<a target="_blank" href="http://www.barboulud.com/nyc">Bar Boulud</a>

1900 Broadway (across
from the Lincoln Center) 

New York, NY 

Tel. (212) 595-0303

October 2008

This was my first dinner at Bar Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s new
winebar located right across the street from Lincoln Center. The casual,
bustling Bar Boulud serves rich bistro fare with an emphasis on traditional
French comfort foods such as charcuterie and steak frites. We were seated at a
large communal table which added to the informal, warm atmosphere. All of our
food was outstanding. The cuisine is definitely on the hearty side, so Bar
Boulud is not exactly the kind of place one can visit regularly, but the food,
service and atmosphere are first-class and make for a great dining experience.
A second recent dinner was just as outstanding.

Trimbach’s 1990
Riesling Clos St. Hune was nothing short of monumental. Layers of lime
peel, petrol, mango, flowers, minerals and passion fruit flowed from the glass
in stunning style. The wine showed profound depth and clarity in an
extraordinary display of sheer class, with sweet notes of basil and sage that
lingered on the long finish. This was a perfect wine to pair with our
appetizers as the sweet bouquet was utterly captivating and the bright acidity
provided a perfect foil to the richness of the charcuterie. It was one of the
most breathtaking, profound wines I have ever had the privilege of drinking.
Unfortunately Joly’s 1985 Coulee de la
Serrant was rather monolithic in its suggestions of marzipan, almonds and
smoke. It remained one-dimensional and angular throughout the course of the
evening, with little development in the glass.

The 2000
Griottes-Chambertin from Fourrier
presented somewhat advanced aromas and flavors. A mid-weight wine, it floated
on the palate in a sensual, transparent expression of sweet Pinot fruit, autumn
leaves, spices and earthiness. This was a beautiful Burgundy to behold in the
glass as much for its shortcomings as its attributes. In that sense, it was a
very human wine that perfectly embodied the qualities of this site and vintage
as captured by Fourrier. Rouget’s 2000
Cros Parantoux (magnum) revealed high-toned aromatics and tons of vibrant
fruit in a seamless, layered style. This generous, engaging wine was endowed
with tons of density as well as freshness. It was sublime. While the Fourrier
offered a fairly complete, mature drinking experience, the Rouget gave the
impression of being built for the long haul. Both Burgundies were exceptional
with my braised flatiron steak and my wife’s steak frites.&nbsp;

Food:

Assorted Charcuterie

Roasted Diver Sea Scallops, Brussels Sprouts, Concord Grapes

Braised Flatiron Steak, Carrot Mousseline, Onion Confit&nbsp;

Wine:

<table><tbody><tr><td>1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Trimbach Riesling Clos. Ste Hune
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Nicolas Joly Coulee de la Serrant
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Rouget Cros Parantoux (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 94</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Photo and credit: Bar Boulud, New York]--Antonio Galloni

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