<a target="_blank" href="http://www.laciccia.com/">La Ciccia</a>

291
30th Street

San
Francisco, CA 94131

(415)
550 - 8114&nbsp;

Food:

Baby octopus stew in a spicy tomato
sauce (Prupisceddu in Umida cun Tomatiga)

Roasted Monterey calamari, basil
oil (Calamareddusu Arrustiusu)

Fresh spaghetti, spicy garlic oil,
salt-cured fish roe (Spaghittusu cun Allu
Ollu e Bottariga)

Seared sea bass with kale and
tapenade (Pisci de Mari Arrustiu)

Oven-roasted wild prawns san
marzano tomato battuto (Camberonisi
Arrustiusu cun Tomatiga)

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
2011 Capichera Vermentino
 Classico
 </td>
 <td>
 &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2013 Gabbas Lillové
 Cannonau di Sardegna
 </td>
 <td>
 &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 90</td></tr></tbody></table>

Tucked away inside of Noe Valley,
one of San Francisco’s more residential neighborhoods, La Ciccia is a small,
unassuming spot dedicated to the food and wines of Sardinia. Now open for more
than a decade, La Ciccia may be long past any sort of buzz, but its consistent
excellence and authentic, regional identity has inspired fierce loyalty among
regulars. On my recent visit, more Italian than English was being spoken among
the patrons—always a good sign—and the man at the table next to me was explaining
the menu to his American date with something approaching tears in his eyes.
Being from the island of Sardinia, he used the procession of the courses to walk
his companion through his childhood; his father at the docks, his mother in the
kitchen. I studied the wine list to mask my eavesdropping, but couldn’t help
feeling transported by his colorful recollections.

The space itself is simple, with
little in the way of decoration and only a dozen or so tables that are spaced
incredibly close together. The bread basked was uninspiring and reminiscent of
something served in a hotel banquet hall, but the room filled up fast and the
bustle and energy of the guests and the enticing smells from the kitchen quickly
infused the atmosphere with a tremendous, welcoming warmth.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1441284130067-babyoctopus.jpg">Baby octopus stew in a spicy tomato sauceLa Ciccia is owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Massimiliano Conti and
Lorella Degan, with Conti in the kitchen and Degan running the front of the
house. The single-page wine list is all Italian, a quarter Sardinian, and
loaded with gems. My eye lingered over selections from Emidio Pepe, Gravner,
Simčic,
Lis Neris, Bea, AR.PE.PE., Giacosa, Cordero di Montezemolo, and Grosjean, but I
had come to drink Sardinian wine and wanted to try something new. Our waiter,
who grew up down the street from the winery, recommended Capichera’s Vermentino
Classico. This wine, produced in a somewhat riper and more flashy style than I am
used to, was delicious. Though its salt-water wisps and oyster shell mineral
tone marked it as decidedly “of the sea”, it also boasted some warm citrus,
oak, and vanilla aromas. The palate was impressively dense and lightly viscous,
although there was enough crisp acidity to balance out the ample flesh.The first course we enjoyed was a
La Ciccia staple, the baby octopus stew in a spicy tomato sauce. Rustic,
powerful, and loaded with flavor, this dish really popped. The octopus was
perfectly tender, and the stew offered a nice kick of spice that was built
nicely. I didn’t ask, but it seemed as though the octopus was cooked with some
sort of shellfish stock, as a tangy iodine tone complemented the sweetness of
the tomatoes. Unfortunately, this dish wasn’t especially flattering to the
wine, which was made to seem broad, sharp, and a bit metallic by the pairing.&nbsp;The next dish was sensational, and
was utter perfection with the wine. A row of plump and fork-tender Monterey Bay
squid lined the plate, dripping with basil oil and freshly chopped herbs.
Though both the dish and the wine were relatively straightforward, the pairing
was so spot-on that both were elevated to a whole that was far greater than the
sum of its parts.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1441284147745-Pasta.jpg">Fresh spaghetti, spicy garlic oil, salt-cured fish roeThe fresh spaghetti was also
incredible, featuring perfectly cooked noodles under a mound of salty, shaved
bottarga. The sauce was pungent and more than a little spicy, with the perfect
amount of garlic to round out the flavors. An exceptionally rich dish that was lovely
to share, the spaghetti might be a bit overwhelming for one person.Having come from Napa where it was
95 degrees to San Francisco where it was an overcast 64 degrees, we were
craving a red wine but had ordered mostly white wine-friendly dishes. Our
helpful server jumped in once again, steering us towards the lighter, more
elegant side of Cannonau with the 2013 Gabbas Lillové. This fun and charming wine was bright
ruby in hue, with a lightly smoky nose of wild strawberries, garden soil,
cracked pepper and a touch of bubblegum. The palate was indeed light and
bright, with a refreshing, juicy quality to the fruit and a high, guiding
acidity. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1441284172047-Cannonau.jpg">2013 Gabbas Lillové Cannonau di Sardegna

It worked only moderately well with the
sea bass – Ciccia’s fish of the day, a dish that looked simple but was almost
heart-breaking in its perfection. Rarely have I had such impeccably cooked and
seasoned fish – it seemed almost disproportionately flavorful given its light
and airy texture. The sautéed kale and mound of tapenade first appeared to be
afterthoughts, but were in fact quite complementary. Thankfully, we still had a
little white wine left in our glasses.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1441284159863-Fish.jpg">Seared sea bass with kale and tapenadeThe Cannonau, which we enjoyed very
much, came in quite handy with the final course of roasted prawns. This dish
boasted a similar tomato sauce as the octopus stew, though without its complicating
spice and invigorating iodine tone. This version was thick, almost sweet, but
was saved from feeling clumsy by the brightness and clarity of the Gabbas. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1441284117244-shrimCOVER.jpg">Oven-roasted wild prawns san marzano tomato battutoAlthough not the most beautiful
restaurant, nor the most cutting-edge or trendy, La Ciccia delivers an
immensely satisfying dining experience. It is also a bargain compared to other
establishments of its caliber.&nbsp;In
a city known for fine dining, La Ciccia stands out from the crowd, not only for
its unique, compelling food, but also its extraordinary wine list. I'm already
looking forward to my next visit.

--Kelli White

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social