Soldera Brunellos and 1979 Champagnes at Alto Alto [Closed]

11 East 53rd Street,

New York, NY 10022

Tel: (212) 308-1099

April 2008

This amazing dinner was built around two themes: the
Brunellos of Gianfranco Soldera and a retrospective of the 1979 vintage in
Champagne. I am not quite sure how these two groups of wines came together at
the same dinner, but the combination worked. Along the way, we also enjoyed a
number of superlative Burgundies, Barolos and more Champagne. Chef Michael
White created a delicious menu to match the wines. All of the courses were
superb, but the Poached Egg was truly monumental. Wine Director Eric Zillier
and his staff did an amazing job keeping track of a multitude of bottles and
glasses throughout the evening. All I can say is, what a night!

This collection of Soldera Brunellos was by far the most
comprehensive I had ever tasted in one sitting and provided a fascinating
overview of this producer’s development. Readers who want to learn more about
Montalcino’s most iconic producer and his wines may want to take a look at my
recently published article in the Italy Report section of eRobertParker.com

Soldera’s 1977
Brunello di Montalcino opened with promising, ethereal aromas of worn-in
leather, spices and dark fruits, but it was less exciting on the palate. The 1979 Brunello di Montalcino was sweeter
and riper than the 1977 in its generous notes of tar, licorice, dark cherries
and spices. The 1981 Brunello di
Montalcino was not quite as opulent as the 1979 but it offered notable
harmony and elegance in a very refined, complete package. With the 1982 Brunello di Montalcino we tasted
the first wine that is clearly recognizable Soldera in style. This Brunello was
superb and on a totally different level from the preceding wines. Still quite
fresh, vibrant and layered, it was a masterfully sculpted, pure Sangiovese with
at least another decade of prime drinking ahead of it. Stylistically, it
reminded me of the great Barolos and Barbarescos of that vintage, which is
hardly surprising given Soldera’s passion for those wines. The 1983 Brunello di Montalcino was
drop-dead gorgeous. It showed superb inner perfume and a full-bodied, ripe and
opulent expression of fruit. The contrast between structured and fruit-driven
vintages was one of the themes that would emerge over the course of the
evening. Overall, this was a very fine flight, and all of the wines were
perfectly intact, which is quite an accomplishment for a producer who was very
young at the time these wines were made.

The 1984 Brunello di
Montalcino was one of the smaller-scaled wines of the night, but it showed
terrific balance and harmony in a fully mature style. Some tasters liked this
wine less than I did. Unfortunately, we didn’t do too well with our 1985s. The 1985 Brunello di Montalcino was corked,
while the 1985 Intistieti was
volatile and oxidized. The consistently disappointing performance of the
Intistieti bottlings was another point of discussion during the evening. The 1986 Brunello di Montalcino was similar
in style to the 1982, in its full-bodied, structured expression of Sangiovese.
This was a great bottle.

Soldera’s 1988
Brunello di Montalcino was all about finesse. A delicate, elegant wine, it
revealed layers of fruit that opened in the glass with remarkable purity. The
wine remained fresh and vibrant from start to finish. The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino presented a more opulent, seamless
expression of ripe fruit with compelling balance and superb drinkability. The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was
the wine of the night. This wine had it all; sensual, inviting aromatics melded
into a sweet, expansive palate as the wine opened to reveal the breadth of its
profoundness. Despite its fruit-driven style, there was plenty of structure
underneath providing balance. This was very nearly a perfect wine. The 1991 Intistieti was deeply flawed and
impossible to evaluate, but the 1991
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was better. It was a pretty wine, but
revealed some hard edges and an advanced, forward expression of fruit. The 1992 Intistieti was still fresh and
intact, but it offered very little fruit, which gave the wine an angular,
hard-edged personality.

The estate’s 1993
Brunello di Montalcino was one of the more forward wines of the night. Made
in a feminine style for this producer, it came across as a fairly advanced wine
to drink sooner rather than later. The 1993
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was better than the regular bottling, with
riper fruit and a more intense, vibrant expression of Sangiovese. The 1994 Brunello di Montalcino lacked the
stuffing to stand up to its structural components. It came across as angular
and lean, with drying tannins on the finish. The 1995 was the finest of the Intistietis
in this tasting. Full-bodied, ripe and sweet, it revealed outstanding
persistence and plenty of style. The 1995
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse took things to another level
entirely. It was a big, massive Brunello loaded with dark cherries, smoke,
licorice and tar. There was a purity and sheer beauty to this wine that was
absolutely irresistible.

The 1996 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva was either cooked or very evolved. Either way, it was
impossible to assess this wine with any degree of accuracy, so judgment is
reserved. Soldera’s 1997 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva came across as a modern-day version of the 1983 and
1990. The wine offered tons of super-ripe fruit that filled out its structured
frame with notable opulence. It was superb. The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino was gorgeous, perfumed and delicate. I
have experienced significant bottle variation with this vintage, but this
bottle was among the finest I have ever tasted. Soldera’s 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was monumental. Made
in a layered, gorgeous style, it showed tons of depth in its fruit and awesome
purity. The 2000 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva revealed a very ripe expression of fruit, but it lacked the
elegance and complexity of the finest vintages.

It was time for a break, and what better way to cleanse the
palate than with a few Champagnes? I have had mixed experiences with Dom Pérignon’s 1982 Rosé but this
bottle was quite pretty. It offered enticing aromatics and a delicate
expression of fruit that never completely lived up to the promise of the bouquet.
The 1975 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque was
extraordinary. Smoke, mint and mineral-infused fruit flowed from the glass in a
focused and perfumed wine of superb balance. This was a very pure, fresh and
intact wine, but then again, these recent rereleases from the estate have often
been nothing short of sublime.

I was thrilled to have the opportunity to taste this group
of 1979 Champagnes. Almost all of the wines showed brilliantly and continued to
develop throughout the evening. The 1979
Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill revealed gorgeous aromatics that
melded into a soft-textured, pure palate. This wine offered superb length and
an engaging, generous personality. The 1979
Roederer Cristal was initially rather disappointing and unexpressive. I
didn’t really get the wine until I tasted it at the end of the night. By that
time it had opened beautifully and its perfumed, silky-textured fruit was on
full display. It showed remarkable freshness and a delicate, feminine
personality. The 1979 Charles Heidsieck
Cuvée Charlie was one of the more forward wines in this flight, but it
offered pretty aromas and flavors in an understated style. The 1979 Piper
Heidsieck was not especially complex, but it more than compensated for that
shortcoming with exquisite overall harmony and balance. Taittinger’s 1979 Comtes de Champagne revealed a very sweet, almost
liqueur-like expression of fruit in generous, unctuous style that some tasters
appreciated more than others. The 1979
Dom Ruinart may have suffered by being placed after the Taittinger. It came
across as rather lean and focused, but it still showed outstanding balance and
plenty of personality.

The 1979 Krug was
breathtaking. There was so much going on in the glass, this wine commanded my
full attention as it constantly changed, revealing new sides to its personality
with each sip. Elegant, finessed and superbly beautiful, it revealed layer
after layer of flavor and a finish that lasted forever. The 1979 Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque enjoyed
a very strong showing, especially considering the wines that came before and
after it. This was a very pretty, small-scaled Champagne of exquisite balance.
The 1979 Salon was unquestionably
the showstopper here. It was easily the freshest of these wines, with its
signature taut, focused personality in full bloom. This Champagne came across
as incredibly youthful and vibrant. It was truly mesmerizing. The 1979 Deutz came across as
one-dimensional, but it was still intact. The 1979 Diebolt Vallois and the Ayala
were questionable, at best.

We had mixed success with a flight of older Barolos. A
bottle of Giacomo Conterno’s 1955 Barolo
Riserva Monfortino was cooked, while a bottle of his 1961 Barolo was freakishly flawed despite its pristine color. We
did better with the next two wines. The Conterno
1958 Barolo Riserva and 1958 Barolo
Riserva Monfortino were both intact and good, but not great, examples. Ponsot’s 1980 Clos de la Roche was big,
chunky and somewhat rustic, yet immensely rewarding. As the evening wound down
I re-visited most of the Champagnes and all of the top wines had improved over
the course of several hours. I couldn’t resist another taste of my favorites;
the 1979 Cristal, Krug and Salon, along with the 1975 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque
were all truly magic in a glass.

Food:&nbsp;

Poached Egg, Double-Cooked Pancetta, Asparagus, Black
Truffle, Parmigiano Crema and Grilled Pane Rustico

Braised Morel Mushrooms Filled With Black Truffle Mousse,
Wild Arugula and Parmigiano

Piedmontese Duck Ravioli, Lentil Puree and Black Truffle

Whole Roasted Guinea Hen, Asparagus, Ramps and Black Truffle

Artisan Cheeses

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1977
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1981
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1983
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1984
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Intistieti
 </td>
 <td>
 87
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1986
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Intistieti
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1992
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Intistieti
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1993
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1993
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1994
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1995
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Intistieti Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1995
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1997
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Dom Pérignon Rosé
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1975
 </td>
 <td>
 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Roederer Cristal
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Charles Hiedsieck Cuvée Charlie
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Piper-Hiedsieck Cuvée Rare
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Dom Ruinart
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Krug
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Salon
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Deutz
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1979
 </td>
 <td>
 Diebolt-Vallois
 </td>
 <td>
 86
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1961
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1958
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1958
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1955
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1980
 </td>
 <td>
 Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vielles Vignes
 </td>
 <td>
 95</td></tr></tbody></table>

--Antonio Galloni

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