<a target="_blank" href="https://www.maisonfrancois.london/">Maison François</a>

34 Duke
Street

St James's

London, UK SW1Y 6DF

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 3, 2025&nbsp;

The Food:Maison Terrine and GougèresPoulet Rôti Entier with Salad Leaves and Pommes FrîtesTarte au CitronThe Wine:2016 Rauzan-Ségla Ségla&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;91Punishment
of some kind is deserved because I failed to write about Maison François until
now.Why? 



















Well,
it belongs to a cadre of London restaurants that treats wine lovers with
respect, and naturally, those should be prioritized in this parish. Instead of willing
cash-cows herded in to suffer egregious mark-ups of whatever vino was being
discounted at the cash and carry, this is a place that wants you to enjoy
decent wine at a decent price with very decent food. Opened in September 2021
and located just a five-minute walk from Piccadilly and St. James Street,
Maison François is a cavernous two-floor all-day brasserie. And it really is
“all day.” You can pop in at breakfast for a glass of champagne, or between 2pm
and 5:30pm to take advantage of a £15 steak frîtes, or for a slap-up dinner in
the evening, or a cheeky late-night nightcap before catching the last tube
home.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735902962710-maison+francois+interior_copy.JPG">The large yet cozy dining room at Maison François On a
Wednesday lunchtime, I found the restaurant filled to the rafters with a
mixture of office workers, families with kids (and a dog catered for with its own
bowl of water) and those wanting classy dining without the froufrou. It is
noisy and bustling. Though not excessively loud, Maison François is not a place
for a romantic dinner where you want to whisper sweet nothings. The décor has a
tasteful Art Deco theme, high ceilings, walls bathed in a warm orangey glow and
a clock stolen from an early-fifties Hitchcock movie. The room is cleverly
divided into sections, which enhances the intimacy, lest it might feel too much
like a large cafeteria. You can easily see why Maison François is a popular
venue for merchants to host tastings and even take over the entire premises for
a La Paulée. The basement, Frank’s, accommodates a more casual
pescatarian deli counter that turns into a wine bar at night.

The
menu comprises classic French bistro dishes: maison terrine, onion soup,
scallops, côte de boeuf, pistachio madeleines, beurre blanc, tarte citron, Paris-Brest
and so forth. Nothing here is going to challenge the culinary horizons of those
au fait with Gallic cuisine. You are on safe ground, which is why I took
my mother here, as she has dietary restrictions. It is not quite Michelin
standard because there is not the finesse or artistry to <a target="_blank">warrant</a>
a star. However, dishes feel authentic, and there is clearly quality control
for everything coming out of the open kitchen at the rear—some achievement
given the number of covers. Service, courtesy of a fleet of smartly attired
waiters, is absolutely top-notch including the sommelier, our chap having
previously worked at <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-la-trompette-london-uk-aug-2018">La
Trompette</a>.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903018169-terrine_copy.JPG">Maison pâté en croute<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903050252-gougeres_copy.JPG">Gougères I start with a pâté en croute. The meat
is fresh with just the right amount of jelly underneath a perfectly flaky
pastry (I forego the cornichons—I just do not get them, and they taste horrible).
Also, a small plate of fluffy gougères, delicious even if it is a
challenge stopping the rich and warm Comté dribbling down your chin.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903112817-poulet+entier_copy.JPG">Poulet rôti entier For
mains, I share poulet rôti entier, accompanied by salad and fries. This
is actually poulet noir, my favorite, the meat a little darker and
gamier than regular chicken. It comes with perfectly crisp skin and plenty of jus
to moisten it. This is the nearest I can get to the famous poulet de bresse
in Beaune without using a passport. I should also add that the chips <a target="_blank">are cooked</a> and seasoned to absolute perfection. Mum’s
fresh halibut comes with a beurre rouge and winter leaves, the poisson
fresh and flaky, cooked à point. 

The
wine list arrives in a small, soft leather book. It is not an enormous range, but
there are plenty of vinous avenues to explore. Obviously, there is a Gallic
leaning, however the curious oenophile will find plenty of grower champagne, a
decent Spanish and South African selection, and a smattering from around the
New World. Wines are thoughtfully chosen. If you want to splash out, then you
can. Otherwise, there are plenty of very decent bottles at reasonable prices
with a little age, for example, a 2012 Cantemerle or 2014 Tronquoy Lalande. There
are also a number of tempting whites and reds by the glass. Furthermore, as
this is a wine-friendly establishment, they are very accommodating for those
wishing to bring their own and pay corkage, as the table next to mine had done.
As always, telephone in advance and speak to the team.<blockquote></blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote>I was taking it easy on libations, so I order a glass of 2016 Ségla. What I did not expect was our sommelier to stagger toward our table with a magnificent imperial, another bit of theatre. This bottle came directly from the château via a UK merchant, and it is drinking beautifully. Black cherries, cassis and violets on the nose immediately nail this as a Margaux, quite plush and seductive. The palate has wonderful balance and saturated tannins. It’s silky smooth with a sweet but poised finish that slips down the throat with ease. This is exactly what second labels should be for.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1735903156368-tarte+citron_copy.JPG">Tarte au citron A
dessert trolly is wheeled out for us to browse everything in the flesh. This is
a lovely touch of retro theatre, which is what you deserve when paying a bit
more. My tarte au citron is light and tangy, with just the right amount of
sweetness. The accompanying ice cream is fabulous, with actual specks of
vanilla. Proper ice cream.

Maison
François comes highly recommended, especially for larger groups looking for a
livelier lunch or dinner with quality French cooking accompanied by decent
wines. My mum liked it because it makes you feel like you're eating somewhere
special but without fuss or pretension. There is a relaxed vibe, and though I
would not exactly describe it as cheap—this is St. James’s after all—the
standard is a cut above the rest. It nods to the past, and yet it feels
contemporary, with plenty of Gallic style. 

Forgive
me for not writing about Maison François earlier. I trust that I am now spared whatever
punishment is deserved for my oversight.&nbsp;© 2025 Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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