<a target="_blank">Glen Ellen Star</a>

13648 Arnold Drive

Glen Ellen, CA 95442

(707) 343-1384

Food:

Brussels sprouts; brown
sugar bacon marmalade

Cauliflower; tahini, sumac,
roasted almonds

Musquee de Provence pumpkin;
pomegranate molasses, petias

Margherita pizza; basil,
tomato, mozzarella&nbsp; 

White pizza; guanciale,
arugula 

Lamb and pole bean
cassoulet; roasted garlic, persillade

Vanilla maple bourbon ice cream

Wine:

1982 Joseph Swan Zinfandel&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 91

1994 Philip Togni Cabernet
Sauvignon&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 97

When I asked a good friend
and local resident for her top dining recommendation in the area, the answer
was swift: Glen Ellen Star.

Located in the middle of
wine country, halfway between Kenwood and Sonoma, Glen Ellen Star is a cross
of the best pizza joint you have ever been to and a classic French bistro,
with a good dose of rural Americana thrown into the mix. Bar seats in front of the wood oven and a&nbsp;handful of
small tables give the dining room its warm, cosy feel.&nbsp;Additional seating is available on the spacious outdoor patio, where heaters make it possible to enjoy the last leisurely days of California's Indian summer.&nbsp;

Chef Ari Weiswasser’s
cuisine is comfort food at its very&nbsp;best. The assorted vegetable starters are cooked
in the wood oven and served family-style in screaming hot cast iron pans. Brussels sprouts have never been this good, but the brown sugar
bacon marmalade has a lot to do with that. The Musquee de Provence pumpkin with
pomegranate molasses and petias is a perfect dish for an early fall evening.
The white pizza with guanciale and arugula is fabulous. It is a must. Although
a bit heavy on the sauce, the Margherita pizza is also tasty.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1414232421123-glen+ellen+WhitePizza_vinous.jpg"> White pizza; guanciale, arugula 

The lamb and pole bean
cassoulet with roasted garlic is the highlight of our dinner. Chef Weiswasser’s resume boasts stints at the French Laundry and a
number of New York City’s top spots, including Daniel, Picholine and Corton.
That pedigree shows in the cassoulet, a dish that could easily be served in any
dining room in America. Bright flavors and textures contrast the richness of
the lamb in a stunning rendition of a French classic. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1414232389081-Lamb+-+Glen+ellen+vinous.jpg"> Lamb and pole bean cassoulet; roasted garlic, persillade

The wine list is small but
carefully chosen. These two wines, though, are from our cellars. Joseph Swan’s 1982 Zinfandel is a real beauty. Sweet
tobacco, crushed flowers and dried red cherries abound in a silky, gorgeous
Zinfandel that hits all the right spots. Timeless and elegant, the 1982 shows
just how much pure pleasure mature Zinfandel can deliver. What a beautiful wine
this is. The only problem with Philip Togni’s 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon is the stark realization that twenty years
have passed since it was made! Time waits for no one. I have long adored
Togni’s 1994. This bottle is utterly fabulous from the very first taste.
Graphite smoke, grilled herbs and sage meld into a core of vibrant fruit in a
powerful, savory wine loaded with personality and class. Although not likely to improve much from here, the&nbsp;1994 has enough density to drink
well for at least another decade. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1414232372774-Glen+ellen+Wines+-+vinous.jpg"> 

I don’t have a huge sweet
tooth, but I can’t resist the homemade vanilla maple bourbon ice cream, which
is served in a half-pint container that I shared, but only grudgingly.

Readers looking for
something new in Sonoma will not want to miss Glen Ellen Star. This was one of
the very best meals I have had so far in 2014. I can’t wait to go back.

-- Antonio Galloni

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social