<a target="_blank" href="http://quincerestaurant.com/">Quince</a>470 Pacific AvenueSan Francisco, CA 94133+1 415 775-8500BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JULY 20, 2017Food:CanapeBlack Diamond&nbsp;Golden Osetra Caviar Panna CottaArtichoke; Monterey Bay Squid, Blood Orange, Puntarelle&nbsp;Sunchoke; Dungeness Crab, Red Bell Radish, Preserved LemonGarganelli; Lobster, Black Cabbage, Black Trumpet MushroomBottoni; Pumpkin, Lapsang Souchong, Parmigiano ReggianoAcquerello Risotto with Black TruffleAgnolottini; Paine Farm Squab, Broccoli di Cicco, Perigord Truffle&nbsp;Tortellini with Butter, Parmigiano ReggianoMarcho Farms Veal, Swiss Chard, Hedgehog Mushroom, CeleriacApple; Coconut, Oxalis, Kaffir LimeCandy Cap; Hazelnut, Caramelia Chocolate, MeringueMignardises; Chocolates, confections&nbsp;Wine&nbsp;


















<table>
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 NV (2010) Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les
 Pierrières&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
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 94
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 <td>
 2014 Miani Friulano 
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 <td>
 90
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 1964 Castello di Verduno Barolo&nbsp;&nbsp; 
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 96
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 NV Borgogno Barolo Chinato Classico Stravecchio&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
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 92
 </td>
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</tbody></table>


















At its best, Chef/Owner Michael Tusk’s cooking artfully
blends elements of innovation and tradition in dishes that are inventive and
bold, with a touch of the whimsical. This dinner at Quince was full of
highlights, even if there were a few rough spots. Regardless, we had a great
time. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1500589325309-Caviar.jpg"> Golden Osetra Caviar Panna Cotta&nbsp;Ordinarily, I advise readers to avoid Valentine’s Day and
the days around it, as this is quite possibly the single worst time of the year to eat
out. But schedules are what they are, and I found myself with a last minute reservation
at Quince for dinner with two of our engineers at Delectable for what turned
out to be a pretty outrageous staff meal. We were seated in the salon bar area,
which was fine. But as the evening wore on, it became increasingly distracting
to look at an emptying dining room from the outside. The staff should have
moved us, and the person dining next to us (who was alone), into the main
dining room as soon as tables became available. That might sound like a fine
point of hospitality, but it is exactly attention to the smallest details that
separates truly world-class establishments from the rest. Our meal was very enjoyable, although there were a few
misses. Quince offers two tasting menus, priced at $180 and $220, before
supplements, but including service, so dinner is not inexpensive. We opted for
the longer tasting menu and let the kitchen do the rest, which included two
courses that weren’t on the menu we received at the end of the night; the
Acquerello Risotto and Tortellini. Service was impeccable. If anything, having
the toasts served with the caviar replaced immediately after a few minutes of
conversation was a bit of overkill. But that is a small critique.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1500589340222-Garganelli.jpg">Garganelli; Lobster, Black Cabbage, Black Trumpet Mushroom


















Nearly every course was superb. I especially enjoyed the
many pasta courses, where Tusk seems to have a gifted mind and a magic touch. The
Garganelli with Lobster, Black Cabbage and Black Trumpet Mushroom was rich,
luscious and deeply satisfying, while the Bottoni with Pumpkin, Lapsang
Souchong, Parmigiano Reggiano was a delicious interpretation of a traditional
filled pasta found throughout northern Italy. We added the Acquerello Risotto
with Black Truffle to our menu. It sounded better than it tasted. I don’t
understand the logic of taking a famous rice, extolling its many virtues, and
then covering it up with excess seasoning. I would have preferred the rice to
be cooked a bit more al dente, but
that is, admittedly, highly subjective. The black truffle topping had a texture
I can only describe as being akin to that of a fruit roll up. This was the only
dish of the evening that was truly disappointing. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1500589395311-Risotto+copy.jpg">Acquerello Risotto with Black Truffle


















Agnolottini with Paine Farm Squab, Broccoli di Cicco and Perigord
Truffle got things back on track in style. A portion of very simple Tortellini
with Butter and Parmigiano Reggiano showed how satisfying the classics can be.
I found the Marcho Farms Veal with Swiss Chard, Hedgehog Mushroom and Celeriac
tasty if not especially memorable. Although I am not a big fan of sweets,
Quince’s dessert courses were all terrific. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1500589408412-Agnolottini.jpg">Agnolottini; Paine Farm Squab, Broccoli di Cicco, Perigord Truffle&nbsp;


















Our wines were all fabulous. Olivier Collin is one of my
favorite growers in Champagne. His wines are radiant, vinous and soulful. The NV (2010) Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières
was the perfect wine to kick off a winter dinner. Rich, sumptuous and endowed
with character, the 2010 is even better now than it was upon release. I was
surprised to see Wine Director Jeff Kellogg serve Miani’s 2014 Friulano, a wine from one of the most difficult vintages ever
in Friuli. The Friulano was the best of the Miani 2014s when it was first released,
and it actually showed quite well, especially with the food. The steeliness of
the year played off the rich, sumptuous flavors of some of the early courses
nicely. I couldn’t resist Castello di Verduno’s 1964 Barolo. Intensely aromatic,
lifted and translucent, the 1964 captures the sublime refinement that only
Nebbiolo is capable of. In the glass, the 1964 is hauntingly beautiful and
utterly captivating. We are drinking history. What a gorgeous bottle of wine. Borgogno’s Barolo Chinato
Classico Stravecchio is the perfect conclusion to this rich meal.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1500589420581-1964Burlotto.jpg"> 


















By the time dinner was finished it was close to midnight. I
got the distinct feeling the staff wanted to get everyone out. I waited
tables when I was starting out, and know first-hand how brutally hard the restaurant life is. But
guests can never be aware of that. Especially at a world class restaurant. And every
guest must be treated the same. I did not see that, either. Even so, I
would have no hesitation returning to Quince, although my expectations won't be quite so high the next time around.

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