<a target="_blank" href="http://www.restaurant-chablis.fr/">Au Fil du Zinc</a>

18 Rue des Moulins

89800 Chablis, FranceTel.&nbsp;<a target="_blank">+33 3 86 33
96 39</a>&nbsp;IAN D’AGATA I MAY 26, 2017The FoodAmuseboucheAsparagus, Vin Jaune sauce, country
ham, egg parfait (Asperge verte, sauce
Vin Jaune, jambon maison, oeuf parfait)Skate wing, small peas, dried mullet
roe (Aile de raie, petit pois, boutargue)Clavisy lamb, tortilla, spring salad (Agneau de Clavisy, tortilla, salade
printemps)Apple tart, maple ice cream, Tonka
bean (Tarte tatin, glace sirop d’erable,
fève Tonka)The Wines

















<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2014 Billaud-Simon Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er
 Cru
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2014 Jean Collet Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
 </td>
 <td>
 92+
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2014 Louis Michel Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2014 Charlène et Laurent Pinson Chablis Montée de
 Tonnerre 1er Cru &nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 89+
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>It’s not often that you stumble upon a truly great
bistro where there’s someone with real talent behind the stoves. But so it is
with Au Fil du Zinc in Chablis. A pretty interior, lovely views, precisely
cooked flavorful foods and a great wine list make this place an absolute
winner.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745222047-1-Au+Fil+du+Zinc%27s+pleasant%2C+rustic+nside+decor+copy.JPG"> Au Fil du Zinc's pleasant, rustic inside decor Au Fil du Zinc is an explosion of
talent, good taste and great wines, and also one of the early candidates to
make my Top Five New Restaurant Discoveries of the Year. The bistro boasts a
smart, sleek interior decor with rustic country touches, a lovely view of the
Serein river, a rather small menu where just about every dish is very precisely
cooked and as good as it could possibly get, and a great wine list teeming with
many great Chablis wines plus a reserve list of truly knockout very fairly
priced bottles from all over the world and different vintages. Read’em and
weep: Roagna, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Coche-Dury, Comte Lafon and many
more await (in an effort to have these great bottles enjoyed by as many people
as possible, the restaurant places a limit of one such bottle per table per
sitting). Essentially, I walked out of Au Fil du Zinc convinced I had had a
memorable lunch and was happy in the knowledge of a really noteworthy dining
establishment to go to regularly.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745290550-2-asperge+vert+sauce+vin+jaune+jambon+maison+oeuf+parfait+copy.JPG"> 













Asparagus, Vin Jaune sauce, country ham, egg parfait&nbsp; 

Au Fil du Zinc was previously known as the Laroche
Wine Bar, but was renamed when Fabien Espana took over. Espana, previously at
Le Soufflot in Irancy (his native town) now prowls the dining room at Au Fil du
Zinc. His chef, Ryo Nagahama, trained at l'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and at Yannick
Alleno’s restaurant Le Meurice, and was sous-chef at Joël Robuchon in Tapeï. He
was most recently at Aux Bons Enfants at Saint-Julien-de-Sault. Nagahama’s
small menu changes regularly and quickly, and is loaded with local fresh
ingredients cooked in a fresh, crisp style.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745306413-3-aile+de+raie+petit+pois+boutargue+copy.JPG"> 













Skate wing, samll peas, dried mullet roe&nbsp;

On this day, everything I tried was
nothing short of spectacular. The asparagus, Vin Jaune sauce, country ham, egg
parfait was so good I could easily
have had another portion, although I can easily be accused of never having met
a skate wing I didn’t think was just swell, the fact is that the skate wing, small peas, dried mullet
roe dish at Au Fil du Znc was
exceptional - tasty, moist and precisely cooked. The Clavisy lamb, tortilla,
spring salad, and the apple tart served with maple ice cream, and Tonka bean were
likewise excellent. This was bistro food at its very best.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745339660-4-agneau+de+Clavisy+tortilla+salade+printemps+copy.JPG"> 













Clavisy lamb, tortilla, spring salad&nbsp; 

Great wines are everywhere to be had
at Au Fil du Zinc, especially if you like Chablis. I literally didn’t know
where to start. And while the DRC Echezeaux was offered at an especially tempting
price, I opted for one of my favorite lunch games: “Pick your favorite Chablis
Premier or Grand Cru wine of the day”. And so I chose four 2014 Chablis Premier
Crus all from the same vineyard and from reputable producers, and decided not
just which I liked best but also which paired best with the food I was having. I
chose to compare wines from the famed Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru, which has
always been my favorite Premir Cru of all (though in a sign of just how diverse
and complex Chablis wines can be, I love a good Fourchaume and Vaillons almost
as much, which is interesting, given that these crus give entirely different
wines from Montée de Tonnerre). A highly calcareous-marly site on the right
bank of the Serein river, Montée de Tonnerre has long been viewed as giving the
most complete Premier Cru wines that are practically (almost) of Grand Cru
caliber. The 2014 vintage in Chablis was cool, and the wines are particularly
mineral and food-friendly, if still extremely young, and so it was both fun and
very instructive to compare efforts from some great names in the area.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745370264-5-tATIN+GALCE+SIROP+D%27ERABLE+Fe%CC%80ve+de+Tonka+copy.JPG"> 













Apple tart, maple ice cream, Tonka bean&nbsp; The 2014
Billaud-Simon Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is a simply outstanding wine;
minerally pure, lemony and still very backwards. I kept going back to it time
and again. Just as good, if in a completely different way, was the 2014 Jean Collet Chablis Montée de Tonnerre,
which unlike the Billaud-Simon that sees no oak whatsoever, is aged in French
oak barriques (10% of which are new).
The wine is much rounder and mellower than the Montée de Tonnerre by
Billaud-Simon, and still needs to lose its youthful vanillin cloak. Still,
there’s plenty to like here, with lovely aromas and flavors of pure fruit,
orange oil, oyster shell and warm croissants that are laced throughout. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745408058-6-da+wines+copy.JPG"> Another stainless steel aged-only wine followed, the&nbsp;2014 Louis Michel Chablis Montée de Tonnerre. It was just as lemony but slightly softer than the Billaud-Simon, but with the same laser-like precision and length. Our last wine was the savory, forward&nbsp;2014 Charlène et Laurent Pinson Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, that had stronger herbal and musky underbrush notes than the other wines. The winner of the lunch was the Billaud-Simon, but the Collet matched better with some of the richer dishes tried. All in all, this was a great lunch spent in the company of great food, wines and friends.&nbsp; <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1495745429068-7-Pretty+Chablis+copy.JPG"> Pretty Chablis

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