Cloth
44 Cloth Fair
London EC1A 7JQ
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The Food:
Pea purée, whipped ricotta on toasted sourdough bread
Grilled leeks with hens’ eggs and potted shrimp vinaigrette
Cornish Monkfish with squid and Scottish langoustine bisque
Tagliatelle with girolles, Parmesan and lemon
Fries with Espelette pepper
Tiramisu
The Wine:
Cloth is doing nearly everything right. Clearly, it has hit the ground running. Despite its central location, it has a cozy ambiance, and Butterworth, gadding about the restaurant, is a lively and pleasing presence. Its wine list will be a strong draw for oenophiles, while the food is not a secondary consideration. There’s no pretension, and everything is refreshingly straightforward in the best way.
