<a target="_blank" href="http://www.aifiorinyc.com/">Ai Fiori</a>

400
5th Avenue 2nd Level/Langham Place Fifth Avenue

New
York, NY 10018

+
1 (212) 613-8660

Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=Tarlant+2000+antan">2000 Tarlant Extra-Brut Blanc de
 Blancs La Vigne d’Antan</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2004+Le+Pupille+Saffredi">2004 Le Pupille Saffredi</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2006+Oreno+Sette+Ponti">2006 Sette Ponti&nbsp;Oreno</a>&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2001+Pertimali+Brunello+di+Montalcino+Riserva">2001 Pertimali Brunello di
 Montalcino Riserva</a> 
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=Luciano+Sandrone%092003%09Barolo+Cannubi+Boschis">2003 Luciano Sandrone Barolo
 Cannubi Boschis</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2004+Vietti%09+masseria">2004 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 95+</td></tr></tbody></table>

Food:

Tortelli;
ricotta &amp; mascarpone ravioli, sottocenere, red wine glaze<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1387488943135-Ravioli+-+vinous+article.jpg"> 

Ippoglosso;
line caught Atlantic halibut, delicata squash, apple purèe, Brussels sprouts

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1387488964010-Bass+-+vinous+article.jpg"> Panna
Cotta; balsamic crema, fig, pomegranate, mandarin sorbetto<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1387488983916-Dessert+-+vinous+article.jpg"> 

Two recent
meals at Michael White’s Ai Fiori have been superb. This dinner featured a
number of my favorite wines, all of which showed beautifully.

Earlier this
year Marzia and I enjoyed an absolutely stellar lunch at Ai Fiori. Everything
was perfect; the setting, the food, the wines, and of course, the service. Chef
Michael White and his Chef de Cuisine PJ Calapa have a way of creating dishes
that captures the essence of the Italian kitchen in a way that introduces a few
twists but without straying off course. This three-course menu was simple, but
everything was cooked and seasoned perfectly. Readers who haven’t been to Ai
Fiori owe it to themselves to check it out. The bar scene is a bit more vibrant
than at Marea, White’s mid-town temple to fish and seafood, but things are a
bit more laid-back in the spacious, beautifully appointed dining room. Our
wines were delicious and paired very well with the food. For more on the wines,
readers might enjoy this <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/multimedia/ai-fiori-new-york-dec-2013">short video</a> I shot just before guests arrived.

I adore Benoit Tarlant’s Champagnes,
I just don’t see them as often as I would like. The 2000 Blanc de Blancs La Vigne d’Antan is stellar, with tons of deep
fruit and fabulous richness. It more than lives up to the promise I first
sensed years ago. What a gorgeous Champagne this is.

Elisabetta Geppetti’s 2004 Saffredi shows the sexiness and
silkiness of this great Tuscan vintage. Here it is the expressive bouquet and
silky tannins that stand out most. The 2004 can be enjoyed today and over the
next decade or so. Saffredi is one of my favorite Maremma wines and 2004 is one
of the top vintages. A much more powerful side of Tuscany comes through in the 2006 Sette Ponti a Sangiovese/Cabernet
Sauvignon/Merlot from vineyards near Arezzo. The 2006 still
boasts considerable power, but in this context it lacks a bit of finesse.
Pertimali’s 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is a poignant reminder of a time in the estate’s history when the
wines were consistently brilliant. Dusty red cherries, tobacco, Mediterranean
herbs and cedar lift from the glass in a super-classic Brunello that shows just
how exciting Sangiovese can be in Montalcino. Sadly, the Pertimali wines are
rarely this compelling today.

The 2003 Barolo Cannubi Boschis from Luciano Sandrone is gorgeous. Just
starting to show the early signs of tertiary complexity, the 2003 graces the
palate with dark red/blue fruit, licorice, mint and dried flowers. The 2003
isn’t going to get better from here, but it is absolutely stellar right now. This
is a gorgeous showing. Vietti’s 2004
Barbaresco Masseria is the most impressive wine of the evening, especially
with regards to its potential for the future. A super-classic profile of rose
petal, cinnamon, tar, plum and savory herbs lifts out of the glass in this
striking, mid-weight Barbaresco. On this night, the 2004 Masseria is incredibly
beautiful. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another 15-20
years of fabulous drinking. I have tasted a number of 2004 Barolos and
Barbarescos over the last few months and been very pleased with the way the
wines are developing.

-- Antonio Galloni

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