Cornus

27c Eccleston Pl

London SW1W 9NF

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Sea bass tartar, oyster cream, green apple and shiso

Hand-picked Devon crab, Hass avocado sorbet with wasabi and finger lime

Cornish bluefin tuna, late summer tomatoes, blood peach, smoked almond pesto and basil

Roast Newlyn cod, persillade of Scottish girolles, line-caught squid, crisp potatoes and Alsace bacon

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Cornus has hit the ground running. It was a pleasure to see familiar faces, including co-owner David O’Connor. It is a place for a special meal, though, at the time of writing, a three-course lunch for £55 per person means Cornus does not price itself out of many people’s pockets. The standard of cooking is amongst the best I have encountered this year. The wine list is enticing. Service is impeccable.