Bellavitae [Closed]

24 Minetta Lane,

New York, NY 10012 

(212) 473-5121

March 2009

Proprietor Jon Mudder left the high-flying world of
investment banking to open Bellavitae a few years ago. Based on what has
transpired in global markets of late, it looks like his timing was brilliant.

Bellavitae is one of my favorite places in New York for
simple, homemade Italian comfort food of the highest level that is based on the
freshest and highest quality ingredients. The service is exceptional and the
kitchen will split almost all of the dishes, which allows guests to sample a
wide variety of the house specialties, an approach I heartily recommend. My two
most recent dinners were outstanding, and this article aggregates the food and
wine of both meals.

The small plates of fried arancini and meat balls were
perfect to share amongst friends. The Galloni prosciutto (no relation) was
incredibly luscious yet delicate, as was the Mozarella di Bufala which had been
flown in that day. Both pastas we ordered were tasty, but the Pappardelle with
Lamb Ragú was perhaps just a touch more flavorful. For the main course, we went
to our usual choice, the Tuscan steak, which was cooked and seasoned to
perfection. I am not a huge sweets person, so Bellavitae’s simple, homemade
desserts are my cup of tea. The Ricotta Cheseecake in particular was
divine.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Bruno Giacosa’s 2007
Arneis was simply beautiful in its floral, honeyed fruit. The wine showed
tons of inner sweetness balanced by a clean, minerally finish. It was one of
the best bottles of this wine I have tasted and it paired beautifully with the
arancini and meatballs. Ceretto’s 1996
Barbaresco Bricco Asili was phenomenal. A big, explosive wine, it revealed
tons of fruit in an expansive, generous style. The wine was still young, but
the oak was beautifully integrated and the balance was exceptional. Readers
lucky enough to own this gem can look forward to another 15-20 years of very
fine drinking. The 2004 Barbaresco
Riserva Asili from the Produttori del Barbaresco was an entirely different
animal. Medium in body, this layered, perfumed Barbaresco revealed remarkable
depth and clarity in a less immediate style than the Ceretto. This wine is all
about potential, and there is no shortage of it here. I immediately picked up
another 6 bottles. Wow.

This was the second bottle I have had recently of Mascarello’s 1997 Barolo Riserva Ca’ d’
Morissio, and it was truly special. Upon opening, the wine appeared a touch
tired but it freshened up and blossomed over several hours in a decanter. A
kaleidoscope of red fruit, smoke, minerals, spices and licorice flowed from
this sweet, utterly captivating Barolo. Everything was perfectly in place.
Simply put, this Barolo was pure magic. In 1999 Mascarello did not make his Riserva, but the 1999 Barolo Monprivato has always been one
of the finest wines of the vintage, as it was again on this night. The wine
showed less stuffing than the 1997 Ca’
d’ Morissio, yet it too was phenomenal in its endless layers of dark,
spiced fruit. The tannins have softened a bit, but this remains an
extraordinary young Barolo with several decades of prime drinking ahead of it.
I only hope I can keep my hands off the wine for enough years to see it reach
maturity! Both of these Barolos from Giuseppe Mascarello are essential
drinking.&nbsp;

Food:

Appetizers: Fried Risotto Balls with Tomato, Provolone, and
Prosciutto; Fried Little Meatballs; Hand-sliced Galloni Prosciutto di Parma;
Mozarella di Bufala 

Pasta: Fresh Pappardelle with Lamb Ragú, Fresh Fettuccine
with Sausage and fresh Mushroom Sauce 

Tuscan-style sliced Steak with Salsa Verde 

Dessert: Chocolate Gelato with Hazelnut Sauce, Tuscan-style
Panna Cotta 

drizzled with aged Balsamic Vinegar, Ricotta Cheese Cake&nbsp;

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2007
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Arneis
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996
 </td>
 <td>
 Ceretto Barbaresco Bricco Asili
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2004
 </td>
 <td>
 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Asili
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1997
 </td>
 <td>
 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Riserva Ca’ d’ Morissio 
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

-- Antonio Galloni

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