SO|LA – Soho

64 Dean Street, London

W1D 4QQ

(Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road)

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Parmesan gougères with Parmesan straws

Spanish bluefin tuna with foie gras, black truffle and tomato gastrique

Mackerel and Roscoff onion tartlet with anchovy butter

Cured kingfish with a pistachio crust and Oscietra caviar

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Given that restaurants have only just reopened, it is unsurprising for me to pronounce this the best meal I have eaten so far in 2021. Whether any restaurant will be able to match it is another question. The bar has been set extremely high.