<a target="_blank" href="http://www.themodernnyc.com/">The Modern</a> 

The Museum of Modern
Art, 

9 West 53rd Street
(between Fifth and Sixth Avenues), 

New York , NY 10019 

Tel: + 1 212 333 1220

March 2009

This was my first time eating at the Modern, the luxury
restaurant in New York City’s Museum of Modern Art. Before dinner my wife and I
spent some time wandering through the museum’s galleries, something I highly
recommend, as the MOMA’s collection is superb. The early evening is a great
time to visit as the crowds are gone and it is easy to focus on the artwork
without feeling rushed. Downstairs the Modern provides a similarly relaxing
setting in which to enjoy a fine meal. There is also a more informal bar area
which serves a simpler menu. Chef’s Gabriel Kreuther’s cuisine features
elements of French, American and Asian cuisines with influences from his native
Alsace. As good as the food can be, some of the dishes are a touch on the rich
side. Wine Director Belinda Chang oversees a comprehensive list with a number
of wines that are well-suited to the food.

I am a huge lover of the Alsatian Tarte Flambée, and the
Chef Kreuther’s version was delicious. I could have eaten at least two of these
on my own! The sweetness from the onions with the applewood smoked bacon and
crème fraîche all worked together nicely. The hamachi was also well done,
particularly in the way the bright texture and flavor of the raw fish melded
with the richness of the black truffle and foie gras. Lafon’s 2004 Meursault Clos de la Barre was simply brilliant in its
usual understated way, with layers of perfumed, mineral-driven fruit wrapped
into a coiled frame. Louis Sipp’s 1978
Riesling Grand Cru “Kirchberg” was a much more difficult and intellectual
wine. At first, the acidity was positively searing, but with food the wine
truly came to life. The typical mature Riesling notes of petrol, minerals and
ash were all in evidence as this taut, focused wine opened up in the glass.

The squab (filled with foie gras) was crispy on the outside
and juicy on the inside. The Asian-inspired ginger jus added a touch of
brightness to this otherwise rich, weighty dish. Pégaü’s 2005 Châteauneuf-du- Pape Cuvée Reservée was deeply colored
and incredibly intense. The wine revealed tons of fruit, inner sweetness and
concentration; if not quite the complexity I had hoped for. The 2005 Barolo Brunate from Vietti was much more expressive in its
dark, fruit and layered, balsamic nuances. The Pégaü remained a somewhat static
wine that was most impressive for its textural richness, but I preferred the
Vietti, as it took us on more of a journey throughout the evening, constantly
revealing the kaleidoscopic shades of nuance for which the Brunate vineyard is
so justly famous.&nbsp;

Food:

Tarte Flambée with crème fraîche, onion and applewood smoked
bacon 

Hamachi, Black Truffle and Foie Gras Millefeuille, Truffle
Vinaigrette 

Ravioli of escargot with slow poached quail eggs, escargot
caviar and mustard greens 

Squab and Foie Gras “Croustillant” with Caramelized Ginger
Jus and Farm Vegetables

Artisan Cheeses&nbsp;

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2004
 </td>
 <td>
 Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978
 </td>
 <td>
 Louis Sipp Riesling Grand Cru “Kirchberg"
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2005
 </td>
 <td>
 Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Reservée
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2005
 </td>
 <td>
 Vietti Barolo Brunate
 </td>
 <td>
 94</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Photo and credit: The Modern, New York]--Antonio Galloni

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