<a target="_blank" href="http://www.laciaudeltornavento.it/ita">La
Ciau del Tornavento</a>

Piazza Baracco 7

12050 Treiso, Italy

Tel. +39 0173 638333

Food:

Poached Egg with White
Truffle28 Egg Yolk Tagliolini with
White TrufflesRoasted capretto (kid)
























Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e
Peperoncino

Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=2002+Bollinger+Vieilles+Vignes+Fran%C3%A7aises">2002 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=NV+Jacques+Selosse+A%C3%BF+La+C%C3%B4te+Faron">NV Jacques Selosse Aÿ La Côte Faron</a> (dis. 04/14)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1975+Bruno+Giacosa+Barolo+Bussia+">1975 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Bussia di Monforte</a> &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1967+Bruno+Giacosa+Barolo+Collina+Rionda">1967 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1970+Giacomo+Conterno+Barolo">1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1993+Giacomo+Conterno+Barolo+Riserva+Monfortino">1993 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino</a> 
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1988+Krug+vintage">1988 Krug Vintage</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>


















Fall is a magical time at
La Ciau del Tornavento. White truffles abound, the wine is plentiful and the room
buzzes with energy. Proprietors Maurilio Garola and Nadia Benech and their team
were at the top of their game both times I visited La Ciau recently.

I can’t think of too many
better ways to start dinner than with a glass or two of Bollinger’s 2002 Vieilles Vignes Françaises. The
2002 has lost just a touch of the youthful exuberance it exhibited a year or
two ago, but it is still compelling for its superb textural balance and overall
sense of resonance. Anselme Selosse’s NV
Aÿ La Côte Faron is super-refined, floral and lifted, with striking purity
of fruit and terrific harmony. Two totally unique Champagnes side by side. What
a great way to start dinner.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1416013117898-Egg.jpg">Poached Egg with White TruffleBruno Giacosa’s 1975 Barolo Riserva Speciale Bussia di
Monforte is a revelation. I have never had good luck with this bottling in
the past. Maybe it was just a matter of time. Although fully mature and perhaps
on the back end of maturity, the 1975 is hauntingly beautiful. The fruit is
sweet, candied and perfumed in a mid-weight, totally gracious Barolo. From what
I have been able to piece together, the 1975 Bussia di Monforte was made from
Pianpolvere Soprana, a vineyard Giacosa regards as the single best site in
Barolo. The 1967 Barolo Riserva Speciale
Collina Rionda is even better. Wonderfully pliant and resonant for a wine
of its age, the 1967 is a real head-turner. Here, too, the fruit is almost
impossibly sweet, but there is more depth and nuance to the flavors. What a
treat it is to drink the 1967 Rionda on this night.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1416013162960-aWine.JPG">Three epic Barolos

Giacomo Conterno’s 1970 Barolo takes things into the
stratosphere. Savory herbs, ferrous notes and sinewy tannins are the
signatures. A powerful, tannic wine, the 1970 is simply magnificent. A few
months ago, I tasted the 1970 Monfortino and was similarly impressed. But the
1970 Barolo needs no comparison. It is stunning on its own. The 1993 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is an
unexpected addition to our lineup.
Exotic and perfumed, the 1993 possesses marvelous depth and personality. This
may very well be the best bottle of the 1993 I have ever had. The flavors are
just popping. I am indebted to two Vinous readers sitting next us for sharing
such a special bottle of wine with us, but then again, the world’s best wines
have a way on inspiring generosity.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1416013143860-Truffles.jpg">28 Egg Yolk Tagliolini with White TrufflesTruffles are plentiful on
this night. The Poached Egg with White Truffle is fabulous. How could it not
be? La Ciau’s 28 Egg Yolk Tagliolini with White Truffles, a signature dish, is
absolutely decadent. When it comes to white truffles in Piedmont, there is no
such thing as too much. The roasted capretto (kid) is tender and moist, yet
also full of flavor.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1416013133828-Pasta.jpg">Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

Dinner ends in the
kitchen, where the staff serves up a fabulous plate of Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e
Peperoncino, an Italian late night classic. The spiciness of the pepper and
garlic makes for a fabulous contrast with the 1988 Krug Vintage. Still tense and crystalline, the 1988 remains a
youthful Krug Champagne capable of drinking well for another 20+ years. This is
one of the very best bottles of the 1988&nbsp; I have ever had. As good as the 1988 is, it can’t
match the sheer joy of sharing so many special wines with a small group of
close friends.

-- Antonio Galloni

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