Riverside Restaurant

at The Compleat Angler

Marlow Bridge Ln, Marlow

Buckinghamshire SL7 1RG,
United Kingdom

Phone:<a target="_blank">+44 344
879 9128</a>

&nbsp;

The food:

Pan-fried Scottish scallops,
smoked onion purée, compressed apple

Jerusalem artichoke arancini,
parmesan custard mustard frills

Filet of cod purée, parsley
“tartare”, batter scaps

Filet of beef, umami crunch,
creamed Dijon potatoes, caramel shallots

Classic lemon tart, stem
ginger, mascarpone sorbet

The wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 NV Moutard Champagne Grande Cuvée
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2104 Saint Clair Pinot Gris Rosé Marlborough
 </td>
 <td>
 87
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2013 Domaine Jean Goulley &amp; Fils Chablis
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

Anyone who loves fly-fishing
and trout as much as I do must also have a soft spot for Izaak Walton’s The
Compleat Angler. First written in 1653 (there were many subsequent editions, to
which Walton added to for another quarter of a century; when the last one
rolled out, the initial thirteen chapters had swollen to twenty-one), is one of
the most serious, complete books on fishing ever&nbsp;published. The Compleat
Angler is also a hotel belonging to the Macdonald chain of UK hotels and
restaurants, and located, appropriately enough, on the shores of the beautiful
upper Thames in the very pretty town of Marlow in Buckinghamshire. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1452918289157-view+river.JPG"> A view of the River Thames

The pretty hotel houses a pub
and two restaurants. I enjoyed breakfast, English tea and dinner at the hotel’s
aptly named Riverside restaurant. In fact, the idyllic riverside location is
the best thing about the Compleat Angler, a truly beautiful, romantic hotel that
is well worth a visit. Unfortunately, my weekend proved rather rainy (not unheard
of in the English countryside, I dare say), so the pretty outdoor terrace that
allows one to sit even closer to the water’s edge was unavailable. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1452918334885-IMG_0198.JPG"> 

Jerusalem artichoke arancini,
parmesan custard mustard frills

The food at the Riverside is
expertly prepared and interesting. Chef Michael Lloyd does British food well
(for example, Scottish beef, fresh wild fish,
outdoor-reared pork, free-range chicken, and Aberdeen-smoked salmon, the last
of these really outstanding), and uses quality, sustainably sourced ingredients.
Lloyd’s resumé includes stints alongside the
executive chef at Cannizaro House hotel in Wimbledon, as chef de partie at the Vineyard at Stockcross (a super fine dining
and outstanding wine destination, owned by Sir Peter Michael) and Heckfield
Place in Hampshire.

I enjoyed several really
lovely dishes, such as the pan-fried arancini and the scallops. The former were
light and airy, if not especially redolent of artichoke flavor, while the
scallops were fresh, juicy and intensely perfumed.. Both the beef filet and
lemon tart were highly satisfying if not especially memorable. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1452918359155-IMG_0200.JPG"> 

Filet of cod purée, parsley “tartare”, batter scaps

The wine list is
short and compact, and though there is nothing especially wrong with it, I
found little on it to tickle my fancy. A larger selection of some better-known
producers as well as older vintages would greatly enhance the dining experience
at what really is a very pretty dining destination. On this night the NV Moutard
Champagne Grande Cuvée proved a tasty
if uncomplicated starter, with bright lemony and floral aromas and flavors
nicely framed by bracing acidity. Moutard is not usually on my “bubbly radar”
but I signal that the house has recently released a new line-up of wines, “Les
Climats de Champagne” with single vineyard names designating three new bubblies
(Richardot, Les Troncs and Les Perrières) made from old vine Pinot Noir. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1452918371731-IMG_0205.JPG"> 

The 2104 Saint Clair Pinot Gris Rosé was a joy with the appetizers. Bright,
floral, and uncomplicated, with strawberry, cream and floral aromas and
flavors, it paired well with the appetizers, with ripe acidity nicely
complementing the fried arancini and adding a floral nuance to the briny
scallops. From a Chablis producer I am not especially acquainted with, the 2013 Domaine Jean Gouilley &amp; Fils
Chablis was a pleasant surprise. These wines, often sold under the Simone
Tremblay label (she was the wife of Jean and mother of current owner Philippe),
are made from organically certified grapes. Unoaked notes of lemon and flint
partnered admirably with the cod fillet. Not especially hungry and actually
quite tired on this night, I chose to eat my fillet of beef without red wine. 

If you are staying at The
Compleat Angler or passing by, tea and breakfast (both are served in the
Riverside location) are especially worthwhile and the two best moments to enjoy the Riverside’s magical setting. Alternatively
call ahead and ask about corkage, so as to enjoy dinner with some bottles from
your own cellar.

-- Ian D’Agata

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