<a target="_blank" href="http://www.locandanelborgo.com/">Locanda nel Borgo
Antico</a>

Via Boschetti

4 12060 Barolo (CN) -
Italy

tel +39 0173 356355

fax +39 0173 560935

August 2007

La Locanda del Borgo Antico is one of my favorite
restaurants in Piedmont for a great all-around dining experience. The new
Locanda, which relocated a few years ago, is set among the vineyards that
straddle Barolo and Monforte. The décor is strikingly modern and minimalist
with tables that are set far apart, all of which create a spacious and relaxed
atmosphere. There is a semi-open terrace where guests can enjoy an aperitif
while perusing the menu and watching a spectacular sunset over the vineyards
when weather permits. Chef Massimo Camia offers a menu that combines lighter
versions of the classic Piedmontese dishes as well as a variety of his own
creations. The seared scallops were a nice departure from the meat starters
that are more typical in these parts. Chef Camia’s lightly sauced agnolotti
were sublime as we worked our way into the Barolos. The artichoke risotto with
squid was absolutely delicious. The unsual flavor combination worked much
better than I had expected. Rack of lamb is not found on too many menus in
Piedmont, so it too offered a refreshing change of pace. Camia served the lamb
on a scorching-hot stone designed to give each diner control over the
temperature of the meat. It was a superb dish.The 1991 Philiponnat
Clos de Goisses was delicate, floral and still quite fresh. Made in a more
linear, understated style for this wine, it really needed a couple of hours of
air to come into its own, but when it did it was lovely. I was curious to check
in on a couple of Barolos from 1997,
a vintage whose wines are just starting to enter the early part of maturity. Cavallotto’s Barolo Bricco Boschis Riserva
San Giuseppe was once again very impressive. In its youth it was rich and
opulent, but with time it has lost some of its baby fat, turning more and more
classic with each passing year. It revealed a gorgeous, floral aromatics and an
expansive personality, with plenty of fruit as well as structure. Still quite
fresh, it should continue to drink well for another 10-15 years, perhaps
longer. This was a great showing for the 1997 San Giuseppe. The 1997 Barolo Brunate from Ceretto
was more advanced than the Cavallotto in its color, aromas and flavors. It
offered pretty notes of spices, smoke, macerated cherries and a full-bodied
super-ripe personality. While the Cavallotto continued to open in the glass,
the Ceretto unfortunately never developed into a more interesting wine.

Food:

Seared scallops over lardo purée

Agnolotti with a light tomato sauce

Artichoke risotto with squid

Rack of lamb with roasted vegetables

Wine:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Philiponnat Clos de Goisses
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1997
 </td>
 <td>
 Ceretto Barolo Brunate
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1997
 </td>
 <td>
 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San
 Giuseppe
 </td>
 <td>
 94</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Photo and credit:&nbsp;Locanda nel Borgo Antico, Barolo, Italy]--Antonio Galloni

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