<a target="_blank" href="http://www.laciaudeltornavento.it/ita">La Ciau del
Tornavento</a>

Piazza Baracco, 7

12050 Treiso Italy

Tel. +1 39 0173-638
333

May 2008

La Ciau del Tornavento is one of Piedmont’s most dramatic
dining rooms. Set in the hills of Treiso, in the heart of the Barbaresco zone,
La Ciau offers spectacular views of these gorgeous vineyards through large
sliding glass doors which are left open when weather permits. The tables are
spaced far apart, which adds to the feeling of calmness and serenity. La Ciau
is famous for its extraordinary wine cellar, which is one of the most
lovingly-cared for collections I have seen in Piedmont (the other is at Guido
in the Relais San Maurizio). Chef/Owner Maurilio Garola is passionate about
fine wines and it shows in the quality and quantity of the bottles he has
assembled. Only a portion of the wines in the cellar are actually on the list
at any given time. Readers who have the opportunity to take a tour through the
cellar should not hesitate to do so.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1379255989782-laciaudeltornavento+-+vinous.jpg"> 

Over the years La Ciau has acquired a reputation for
somewhat inconsistent cuisine, but that is largely because it is located in
Piedmont, where the competition is formidable, to say the least. Even the
occasional uneven meals here I have had would far outpace the level of what is
available in most Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, or New York for that
matter. This dinner was by far the best meal I have ever had at La Ciau, so my
hope is that the kitchen has addressed some of the issues of the past. La Ciau
is a beautiful spot for a lunch or dinner, and I am only sorry that so much
time had passed between visits.

One of the hallmarks of Chef Garola’s cooking is a greater
reliance on fish and seafood than is normally the case in the region’s other
restaurants of this level. The hazelnut-crusted shrimp was a dish that worked
surprisingly well in marrying delicately fried shrimp with hazelnuts, a staple
of the local kitchen. Jacques Selosse’s
NV Contraste (disgorged 2004) is one of the finest Pinot Noir-based
Champagnes on the market. This bottle was superb. The wine revealed beguiling
aromatics and waves of flavor in a large-scaled, dramatic style. Constantly
changing in the glass, the wine offered more than enough complexity and
structure to pair beautifully with a wide range of foods throughout the evening.&nbsp;&nbsp;

My tagliolini with porcini mushrooms was sublime, and easily
among the finest dishes I have ever enjoyed here. The braised pork was
delectable and packed with flavor. I was thrilled to find a bottle of Bruno Giacosa’s 2001 Barbaresco Riserva
Rabajà on the list. The wine was as monumental as it has always been. This
vibrant, beautifully-delineated wine revealed layer after layer of dark, ripe
fruit intermingled with sweet balsamic notes that danced on the palate with
uncommon grace, particularly for such a big wine. While some bottles have shown
overt oak flavors, this bottle offered remarkable seamlessness and balance. It
was a breathtaking wine that continued to develop positively over the course of
several hours.

I finished my last glass of the Barbaresco with a delicious
selection of Piedmont’s finest cheeses. I am not huge dessert person, so the
light cookies and pastries that were served with coffee were just enough to
satisfy my sweet tooth. This was phenomenal dinner at La Ciau. Readers in search
of a first-rate overall dining experience in Piedmont with an emphasis on wine
owe it to themselves to spend some time at La Ciau del Tornavento.

Food:

Hazelnut-crusted fried shrimp

Tagliolini with fresh porcini

Roasted pork shank

Artisan cheeses

Wine:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 NV
 </td>
 <td>
 Jacques Selosse Contraste (disgorged 2004)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2001
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

[Photo and credit:&nbsp;La Ciau del Tornavento, Trieste, Italy] &nbsp;-Antonio Galloni

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