Café Boulud is Daniel Boulud’s version of a neighborhood restaurant, although the New York incarnation reflects its surroundings in the fashionable Upper East Side. The ambience and service are slightly less formal than at the flagship Daniel but the food and wine are equally brilliant. This early summer dinner was fantastic. With the exception of an overcooked risotto, all of the dishes were flawless. The two tartares were not only delicious and vibrant, but also very attractively presented.