorgeous village-level offering from this renowned domaine. It’s a perfect lunch wine, not too serious, but with enough substance to be interesting. We polish the bottle off rather quickly, always the most important verdict of all.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174557767-VTMar282025_wine.jpg)

Unfortunately, we don’t have time for dessert, but there is no way we are passing up cheese. Sainte-Nectaire, served with fig jam, is the perfect conclusion to this fine winter lunch.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174508426-VT-cheese.jpg)

_Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam._

Parcelles is highly recommended. It’s a small restaurant, so reservations are essential.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Parcelles, Paris, France

Vinous Table: Parcelles, Paris, France (Mar 2025)

### [Comice](https://comice.paris/)

+33 (0)1 42 15 55 70

31 Av. de Versailles

75016 Paris, France

Phone: +33 1 42 15 55 70

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 21, 2025

**The Food:**

Sea Scallop Carpaccio; Fennel, Radish, Confit Citrus, Lime

Handmade Potato Gnocchi Forestiers; Milk Caps, Chanterelles, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Vin Jaune Sauce

Carnaroli Risotto with Crab; Leeks, Tarragon, Beurre Blanc Sauce

Steamed Day Boat Turbot, Béarnaise Mousseline Sauce, Sweet Potato Ravioli, Spinach, Confit Shallot, Bacon Vinaigrette

French Lobster Poached in Beurre Blanc Sauce, Sweet Potato Ravioli, Spinach, Confit Shallot, Sauce Américaine.

Pear and Blackcurrant Sorbet, Yogurt Ice Cream, Lime, Mint, Basil, Champagne Mousse

Chocolate Soufflé with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream

Winter Citrus Tart, Almond Cream, Plum Seed Ice Cream, Crystallized Verbena

**The Wines:**

NV Marie-Noelle Ledru Brut Grand Cru Ambonnay – 90

2017 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru – 95

I admit I don’t spend much time in Paris, unfortunately. It seems like I am always going to or from somewhere else. Over the last few years, I have started to address this shortcoming. When I asked Vinous readers for their Paris dining suggestions, Comice popped up on many lists. Naturally, I was eager to check it out. This recent dinner was nothing short of spectacular.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566039649-VT_Scallop.jpg)

_Sea Scallop Carpaccio; Fennel, Radish, Confit Citrus, Lime_

Comice is located in the 16th arrondissement. Husband-and-wife team Noam Gedalof and Etheliya Hananova offer refined cuisine and an exceptional wine list. Gedalof spent time in numerous kitchens in Canada and the United States, including a stint at the French Laundry in Yountville. The couple met in Montréal, where Hananova was working as a sommelier. Eventually, France beckoned. After a year and a half of working and living in the city, the pair opened Comice. Critical acclaim arrived almost instantly, all of it richly deserved.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566076541-VT_Mushrooms.jpg)

_Handmade Potato Gnocchi Forestiers; Milk Caps, Chanterelles, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Vin Jaune Sauce_

Comice offers two tasting menus with optional wine pairings and various supplements. Gedalof’s cuisine is classically French, with a strong focus on ingredients. We order as much food as we think we can eat, knowing a return visit might not happen for a while. The ambiance in the cozy dining room is decidedly informal by Parisian standards. It’s a vibe that feels very contemporary. Food, wine and service are all top-notch, but there is no stuffiness here at all.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742567629722-VT_Risotto.jpg)

_Carnaroli Risotto with Crab; Leeks, Tarragon, Beurre Blanc Sauce_

Hananova’s wine list is superb, but she had me at, “We also have a few things that are not on the list, like Raveneau.” Sold. After two weeks of tasting Bordeaux, Chablis is perfect. Towards the end of the evening, I spent some time with the list. The emphasis is very much on small, grower domaines. I was so impressed. Every wine was clearly chosen for a specific reason that resonates with the owners. It’s exactly what a list should be. A curated selection, not an encyclopedia. My only critique, if I have one, is that some producers are represented with multiple entries. In a small list, that does stand out a bit. Ideally, those slots would be taken by other wines. At the same time, I fully recognize how much work is required for small, independent, non-corporate restaurants to source coveted wines and how hard it is to balance budgets, specifically the amount of money that is available to invest in a wine program versus sales.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566124503-VT_Turbot.jpg)

_Steamed Day Boat Turbot, Béarnaise Mousseline Sauce, Sweet Potato Ravioli, Spinach, Confit Shallot, Bacon Vinaigrette_

Etheliya Hananova is the consummate Sommelier, with a capital S. I admit, from time to time I eavesdrop on her conversations at other tables as she explains wines by the glass and those available in bottle. Her passion, knowledge and disarming, engaging personality are so rare in today’s restaurant world.

We start with Marie-Nöelle Ledru’s **NV Brut Grand Cru Ambonnay**. Ledru, now retired, is among the growers who ascended to cult status some years ago. Her wines are full of character, perhaps a bit too idiosyncratic for my taste, but interesting, nonetheless. The NV Brut Grand Cru is a fine introduction to the house style, a Champagne with plenty of the resonance and breadth that are such signatures of the Pinot-Noir-driven wines from Ambonnay.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566150893-VT_Lobster.jpg)

_French Lobster Poached in Beurre Blanc Sauce, Sweet Potato Ravioli, Spinach, Confit Shallot, Sauce Américaine_

Gorgeous plates begin to appear. The Sea Scallop Carpaccio is pristine. It tastes like it just came out of the ocean. Thin slices of fennel, radish and confit citrus add freshness and lightness to the scallop. Handmade Potato Gnocchi play in another realm. Milk caps, chanterelles and black trumpet mushrooms, dressed in a Vin Jaune sauce, make for a rich winter starter. All the elements meld into each other seamlessly. Dinner is off to a great start.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566179282-VT_Wine.jpg)

The **2017 Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru** is in fine shape. A touch of decanting, which I always do for younger Chablis, really allows the aromas, flavors and textures to shine. The 2017 is in the perfect spot today, as it offers a good deal of complexity yet remains quite vibrant. Citrus confit, marzipan, white pepper and floral overtones show the textural resonance of a fine Chablis with bottle age. Clean, bracing mineral notes start to appear over time. The wine’s freshness makes it an especially fine match for some of the richer dishes on this menu. Superb.

Carnaroli Risotto from Riserva San Massimo in Pavia, done with Tourteau crab, leeks, tarragon and a beurre blanc sauce, is a tasty middle course. The risotto is very French in terms of its richness, most definitely not a dish for those on a diet! The crab, from the Brittany coast, is especially delicious. I might have liked the rice cooked a touch less, but that is a small critique. Here, too, the various components are all beautifully woven together.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566205593-VT_Souffle.jpg)

_Chocolate Soufflé with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream_

For the main courses we opt for the Steamed Day Boat Turbot from the Brittany coast and Butter Poached Atlantic Coast Lobster, both offered as supplements. Mains are served with sweet potato ravioli, spinach, confit shallot and bacon vinaigrette. The Turbot is topped with a Béarnaise Mousseline (essentially a classic Béarnaise with cream), while the Lobster is accompanied by a sauce américaine. I can’t pick a favorite. Both dishes are rich, complex and archetypes of modern French cuisine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1742566230200-VT_Tart.jpg)

_Winter Citrus Tart, Almond Cream, Plum Seed Ice Cream, Crystallized Verbena_

Cheese looks amazing, but we can’t do it. Desserts, brought out to share, are right up my alley. The Chocolate Soufflé is perfect. It is creamy and decadent, not too sweet and absolutely delicious with a touch of ice cream. Chocolate-lovers might not want to share! We finish with the Winter Citrus and Almond Cream Tart, which is so refreshing at the end of the meal.

Readers spending time in Paris will want to book a table at Comice. It’s a terrific spot. And for all our readers who recommended it, thank you!

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Comice, Paris, France

Vinous Table: Comice, Paris, France (Mar 2025)

### [Osip](https://osiprestaurant.com/)

25 Kingsettle Hill

Hardway

Bruton, Somerset, UK

BA10 0LN

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 14, 2025

**The Food** :

Parsnip

Fermented potato bread

Beetroot

Celeriac

Rhubarb

Fallow deer

Blood orange

**The Wines:**

2023 Alessandro Viola IGP Terre Siciliane Note di Bianco - 89

1970 Grand-Puy-Lacoste - 93

Sometimes you exit a restaurant feeling relief that you experienced its cuisine before widespread fame. You feel a bit smug. You pat yourself on the back. You want to spread the word but paradoxically, you want to keep it as your own secret. Hey, I’m spreading the word…

Osip will become one of the UK’s most sought-after tables. Sure, it has already been awarded a Michelin star, although that is likely not the first accolade. In any case, that star came in 2021 in the restaurant’s prior incarnation, when it occupied No. 1 Bruton Hotel, the same space that now hosts [Briar](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-briar-mar-2025). Since relocating a couple of miles up the road last summer into a three-century-old country inn, there is no doubt that chef Merlin Labron-Johnson has flourished. He’s only going to get better.

Alerted to the existence of Osip by restaurant critic Marina McCloughlin, someone who knows what’s good and what’s not, I reserved a table to celebrate another successful orbit around the sun. At the time of this writing, most major restaurant reviewers are yet to ring Osip’s doorbell, and most articles pertain to Osip 1.0. Therefore, if this Vinous Table sounds tempting, do not hesitate to make a reservation and work out the logistics later. Osip is a bit of an odd name, so I presumed there must be some story behind it. It comes from Labron-Johnson’s middle name that was inspired by Russian poet, Osip Mandelstam. I was already familiar with Merlin Labron-Johnson’s cooking. He was appointed head chef at Portland restaurant in London a few years ago—part of Will Lander’s mini-empire that includes Quality Chop House and [64 Goodge Street](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-64-goodge-street-london-uk-sep-2023). Labron-Johnson won a Michelin star after just a few months at only 24 years of age, then headed up the highly-rated Clipstone, running both simultaneously. After six years in the capital, like many, he moved closer to his roots in order to escape the frenetic city life, though I suspect he’s busier than ever.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741795837737-Vinous_osip+kitchen.JPG)

_Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson and his team hard at work._

Osip lies out in the sticks on the edge of a pine forest, though only a couple of hours’ drive from London. The inn, whose renovation was partly crowd-funded, is a postcard picture with pristine whitewashed exterior walls that wouldn’t flinch if a bomb went off, one of those buildings that holds numerous untold stories. A cauldron burns hay in the cold night air as we enter and I speculate what it might be for.

The interior seamlessly blends history and modernity. The original structure is naturally preserved as the building is listed, though the rear has been extended to house a roomy open kitchen, chic and minimalist in design. When I write “open,” you can literally wander in and ask if they’d need a hand washing pots and pans. Members of the brigade diligently perform their tasks at various stations, giving notice that these dishes require a lot of talented manpower. The rear floor-to-ceiling windows enhance the sense of space without spoiling the frontage and apparently offer a lovely daytime view across Somerset. The subdued lighting creates a cozy ambiance. Rural restaurants foment tranquility that is impossible to recreate in cities, but there is just the right hubbub of background chat and laughter to maintain lively atmosphere.

The menu is one of the most innovative I have encountered in a while. Each dish keeps you guessing, obliging two or three minutes’ examination and contemplation. Apart from the main course, nothing feels derivative, as if each has been designed from scratch. The set menu is priced at £125 per person, which, given London prices, is pretty fair and given the quality, excellent value. A vegetarian set menu is also available, and since the regular one leans toward legumes, I presume it only needs minor tweaking. There is just one meat-based main course and because you’re dining for three or four hours; you never feel stuffed. The leitmotifs are startling combinations of locally sourced and seasonal organic/biodynamically grown ingredients, freshness and texture. When I say that, I was so engrossed in the food that I didn’t notice that I hadn’t used any cutlery until the meat dish. It’s a tactile dining experience. Make sure you wash your hands before.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741795975591-Vinous_osip+amuse.JPG)

_We enjoyed two amuse-bouches at the bar before our meal: a savory "cookie" and a trout tartare._

We begin with two amuse-bouches served in the reception area located by the entrance, where a wood burner roars away generating country “feels.” A bar serves cocktails, aperitifs and quite delicious non-alcoholic beverages to our right, and indeed, I order an apple and sorrel juice that is fabulous. I mean Somerset…apples…gotta be done, right? I enjoy meals whose “opening credits” start _before_ being shown to our table, like at Moor Hall or La Petite Colombe. That ritual eases you in, sometimes encouraging mingling with fellow diners. One amuse-bouche is described as a “cookie”: quail egg with a delicate mushroom and hazelnut shavings. The other is a trout tartare with slithers of radish and green apple, light and refreshing, revivifying the senses for what is to follow.

Escorted to our table, the waiter presents what you could describe as a “laconic” menu, a single word giving clues what to expect. I’ve reproduced it word-for-word at the top of this article. “We like to keep it a bit of a surprise,” he explains. Of course, with my intention of penning a Vinous Table, that obliges copious jotting down of ingredients during the meal.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796096693-Vinous_osip+parsnip.JPG)

_The parsnip appetizer primed me for a dinner full of surprises._

I soon come to expect the unexpected. The first dish just says “parsnip.” What arrives mounted on what looks like a miniature Doric pillar looks nothing like your common or garden root veg. This parsnip, like all the vegetables grown in Osip’s own patch, is fried and coated with Toragashi, a Japanese spice made from chili, black and white sesame seeds, orange zest, ginger, Sichuan pepper and seaweed, and a garlic mayo. The earthy notes of the root vegetable are present but chaperoned with Oriental flavours. This is served with a small dish containing a deeply flavoured burnt garlic oil consommé that has a simmering intensity and deftly cleans the palate. In the middle of the table, a warm fermented potato bread that comes with a kefir cream and leek tapenade butter. I use this to mop up the delicious mushroom sauce that holds the parsnip in place. These dishes set the tone for the rest of the meal, forewarning the senses that they had better be alert because they were about to be spoiled rotten.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796210220-Vinous_osip+pomelo.JPG)

_The pomelo packs a punch with its citrus flavors, sweet ricotta and expert seasoning._

The next dish has a citrus theme: thinly cut pomelo delicately placed into a bed of creamy ricotta and seasoned with bay leaf, tarragon and sesame seed. This is another that delivers intensity of flavour yet is light and refreshing, the citric pomelo perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the ricotta. Perhaps this is the most understated dish of the meal, but no less impressive.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796255113-Vinous_osip+eel.JPG)

_The eel at Osip is sourced locally and proved delicate yet complex._

The next dish is centred around eel. The waiter informs us that these are local freshwater eel from Devon that tend to be especially complex in flavour. This eel is wrapped in baby gem lettuce and served with preserved cucumber, shiso leaf, smoked hay ketchup and apple. It is stunning. Nuanced yet focused in flavour, the shiso and ketchup lend spice and sweetness respectively yet never overwhelm the eel.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796349815-Vinous_osip+celeriac.JPG)

_The celeriac course is another masterful rendition of a humble root vegetable._

The following course is entitled “celeriac.” This is served with a shiitake mushroom marmalade with cured egg yolk in the middle. It is warming and earthy, not overly heavy, with a lovely rootsy taste that lingers afterwards.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796437253-Vinous_osip+tacos.JPG)

_The beetroot taco was certainly unlike any taco I've ever encountered._

Next up, “beetroot tacos.” Of all the dishes, this is the one that holds the most surprises. The beetroot forms a taco made with corn flour that lends it a soft, malleable consistency and a little more sweetness. This comes with crème fraiche, a Mexican mole and liberally sprinkled shavings of dried venison heart from the following course so that nothing is left to waste. This is just sensational. Fabulous combinations of flavours, novel and again, not heavy.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796484334-Vinous_osip+deer.JPG)

_The main course of deer, again sourced locally, blew me away._

Only now do a knife and fork appear. I’m in the mood for fallow deer rather than the optional chicken en croute that would have been an extra £50. Maintaining the local theme, the local venison is thinly sliced and served with green peppercorns, blood sausage, pork belly and a homemade quince marmalade. This is off the charts. The intensity of flavour, the marriage of ingredients that could easily have been too rich but instead have exquisite balance. It reminds me of one of Brett Graham’s creations at The Ledbury. The key is those peppercorns, which enhance the gaminess of the meat and combine beautifully with the tangy sweetness of the marmalade.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796596798-Vinous_osip+blood+orange.JPG)

_The blood orange dessert was one of two complementary offerings, which together made for a perfect coda for our meal._

Two desserts complete the dinner. Blood orange comes in a rhubarb juice and pistachio oil, with a sorrel sorbet as the centrepiece. It electrifies the senses. This is followed by a soft meringue with chicory root ice cream and bergamot sabayon that is in perfect contrast to the blood orange, warm and sweet yet avoiding any cloyingness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796697999-Vinous_osip+viola.JPG)

The wine list is well chosen even if a bit punchy at times in terms of pricing. That’s the norm these days. I have no complaints about the white, even when the sommelier forewarns that it is a bit on the “natty” side, allowing me to sample a glass beforehand. The **2023 IGP Terre Siciliane Note di Bianco** from **Alessandro Viola** is a delight: 100% Grillo from Alcamo in Sicily that undergoes a natural ferment, then is raised in stainless steel and bottled unfiltered with minimal sulphur. There is a nutty, smoky oxidative element but it is well controlled, with scents of Anjou pear and persimmon emerging with time. It actually gains clarity. The palate is fresh and poised with a keen line of acidity and welcome salinity, revealing pear and subtle fish oil notes on the finish. I actually drank just half the bottle and drank the remainder the following day when I found it had lost absolutely none of its vitality.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741796718730-Vinous_osip+gpl.JPG)

The **1970 Grand-Puy-Lacoste** is a prime example of a wine that upon decanting offers little. The sommelier is a bit wary and I advise him to just wait an hour. Sure enough, this Pauillac blossoms in the glass, mustering energy, depth and complexity from seemingly nowhere. The bouquet is fully mature with black fruit, cedar and scents from a stately home, cohering with each passing minute. The palate is unapologetically “old school” with a little rusticity, yet the tannins are fine and the acidity pitch-perfect, continuing to offer irresistible tobacco-tinged black fruit. This bottle had cost me just over £60 from a merchant.

Quibbles? The dining area is divided into two parts and we were in a section that felt cut off from the action by a thick interior wall. Sure, there is a cutaway where I could observe the main dining area, but I would have loved to have eaten whilst looking on at the kitchen. (To this end, I read somewhere that they are going to see if this can be rectified.) And my usual moan… I completely understand why the wine list is geared towards organic and biodynamic wines given that ingredients follow the same mantra. On the other hand, again, it ignores classic wine regions and producers with the same tenets.

Nevertheless, Osip is one of the most impressive meals I’ve had in the last couple of years. The setting is wonderful. The cooking is delicious. There is a sense of innovation and outside-the-box thinking that elevates it into two-star territory. Given that Osip only recently opened its doors in its present venue, the only way is up. The combination of Briar and Osip make a perfect weekend gastronomic getaway: the former more straightforward and homely, the latter adventurous and technically accomplished. Osip is due to complete the construction of four rooms at the inn for those that wish to slink upstairs after dinner, though No.1 Bruton Hotel is only a short taxi ride away. Everything just seems in place and that in itself will entice more to this part of England.

The bar has been set high for 2025.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Osip, Bruton, UK

Vinous Table: Osip, Bruton, UK (Mar 2025)

### [Briar](https://numberonebruton.com/) 

1 High St

Bruton, Somerset, UK

BA10 0AB

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 7, 2025

### The Food:

Somerset Sobrassada on toast with pear and parsley

Cured trout, rhubarb, chilli and parsley

Fresh curds, grilled leeks and hazelnuts

Cornish pollock, celeriac, seaweed and chives

Lamb shoulder, fennel, winter leaf salad and anchovies

Chocolate, blood orange and crème fraiche

**The Wine:**

1971 Bischöfliches Priesterseminar Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett – 93

Despite the headwinds affecting the hospitality industry, in 2025, the British Isles presides over a dynamic culinary scene that spreads from the tip of Cornwall to the far isles of Scotland. This diverse food landscape is unequivocally <u>not</u> exclusive to London. On the contrary, there is a strong argument that the most exciting restaurants and most talented chefs operate outside the capital. The last two decades have seen a steady, perhaps quickening migration away from London. This is partly due to escalating prices, especially business rates, together with a burgeoning desire to locate kitchens close to the source of the finest produce and ingredients (particularly amongst chefs who hail from those areas). Days before writing this piece, [Moor Hall](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-moor-hall-lancashire-uk-jan-2023) made mainstream news becoming the only recipient of a third Michelin star in 2025. Moor Hall is not located in salubrious Knightsbridge or Soho, but in the middle of nowhere, up near Liverpool.

The British Isles is developing clusters of restaurants, suppliers and attendant hotels that attract gastronomes in increasing numbers. The forerunner might be Maidenhead/Marlow, renowned for The Fat Duck, Waterside Inn and Hand and Flowers, all within shouting distance of each other. Lancashire is currently flourishing, a part of England renowned for outstanding meat and dairy and where you find L’Enclume and the aforementioned Moor Hall. Another that is bubbling under is Somerset, little more than a couple of hours’ drive from London. In February, I visited the picturesque village of Bruton to check out two restaurants that offer different but complementary dining experiences: Briar and Osip.

Occasionally, you meet a young, bushy-tailed chef and you intuitively know that you’re face-to-face with a future star, a culinary talent in the opening chapters of their career. Chatting briefly after dinner at Briar, Macclesfield-born Sam Lomas exudes the quiet confidence of a chef who knows how to run a kitchen. A disciple of farm-to-table dining, Lomas worked for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall for three or four years at River Cottage in Devon. As an aside, writing this piece enhanced my appreciation for the prescience and influence of Fearnley-Whittingstall and his advocacy of thinking about where our food comes from. Farm-to-table dining was unquestionably inspired by his books and TV programs, an ethos that chimes with the mantra for local, seasonal ingredients and sustainable produce.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741275337354-Vinous_briar+sam+lomas.JPG)

_Briar chef Sam Lomas is a culinary star in the making._

Briar is nestled on the ground floor of the Number One Bruton Hotel in the namesake rural village. It is one of those places where every building looks ancient and slightly imposing. Opposite, you will find The Chapel, renowned for its bread, pies and sausage rolls. The hotel is history incarnate. Part of the exposed wall in the small and narrow restaurant dates to the 16th century. Conversely, Briar is just five months old, nevertheless, it was awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin on the week of my visit. The small kitchen is housed at one end of the room. It’s not a fully open kitchen and the light makes it look like a large flatscreen television, except the only program on this channel is live-action coverage of chefs rustling up delicious food.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741275470987-Vinous_briar+interior.JPG)

_Briar's interior exposes a wall from the 1500s._

Apart from farm-to-table eating, Briar’s concept is built around sharing plates. This is the one part that didn’t quite work for me. I just felt that some dishes were not predisposed to dividing in half. A couple were fiddly to split and would have worked better as a serving for one. Following advice from our waitress, we order five dishes and are forewarned that they might come out in a slightly random order depending on the kitchen. The standard of ingredients and skill of Lomas’ cooking is evident throughout the meal.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741275889637-Vinous_briar+soprassada.JPG)

_The Somerset Sobrassada on toast with pear and parsley._

These are not intricate, fancy dishes. Their simplicity is what makes them so tasty. The first dish is Somerset Sobrassada on toast with pear and parsley. The pear is served as a sweet gel, a neat counterfoil to the Sobrassada that was spread over the malty toast. The quality of the cooked sausage shines through, tangy on the entry with a fiery kick on the finish. It is delicious but also quite spicy. I would have shimmied it to later in the meal.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741275909846-Vinous_briar+leeks.JPG)

_Briar uses local, seasonal produce to elevate dishes like the fresh curds, grilled leeks and hazelnuts._

The fresh curds with grilled leeks and hazelnuts is a glorious dish, deceptively straightforward, but the quality of ingredients takes it to a higher level. The leeks are small with an intense flavour, perfectly cooked to retain a little crunch, with just the right amount of charring to counter their sweetness. The curds are light and creamy, the hazelnuts lending bite and balancing the whole dish. The secret is the subtle Chinese XO sauce mixed with garlic and ginger. I’ll go on record as saying that they are the best leeks I’ve encountered.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741276162005-Vinous_briar+trout.JPG)

_The cured trout displays Briar's commitment to high-quality local ingredients._

The cured trout comes with diced rhubarb, chili and parsley. The fish is quite meaty in texture and is clearly top-notch, although the chili shades the rhubarb and, to an extent, the trout. This just needs a little tweaking.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741276435688-Vinous_briar+pollock.JPG)

_The Cornish pollock was one of the highlights of the meal._

No complaints about the Cornish pollock that is chaperoned by celeriac, seaweed and chives. This is another highlight. Pollock is underrated, and this is cooked to absolute perfection, the skin slightly charred and crunchy. Unlike the trout, this is supremely well balanced, the celeriac and seaweed nuanced such that the pollock could sing.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741276503233-Vinous_briar+lamb.JPG)

_I enjoyed my main course of lamb with fennel, winter leaf salad and anchovies._

The lamb shoulder comes with fennel, winter leaf salad and anchovies. The local lamb is moist and flavoursome, the fennel superior to any that I have bought in my outdoor market. Anchovies are chefs’ secret weapon, accentuating flavours without leaving any residual fishy taste, and I actually deploy them with other meats at home, chicken working particularly well.

I finish with a chocolate mousse that was served with blood orange and crème fraiche. This is sublime, not too sweet or heavy, the blood orange with a subtle tang and marrying perfectly with the crème fraiche that I greedily spoon up until there is nothing left.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741276631556-Vinous_briar+1971+bottle.JPG)

The wine list is short and, like so many restaurants these days, sidesteps the classic regions, I think to its detriment. Most bottles are well priced in the £40 to £80 range for whites and reds. Phoning ahead, the restaurant was amenable to BYO with corkage and since this was the week of my birthday, I arrived packing a suitable vintage. The **1971 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett** from **Bischöfliches Priesterseminar** is everything I desire from a mature Mosel, or more accurately, Saar. Plus, of course, ‘71 is a highly-prized German vintage. My colleague, Anne Krebiehl, MW, told me the background of this producer. She explained that many vineyards were sold after Napoleon’s takeover, but some retained ecclesiastical proprietorship and remain that way today. This particular wine comes from a seminary founded in 1773 with a vineyard planted by Clemens Wenzeslaus, who issued the edict that only Riesling should be planted in the region. Clever man! Who says you don’t learn anything in a Vinous Table?

Amber in hue, I was momentarily perturbed that the 1971 might be past its best. Yet its freshness and vitality on the nose allay any fear as Clementine, mandarin and grapefruit soar with perfect delineation. The palate offers chimerical sweetness due to its age rather than residual sugar, as it is bone dry on the finish, more Trocken than Kabinett. It delivers the tension that aged Riesling excels at, undaunted by age, sprightly and yet comfortable in its maturity. This wine is all I needed to drink to celebrate another successful orbit around the sun.

Briar is a popular destination restaurant that is open all day if you want to pop in for coffee and a slice of cake, however, it’s a place you really need to come to for lunch or dinner. Booking is essential, as there are only around 25 covers. Whilst Briar is arguably too straightforward for a Michelin star, every dish showcases local produce and a talented chef. Sam Lomas is a name to keep your eye on. It is always better to experience chefs before their breakout and to follow their journey toward wider recognition or fame. Sure, I might just tidy up a couple of the dishes, but otherwise, you can understand why this place is fully packed with both locals and gourmands.

In my next Vinous Table, I will cover Briar’s “older brother,” Osip. Expect superlatives…

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Briar, Bruton, UK

Vinous Table: Briar, Bruton, UK (Mar 2025)

[
### Lurra
](https://www.lurra.co.uk/)

9 Seymour Place

London, UIK

W1H 5BA

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 21, 2025

**The Food:**

Gernika peppers

Boquerones anchovies

Coombeshead sourdough with salted butter

5J Presa Ibérica with chimichurri and Feo de Tedula tomato salad

Basque cheesecake

**The Wines:**

2010 Castello Luigi Bianco del Ticino Besazio – 88

1994 Angélus - 94

I hate London. It is a Godforsaken February morning, the weather miserable as usual. I am walking upstream against a tide of tourists on Oxford Street. Once upon a time, this thoroughfare was flanked by magnificent edifices of renowned department stores that catered for Mr. and Mrs. Well-to-do. Now it is a sea of vapid vape shops, American candy stores and Primarks. Techno blares out front doors. Why can’t they play music to educate the passers-by: Bach’s Goldberg Variations, early Associates or Nick Drake? The air is polluted with exhaust fumes and stale pizza. Unlike every other famous high street around the world, Westminster Council never pedestrianized Oxford Street, hence the permanent logjam of vehicles. That makes it convenient for balaclava-clad teenagers on souped-up electric bikes to whip Smartphones from the hands of unsuspecting tourists desperately searching _Google Maps_ for the quickest escape route from this retail dystopia. I’m heading towards Marble Arch, a knock-off _Arc de Triomphe_ much like the knock-off tat sold down Oxford Street. This was original the site of Tyburn Tree, a twee name that hides a dark history; the titular tree was London’s de facto gallows that could execute 24 felons at a single pull of the lever. I fantasize about Parisian boulevards, Tokyo’s crime-free streets, Cape Town’s stunning backdrop and Miami’s white beaches, wishing I was anywhere but here…

I find Seymour Street, a sub rosa locale that’s a two-minute walk from Marble Arch. I rub my eyes in disbelief. Have I walked through a _dokodemo_ door into another city (_Doraemon_ fans will understand). It’s a quaint backstreet with bustling cafés and tempting independent restaurants, imbued with a parochial urban atmosphere that you would never expect in the heart of London. You would remain blissfully ignorant of its existence unless someone gave you a reason to venture that way, and my reason is to meet a friend from whom I procured many a bottle of fine wine back in my buying days. We’re long overdue a catch-up and Lurra was recommended by his colleague.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740062430077-Vinous_lurra+interior.JPG)

_The interior of Lurra._

I had never heard of Lurra before, though those in the know seem familiar with it. Lurra specializes in Basque cuisine. The modern interior occupies a ground and upper level, with low ceilings. It’s smaller than expected, with Scandi style tables and chairs and banquettes across the back, above which are numerous cookery books. It throngs with diners this Tuesday lunchtime and there’s an enticing hubbub of noise.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740062562801-Vinous_chopping+tomatoes.jpg)

_The chef dicing and slicing Feo de Tedula tomatoes for the evening service._

Unusually, the open kitchen is on your left as you enter, so the heady scents of Basque cuisine already make your mouth water before you’ve sat down. Sometimes you know you love a restaurant before you’ve been handed the menu. When it arrives, practically every dish calls my name.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063093768-Vinous_gernika+peppers.JPG)

_We started our evening with the Gernika peppers._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063154001-Vinous_anchovies.JPG)

_The Boquerones anchovies._

The Gernika peppers are outstanding. They are a little different from the better-known Padrón peppers, a little longer and larger, and slightly sweeter. Fresh, with just a little crunch and a healthy seasoning of sea salt, these are quickly demolished. The Boquerones anchovies are small but intense in flavor, the sweet red pepper punchy and perhaps with just a little too much heat. Meanwhile, the _Coombeshead_ sourdough with salted butter is fresh out the oven, moist and so warm that you have to leave it a couple of minutes before tearing a chunk.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063325836-Vinous_iberico.JPG)

_Our main course was the 5J Presa Ibérica, a traditional Iberian pork dish._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740062610911-Vinous_tomatoes.JPG)

_The Feo de Tedula tomato salad complemented the 5J Presa Ibérica._

The 5J Presa Ibérica with chimichurri is wonderful, the pork perfectly cooked and tender, the chimichurri with just enough heat to liven the senses. Like many main dishes, you pay by the size, and a smaller portion is perfectly adequate. It is chaperoned by a side order of delicious Feo de Tedula tomatoes straight from Navarra. Feo de Tedula can be translated as “the ugly one from Tedula,” as these tomatoes are often misshapen. They are much sweeter than what you could find on our own shores, even in the height of summer.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063521662-Vinous_cheesecake.JPG)

_This was one of the best cheesecakes I have ever encountered._

I finish with the Basque cheesecake. It is perfect. The first mouthful is blissful. It’s the best that I have ever eaten. Perfect light in consistency, it’s a little sweeter than others, with a gossamer-thin burnt topping that demonstrates delicacy of touch. I had resolved to eat half of it due to my dietary regimen, but finding it impossible to resist just another spoonful, I beg my dining companion to help. Lurra is worth visiting for the cheesecake alone.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063748399-Vinous_castello+luigi.jpg)

My friend kindly bought two bottles. The **2010 Bianco del Ticino** from **Castello Luigi** is a Swiss white with which I am unfamiliar, so I message my colleague, Nicolas Greinacher, who knows all about these kinds of things. He replies that this comes from a single-hectare parcel of Chardonnay planted on calcareous soils in 1989, the maiden vintage in 1996. It is highly sought-after, with prices to match. The 2010 has a Marmite nose: you will love it or hate it depending upon your preference for oxidation. It is strong but not overpowering, with grilled hazelnuts, orange rind, smoke and damp hay, becoming slightly honeyed with time. The oxidative element is potent on the palate too, quite acrid and very nutty in style, with an arrestingly dry and bitter finish. Maybe it’s a couple of years past its best, but I don’t mind it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1740063819605-Vinous_angelus+1994.jpg)

If there is a better 1994 Bordeaux than the **1994 Angélus** , born in a mediocre growing season, then I have not tasted it. My friend and I used to vacuum up this wine at [Andrew Edmunds](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-andrew-edmunds-london-uk-oct-2022) 20 years ago when it was listed for around 40 quid a bottle, so I have a sentimental attachment. However, the 1994 is everything you could want from a mature Saint-Émilion without pretentiousness. Gorgeous scents of red fruit, loam, chestnut and smoke blossom on the nose, hinting at possibly 1995 rather than 1994. Merlot is in the driving seat. The palate has wonderful balance and a keen line of acidity, fully mature yet certainly showing no signs of reaching the end of its drinking window. Mellow with pliant tannins softened by age, the Angélus boasts surprising depth and flesh, with hints of dried blood and game towards the finish. I love this Angélus now as much as I did back then. If you see a bottle, do yourself a favor.

Lurra is an unexpected gem nestled in a less-ventured part of London, hiding out of plain sight. It’s one of those places where I was planning a return visit as soon as I entered its doors. There are so many dishes on the menu that I still want to try. I appreciate the authenticity of ingredients and unfussy presentation that allow flavors and sourcing to speak for themselves. Prices are reasonable for London. Lurra treads a fine line, a classy restaurant without Michelin-starred pretensions.

I love London…sometimes.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Lurra, London, UK

Vinous Table: Lurra, London, UK (Feb 2025)

### [Mudan Tempura](https://www.mudantempura.com/)

43號45號

Lane 10, Chengdu Rd

Wanhua District

Taipei City

Taiwan

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 14, 2025

### The Food:

Abalone with udon, caviar and flowers

Grouper broth

Shrimp tempura

Kisu (Japanese whiting) tempura

Sea urchin with shiso leaf

Gingko tempura

Rosy sea bass tempura

Fresh lobster tempura

Taiwanese springfish

Tofu with fresh dashi and sesame

Ikura (salmon roe) tempura

Hachiya

Lotus root

Anago (Conger eel)

Satsuma imo (sweet potato)

Tsukemono (Japanese pickles)

Taiwanese oolong tea

**The Wines:**

1990 Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill – 97

2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc – 91

1993 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru – 90

1996 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru – 94

2002 Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg Grand Cru – 88

2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru – 95

2010 Domaine Bizot Echézeaux Grand Cru – 86

2006 Domaine Dujac Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru – 93

2000 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru – 94

2006 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée Grand Cru – 97

2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru – 87?

1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru – 90?

1999 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru – 95+

At its most fundamental level, Japanese cuisine is about elevating simplicity to its highest level. The ethos of Mudan Tempura takes that principle and runs with it. However, this restaurant is located neither in Tokyo nor Kyoto, not even Japan. Mudan is in central Taipei. Taiwan's strong affinity with Japan is deeply embroidered into its gastronomy. Driving through the city on my first and hopefully not last visit, I spotted numerous Japanese restaurants catering to most subgenres of cuisine. Mudan Tempura has two Michelin stars under its belt. Obtaining one of the restaurant’s coveted 16-or-so seats requires some perseverance. Nevertheless, for this special evening, we have the entire restaurant to ourselves, arranging long in advance to bring our own wines. There are two sittings each day, at 12:30pm and 6.30pm, and since there is only one cooking station, Mudan requests that guests arrive promptly, which is common amongst top Japanese restaurants.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468347791-Vinous_mudan+sign.JPG)

_The discreet sign on Mudan's façade._

The exterior is purposefully nondescript and designed along the lines of many a Japanese restaurant, like a coy geisha that wishes not to advertise her presence. Your trusty _Google Maps_ should guide you to its front door as Mudan is located on a main thoroughfare, not down some dead-end alleyway. You enter a single room cast in tenebrous light dominated by a three-sided counter with the fryer stationed in the middle—the focal point for the entire evening. The décor is minimalist, just an ornate replica of maple hung on one of its walls, focusing attention on the only thing that matters: what you are about to eat. On this evening, the restaurant was staffed by one head chef and his young assistant, a bit like [La Lune](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-where-do-i-eat-in-burgundy-jan-2024) in Beaune. Everything here is about fastidious sourcing of ingredients, seasonality and nuance. One thing I should note is that the tempura here is known for its lighter coating. In some dishes, it is gossamer thin (the antithesis of a fish ‘n chips I recently ate in London that was 90% batter, 5% air and 5% that might have once had gills).

There are about 17 courses in a special menu designed for this evening. This is definitely one occasion where images say more than words, because nearly all the dishes are prepped and fried one by one. I have just added information with regard to sourcing—let’s just say Mudan would not win any sustainability awards given the air miles that some ingredients accumulated.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468553882-Vinous_mudan+abalone.JPG)

_The chef told me that the abalone actually comes from South Africa. That’s a long way from Taiwan!_

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468613530-Vinous_mudan+grouper+soup.JPG)

_The grouper comes from the east of Taiwan and is served in a subtle, clear broth_.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468699616-Vinous_mudan+shrimp.JPG)

_The shrimp oozes with sweetness and juiciness, this fella from Kagoshima in Japan._

 ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468764416-Vinous_mudan+kisu.JPG)

_Kissing gourami is a fish native to Southeast Asia_.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468811296-Vinous_mudan+sea+urchin.JPG)

_The sea urchin comes from Hokkaido and is served with shiso leaf._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468864745-Vinous_mudan+gingko.JPG)

_Tempura gingko nuts_

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739468934408-Vinous_mudan+sea+bass.JPG)

_The rosy sea bass is a local Taiwanese fish._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739470779411-Vinous_mudan+lobster.JPG)

_Tempura of_ _French lobster._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471429955-Vinous_mudan+springfish.JPG)

_Springfish is known as “ayu” in Japan and is commonly served in Japanese restaurants,_ _though this one is native to Taiwan._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471459488-Vinous_mudan+tofu.JPG)

_The tofu comes with a fresh dashi and sesame_.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471489126-Vinous_mudan+ikura.JPG)

_This ikura (salmon roe) is tinctured black, not from squid ink but from seaweed._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471511699-Vinous_mudan+satsuma+imo.JPG)

_This Satsuma-imo (sweet potato) was fried for 30 minutes. I don’t often see them in the UK, but they are plentiful in Burgundy._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471556391-Vinous_mudan+rice+in+clear+broth.JPG)

_This bowl of rice comes with shrimp in a clear broth made from tea—so nuanced in flavor._

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471601508-Vinous_mudan+dessert.JPG)

_This dessert uses lotus root powder from the chef’s hometown, mixed with a brown sugar sauce._

The theme for the fermented grape juice is Burgundy, although we begin in appropriate fashion with bubbles.

The **1990 Cuvée Winston Churchill** from **Pol Roger** , poured from magnum, is a magnificent Champagne that is reaching its peak. It comes armed with an ethereal nose that unfolds with yellow fruit, hints of butterscotch and melted candlewax, boasting exquisite delineation and _mineralité_, perhaps with a sense of _joie-de-vivre_. The palate has a soft, pillowy texture, though there is a brisk acidic spine that lends this real tension. Possessing Balletic balance yet layered and caressing on the finish, this is a champagne that our wartime PM would have relished. There is just one white. The **2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc** from **de Vogüé** , which I would have last tasted in barrel with former winemaker François Millet, is quite powerful on the nose, in my mind, curiously Côte de Beaune-like in style. Given the growing season in question, I would have liked more tension and _mineralité_. The palate has a lovely, slightly waxy texture with notes of lemon thyme, lanolin and sliced white peaches toward the finish, though to be truthful, it doesn't quite convince that it is Grand Cru through and through. I probably prefer subsequent vintages.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739471626297-Vinous_mudan+wines.JPG)

The **1993 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru** comes from an era when the Mugneret sisters were still familiarizing themselves with winemaking following the untimely passing of their father three years earlier. One can see this as a work in progress. A little austere on the nose, it never quite delivers the depth of fruit and concentration of a top Ruchottes. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly "bony" tannins, a little disjointed in style. It shows balsamic-tinged red fruit, with plenty of freshness with pleasing piquancy on the finish. To be frank, this '93 is not a patch on vintages produced in the last decade or so.

The **1996 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru** should be considered a success for the vintage for **Emmanuel Rouget** , delivering pure redcurrant intermixed with kirsch and orange blossom. Some background VA never really interferes. There’s fine delineation here—in fact, the aromatics gain precision with aeration—alongside an agreeable peaty scent. The palate is very well balanced with fine-boned tannins. Soy-tinged red fruit segues into blacker, tarry fruit toward the finish, which has a slight rambunctiousness you occasionally find among 1996 Côte de Nuits. This coheres beautifully in the glass. _À point_. The **2002 Richebourg Grand Cru** from **Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat** is somewhat of a let-down in the scheme of things. Light leafy red fruit, bergamot and rose petals open, it just lacks the presence and density of a Richebourg. You want to say to it, “Stop shilly-shallying around!” The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of warmth, light tannins and some attenuation on the finish. Underwhelming.

The **2003 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru** from **Domaine de la Romanée-Conti** is a wine that I have not tasted since release. It acquits itself supremely well. Slightly deeper in hue than expected, it has a vibrant nose that brushes aside the notorious heat of that summer. Red fruit, candied orange peel, crushed stone and bay leaf are delineated and focused. The palate has excellent balance and tension. Quite finely chiseled tannins lend this RSV a sense of symmetry, with tart sour cherries adding tension and vibrancy on the finish. Exquisite. **Yves Bizot’s 2010 Echézeaux Grand Cru** fails to live up to the hype. I am led to believe that Bizot crafts far superior wines these days. Nevertheless, for the princely sum one pays these days, the 2010 has a nose that is subjugated by the oak barrel, obscuring all sense of terroir. The palate is actually better, with decent balance, black rather than red fruit and hints of brown spice, but again, the oak seems to be fumbled in the winery and renders the finish generic. The **2006 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru** from **Domaine Dujac** has a fragrant, well-defined bouquet with red cherries, crushed strawberries and a cheeky Muscat-like aroma. It is quintessentially RSV though with a possible tincture of botrytis? The palate is medium-bodied and a little riper than perhaps optimal, though a keen line of acidity provides a counterbalance. Quite sensual in style, the 2006 is cohesive with maybe just a slight lack of acidity in the final third. Perhaps it does need more _mineralité_, but you have to admire its purity and panache.

The **2000 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru** from **Domaine Leroy** shows a little browning on the rim. It has a typical Leroy nose that you could argue overrides the terroir expression: sweet red fruit, tomato vine, rural Tuscan scents and hints of pine. It's not profoundly complex, but it is thoroughly enjoyable. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of slightly candied fruit, silky smooth in typical Leroy fashion. Fully mature, with impressive transparency and a dash of allspice on the finish, this Clos de la Roche is drinking perfectly now. Whilst I maintain that Louis-Michel was finding his feet in his first decade at the helm of **Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair** , the **2006 La Romanée Grand Cru** is perhaps his greatest success from his early period and augurs what followed. This is consistent with previous bottles: heavenly scent purity on the nose that seems to embrace and “cuddle” the olfactory senses, with layers of red and blue fruit, violet and peony. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a sumptuous texture and immense depth yet possesses elegance and poise. The satin mouthfeel is irresistible. The **2005 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru** from **Domaine Ponsot** does not fit the billing. Muddled on the nose and simplistic, it never comes near the quality of ethereal vintages like the 1980 or 1985. The palate is just as disappointing, and there is clear lack of _Pinoté_. The 2005 is a wine that seems unable to contend with the level of expectation heaped upon it. Thankfully, there are other superior vintages from Ponsot.

We finish back in Chambolle-Musigny. The **1999 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru** from **de Vogüé** doles out pure dark berry fruit commingling with melted tar. Maybe there's just a touch of TCA? The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite robust and missing a bit of grace. Certainly, it would not be my first port of call if seeking _Pinoté_. I wonder if this is enduring a dumb phase, but then again, it is now 25 years old. Finally, the **1999 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Roumier** is served alongside de Vogüé's Musigny and easily brushes it aside. The Bonnes-Mares has so much more finesse and _mineralité_ than the Musigny, with pure wild strawberry and cranberry fruit, sensual and ripe. The palate is beautifully balanced and powerful, with filigree tannins and impressive density on the finish. It leans toward a more muscular style of Bonnes-Mares, and I would afford it another five or six years in bottle.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1739469500687-Vinous_mudan+chefs.JPG)

_The chefs at Mudan Tempura were as friendly as they were talented._

Mudan Tempura is one of the finest tempura restaurants at which I have eaten, and I have eaten at many over the years. Interestingly, speaking to Taiwanese friends over the following weeks, I got the impression that whilst they admire the restaurant, it would not rank amongst the greats in Japan. They also lamented the price that for Taiwan is eye-wateringly expensive, though actually not outrageous when you compare it to some of London or New York’s destination restaurants. Nevertheless, I could observe the detail in every dish and appreciated that it is no po-faced temple where one has to sit in silent reverence to the chef. I found him chatty and affable, even though we had to resort to my terrible Japanese. I was only in Taiwan for a couple of nights, so I never really got to see the city and sample its culinary delights, but it certainly proved that the Taiwanese can take the tenets of Japanese cuisine and offer a top-quality dining experience.  
  
_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

Vinous Table: ﻿Mudan Tempura, Taipei, Taiwan

Vinous Table: ﻿Mudan Tempura, Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

### [Kinghams Restaurant](https://kinghams-restaurant.co.uk/) 

Oak Cottage

Gomshall Lane

Shere, UK

GU5 9HE

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 31, 2025

### The Food:

Hibiscus and Gin-Soaked Trout with Trout Roe and Crème Fraiche

Seared Sashimi-Grade Tuna with Pickled Fennel and Poached Clementine

Surrey Hills Beef Fillet and Melted Croquette with Jerusalem Artichoke and Confit Leek

Rhubarb and Ginger Oat Crumble with Vanilla Ice Cream

### The Wines:

2020 Domaine Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin Le Chatenière 1er Cru - 93

2016 Pichon-Baron - 96

2009 Sigalas Rabaud - 94

I doubt you have heard of Shere. But I bet you have seen it. You just didn’t realize. Shere is one of this sceptred isle’s most picturesque villages, one that boasts 34 listed buildings, many of them centuries old. Three-quarter-sized, tailor-made for our vertically challenged ancestors with miniature doors and wonky chimneys, it is architecture warped by time. Besides Shere’s splendid public houses, babbling brooks and tearooms, people come here to take a selfie in front of the cottage where _The Holiday_ was filmed. Starring Cameron Diaz, Jude Law and Kate Winslet, this 2006 rom-com has become a Yuletide staple alongside _It’s a Wonderful Life_ and _Elf._ However, that was not Shere’s film debut, since it can be spotted in _Four Weddings_ and _Bridget Jones_, thereby giving the false impression that every single English village is unchanged since Henry VIII. Located just a ten-minute drive from my front door, I often go to Shere for a latte at the Dabbling Duck Café. Before you ask, yes, ducks _do_ dabble in the stream outside. I park my car behind the community hall, turn right, and the café is just down the road…

And that is the problem. I turn _right_. Never _left._ I long assumed there is nothing of note in that direction. Had I turned left and walked 50 meters, I would have come across Kinghams Restaurant. In a sense, this Vinous Table has the same theme as [Le Lion d’Or](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-le-lion-d-or-jan-2025) insofar that you should always seek what lies on your doorstep. Thankfully, a friend suggested Kinghams to chase away the January blues, and I discovered a delightful place to dine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260250662-VT_exterior.JPG)

_The exterior of Kinghams Restaurant._

The restaurant occupies a two-story cottage built in 1620 by William Blackman. At the time, this area of the North Downs was wealthy thanks to the flourishing wool trade, but it was also notorious for local smugglers. It was once known as Hangman’s Cottage. The local hangman would relax here after a day’s work at the gibbet. Despite that macabre backstory, the present building is enchanting, boasting a red brick façade with exposed Tudor beams. A small, weather-beaten side door opens into a cozy reception, where on your left, you can still see the wattle and daub of the original construction. Tables occupy two fire-lit low-ceilinged rooms, and anyone over six foot will have to mind their head. These oak beams are worth close inspection because you notice odd markings and carvings, none of the beams quite matching. Co-owner Jack Forrest Foster told us how these were probably recycled from decommissioned Tudor galleons, information that evoked a strong sense of history.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260316181-VT_interior.JPG)

_The warm, welcoming interior._

Paul Baker opened Kinghams Restaurant not in Tudor times but in 1993, naming it after his grandfather, Paul Kingham, whose bronze bust smokes a pipe in reception. Baker recruited chef Mohssine El Faddi in 2006, who had graduated from the Tante Marie cookery school and worked at Mirabelle in Mayfair, incidentally, one of my favorite restaurants of all time. Foster joined as the front of house in 2012, and eventually the pair bought Paul Baker out, though he still resides just behind the restaurant. The fact that tables were full on a freezing January night after 30 years of trading, not to mention several awards (including AA 2 Rosettes), suggests that Kinghams is doing something right.

The menu is classic European fare. Being outside London, prices are certainly more modest, with starters around £10 and mains £20 to £25.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260383782-VT_trout.JPG)

_Hibiscus and gin-soaked trout with trout roe and crème fraîche._

To begin, hibiscus and gin-soaked trout with trout roe and crème fraîche. I have to confess that I was intrigued by the hibiscus and gin infusion. It works well, especially with the salty trout roe. Perhaps the fish could have been a little more succulent, but this is a novel take.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260506611-Vinous_tuna.JPG)

_Seared sashimi-grade tuna with pickled fennel and poached Clementine_

The seared sashimi-grade tuna with pickled fennel and poached Clementine is a combination that is actually complimentary, against my expectations. The tuna is good rather than great (it would not get in the door if we were in Japan), but it _does_ match the poached clementine extremely well. More thought could go into the presentation, each component of the dish acting as if they had just had an argument and were distancing themselves from each other.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260620449-VT_beef.JPG)

_Surrey Hills beef fillet and melted croquette with Jerusalem artichoke and confit leek_

The Surrey Hills beef fillet and melted croquette with Jerusalem artichoke and confit leek is the best dish. The beef is cooked rare to my request, and I thoroughly enjoy the melted croquette, flavorsome and crispy. The leek is lovely and nicely charred.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738260660034-VT_crumble.JPG)

_Rhubarb and ginger oat crumble with vanilla ice cream_

The rhubarb and ginger oat crumble with vanilla ice cream, instead of custard, is fine. Maybe I would re-adjust for more rhubarb and less crumble, but nevertheless, I am soon scraping the plate.

One aspect about Kinghams that I appreciate is that wine is an important part of the restaurant, not just a means of increasing turnover. The short list is well chosen, with some interesting bottles. Foster himself is a keen wine-lover, though sadly one born in a terrible vintage (1984). The restaurant was open about us bringing three bottles to share with friends with very reasonable corkage.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738261177828-VT_marc+colin+and+pichon.jpg)

The **2020 Saint-Aubin Le Chatenière 1er Cru** from **Domaine Marc Colin et Fils** is delicious. It is actually more powerful on the nose than I recall from barrel, with scents of yellow plum, Clementine and slightly less of the sea spray that I noticed previously, Colin’s signature subtle reduction lends this Chardonnay tension. The palate is quite intense yet beautifully balanced with admirable _mineralité_. Hints of oyster shell mix with melon and (again) Clementine on the finish. My neighbor professed not liking white wine, but five minutes later, he asked me to refill his glass. We then move to Bordeaux. The **2016 Pichon Baron** is outstanding, powerful on the nose with blackberry, mocha and just a hint of dark chocolate that emerges after an hour. The palate is weighty in the mouth but delivers real elegance, graphite-tinged black fruit fanning out gloriously on the finish. It is probably three years away from when I would advise opening bottles.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738335953199-Vinous_sigalas.jpg)

My New Year’s resolution is to drink more Sauternes. So, I open a **2009 Sigalas Rabaud** for the occasion. This is similar to the bottle a few months back with orange pith, macadamia nuts and saffron on the nose. There’s perhaps a little more creaminess in this bottle. The palate is intense and viscous with a keen bead of acidity. This is not a subtle Sauternes, but it delivers gorgeous butterscotch and vanilla pod on the long finish. Give it another couple of years.

This is a perfect dinner to start 2025. Kinghams is no culinary pinnacle, and maybe that is partly because on this evening Faddi is not working in the kitchen. I would like to return and see what he can do. The presentation is adequate, although I feel it could be improved with just a few tweaks. But Kinghams is not criminally expensive, and dining out is more than what you eat. The building foments a wonderful rural atmosphere away from the hustle and bustle of life, and the sense of history is palpable in every nook and cranny (and there are plenty of those). Service is outstanding from start to finish. Stepping outside, our feet crunch into a layer of snow, as if we were walking into a rom-com. I looked to check Cameron or Jude were not walking hand in hand down the street.

Oh, and the location of the cottage from _The Holiday_?

It does not exist.

That cottage was built on a set.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Kinghams Restaurant, Shere, UK

Vinous Table: Kinghams Restaurant, Shere, UK (Jan 2025)

### [Le Lion d’Or](https://www.leliondor-arcins.fr/) 

11 Rte de Pauillac

33460 Arcins,

France

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 24, 2025

**The Food:**

Pheasant maison terrine

Lièvre à la royale (royal hare) with truffle tagliatelle

**The Wine:**

2016 Mauvésin Barton - 91

There is a restaurant nearby whose doors you never entered, whose food you have never eaten. Over time, familiarity bred indifference. Every time you walked or drove past, you rebuffed its silent entreaties beckoning you inside. Eventually, indifference metastasized into scorn. You ignored it for so many years that the reason for your apathy has been long forgotten. In any case, its proximity insinuates that its cuisine is substandard. After all, the clue is in the phrase…_destination_ restaurants. We travel afar to be rewarded with fine dishes. The journey is part of the dining experience, building anticipation, and you don’t get that by nipping ‘round the corner for a bite.

Don’t you?

Le Lion d’Or is located nowhere near where I live. However, I have passed this restaurant hundreds of times driving up and down the D2 artery that threads its way through the Left Bank appellations. It lies on a gentle swerve between Margaux and Saint-Julien in the village of Arcins. I always spot it from the corner of my eye. But it is viewed not so much as a restaurant, but a signpost informing how much longer before I reach my destination.

During my week in Bordeaux in December 2024, a friend and gourmand who goes under the _nom de plume_ of Cortex suggested Le Lion d’Or as a place to eat that evening. It came out of the blue and piqued my curiosity. Why not? At the very least it would validate my stubborn refusal to patronize the restaurant. Instead, it proved that I had willfully ignored a wonderful place to dine for no rational reason except my own obstinacy.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737645513487-Vinous_lion+dor+facade.JPG)

_The facade of Le Lion d'Or._

Being December, the facade is lit up with Christmas decorations twinkling in the night sky. The reception desk lies opposite a kitsch fake Christmas tree overdressed in baubles and tinsel, underneath which a toy electric train made figures of eight through a plastic snowscape. The interior décor is old school, an augury for the dishes served. Modernity is left at the front door.

The friendly maître d’, who has worked here for fifteen years, escorts us to our table. The clientele this Wednesday evening comprises locals—a family celebrating their lad’s tenth birthday and two couples, one playing music on an iPhone at an annoying volume until the woman seated behind them snaps and gives a sharp vocal rebuke that shatters the restaurant’s convivial atmosphere. For a moment, I fear that I will have to break up fisticuffs on the opposite side…

As for the food, this is real, old-school French cooking, unchanged since the Postwar era (probably). I half-expect Escoffier to be in the kitchen. Chalked on the blackboard are several entrées and mains: a _cassolette_ of _l’escargots_, _boudins aux pommes_, _pigeon rôti_, _joue de porc_, etc. Our choice is made as soon as Cortex spots the _lièvre à la royale_.

“We have to eat this! Royal hare. You rarely find this dish in French restaurants.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737645597722-Vinous_lion+dor+terrine.JPG)

_The maison terrine made an excellent first course._

Before the main event, we share the maison terrine that turns out to be one of the best I’ve eaten in a long time. Using pheasant and pork as the meat with foie gras, I found this less fatty compared to others. This example is relatively light but delicious, especially the golden jelly made from veal stock that I liberally spoon over the terrine to lend a little sweetness.

Lièvre à la Royale originates from Périgord or Orléanais, according to the _Larousse Gastronomique,_ and gained popularity when the newspaper columnist Aristide Couteaux published a recipe in _Le Temps_. There is an apocryphal story that this dish was invented for King Louis XIV since the Sun King suffered terrible toothache and could only chew soft dishes, though disappointingly, this is now disputed. The recipe for _lièvre à la royale_ at Lion d’Or uses two hares: one for the flesh and one for the stuffing (_farce_ in French). This is mixed with the giblets, foie gras and black truffles, with the hares’ blood used to combine ingredients. It is then cooked slowly.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737645621877-Vinous_lion+dor+hare.JPG)

_Though a classic French dish, lièvre à la royale is rarely found in most restaurants._

Ballotines arrive. They look formidable, a glazed deep brown color that could be described as…shall I put it… fecal? I guess I have become accustomed to vividly colored, aesthetically appealing works of art meticulously arranged on a plate with tweezers. The ballotine looks as if it is paddling in brown sludge and yes, yes, yes, I am using vernacular that is putting you off going within ten miles of the place. I understand why one person on my social media timeline wrote that it looked “disgusting.”

_Au contraire_.

Sure, over the first couple of mouthfuls, the unctuous sauce almost overwhelms the senses with its bloody goodness. It does not take long to adjust, and thereafter, I am enamored by the delicious hare whose neutrality and texture act as a perfect foil for the sauce, aided by the side order of black truffle tagliatelle.

As I realize that I am about to swallow the shot that killed bunny, I wonder whether this hare hopped around Pauillac or Margaux and ask the waiter where it comes from.

“_D’Angleterre_,” he replies.

So here I am, eating classic French cuisine courtesy of English hunters. Cortex later informs me that this is because in France, demand currently exceeds supply. The shortfall has been exacerbated by the incessant rain that depleted the hare population (just as it has done with grouse in these fair isles, as described in my [Grouse Club](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-grouse-club-bouchon-racine-london-uk-oct-2024) article). Restaurants must source hare from overseas, though the UK is actually renowned for the quality of its hare, not that you see it often.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1737645721695-Vinous_lion+dor+mauvesin.JPG)

The accompanying wine matches the hare with style. The **2016 Mauvésin Barton** , from the Barton family’s Moulis-en-Médoc estate, is in fine form. It has lost the floral elements on the nose that I observed previously, the fruit turning a little darker with blackberry, bilberry and touches of raspberry. It is a little disjointed at first but melds together with aeration. The palate, again, demands decanting to really coalesce. Like many 2016 Left Bank wines, there is no shortage of fruit, although it requires air to shave just a _soupçon_ of rusticity. With impressive depth on the finish, this Mauvésin Barton is reaching its drinking plateau and will continue to give pleasure over the next decade.

Tummy stuffed, I eschew the tempting desserts. By the time my espresso arrives, rapprochement between the warring couples has been reached and bizarrely, they now seem lifelong friends. The restaurant sings “Happy Birthday” to the boy. I like to think that he celebrated his tenth orbit around the sun with _lièvre à la royale_ while his friends made do with Big Macs.

Le Lion d’Or is unapologetically traditional and a little quirky, the cooking perhaps too rich or unsophisticated for those accustomed to Michelin-starred finery. This is hearty, stomach-filling French food that cares little for fad or fashion. That’s why I fell in love with it. The next time you pass that café, that bistro or that restaurant, the one that has bred indifference, imagine that you are passing for the very first time.

Go and open their door. Venture inside. Give it a chance.

You never know what might be lying on your doorstep.

_© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Le Lion d’Or, Arcins, France

Vinous Table: Le Lion d’Or, Arcins, France (Jan 2025)

### [Maison François](https://www.maisonfrancois.london/)

34 Duke Street

St James's

London, UK

SW1Y 6DF

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 3, 2025

**The Food:**

Maison Terrine and Gougères

Poulet Rôti Entier with Salad Leaves and Pommes Frîtes

Tarte au Citron

### The Wine:

2016 Rauzan-Ségla Ségla 91

Punishment of some kind is deserved because I failed to write about Maison François until now.

Why?

Well, it belongs to a cadre of London restaurants that treats wine lovers with respect, and naturally, those should be prioritized in this parish. Instead of willing cash-cows herded in to suffer egregious mark-ups of whatever vino was being discounted at the cash and carry, this is a place that wants you to enjoy decent wine at a decent price with very decent food. Opened in September 2021 and located just a five-minute walk from Piccadilly and St. James Street, Maison François is a cavernous two-floor all-day brasserie. And it really is “all day.” You can pop in at breakfast for a glass of champagne, or between 2pm and 5:30pm to take advantage of a £15 steak frîtes, or for a slap-up dinner in the evening, or a cheeky late-night nightcap before catching the last tube home.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735902962710-maison+francois+interior_copy.JPG)_The large yet cozy dining room at Maison François_

On a Wednesday lunchtime, I found the restaurant filled to the rafters with a mixture of office workers, families with kids (and a dog catered for with its own bowl of water) and those wanting classy dining without the froufrou. It is noisy and bustling. Though not excessively loud, Maison François is not a place for a romantic dinner where you want to whisper sweet nothings. The décor has a tasteful Art Deco theme, high ceilings, walls bathed in a warm orangey glow and a clock stolen from an early-fifties Hitchcock movie. The room is cleverly divided into sections, which enhances the intimacy, lest it might feel too much like a large cafeteria. You can easily see why Maison François is a popular venue for merchants to host tastings and even take over the entire premises for a _La Paulée_. The basement, Frank’s, accommodates a more casual pescatarian deli counter that turns into a wine bar at night.

The menu comprises classic French bistro dishes: maison terrine, onion soup, scallops, côte de boeuf, pistachio madeleines, beurre blanc, tarte citron, Paris-Brest and so forth. Nothing here is going to challenge the culinary horizons of those _au fait_ with Gallic cuisine. You are on safe ground, which is why I took my mother here, as she has dietary restrictions. It is not quite Michelin standard because there is not the finesse or artistry to warrant a star. However, dishes feel authentic, and there is clearly quality control for everything coming out of the open kitchen at the rear—some achievement given the number of covers. Service, courtesy of a fleet of smartly attired waiters, is absolutely top-notch including the sommelier, our chap having previously worked at [La Trompette](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-la-trompette-london-uk-aug-2018).

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903018169-terrine_copy.JPG)_Maison pâté en croute_

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903050252-gougeres_copy.JPG)_Gougères_

I start with a _pâté en croute_. The meat is fresh with just the right amount of jelly underneath a perfectly flaky pastry (I forego the cornichons—I just do not get them, and they taste horrible). Also, a small plate of fluffy _gougères_, delicious even if it is a challenge stopping the rich and warm Comté dribbling down your chin.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903112817-poulet+entier_copy.JPG)_Poulet rôti entier_

For mains, I share _poulet rôti entier_, accompanied by salad and fries. This is actually _poulet noir_, my favorite, the meat a little darker and gamier than regular chicken. It comes with perfectly crisp skin and plenty of _jus_ to moisten it. This is the nearest I can get to the famous _poulet de bresse_ in Beaune without using a passport. I should also add that the chips are cooked and seasoned to absolute perfection. Mum’s fresh halibut comes with a _beurre rouge_ and winter leaves, the _poisson_ fresh and flaky, cooked _à point_.

The wine list arrives in a small, soft leather book. It is not an enormous range, but there are plenty of vinous avenues to explore. Obviously, there is a Gallic leaning, however the curious oenophile will find plenty of grower champagne, a decent Spanish and South African selection, and a smattering from around the New World. Wines are thoughtfully chosen. If you want to splash out, then you can. Otherwise, there are plenty of very decent bottles at reasonable prices with a little age, for example, a 2012 Cantemerle or 2014 Tronquoy Lalande. There are also a number of tempting whites and reds by the glass. Furthermore, as this is a wine-friendly establishment, they are very accommodating for those wishing to bring their own and pay corkage, as the table next to mine had done. As always, telephone in advance and speak to the team.

> 

> > >

I was taking it easy on libations, so I order a glass of 2016 Ségla. What I did not expect was our sommelier to stagger toward our table with a magnificent imperial, another bit of theatre. This bottle came directly from the château via a UK merchant, and it is drinking beautifully. Black cherries, cassis and violets on the nose immediately nail this as a Margaux, quite plush and seductive. The palate has wonderful balance and saturated tannins. It’s silky smooth with a sweet but poised finish that slips down the throat with ease. This is exactly what second labels should be for.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903156368-tarte+citron_copy.JPG)_Tarte au citron_

A dessert trolly is wheeled out for us to browse everything in the flesh. This is a lovely touch of retro theatre, which is what you deserve when paying a bit more. My _tarte au citron_ is light and tangy, with just the right amount of sweetness. The accompanying ice cream is fabulous, with actual specks of vanilla. Proper ice cream.

Maison François comes highly recommended, especially for larger groups looking for a livelier lunch or dinner with quality French cooking accompanied by decent wines. My mum liked it because it makes you feel like you're eating somewhere special but without fuss or pretension. There is a relaxed vibe, and though I would not exactly describe it as cheap—this is St. James’s after all—the standard is a cut above the rest. It nods to the past, and yet it feels contemporary, with plenty of Gallic style.

Forgive me for not writing about Maison François earlier. I trust that I am now spared whatever punishment is deserved for my oversight.

_© 2025 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Maison François, London, UK

Vinous Table: Maison François, London, UK (Jan 2025)

### [The Polo Bar](https://www.ralphlauren.com/global-polo-bar)

1 E 55th Street

New York, NY 10022

Tel: +1 212-207-8562

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | NOVEMBER 01, 2024

### The Food:

Pigs in a Blanket; Spicy Brown Mustard

The Polo Bar Crab Cake; Thinly Crusted with Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce

Tuna Tartare; Avocado, Mustard Greens & Crispy Shallots with Soy Ginger Dressing

Santa Barbara Salad; Gem Lettuce, Avocado, Orange, Cilantro, Basil, Vermont Creamery Feta & Taggiasca Olives with White Balsamic Vinaigrette

Classic Caesar Salad; Gem Lettuce, Country Bread Croutons with Shaved Pecorino

Ralph’s Corned Beef Sandwich; Melted Swiss on Marbled Rye with Coleslaw

Loch Duart Salmon; Romanesco, Sugar Snap Peas & Green Beans with Meyer Lemon Butter Sauce

Dover Sole; Pan-Seared with Meyer Lemon Butter Sauce

Veal Milanese; Arugula, Fennel, Red Onion, Radishes & Cherry Tomato

The Polo Bar Santa Fe Burger; Caramelized Onions, Barbeque Sauce & Cheddar Cheese with Hand-Cut Fries

Filet Mignon; Onion Rings

Coconut Cake: Passion Fruit Sorbet

Ice Cream Sundae; Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramelized Pecans, Whipped Cream & Warm Chocolate Sauce

**The Wines:**

| 2019 Occidental Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine | 97 |
| 2021 DuMOL Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard | 100 |
| 2021 Cobb Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard | 96 |

The Polo Bar is one of my favorite spots in New York City. I realize that may sound somewhat pretentious, given that reservations are very hard to get. Even so, I love the Polo Bar because it screams of Americana and reminds me of my first trips to New York City as a kid when a few nights in Manhattan were the highlight of our family vacations. Back then, I was mesmerized by the raw energy of the city. I still am. For this article, I combined food and wines from several recent dinners.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730487998080-Caesar_VTNov012024.jpg)

_Classic Caesar Salad; Gem Lettuce, Country Bread Croutons with Shaved Pecorino_

The Polo Bar’s unassuming private entrance on East 55th Street is easy to miss. Ralph Lauren’s 5th Avenue store once occupied the corner space, but it closed in 2017. Reservations are absolutely essential, as the Polo Bar does not accept walk-ins. Guests are whisked into a sleek, elegant bar that is packed most of the time. I prefer the small back room, which is more private. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a drink before dinner. Stairs lead down to a bustling dining room decorated in the classic Ralph Lauren style. The tables are tightly spaced, and the acoustics are vibrant. In other words, the Polo Bar is probably not the best place for guests seeking quiet or privacy. On a recent visit, we were seated close to a well-known actor’s table. Her voice, undoubtedly well-trained, carried easily across the room.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488009680-Tuna_VTNov012024.jpg)

_Tuna Tartare; Avocado, Mustard Greens & Crispy Shallots with Soy Ginger Dressing_

Diners will find a menu full of American comfort food classics, with a handful of more contemporary dishes mixed in. There aren’t a whole lot of surprises, though. That’s not what the Polo Bar is about. I come here mostly for the burger, occasionally fish, and then some sort of salad, so I feel better about the desserts later on. Because it is such a favorite of celebrities and the A-list crowd, it would be easy to dismiss the Polo Bar as more of a scene than a serious restaurant to think the food plays second fiddle. That is a mistake. I have always found that the Polo Bar’s kitchen delivers on the purely culinary level. Service is consistently outstanding. For example, when it’s just two of us, dishes like salads and burgers are split without us having to ask. The sommeliers are well-versed in the wines and a pleasure to talk shop with.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488026035-Crabcake_VTNov012024.jpg)

_The Polo Bar Crab Cake; Thinly Crusted with Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce_

Among the starters, Pigs in a Blanket is a fine choice for sharing. Ralph’s Corned Beef Sandwich, served on marbled rye, is as classic as classic can be. It is extremely rich, though, and best enjoyed as a shared appetizer. I can’t imagine finishing an entire portion. My preference, though, is for the seafood dishes. The Crab Cake is another fine choice. The flavorful Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce is a perfect foil for the sweet crab meat. The Tuna Tartare is delicious, light and also a nice departure from the more typical dishes that form the core of the menu. I order it often.

The salads are terrific. The Caesar is unfussy, nicely done and delicious. Who doesn’t love a good Caesar? The Santa Barbara Salad has a lot more going on in terms of its ingredients. Tender gem lettuce, avocado, orange, cilantro and basil all confer freshness that is a nice balance to the richer dishes on the menu.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488039390-Burger_VTNov12024.jpg)

_The Polo Bar Santa Fe Burger; Caramelized Onions, Barbeque Sauce & Cheddar Cheese with Hand-Cut Fries_

Carnivores will find plenty of options. The Polo Bar Burger is a must. Served with all the accompaniments and a generous portion of fries, the burger is a meal on its own. From time to time, the burger is offered in a few variants. The Santa Fe, which features caramelized onion, barbecue sauce and cheddar cheese, is one of my favorites.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488051426-Filet_VTNov012024.jpg)

_Filet Mignon; Onion Rings_

The Veal Milanese literally spills off the plate. I can’t imagine anyone eating all of this alone. A salad of arugula, fennel and cherry tomato is refreshing, but this is a big plate of food. For those who want to splurge, the Filet Mignon is a fine choice. Like everything here, it is cooked and seasoned to perfection. The onion rings are impossible to resist.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488063046-Veal_VTNov10224.jpg)

_Veal Milanese; Arugula, Fennel, Red Onion, Radishes & Cherry Tomato_

There are plenty of choices for those who prefer fish over meat. The Loch Duart Salmon, accompanied by romanesco, sugar snap peas and green beans, is tasty. The Dover Sole is served completely cleaned and fileted, making it very easy to eat. It’s another spurge item on the menu, but worth it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488073187-DuMol_VTNov012024.jpg)

_DuMOL’s 2021 Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard is a total stunner_

The wine list is extensive and priced in line with Manhattan standards. For some reason, on my last few visits, I have chosen Sonoma Pinot Noirs. That’s probably because the wines offer superb quality at prices that I find reasonable. **The 2019 Occidental Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine** is every bit as magnificent as it has always been. Soft, plush contours wrap around a core of dark-toned fruit in a ravishing, deep Pinot endowed with tons of character. The Cuvée Catherine, from the Kistler family’s vineyards in Bodega, captures the magic of the West Sonoma Coast, namely the ability to deliver intense fruit richness and flavor are relatively modest alcohol levels. What a wine!

**DuMOL’s 2021 Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard** is one of the most profound, riveting wines I have ever had from any region. I knew it the minute I tasted it. Subsequent tastings have only confirmed that initial impression. Deep, racy and layered, the 2021 captures all the textural richness and vibrancy that are such signatures of cooler-climate districts in Sonoma. How can a wine be opulent yet also light on its feet? The MacIntyre is all that and more. It’s the sort of wine I wish every Vinous reader could taste. Unforgettable. **Ross Cobb’s 2021 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard** has shut quite a bit since I tasted it earlier in the year. That’s probably a good thing for its long-term prospects. For now, though, readers need to be patient, as the 2021 needs time. It remains an exquisite, crystalline Pinot of the highest level. Chalk, mint, slate and orange peel cut through a core of red-toned fruit. This is an especially nervy style that will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, cool-climate Pinots.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1730488088007-Sundae_VTNov012024.jpg)

_Ice Cream Sundae; Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramelized Pecans, Whipped Cream & Warm Chocolate Sauce_

Desserts are suitably over the top. I can’t say no to the Coconut Cake. It is rich, moist and utterly decadent. The Ice Cream Sundae is a must. The only real question is whether to share or not. Tough question. Caramelized pecans, whipped cream and warm chocolate sauce are perfect accompaniments for the vanilla ice cream. One bite is enough. Well, maybe two.

So, is the Polo Bar worth the hype? It absolutely is.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: The Polo Bar, New York, NY

Vinous Table: The Polo Bar, New York, NY (Nov 2024)

### [Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine](https://www.bouchonracine.com/)

66 Cowcross Street

London EC1M 6BP

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 25, 2024

**The Food** :

Jambon de Bayonne with Charentais melon

Calf’s brains with black butter and capers

Rabbit with mustard sauce and smoked bacon

Milk-fed lambs’ kidneys with peas à la Française

Tête de veau with sauce Ravigote

Pork chop, piperade with sweetcorn and tarragon

**The Wines:**

| 2013 Pewsey Vale Vineyard Riesling The Contours | 88 |
| 2021 Danbury Ridge Wine Estate Chardonnay | 90 |
| 1962 Marqués de Riscal Gran Riserva | 92 |
| 1948 Latour | 91 |
| 1966 Latour | 97 |
| 1982 Latour | 99 |
| 1990 Latour | 95 |

Bellamy’s

[Brat](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-brat-london-uk-aug-2018)

[Otto’s](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-otto-s-london-united-kingdom-nov-2019)

[Brett Graham chez Lord Bruce](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-grouse-club-fourth-edition-london-uk-nov-2020)

[Hunan](https://vinous.com/articles/grouse-club-at-hunan-london-uk-feb-2022)

[Wilton’s](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-wilton-s-london-uk-mar-2023)

These five restaurants and one abode have hosted previous editions of Grouse Club dinners. Grouse Club started from a whimsical idea. Three friends shared a passion for the bird, fine wine and conversation late into the night.

It’s a blend of camaraderie and sealing years of friendship.

Grouse Club has gained a reputation across the wine community to the point where two places were auctioned for charity this year with The Stuart Broad Appeal in aid of Motor Neurone Disease. In fact, one guest had read about Grouse Club on Vinous and wanted to join the fun. All I can say is thank you for your generosity.

This year, we decided that there was only one restaurant that befitted the grouse – [Bouchon Racine](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-bouchon-racine-london-uk-apr-2024).

Just one problem…

… there was no grouse.

As if the game bird had enough problems avoiding bullets, the wet and cold spring on the moors decimated breeding. Exacerbating the problem, grouse are becoming tolerant to a pellet that inoculates against a worm that kills adult birds. Plus, there are depleted numbers of heather beetles, their main food source. A combination of this means that in 2024, a vast number of shoots were canceled to rebuild numbers, and chef Harry Harris had to provide alternatives.

Having regaled Bouchon Racine, there is little point in going over the menu again. Suffice it to say that this is your Lyon bistro brought to central London. I have just photographed some of the highlights below…

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729877454654-rabbit_copy.JPG)_

_This rabbit with mustard sauce and smoked bacon was packed with flavor, and the sauce was not too strong on the old “Dijon” that could interfere with the wine._

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729877528681-kidneys_copy.JPG)_

_These milk-fed lambs’ kidneys with peas à la Française are rich and gamey, the closest we could get to recreating our missing grouse._

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729877587821-pork+chop_copy.JPG)_

_These pork chops came with piperade with sweetcorn and tarragon. Fabulous._

We commenced with a **2013 Riesling The Contours** from **Pewsey Vale Vineyard** in the Eden Valley. This has a silvery hue. It offers fine delineation and is quite lively. The 2013 offers subtle petrol scents mixed with melon and lemon sherbet. The palate has notable acidity and is sharp and steely for an Australian Riesling. Sour lemon and lime towards the finish; it is difficult to see how or indeed whether this will evolve with continued bottle age. The **2021 Chardonnay** from **Danbury Ridge Wine Estate** was poured blind and replicated its showing from earlier this year. With yellow plum, Clementine and freshly sliced lime on the nose, it could pass as a decent Saint-Aubin. The palate is fresh and well-balanced with a keen bead of acidity, showing similar tension to the Pewsey Vale Riesling but with more substance and grip on the finish. Essex’s finest! Commencing the reds, a **1962 Gran Riserva** from **Marqués de Riscal** was opened. This Rioja offers brown spices, oxtail and tobacco on the nose. It is fully mature yet still well-defined and a bit ragged yet charming. The palate is a little Burgundian in style, with a core of sweet red fruit mixed with leather, sage and truffle. It is a more elegant Gran Riserva, softened by time, though it just attenuates on the finish, whereas a superior vintage like the 1964 would possess more substance. Still, well-kept bottles will continue to give pleasure.

The main event was the quartet of Château Latour vintages. Exceptionally well-stocked cellars often have bottles that always show splendidly, even better than those poured at the property. This collection is filled with enticing bottles, and I was very grateful for them.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729877663223-latour+bottles_copy.JPG)

The **1948 Latour** was the first vintage to be poured, and this time, I had a proper glass. (Unfortunately, when I had drunk this 12 months earlier, the waiter accidentally omitted my glass while I was ensconced in conversation and only realized once the entire bottle had been poured.) Not this time. The 1948 is rather introverted at first, though it improves with aeration, a mixture of red and black fruit, leather, black truffle and cedar. It is not a powerful bouquet, yet there is presence. The palate is marked by relatively lighter tannins for this particular First Growth, black fruit laced with pencil shavings and undergrowth. Maybe there is just a little dilution on the finish, but you cannot deny its refinement and statesmanlike personality. Bottles should be opened unless you are lucky enough to find larger formats. The **1966 Latour** has been one of my favorite vintages from the decade for many years. This is one of the finest examples that I have encountered. The bouquet is captivating: blackberry, pencil box, touches of blue fruit, exquisite delineation and focus, gaining stature with every swirl. The palate is typically 1966, sturdy and structured, though time has softened those tannins, making it a little less aloof than a decade ago. There is unerring symmetry to this Latour with a detailed, classically styled, off-dry finish that beckons you back for more.

The **1982 Latour** is a formidable wine. I really don’t know what I can add to previous tasting notes apart from it is a majestic, powerful, regal First Growth that is endowed with stunning symmetry and, rare for Latour, sensuality. At 42 years of age, it is unquestionably the most consistent of the five First Growths, and only Mouton Rothschild can trump it. Then again, unlike Latour, you never know what kind of 1982 Mouton you will open. Finally, the **1990 Latour** is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum poured in Bordeaux in 2019, though still extremely long and composed on the finish. It is drinking perfectly now and will continue to do so for many years.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729877729018-lord+bruce_copy.jpg)

_Does the wine go in here? No, Lord Bruce, the mouth is much better. Pictured with fellow Grouse Club member Gareth “Marathon Man” Birchley._

The 7th edition of Grouse Club was over. Bouchon Racine continues to serve outstanding Lyonnais-inspired dishes and attracts gourmands from afar. Indeed, the team from Noble Rot was at the adjacent table and probably wished they had booked a different day.

Frankly, there are far greater problems in the world than no longer being able to dress in tweed and pay an extortionate amount to blast a defenseless bird. Whatever happens, we will uphold _our_ annual tradition even if hunters cannot maintain theirs.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

### [Cornus](http://www.cornusrestaurant.co.uk/)

27c Eccleston Pl

London SW1W 9NF

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 18, 2024

**The Food** :

Sea bass tartar, oyster cream, green apple and shiso

Hand-picked Devon crab, Hass avocado sorbet with wasabi and finger lime

Cornish bluefin tuna, late summer tomatoes, blood peach, smoked almond pesto and basil

Roast Newlyn cod, persillade of Scottish girolles, line-caught squid, crisp potatoes and Alsace bacon

Surrey Hills fallow deer, red cabbage and beetroot with red shiso

Chocolate barquette, Mekonga 70%, Sicilian pistachio and salted caramel

Apricot and chamomile millefeuille, Pompona vanilla, Crème Diplomat and apricot sauce

**The Wines:**

| 2022 Skouras Assyrtiko Wild Ferment | 88 |
| 2004 Château Margaux | 95 |

Cornus: The most important restaurant opening in London for wine lovers in 2024?

Cornus ticks all the boxes, plus a few more that you hadn’t considered. If you want Michelin-starred food with a stupendous bottle of fermented grape juice, then Cornus is hard to beat. No, it is not going to be cheap. What _is_ these days? Even Colonel Sanders upped the prices of his meal deal. But unlike KFC, you are going to want to return.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261549037-cornus+interior+%281%29.jpg)

_The Cornus interior_

Cornus has two touchstones, restaurants cherished by London’s wine community over the years. First, The Square. Philip Howard’s Mayfair restaurant once played host to the glitterati, Princess Di, Bill Clinton and one Robert Parker Jr. on a rare excursion to Blighty (KFC was fully booked.) Most of all, it was the venue for countless wine dinners hosted by merchants and friends over many years. Howard and co-owner Nigel Platts-Martin sold The Square several years ago. Cornus could lay claim to be The Square 2.0 even if, to the best of my knowledge, neither Platts-Martin nor Howard is directly involved. However, chef Gary Foulkes worked alongside Howard at The Square. His approach to modern European cuisine clearly takes a leaf out of his former employer’s book, the lobster ravioli proudly namechecking his former paymaster’. Those familiar with Howard’s cooking will know what to expect: decadent aromas and flavors, meticulous sourcing, a presentation that would not look out of place in The National Gallery, and a meal that guarantees you will not leave hungry.

The second reference point is [Medlar](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-medlar-london-uk-jun-2022), which is still going strong. Like The Square, David O’Connor (ex-[Chez Bruce](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-chez-bruce-london-uk-aug-2019) and, again, The Square) and Joe Mercer Nairne’s King’s Road restaurant is adored by oenophiles, and I have rung its doorbell brandishing a bottle on numerous occasions. Perhaps it is a surprise that it took 15 years for a sister restaurant to appear. Medlar had an unenviable knack for nurturing some fantastic sommeliers who would gain renown only to be headhunted for a more famed restaurant. Melania Battiston was one such sommelier who returned from a position in Europe to join the team at Cornus. She confesses that she missed putting together lists and working the floor; it is great to see her back.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261617009-cauliflower+tartlet_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Cauliflower tartlet_

Having not read reviews after Cornus had opened ten weeks earlier, I naively anticipated something along the lines of Medlar. But Cornus clearly aims higher. Medlar is an excellent local bistro. Cornus is a destination restaurant like The Square. It is not cheap. At £155 per person for a seven-course tasting menu, you are going to get a hefty bill with the petits fours. On the other hand, balking the trend towards compulsory tasting menus, it offers à la carte, which means the tasting menu can be tweaked if desired. Certainly, the tasting menu is the best bang for the buck.

Cornus is located in Eccleston Yard in a repurposed warehouse. Diners catch a private lift to the rooftop that lends it a penthouse vibe, cut off from the metropolitan hustle and bustle. There are around 70 covers, including a private dining room. The interior design is pared back with white walls and spartan décor. It is not too noisy but foments a feeling of being somewhere special. The center is dominated by a large bar serving cocktails and pre-prandial sharpeners. Arriving early at 7pm, the restaurant was empty. I wondered whether Cornus suffered the Friday loss of trade since many people work from home that day. But soon, every table was filled with what looked like moneyed locals, a couple brandishing bespoke wine carriers. One woman brought her two dogs, and the waiter did not hesitate to provide a couple of bowls.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261698549-sea+bass+tartar_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Sea bass tartar, oyster cream, green apple and shiso_

Foulkes’ cooking is exceptional. I was unprepared for dishes at this level. Philip Howard always delivers flavor, flavor and more flavor on top. It sounds banal, but the food at Cornus is just delicious. You rue the final mouthful and are already mentally imagining a return so that you can eat it again.  

Upon being seated, fluffy gougeres filled with Gruyere land on our table, warm, light and comforting. There is also a choice of focaccia and sourdough bread, the latter spongy with a lovely crust. A tiny cauliflower tartlet with 96-month Parmesan is a pop-it-in-your-mouth morsel of loveliness, flanked by squid ink wafers that harks back to The Square.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261734165-crab_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Hand-picked Devon crab, Hass avocado sorbet with wasabi and finger lime_

The sea bass tartar is sensational–off the charts–one of the dishes of the year. The fish is half steamed and half roasted, mixed with oyster cream and white soy, shards of Granny Smith, chive and red Shiso leaf on top. The combination of freshness and umami, in particular, is fabulous. This might have been my favorite dish not only that night but also in 2024.

Fortunately, the following courses retain an exceptional standard. The hand-picked crab from Devon is combined with Hass avocado sorbet, known for its creamy texture, and green apple sorbet and wasabi purée, the latter freshly ground rather than squirted from a tube, which makes all the difference. There is just a touch of finger lime under a transparent jelly. I wonder if the wasabi might overwhelm the crab, but it is pitched just perfectly, refreshing the senses with its sharpness and controlled fire.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261769835-bluefin+tuna_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Cornish bluefin tuna, late summer tomatoes, blood peach, smoked almond pesto and basil_

The Cornish bluefin tuna is served with late summer tomatoes from Hubert Lacoste in Provence (bloomin’ expensive, but the apotheosis of all things tomato), blood peach, smoked almond pesto and basil. The tuna is tender and moist, the tomatoes exquisite, and the peaches lend sweetness. This is a perfect combination of intense flavors delivered with a lightness of touch.

Just a cursory glance at the roast Newlyn cod, and you know it is going to hit all the right gustatory buttons. Its almost iridescent whiteness, that perfectly browned surface, and the effortless way it flakes away with the fork make it a standout. The persillade of Scottish girolles and line-caught squid are outstanding foils for the neutrality of the fish, and the crisp potatoes and Alsace bacon lend salinity.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261833141-cod_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Roast Newlyn cod, persillade of Scottish girolles, line-caught squid, crisp potatoes and Alsace bacon_

I swap duck for the Surrey Hills fallow deer because I am in the mood for red meat, which I generally avoid these days, but my metabolism is subliminally suggesting a top-up of iron. Also, it is a chance to eat something local. The deer had been aged for 21 days, seared and oven-roasted. It is rich and gamey, so it is not a dish I would choose every day. But it makes a change and partners the intensity of the red cabbage, beetroot and beetroot purée well, with the addition of red shiso leaves and cinnamon lending subtle spiciness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261868709-deer_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Surrey Hills fallow deer, red cabbage and beetroot with red shiso_

The desserts are outstanding. Cornus recruited rising star and ex-[Cornerstone](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-cornerstone-london-uk-sep-2022) Kelly Cullen as the pastry chef. The chocolate barquette uses Mekonga, 70% dark chocolate from Vietnam, which is glorious. Partnered with the Sicilian pistachio and salted caramel ice cream, it is an obvious choice, but if it works, then why change it? I have to resist licking my plate. The complimentary dessert of apricot and chamomile millefeuille with Pompona vanilla, crème diplomat and apricot sauce is fine, although the millefeuille was just a little dry.

At a time when restaurants are cutting back on corkage, which incidentally is their right, Cornus does not treat wine lovers as cash cows limited to egregiously marked-up wines whose raison d’être is to offset the marginal profit on food. They offer a very reasonable £45 corkage. In return, I strongly recommend foraging their wine list. Battiston has assiduously assembled an eclectic range that sees classics rubbing shoulders with hipster names ([see my Four Horsemen review](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-four-horsemen-brooklyn-ny-jun-2024)), all at various price points. There is also an enticing selection by the glass.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261907771-chocolate_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Chocolate barquette, Mekonga 70%, Sicilian pistachio and salted caramel_

After a complimentary glass of Pol Roger, I order another wine by the glass, the **2022 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko** from **Skouras** in Nemea. “Wild ferment?” I ask. “Not _too_ funky, is it?” Battiston reassures that it is not too “wild” and, indeed, it has a mild-mannered nose with hints of lemon balm and lychee, nicely defined, and perhaps it would benefit by dialing up the Assyrtiko DNA. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly oily texture. With satsuma and apricot touches, quite weighty on the finish, this decent Greek white will give four or five years of drinking pleasure.

I brought the First Growth as it is a special occasion. The **2004 Château Margaux** is a vintage that I tasted earlier this year at the château, although here it is a rare chance to savor the wine from neck to punt. What a joy. It is certainly open for business on the nose, leaning towards red rather than black fruit, violet and peony, cedar and light just a touch of tobacco. The palate is initially fleshy and caressing, a sensual Margaux. Yet after 30 minutes, it begins to firm up and reveal more backbone and tannic structure. It has unerring purity with a divine, poised satin-textured finish. This surely stands as one of the wines of the vintage.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729261949624-chateau+margaux+bottle+%281%29.jpg)

Cornus has hit the ground running. It was a pleasure to see familiar faces, including co-owner David O’Connor. It is a place for a special meal, though, at the time of writing, a three-course lunch for £55 per person means Cornus does not price itself out of many people’s pockets. The standard of cooking is amongst the best I have encountered this year. The wine list is enticing. Service is impeccable. The staff makes the whole dining experience pleasurable, serious in their work but not taking themselves seriously. My only quibble is acoustic. The music at the beginning of our dinner featured Michael Bolton, though thankfully, his warbling was turned down once the restaurant filled up.

Anything to do directly or indirectly with Nigel Platts-Martin has one thing in common… You hanker to go back. That is not the case even with the finest restaurants that are mentally ticked off the to-do list, sated with a single visit. But I’m already teeing up a pre-Xmas return.

You know the first sentence I wrote in this review? Replace the question mark with an exclamation mark.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK

Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK (Oct 2024)

### [Bar Le Côte](https://www.barlecote.com/)

2375 Alamo Pintado Ave

Los Olivos, CA 93441

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 11, 2024

### The Food:

Oysters; Pacific Golds, Mere Point Petites

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin

Savory Basque Cheesecake; BLC Royal Caviar, Goat Cheese, Shallot Crème Fraîche

Yellowtail Crudo; Sauce Maritimo, Avocado Purée, Pickled Turnip, Ilene’s Olive Oil, Cilantro Flower

Day Boar Scallop Crudo; Pickled Might Cap Mushrooms, Crème Fraîche, Dill Pollen

B-L-Caesar; Dressed Finley Little Gems, Aged Manchego, Breadcrumbs

Santa Ynez Corn Porridge; Figueroa Mountain Corn, Wild Shrimp, Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Finley Basil

Yellowtail Collar; Lemon Caper Crème Fraîche

Crispy Skin Branzino; Dry Aged Finley Farm Roasted Sweet Onion, Romesco, Manzanilla Olive

Littleneck Clams; Saffron Crème, Finley Fennel, Lemon

BLC Fries

Olive Oil Cake; Finely Strawberries, Basil Crème Batida, Cookie Crumble

Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème, Whipped Milk Chocolate, Spiced Chocolate Soil

**The Wines:**

| 2021 Raventós i Blanc Brut Conca del Riu Anoia | 89 |
| 2021 Tyler Chardonnay Blanc de BLC | 89 |
| 2023 Storm Wines Sauvignon Blanc Cocktail | 90 |

The food scene in Los Olivos has improved dramatically in recent years. I sensed a palpable increase in the quality of local restaurants on my most recent visit this past July. Perhaps the long-awaited re-opening of Mattei’s Tavern was a catalyst. I can’t say for sure. What does seem evident is that visitors today have unparalleled options when it comes to exploring the local dining scene. Bar Le Côte is one of the crown jewels in Santa Barbara wine country.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681098162-VTOct112024_Oysters+and+sea+urchin.jpg)

_Oysters; Pacific Golds, Mere Point Petites and Santa Barbara Sea Urchin_

Bar Le Côte is in the heart of Los Olivos, a short walk from the two main hotels in town and a bevy of tasting rooms, making it a great choice for dinner after a day of tastings or for a simpler lunch. My only caveat is that things close early. Los Olivos is most definitely not the place for a late dinner.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681115646-VTOct112024_Cheesecake.jpg)

_Savory Basque Cheesecake; BLC Royal Caviar, Goat Cheese, Shallot Crème Fraîche_

Executive Chef and Co-Owner Brad Matthews serves up an enticing menu that emphasizes the bounty of local fish and seafood, presented with strong Spanish influences. We tried to order the entire menu on two recent dinners but fell a bit short. No matter, that’s a good reason to go back.

Oysters and the Santa Barbara Sea Urchin are a must to start, preferably paired with something crisp. I could have had seconds. My only quibble here is that the sea urchin might be better served on a cracker or rice. The Basque Cheesecake topped with caviar melds together gorgeous flavors and textures. I also love the Yellowtail Crudo, especially in the way the brightness of the condiments plays off the richness of the meat. The Scallop Crudo is a bit darker, as the mushrooms add an unusual earthy layer of flavor that works quite well. The B-L-Caesar is perhaps not the most exciting dish on the menu, but greens are always good, and it’s a delicious salad.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681180079-VTOct112024_Hamachi.jpg)

_Yellowtail Crudo; Sauce Maritimo, Avocado Purée, Pickled Turnip, Ilene’s Olive Oil, Cilantro Flower_

Corn Porridge with shrimp and sea urchin is suitably rich, with the corn absorbing all of the saline intensity of the seafood. The Yellowtail Collar is spectacular. Each fish only provides two servings, so Matthews freezes the collars over time and then puts this on the menu. Every bite is a delicious mix of fatty meat and strong condiments. Divine. The Branzino is delicious. It's maybe not quite as adventurous as some of the other dishes on the menu, but it is impeccably done. I always prefer fish served with the head, but I also realize that is not everyone’s cup of tea. Littleneck Clams are another signature dish. This rendition, served with saffron crème, fennel and lemon, is tasty. The BLC Fries are a must.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681155330-VTOct112024_Collar.jpg)

_Yellowtail Collar; Lemon Caper Crème Fraîche_

I really have only one criticism of Bar Le Côte, and that is that the wine program could benefit from more options. Guests can choose from 15 or so whites and reds, plus a few sparkling wines and other beverages. Pricing is very fair, which is great to see. The focus is on wines from small, artisan producers and Spain clearly chosen to complement the cuisine. That would be fine for a modest establishment, but Bar Le Côte is far more than that. The energy in the dining room was especially palpable on the second night we visited. Alice Waters, one of the most influential chef/restaurateurs in California and a pioneer in the farm-to-table movement, was enjoying dinner. Bar Le Côte is that kind of place. This is one of the problems, for lack of a better word, created by Matthews’s brilliant cuisine. In short, this food really deserves a broader selection of wines. I can appreciate if budgets or physical space don’t allow for an extensive cellar, but some improvement must surely be possible.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681226815-VTOct112024_Clams.jpg)

_Littleneck Clams; Saffron Crème, Finley Fennel, Lemon_

The 2021 **Brut Conca del Riu Anoia** from **Raventós i Blanc** is a fine, tasty sparkling wine to kick off dinner. Brisk and vibrant, it whets the palate nicely. **Justin Willett’s 2021 Chardonnay Blanc de BLC** , blended for Bar Le Côte, is piercingly bright in its first impression, but it, too, works so well with the cuisine. I would not drink this alone. At the table, it is a delight. **Ernst Storm’s Sauvignon 2023 Blanc Cocktail** is essentially a blend of his Santa Ynez Sauvignon Blanc with some juice from the Presqu'ile bottling. It’s a combination that works quite well.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728681198963-VTOct112024_Olive+oil+cake.jpg)

_Olive Oil Cake; Finely Strawberries, Basil Crème Batida, Cookie Crumble_

Both desserts are terrific. The Olive Oil Cake, topped with a strawberry compote, is wonderfully refreshing, while the Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème will thrill the most discerning of chocolate lovers.

Bar Le Côte is a must for readers visiting Santa Barbara wine country. Reservations are essential, as the small dining room fills up quickly, The bar is a great option for guests who want to watch the action in the open kitchen from row seats.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Santa Barbara: California’s Undiscovered Jewel](https://vinous.com/articles/santa-barbara-california-s-undiscovered-jewel-aug-2024), Antonio Galloni, August 2024



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