68 Royal Hospital Rd
London SW3 4HP
Nearest tube: Sloan Square (20 minute walk)
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The Food:
Gougères, pastrami beef tartare, whipped lardo with black garlic and bee pollen
Spiced duck tea infused with orange and Madeira
Isle of Skye scallops with maitake, pickled walnut and jus gras
Lobster, langoustine, salmon ravioli with lemon and sauce Americaine
Chestnut linguine with aged parmesan and white truffles
100-day aged Cumbrian Brue Grey beef, Tokyo turnips, black garlic and smoked bone marrow
Frangola, Moscato d’Asti and violet sorbet
It was time to return home after a splendid meal and an overdue catch-up with my host. In retrospect, maybe Hospital Road was more low-key than expected. Maybe misled by its namesake’s showmanship, I had anticipated more razzle-dazzle, but that would be totally surplus to requirements. Is it expensive? For sure, but restaurants at this level are everywhere nowadays, and it’s easy to list pricier places elsewhere in London.
