<a target="_blank" href="http://viafornopizza.com/">Via Forno</a>

2 Garth Road

Scarsdale, NY 10583

Tel. + 1 (914)
556-6464

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 20, 2020The Food:

Via Via Pressed Panino; Prosciutto San Daniele, Fresh Mozzarella,
Arugula, Tomato

Insalata Tricolore: Endive, Radicchio, Arugula, Olives,
Pamigiano, Sea Salt, Lemon Vinaigrette

Pizza Margherita

Eggplant Parm; Thin Sliced, Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella,
Ricotta, Parmigiano, Basil

The Wine:

2017 Domaine du Pélican
Arbois&nbsp;Trois Cépages&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;90

No industry has been hit harder during the COVID-19 outbreak
than the hospitality industry. In last week’s <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-nomad-new-york-city-mar-2020">Vinous
Table</a>, I wrote “Having worked for a number of years in restaurants, I am
keenly aware of these two simple truths…: 1) margins are very tight and 2) no
restaurant, no matter how successful, is ever more than a few bad weeks away
from layoffs, or even closing.” That has, unfortunately proven to be true as
Covid-19 continues to spread. Restaurants, even the biggest groups, are
essentially cash businesses. With no revenues, there is no money to pay
employees.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1584729146469-IMG_7991_copy.jpg"> 

Tables are grouped together and chairs are stacked,
pretty much the same thing you will see in any restaurant in New York right
now.

Danny Meyer announced a few days ago that he had no choice
but to lay off 2,000 people, or about 80% of his staff, while Tom Colicchio
laid off 300. Colicchio painted a grim outlook for the hospitality industry in
an interview on CNN, and stated that he would be surprised if 70% of
restaurants re-opened. Naturally, the impact on the people who work in
restaurants and hotels is dramatic. But that is just the beginning, because a
lack of activity in hospitality has so many trickle-down effects and threatens
the long-term viability of many industries, from the purveyors of food products
and wine, to companies that clean linens to commercial real estate owners.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1584729156481-IMG_8008_copy.jpg"> 

Via Via Pressed Panino; Prosciutto San Daniele, Fresh
Mozzarella, Arugula, Tomato.

The situation has been very fluid, changing every few days.
Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud were among the chefs that announced temporary
closures ahead of a mandated drop in capacity to 50%. That was followed by a
total ban, with the exception of take out and delivery. Restaurateurs responded
in various ways. As mentioned above, some completely suspended operations,
while others have tried to adapt as much as possible. Some cuisines lend
themselves to take-out/delivery, while others do not. Restaurants have been
selling everything they can, from produce to alcohol, which quite remarkably,
government authorities are allowing during this unprecedented time. Who knows
even how long this will last, given that the State of California and the City
of New York are now requiring all non-essential employees to stay home. So, for
now, we can’t dine out, but take-out is available, at least for a few days.

Via Forno is one of my local pizza joints. The menu is what
you would expect – mostly paninis, pizzas, salads and pastas.&nbsp;The Via Via Pressed Panino is stuffed with
San Daniele prosciutto, mozzarella, arugula and tomato. It is rich and
delicious on a cold spring night. Via Forno’s Eggplant Parm, billed as an
appetizer, is enough to satisfy 2-3 people, especially if shared. Terrific. The
Margherita pizza is a classic, with a crust that is neither too crisp nor too
heavy, but just right. For some greens with a little interest, the Insalata
Tricolore is an excellent choice. Despite the somber outlook, the staff at Via
Forno has been upbeat on the few times I have been there recently. I am looking
forward to going back when things eventually come back to something resembling
normalcy.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1584729218983-IMG_8001_copy.jpg"> 

Pizza Margherita.

A few years ago Guillaume d’Angerville began expanding from
Volnay with the acquisition of vineyards in Jura. Since then, he has added to
his holdings. The 2017 Arbois&nbsp;Trois Cépages is a pretty blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and
Poulsard. Bright floral notes and red berry fruit are nicely lifted in an
attractive, gracious light-bodied wine that is easy to drink now. I suppose a
juicier red like a Dolcetto, Barbera, Aglianico or even Chianti Classico would
have technically been a better match for this food, but the wine was delicious
just the same.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1584729211356-IMG_8002-copy.jpg"> 

Eggplant Parm; Thin Sliced, Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella,
Ricotta, Parmigiano, Basil.

Needless to say, it will be interesting to see how things
play out over the next few weeks and months. I think it is pretty clear the
entire world will be different and that many industries will be re-shaped. If
you can, do something for those less fortunate. Plenty of people need our help.Resources to help the hospitality industry can be found on the Restaurant Workers' Community Foundation <a target="_blank" href="https://www.restaurantworkerscf.org/">website</a>.

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