99 East 52nd Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 754 – 9494
April 2007
The Four Seasons is a Manhattan landmark. The gorgeous rooms, which were designed by Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson, represent a timeless elegance that is just as remarkable today as it was in 1959 when the restaurant first opened its doors.
Managing Partner Julian Niccolini holds court, personally greeting his guests, many of whom are luminaries from political and economic circles. At night the ambience transforms dramatically, especially in the Pool Room. With its large lit pool that reflects soft light onto the walls and ceiling, the Pool Room remains one of New York’s most evocative and romantic spots. Although the cuisine is best described as contemporary American, Niccolini keeps a supply of the finest Italian cured meats and cheeses on hand, not to mention superb white truffles that are available in season. There may be trendier restaurants in New York, but there are few places where diners will eat as well as at The Four Seasons.
We started with a delicious platter of Kumamoto oysters which we enjoyed with a tasty Crémant whose name I forgot to write down. The langoustines and cucumber fettuccine that followed were delicately seasoned and quite tasty. One of the evening’s highlights was undoubtedly the day boat scallops generously topped with caviar. At this point the dinner could have come to a close and I would have been perfectly happy, but there was more to come. The risotto with morels and peas was the quintessential expression of spring. Long Island duck with rhubarb compote is one of The Four Seasons’ signature dishes and crispy, roasted duck proved to be an ideal match for our sturdier wines. The Kobe beef took things to another level, with its superb flavor intensity and sensual texture. A timeless classic, the Grand Marnier soufflé was a decadent dessert with which to conclude this delicious dinner.