<a target="_blank" href="http://www.aifiorinyc.com/">Ai Fiori</a>

Langham
Place

400 5th
Ave #2

New
York, NY 10018

Tel. +1
212 613-8660

Wines:

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 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2011+Terlano+Sauvignon+quarz&amp;wine_filter%5Barticle_id%5D=&amp;commit=Search&amp;wine_filter%5Bproducer_id%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bvintage_range_min%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bvintage_range_max%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bscore_range_min%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bscore_range_max%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bprice_range_min%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bprice_range_max%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Breview_date_year_range_min%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Breview_date_year_range_max%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bcolor%5D=&amp;wine_filter%5Bcountry%5D=">2011 Terlano Sauvignon Quarz</a>
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 91
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 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2008+Giuseppe+Rinaldi+Barolo+Brunate+Le+Coste">2008 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate/Le Coste</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
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 97
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<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1399649471505-AFWines+-+article.jpg"> Food:

Fluke Crudo; American Sturgeon Caviar,
Meyer Lemon

Vitello Tonnato; Crispy Veal Sweetbreads, Tonnato Aioli,
Turnips, Veal Jus 

Trofie
Nere; Ligurian Crustacean Ragù, Seppia, Scallops, Spiced
Mollica 

Corzetti; Lobster, English Peas, Chanterelle
Mushrooms, Tarragon

Branzino; Seared Squid, Artichokes Barigoule, Arugula, Lemon

It’s always great to go back to Ai Fiori, which has become one
of my favorites over the last year. This recent dinner was full of highlights.

Set in the Langham Hotel, Ai Fiori presents a slightly different
take on the fish and seafood inspired cuisine Chef and Proprietor Michael White
offers at his original flagship restaurant, Marea. The overall ambience is a
bit more relaxed because of the size of the room, while service is attentive
yet never overdone. Our dinner was superb from start to finish.

I never miss the fluke crudo. The interplay between the fluke,
caviar and lemon is so simple, yet so delicious. Ai Fiori’s ‘Vitello Tonnato’
is a liberal take on a Piedmontese classic. I am not a huge fan of sweetbreads,
but here, served fried with tonnato aioli, they are superb. Both of our pastas
are fabulous. The trofie nere is one of my personal favorites and worth a visit
alone. Michael White has a way of bringing incredible depth to his pasta
dishes. The sweet shellfish ragù and spiced breadcrumbs are bursting with intensity and
texture, while the squid ink trofie are cooked perfectly. I could have easily
had seconds. Deeper, earthier nuances abound in the corzetti, a sort of ravioli
filled with lobster and English peas and topped with a rich Chanterelle infused
cream sauce. The branzino with seared squid and artichokes is another delicious, well
done dish, although I have to say on this night the pastas were the highlights.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1399649429096-AFTrofie.jpg"> Trofie Nere; Ligurian Crustacean Ragù, Seppia, Scallops, Spiced
Mollica 

Terlano’s 2011 Sauvignon Quarz&nbsp;is gorgeous. The warm, precocious vintage produced a Quartz built on
texture and volume that pairs beautifully with the rich, layered flavors in our first courses. There
is plenty of varietal nuance in the glass, but with more amplitude and breadth
than is typically the case. Quarz is one of the great Alto Adige Sauvignons,
and the 2011 is a perfect vintage to drink now. Once again, Terlano delivers
the goods.

I very much want my guests to experience the joy of an epic,
traditionally made Barolo. What could be better than Beppe Rinaldi’s 2008 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste? An exotic
bouquet of lavender, violets and rose petals lifts from the glass. The wine is
utterly mesmerizing from the very first taste. Over the last few months, the
2008 has begun to shut down a little, but not enough to detract from its
extraordinary beauty. Vivid and totally alive in the glass, the 2008 Barolo
Brunate/Le Coste is simply dazzling. Mission accomplished.

-- Antonio Galloni

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