Jackson Hole Wine
Auction Charity Dinner at Daniel

<a target="_blank" href="http://danielnyc.com">Daniel</a>

60 East 65th St., New
York, NY

tel. (212) 288-0033

August 2007

This fantastic dinner at Daniel was auctioned at the Jackson
Hole Wine Auction. The generous and passionate wine lovers who purchased the
dinner recently convened in New York to enjoy a breathtaking collection of
lovingly-cared for wines provided by Robert Parker paired with the
extraordinary cooking of Chef Daniel Boulud. Daniel Johnnes and his team of
sommeliers made sure the wines were served with the utmost care.

Chef Boulud’s menu was phenomenal. His virtuosity showed
through in his ability to match textures, and not just flavors, to the wines.
For example, the salt crusted dorade served alongside a flight of Rayas
Châteauneufs was an inspired combination. Other highlights included the citrus
glazed scallops and the twenty-four hour braised veal shank, which were just as
beautiful to look at as they were delicious to eat. Even though the dishes were
all deeply-flavored the cuisine remained elegant and light on its feet.

As for the wines, well, they were spectacular. Once again,
the importance of storage showed, particularly in the older wines, which had
aged with notable grace. The 2003
Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine revealed exotic,
tropical aromatics and ripe passion fruit, ginger and lime notes, but most of
its appeal was immediate as it lacked length as well as complexity. Raveneau’s 2002 Chablis Montée de Tonerre
was superb with the Peekytoe crab. Smoke, minerals and citrus peel all flowed
from this superbly focused, taut wine. It will be fascinating to see how the
wine evolves but it was beautiful and so promising on this night. The 1995 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers from
Michel Niellon offered more volume and breadth in its palate-coating notes
of roasted nuts, smoke and unctuous, ripe fruit. It was a gorgeous wine. Our
first flight concluded with the 1996
Marcassin Chardonnay Lorenzo. This delicious New-World expression of
Chardonnay offered awesome balance. It was of course riper and weightier than
the Burgundies, but was immensely rewarding for its lush, generous expression
of fruit and subtly interwoven tertiary notes. I was amazed by the freshness of
Gagnard’s 1989 Chassagne-Montrachet Les
Caillerets. Medium in body, it revealed engaging, floral aromatics, spices
and sweet fruit with lovely balance as well as proportion. Leroy’s 1985 Meursault-Genevrières revealed awesome depth in its
richly-textured expression of ripe fruit intermingled with smoke and scorched
earth flavors. The wine had a wild, almost untamed quality which several
tasters appreciated more than I did. I thought the 1985 Domaine des Comtes de Lafon Meursault-Charmes was beautiful
for its precision, elegance and overall sense of balance. Seamless from start
to finish, it was the most complete and compelling wine of this grouping.

The flight of Rayas that followed was extraordinary. The
only wine that seemed a little out of place was the 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It offered attractive suggestions of
sweet licorice, underbrush and herbs, but didn’t have the depth of fruit of the
wines that would follow. Rayas’ 1995
Châteauneuf-du-Pape was sublime. Fresher than the 1998, this beautifully
proportioned wine revealed layers of sweet dark fruit, spices and earthiness
that danced on the palate with extraordinary finesse. The 1988 Châteauneuf-du-Pape presented a more linear, compact
personality in its ethereal smoke, licorice and dark fruit flavors. I was blown
away by the 1985 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
A wine that continued to improve in the glass, it was richly-textured and
opulent, with expansive fruit that lingered on the palate for an eternity. It
came across as incredibly youthful, in fact I would have never pegged it for a
22 year old wine had I tasted it blind. Unfortunately the 1979 Châteauneuf-du-Pape was corked.

A beautiful flight of Ponsot’s
Clos de la Roche was served alongside the rabbit. The 1990 Clos de la Roche was surreal in the way it balanced the
opulence of its fruit while still offering remarkable detail and purity. This
stunning wine was incredibly fresh and vibrant considering its 17 years of age.
It was one of the highlights of the evening. The 1985 Clos de la Roche revealed a little more nuance than the 1990
if not quite the generosity of that wine. It too was completely engaging in its
expression of ripe fruit, herbs and spices. Ponsot’s 1983 Clos de la Roche offered more advanced suggestions of
coffee beans and spices with gorgeous depth to its fruit and a somewhat rustic,
yet pleasing, personality. The 1980 Clos
de le Roche revealed a similarly rustic style in its black olives, dark
cherries and spices. A big, powerful wine, it probably needed more air to show
at its best as it was constantly changing in the glass and offered immense
pleasure. I could sense more than a little regret at the table among those who
finished their pours quickly!

Chef Boulud’s braised veal shank was an inspired pairing to
our flight of Barolos. Giuseppe
Mascarello’s 1990 Barolo Monprivato captured the essence of this warm
vintage in its generous ripe fruit, and sensual, soft-textured personality. Sandrone’s 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis
was also terrific, but not quite as monumental as it has been in the past. This
was the second recent bottle of this wine that has been less than profound. The
fruit was still fresh and vibrant, but its concentration had dropped off which
made me think that perhaps its peak drinking window had arrived. Einaudi’s 1989 Barolo was very classic,
not extraordinary, but a wine where everything was in the right place for
maximum pleasure on this night. I was looking forward to tasting Sobrero’s 1982 Barolo but this bottle
was highly volatile and oxidized. Giacosa’s
1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda was in terrific shape, and this was one
of the freshest bottles I have ever had. It offered a heady combination of
roses, tar, licorice and sweet, ethereal fruit in the linear, precise style of
this mythical vintage. The 1989 Barolo
Riserva Collina Rionda would have been the perfect conclusion to this
flight…except it was corked. I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later,
but a corked bottle of Giacosa’s greatest Barolo was especially painful.

That disappointment was quickly forgotten with the
mind-blowing flight of northern Rhônes
that were served with the cheese course. Chave’s
1989 Hermitage was simply gorgeous in its expression of earthiness, spices
and perfumed sweet fruit that carried all the way to the finish. I was blown
away by Chave’s 1991 Cuvée Cathelin.
Still incredibly fresh, this vibrant, opulent wine revealed extraordinary
precision and nuance in a full-bodied style. Dark cherries, cassis, earthiness,
smoke and graphite all made an appearance in this breathtakingly pure,
expressive wine. The 1989 Chapoutier
Hermitage Le Pavillon was incredibly intense and powerful. Made in a dark,
somewhat alcoholic style, it came across as dark, rich and totally seductive in
its expression of dark fruit, flowers and cassis. The 1989 Guigal Côte Rôtie La Turque revealed a more linear, medium
bodied personality, with attractive smoke, earthiness, herbs and sweet dark
fruit. Guigal’ 1989 Côte Rôtie La
Landonne could not have been more different. This super-ripe, dark Côte
Rôtie boasted awesome concentration and richness in its black fruit, spice and
chocolate flavors. This was a truly phenomenal flight.

Sine Qua Non’s 2003
Mr. K The Noble Man (100% botrytised Chardonnay) was one of the most
remarkable sweet wines I have ever had. Despite its size and richness, it
offered notable complexity and an engaging, unique personality. I loved it.
Several additional bottles were opened after dinner, but I only had time to
sample Chave’s 2000 Cuvée Cathelin,
which was monumental. It was a privilege to taste, but also a shame to open so
early. If the 1991 seemed young, the 2000 came across as a veritable new-born.
Those fortunate enough to own this wine are in for a treat, although I suspect
it won’t hit its stride for another decade or so. And with that, this wonderful
dinner at Daniel drew to a close. As always, I was humbled by the passion,
generosity and stimulating conversation that the world’s greatest wines inspire.&nbsp;

Food:

Pate of quail and foie gras “aux raisins”

Maine Peekytoe crab salad

Salt crusted dorade

Duo de Lapin

Twenty-Four Hour Braised Veal Shank

Fromages de France

Raspberry-Lemon Vacherine

Vanilla Poached Peach

Wine:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2003
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2002
 </td>
 <td>
 Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonerre&nbsp; 
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1995
 </td>
 <td>
 Michel Niellon Chassagne Montrachet Les Vergers
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996
 </td>
 <td>
 Marcassin Chardonnay Lorenzo Vineyard
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Leroy Meursault-Genevrières
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine des Comtes de Lafon Meursault-Charmes
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998
 </td>
 <td>
 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1995
 </td>
 <td>
 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988
 </td>
 <td>
 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Ponsot Clos de La Roche
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Ponsot Clos de La Roche
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1983
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Ponsot Clos de La Roche
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1980
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Ponsot Clos de La Roche
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Sobrero Barolo&nbsp; 
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 G. Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Einaudi Barolo 
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Chave Hermitage
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Chapoutier Hermitage Le Pavillon
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Guigal Côte Rôtie La Turque
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Guigal Côte Rôtie La Landonne
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2003
 </td>
 <td>
 Sine Qua Non Mr. K The Nobleman
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin
 </td>
 <td>
 97</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Photo and credit: Daniel, New York]--Antonio Galloni

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