<a target="_blank" href="http://www.lasubida.it/">Al Cacciatore (La
Subida)</a>

Cormons, Localita
Monte

22 Tel +39 0481 605
31

Fax +39 0481 623 88

September 2007

No trip to Friuli is complete without a visit to Al
Cacciatore. Proprietors Joško and Loredana Sirk offer a refined version of
country-style cooking in their homey, old-fashioned trattoria. Located in the
hills of Cormons, Al Cacciatore reflects everything that is fascinating about
this region so steeped in the traditions of multiple cultures. I remember the
first time I ate at here, nearly five years ago, and how blown away I was by
the unique combination of flavors that characterize this cooking. Savory and
sweet flavors are used together in combinations that show a distinct link to
the kitchens of Northern and Eastern Europe. The Sirks also feature the vast
richness of local products like the delicate oils of the nearby Carso
mountains, the unique smoked Prosciutto d’Osvaldo and a variety of
micro-production artisan cheeses, to name a few. The wine list is extensive and
very well-chosen, especially when it comes to the wines of the Sirk’s vintner
friends. On my most recent visit highlights included the Frico, a typical dish
made from fried Montasio, and the stuffed zucchini flowers, which were perfumed
and delicate. I also loved the corn soup for its richness and the ravioli for
the purity of its late summer flavors.

Edi Kante’s Sauvignon
is typically a mineral-driven white that reflects just as much Carso terroir as
it does varietal characteristics. His 1997
Sauvignon had gained weight in bottle and developed a very beautiful
honeyed quality that complemented the notes of crushed rocks and flowers that
flowed from the glass. It was a beautiful wine for our first courses. We wanted
to drink a red with some bottle age to accompany our heartier dishes. The
sommelier did an outstanding job in guiding us towards the 1994 Rosso della Centa from Borgo del Tiglio. This
Bordeaux-inspired wine was simply stunning in its expression of vibrant dark
fruit, herbs and roasted coffee beans. Sumptuously layered, long and pure, it
was a wine that kept changing throughout the evening, showing a new dimension
to its personality with each taste. On this night it would have easily given
any of the better-known similar wines from Tuscany a run for their money.

Food:

Frico

Ricotta salata over polenta

Stuffed zucchini flowers

Corn soup

Roasted zucchini bocconcini on a Sambuca cream Course 6:
Ravioli filled with vegetables

Oven-roasted rabbit

Selection of local artisan cheeses

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1997
 </td>
 <td>
 Edi Kante Sauvignon
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1994
 </td>
 <td>
 Borgo del Tiglio Rosso della Centa
 </td>
 <td>
 94</td></tr></tbody></table>

--Antonio Galloni

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