Osteria Francescana

Via Stella, 22

Modena, Italy

Tel. +1 39 059 201 118

reserve@osteriafrancescana.it

Wine:

2010 Borgo del Tiglio Studio di Bianco  94

2010 Serragghia Zibibbo  92

2006 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo  99

Osteria Francescana and Proprietor/Chef Massimo Bottura continue to rack up an impressive series of recognitions and awards. I first tasted Bottura’s cuisine a few years ago at a gala event in New York City. A group of the finest Italian and American chefs teamed up to prepare a multi-course dinner for a large number of people. I don’t remember how many, but a lot. Bottura’s fish course (similar to the cod below) was simply extraordinary. His ability to execute that dish in a tiny kitchen was remarkable, especially since most chefs make far safer choices in those situations. I was hooked. 

Despite its informal sounding name, Osteria Francescana is anything but that. Widely recognized as one of the world’s top restaurants, Osteria Francescana is the backdrop for Bottura’s innovative, cutting-edge cuisine. The sleek, modern dining room comes as a bit of a shock at first, but its virtues become increasingly apparent over time. A minimalist aesthetic puts food front and center. With just twelve tables, Osteria Francescana offers a level of intimacy that is practically inconceivable in big city terms. Bottura himself makes the rounds a few times during service, explaining his creations and adding a personal touch that is rarely possible in a day and age when chefs are virtually required to manage global empires.

Massimo Bottura’s resume includes apprenticeships with Alain Ducasse and Ferran Adrià. Despite his international pedigree, Bottura is very much a man of Modena, something that is evident as he talks about some of his true passions, including the artisan side of Parmiggiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar and other local specialties. Many of the dishes are driven by incredibly concentrated reductions of key flavors and essences. Playful, whimsical, challenging and remarkably pure at the same time, this is cooking that will challenge all of the senses. Osteria Francescana offers three tasting menus: Traditions and Classics, plus Sensations, which is the most adventurous and the choice that inspired us on this day.

General Manager and Wine Director Giuseppe Palmieri oversees an extensive wine and spirits program. The wine list is ambitious and fairly complete by Italian standards, but not quite at the level of similar restaurants around the world. To be fair, though, I am not sure what a realistic expectation should be for a 30-seat restaurant in a medium-sized Italian city. On the plus side, diners will find many reasonably priced wines, including treasures from some of Italy’s top producers. Personally, when the food is this adventurous I prefer to keep wine on the simple side. I see quite a few dishes at other tables being paired with spirits, though, and my curiosity is piqued more than once.

We start with the 2010 Studio di Bianco from Borgo del Tiglio, one of my favorite Friulian producers. A blend Friulano, Sauvignon and Riesling, the 2010 has a gorgeous combination of aromatics, fruit and acidity. It’s always a gamble to choose a wine without knowing exactly what you are going to eat. Thankfully, the 2010 Studio di Bianco works beautifully with our first few courses.