Fax +39 0481 623 88
Cormons, Localita Monte
22 Tel +39 0481 605 31
April 2008
I can’t imagine visiting Friuli and not having a meal at Al Cacciatore, known by everyone simply as La Subida. This comfortable, rustic restaurant is perched atop the picturesque, undulating hills of Cormons, in the prestigious Collio. The cuisine reflects an elegant interpretation of classic dishes with an added flair that pays homage to the influences of Eastern Europe that make Friuli such a fascinating region. Proprietors Joško and Loredana Sirk are fanatical about seeking out the best ingredients, whether they are locally-farmed organic vegetables, small-production artisan cheeses or the wines of their friends that adorn the very comprehensive wine list.
Springtime is of course the season for asparagus throughout many parts of northern Italy. The local white asparagus are pretty hard to beat when they are in season, but the local wild (green) asparagus were unlike anything I have ever tasted. These small, slender spears were about the size of haricots verts and were literally bursting with an intensity of flavor I had never encountered. They were sublime. The homemade tortelli with spring vegetables and fresh tomatoes were also phenomenal. We caught Gravner’s 2003 Ribolla at an adolescent stage. Gravner believes hot, dry conditions (such as those of 2003) are ideal for his wines, yet on this day the Ribolla offered just a glimpse of its potential. It was a big, racy Ribolla packed with fruit, but also deftly balanced and incredibly harmonious. Subsequent tastings have revealed a wine of compelling beauty.
