4-5 Takaokamachi
Kanazawa Setsuri
Kanazawa
Ishikawa 920-0864
Japan
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The Food:
Grilled squid with dashi, Japanese basil
Baby spring fish [ayu] with Tosazu vinegar sauce
Red sea bream, rice and caviar
Savory egg custard with matsutake, lily bulb and Bottarga sherbet
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It is easy to see why Kanazawa Setsuri is a popular local haunt. Sure, the food is absolutely top-notch, in a different league to what I find in the UK, even at exalted prices. The precision here is breathtaking. But what I really appreciate is the bonhomie of Kawada San and his assistant. They made it a dinner that was “fun." I just wish my Japanese was better so that I could have understood the wisecracks that had our doctor friends in stitches.
