Tempura Matsu (天ぷら松)

21-26 Umezu Onawabacho

Ukyo Ward

Kyoto

615-0925

Japan

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Boiling black squid with dashi

Sea bream in aubergine and rice vinegar sauce

Squid and sea bream sashimi

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The Michelin guide has not recognized Tempura Matsu. It is rather a Kyoto institution that attracts locals and those piqued by Goulding’s aforementioned book. As I mentioned before, there is something timeless about this restaurant that foments from its half-century of history, its rustic, almost tavern-like interior and its straightforward dishes.