<a target="_blank" href="http://www.medlarrestaurant.co.uk/">Medlar</a>

438 Kings Road 

London, SW10 0LJ&nbsp;

BY NEAL MARTIN&nbsp;| JUNE 03, 2022The Food:

Canapés
– Aged Comté gougères

Cauliflower
velouté with roast Orkney scallop, ras el hanout and toasted almonds

Red
onion and goats cheese mousse tartlet with hazelnuts, mint and coriander pesto
and tooth chicory

Boudin
of corn-fed chicken with Crêpes Parmentier, leeks, pancetta, celeriac purée and
chestnuts

Cheese
course

Warm
chocolate mousse and salted caramel tartlet with milk ice cream and candied
pecans

The Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>1982
 Charles Heidseck Brut Millésime Champagne Charlie</td>
 <td>95</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>NV Henriot Cuve 38</td>
 <td>96</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1969 Maison Leroy Meursault
 Perrières 1er Cru</td>
 <td>87</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2005 Domaine François Raveneau
 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru</td>
 <td>92</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1999 Domaine Leflaive
 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru</td>
 <td>91?</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2014 Domaine Arnaud Ente
 Meursault Clos des Ambres</td>
 <td>95</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1964 Paul Jaboulet Aîné
 Hermitage La Chapelle</td>
 <td>97</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1964 Domaine de la
 Romanée-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru</td>
 <td>98</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1961 Domaine de la
 Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru</td>
 <td>90?</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1995 Pape-Clément</td>
 <td>89</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2016 Domaine J.L. Chave
 L’Hermitage</td>
 <td>97</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2010 Domaine J.L. Chave
 L’Hermitage</td>
 <td>98</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1999 Domaine J.L. Chave
 L’Hermitage</td>
 <td>95</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La
 Turque</td>
 <td>91</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2007 Emrich-Schönleber
 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Auslese</td>
 <td>92</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1959 Schloss Reinhartshausen
 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Beerenauslese&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</td>
 <td>95</td>
 </tr></tbody></table>

 I’ve
never been particularly fond of Chelsea. I’m talking about the London borough,
not the Big Apple’s. Maybe it is because of my Essex roots. The butt of jokes
since time immemorial, no wonder we developed an inferiority complex. Perhaps it
is this West Ham supporter’s aversion to Chelsea F.C.? Maybe it is the risible
“Made In Chelsea” docu-soap? Or spending many years living in scuzzy South
London and looking enviously across the Thames towards the posh streets of SW3?
But whenever walking down Sloane Street, I feel that the denizens of Chelsea
are looking down their noses at this interloper. They can sniff out somebody that
does not live in a swanky Chelsea townhouse with ongoing basement extension,
two 4x4 Range Rovers parked outside and infants at some highly-reputed boarding
school already networking with future captains of industry.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267507434-medlar+veloute.jpg">Cauliflower velouté with roast Orkney scallop, ras el hanout and toasted almonds 

On the
other hand, Chelsea has always had Medlar, one of the capital’s finest restaurants.
I must have entered its doors soon after it opened in 2011. They always
operated a flexible BYO policy, ergo it rapidly became a venue for many
off-line dinners. Then in 2015, it attracted the wrong headlines when it lost
its Michelin-star, a demotion many felt was harsh. It did not deter locals and
today, unlike many restaurants, Medlar is still packed with contented diners enjoying
chef Joe Mercer’s take on British and European cuisine. In my opinion, their
standard of cooking is better than ever: unpretentious yet with just the right
amount of flair and with greater execution than in the past. A good friend was visiting
from the United States recently and hosted a splendid dinner in its upstairs
dining room. Let’s just say, we ate and drank well.

We
began with (contentious statement ahoy) the best gougères in London. I’ve devoured
these puffballs of deliciousness a few times, and Medlar’s just have the warmth
and gooeyness that makes them irresistible.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267546501-medlar+goats+cheese.jpg">Red onion and goats cheese mousse tartlet with hazelnuts, mint and coriander pesto and tooth chicory Next, cauliflower
velouté with roast Orkney scallop, ras el hanout and toasted almonds. This was
supremely well executed, perfectly seasoned and balanced, the scallop flawless in
consistency and exquisitely offset by the bitterness lent by the almonds and
spiciness of the ras el hanout. The red
onion and goats cheese mousse tartlet with hazelnuts, mint and coriander pesto
and tooth chicory was an excellent follow-up, a classic dish perfected in the
kitchen. The upright chicory did look a bit odd, but again, everything was
beautifully balanced, simple but delivered with style and panache. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267583607-medlar+chicken_COPY.jpg">Boudin of corn-fed chicken with Crêpes Parmentier, leeks, pancetta, celeriac purée and chestnuts 

My main
course, a boudin of corn-fed chicken with Crêpes Parmentier, leeks, pancetta,
celeriac purée and chestnuts had a festive feel about it, which I forgive given
the tenderness and succulence of the bird. There was something comforting about
this dish, which could have easily been over-seasoned or excessively rich.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267610504-medlar+chocolate_copy.jpg">Warm chocolate mousse and salted caramel tartlet with milk ice cream and candied pecans 

I
skipped the fromage due to my dietary regimen, though that went to pot when I
dived into a warm chocolate mousse and salted caramel tartlet with milk ice
cream and candied pecans. I sliced it in half to control my calorie intake,
then of course, just ate both halves. I tried. I failed. Tant pis.&nbsp;

Now, on
to the fermented grape juice. The bottles proffered by guests this evening were
predictably spectacular. This was a mouth-watering array of fascinating,
thought-provoking, mature wines befitting the occasion, many in magnums bought
upon release.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267640325-medlar+heidseck+1982.jpg">We
commenced with two magnums of champagne. The 1982 Brut Millésime “Champagne
Charlie” from Charles Heidseck is a rare sparkler that deserves
explanation. This special cuvée, honouring Heidseck’s nickname, was made in
only five vintages: 1979,
1981 1982, 1983 and 1985. In 1978, cellar-master Daniel Thibault decided to
blend an exceptional cuvée predesigned to be an exaggerated version of the
regular release. It was discontinued when the company was bought out. The 1982
is a blend of 53% Pinot Noir and 47% Chardonnay and spent 15 years ageing on
the lees. Deep straw in colour, it has a mercurial nose that is slightly
oxidative at first, scents of grilled hazelnuts and lanolin. It magically gains
freshness in the glass, so that after one hour it seems to clarify, lose that
oxidative touch and develop Clementine and mandarin aromas. The palate is
slightly oily in texture, very concentrated with fine acidity, just a little
pétillance remaining. There is real weight and density, touch of spice, almond
and dried fig towards the finish that fans out wonderfully. Fabulous. The Non-Vintage
Cuve 38 from Henriot is another exceptionally rare champagne.
Released only in magnum, it was tricky trying to check the disgorgement date,
but the cork was branded “0616” inferring June 2016. This réserve perpetuelle,
which is to say that it is constantly topped up like a solera, comes from fruit
originating from Avize, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, Oger and Chouilly. It is named,
perhaps a tad unimaginatively, after the tank in which it ages and limited to
1,000 magnums. Very fresh and energetic on the nose, there are hints of citrus
lemon and petrichor - vibrant and penetrating. The palate is likewise surfeit
with energy and tension, perfect acidity with a very harmonious and slightly
minty, spicy finish. Surprisingly youthful, you would not guess that it is a
blend of mature reserves. 

The
first white was a 1969 Meursault Perrières from Maison Leroy. I
have to say, I was not taken with this bottle. Yes, the nose is interesting
with dried honey and beeswax scents, yet bereft the mineralité of a great
Perrières. The palate I found simple and rather innocuous. Nothing bad,
impressive in terms of its age, though I have much fonder memories of the ’71
Vosne-Romanée drunk just before Xmas at Tristan (Vinous Table coming up.)<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267653934-medlar+white+wines.jpg">Three
magnums were lined up for the next flight. The 2005 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine François
Raveneau offers a focused, shucked oyster-shell nose that is uncompromising
and hardly aged given that it is now 17-years-old…or young. The palate is
focused with a subtle marine, shucked oyster shell influence, lightly spiced
with veins of white chocolate and grilled almond. To be honest, I found it
impressive more than enjoyable at this stage, but maybe the larger format has hindered
its development? I might have given this a three-hour decant. The 1999
Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive is
astonishingly reductive on the nose. You might yell “Coche”, but frankly, the
nose must articulate the place where it comes from and here, well, it is rendered
a generic reduced nose. That is a shame because its quality shines through on
the palate: tight and saline with vivid malic notes, it gains plenty of weight
on the finish. The reduction does ebb a little after an hour but it detracts
from an otherwise very fine Grand Cru. Finally, the 2014 Meursault Clos des
Ambres from Domaine Arnaud Ente, a wine that I have had a couple of
times previously in bottle rather than magnum format. It is very convincing on
the nose with citrus peel, crushed stone and light grilled walnut aromas. It’s
quite dazzling considering it is a Village Cru. The palate is not amazingly
complex yet very well balanced, touches of bitter lemon, lemon thyme and ginger,
quite edgy on the finish. With time it revealed astonishing tension and
mineralité. 

The
next flight was a mouth-watering line-up.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267969963-medlar+hermitage+and+drc_final.jpg">First,
a magnum of 1964 Hermitage La Chapelle from Paul Jaboulet Aîné.
Lucid in hue, it sports modest bricking on the rim. Its initial tightness on
the nose soon disappears to reveal layers of melted red berries, allspice and
touches of wild mint, hints of potpourri/garrigues emerging with time. The
palate is fleshy and displays exquisite balance, the vestige of fruit framed by
filigree tannins, hints of strawberry and bay leaf as it fans out and deepens
on the captivating finish. Format and provenance play a role here, yet it was
undeniably Hermitage at its very best and at 58-years of age, one senses it has
no intention of stepping off its high plateau. Utterly transfixing. The 1964
Richebourg Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a wine that
I have drunk on one occasion, some 16-year ago (there is an interesting
backstory on why I opened it, but I’ll save that for another time.) Just like
then, it is utterly sublime. Compared to the Hermitage, this unfolds with each
swirl, touches of red cherry and bergamot, wilted rose petal and then more
exotic, richer aromas of kirsch begin emerging. It has an ethereal quality that
only the very best Burgundy wines possess. The palate is perfectly balanced
with a silver bead of acidity, so pure and elegant, hints of sour cherry and
soy, enormous depth on the velvet-smooth finish and a hint of Lapsang Souchong
on the aftertaste. This multi-dimensional wine is a wonder to behold. There was
one additional bottle served blind, and it turns out to be 1961
Romanée-Conti Grand Cru. This is actually my third bottle, but I must
admit, not my favourite example. Smoke, autumn bonfire on the nose, the palate
a little hard, transparent yet has an odd green pepper tincture on the finish,
a trait that I have not noticed on previous bottles, hence the question mark
against my score. 

The 1995
Pape-Clément is also served from magnum. Deep, almost opaque in colour, it
has a youthful bouquet, slightly reductive at first, pastille-like with
blueberry and cassis surfacing with time. The palate is marked by chewy
tannins, grippy and heady in style, certainly powerful with tobacco and black
pepper infused dark berry fruit. I find this a little heavy-going to be frank,
typical of the wines at the time, though I would be interested to revisit it in
a few years’ time.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1654267688150-medlar+rhone+wines.jpg">We then
returned to the Northern Rhône with three wines from arguably the greatest
producer of Hermitage: Domaine J.L. Chave. I used to drink and cellar a
lot from Chave and only recently have encountered a few bottles, including one
spectacular mature example saved for a forthcoming Cellar Favorite. The 2016
L’Hermitage came from another magnum. This strides authoritatively into the
room wanting to make a big impression with its penetrating scents of maraschino
cherries, blueberry and cassis on the nose, bunches of violet intermingling
with olive tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and
spine-tingling acidity. Yes, it is way too young to broach, yet the pedigree of
this Hermitage is patently obvious. The 2010 L’Hermitage is just as
intense on the nose, maybe higher-toned with a little more VA than the 2016.
Black plum, cassis, allspice and a huge dose of extravagance, this is Hermitage
pumping on all cylinders. The palate is armed with silky tannins, enormous
depth with no hard edges. Its opulence brilliantly disguises the structure
underneath – a fabulous wine that has decades ahead. The 1999 L’Hermitage
is an entirely different proposition with melted red fruit, clove, Italian
meats and a touch of garrigues, biding its time before opening fully. The
palate is reaching full maturity with firm tannins, red fruit infused with
clove and thyme, less dense and muscular than bottles I tasted several years
ago. Perhaps I would still afford it just another couple of years in bottle. There
was one addition. The 2003 Côte-Rôtie La Turque from E. Guigal is
a wine that I remember buying on release and then sold when I didn’t really
appreciate the style of the vintage. It has a decadent bouquet with blue fruit,
orange zest, marmalade and a fair bit of alcohol. The palate is sweet and
exotic on the entry, dense and powerful, though I cannot help but wishing there
is more acidity and tension on the finish. For someone else’s palate. 

We
finished with two German Rieslings. The 2007 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen
Riesling Auslese from Emrich-Schönleber came in a magnificent
magnum. It has a wonderful bouquet with scents of yellow plum and kumquat, a
touch of petrol emerging with time, yet maintaining superb focus and
definition. The palate fizzes with energy and tension thanks to its spine of
acidity, orange zest and fresh Nashi pears, segueing into a slightly peachy
finish. Great length and persistence in the mouth, this is Riesling at its
best. The 1959 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Beerenauslese from Schloss
Rheinhartshause is a perfect way to finish any dinner. Deep amber in hue,
the nose offers a kaleidoscope of aromas: crème brûlée, nougat and just a touch
of caramel, all delivered with impressive definition considering age and
sweetness. The palate is perhaps not as decadent as the nose, just a hint of
petrol infusing the luscious, honeyed fruit, yet there is an underlying
salinity that keeps everything in check. After seven decades this is still
going strong, a Beerenauslese that should reach a century with ease.

It was an
outstanding evening of fine food, fine wine and even finer friendship. Medlar delivered
yet again, not just in terms of the impressive standard of cooking that
complemented these bottles with aplomb, but particularly the sommelier team
that handled all these bottles with care, skill and all-important smiles. If
you find yourself walking down King’s Road, then do treat yourself to lunch or
dinner at one of SW3’s finest restaurants. And I do like Chelsea,
despite my opening diatribe. I probably just wish I lived there! © 2022, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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