<a target="_blank" href="http://atelier-robuchon-saint-germain.com/">Atelier de Joël Robuchon</a>

5 Rue Montalembert

75007 Paris, FranceTel: +33 1 42 22 56 56

BY IAN D’AGATA |
SEPTEMBER 8, 2016

The food:

Fresh marinated anchovies with
grilled red bell peppers (LES ANCHOIS
frais marinées aux poivrons rouges grilles) 

Iberico de bellotta ham and tomato
grilled bread (LE JAMBON “IBERICO DE
BELLOTA”escorté de pain grillé à la tomate)

Confit eggplant with a mille-feuille
of mozzarella and basil (L’AUBERGINE&nbsp; confite en mille-feuille à la mozzarella et au
basilic)

Prawns in crispy puff pastry
and basil (La LANGOUSTINE&nbsp; en papillotte croustillante au basilic)

Miso marinated black cod,
crunchy cucumber and yuzu infusion (LE
BLACK COD mariné au miso, concombre croquant dans une infusion au yuzu)

Ossobuco with a hint of
mustard in crunchy toast (L’OS A LA
MOELLE relevé d’une pointe de moutarde sur un toast friend)

The wines:



















<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2014 François Chidaine
 Montlouis sur Loire Clos du Breuil
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2013 Domaine de Souch
 Jurançon Sec
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2012 François Carillon Puligny-Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2013 André Peret Condrieu
 Chery
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

For many foodies, Joël
Robuchon is arguably the greatest chef in the world. Robuchon’s slews of
successful fine dining establishments all over the globe are a testament to his
cooking abilities. In Paris alone, readers can choose between two Ateliers; one
in the Opera district and a second in Saint-Germain-de-Près (SG de P), that I
visited recently.

The idea behind the Ateliers
seems to be high cuisine served in a friendly, vibrant and rather hip
environment. Reservations are a must, as well-heeled diners line up outside
waiting for their turn in. It all obviously works out very well, with
interesting dishes, happy customers, and decent wines. I certainly enjoyed my
latest meal at the SG de P Atelier. That said, I think that a two Michelin star
rating is a tad generous.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1473289641373-black+cod_cover+copy.jpg">

Miso marinated black cod, crunchy cucumber and
yuzu infusion

The Iberico de bellotta ham
and tomato grilled bread was a fine way to start the meal, but doesn’t ring any
bells and I have had even better Iberico ham elsewhere. The fresh marinated
anchovies with grilled red bell peppers were the best starter on this night - fresh
and pungent, briny and flavorful. The confit eggplant with a mille-feuille of
mozzarella and basil was fine if not especially memorable. Much the same can be
said of the prawn in crispy puff pastry and basil. By far the two best dishes
on the night, both undoubtedly of a two star level, were the miso marinated
black cod, crunchy cucumber and yuzu infusion (deliciously sweet and sour, and
the fish perfectly cooked) and the ossobuco with a hint of mustard in crunchy
toast, which was savory and intense.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1473289666207-ossobuco+copy.jpg"> 

Ossobuco with a hint of mustard in crunchy toast

The wine list at the Atelier
in SG de P is disappointing. The wines are not especially numerous and many
names aren’t found at the top of their respective categories. While I certainly
appreciate going after the lesser known or the not ultra-famous, at dining
establishments with this sort of reputation I expect much better. The 2014 François Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire
Clos du Breuil was an absolute winner, a lovely way to start the meal with
crispy and slightly sweet, if not especially concentrated, apple and pear
flavors that lingered nicely. The 2013
Domaine de Souch Jurançon Sec was dry and precise, if not particularly
persistent or complex. The François
Carillon’s 2012 Puligny-Montrachet, with its many facets and nuances, was a
poignant reminder of just how unique Chardonnay is in Burgundy. Last but not least, the usually
excellent 2013 André Peret Condrieu
Chery proved its mettle once again, with Viognier’s creamy, opulent texture
and pear and lime notes shining through on the long finish.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1473289705598-vini+copy.jpg">

Certainly, not all is well
with this specific Atelier, given the noise level, the bright and cool but cramped
eating space, the less than stellar wine list, and the not particularly low
food and wine prices.&nbsp; I’m not sure when
I’ll be back, in fact. That said, if you are out to just relax, kick back and
enjoy the scenery and the city, then the food and wine are more than good
enough to make this Atelier a fun choice for a care-free evening.&nbsp;

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