<a target="_blank" href="http://www.selosse-lesavises.com/champagne-hotel-retaurant/">Hôtel
Restaurant Les Avisés</a>

59
Rue de Cramant&nbsp;

51190
Avize, France

Tel.
+1 33 326 577 006

Food:

Foie
gras terrine; pickled red onions, arugula, Chioggia (not pictured)

Monkfish
cheeks; black rice risotto, bouillabaisse crème<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1371159435179-LesAvises+2.jpg"> 

Double
entrecôte of beef; Jerusalem artichoke mousseline, quince confit<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1371159447801-LesAvises+3.jpg"> 

Sangria-poached
pears; oriental mandarin, ice cream&nbsp;(not pictured)

Several
years ago, Anselme Selosse took me to see a massive construction site that was
to become a luxury hotel and home to his new cellar. His plan for a small hotel
and restaurant in the center of Avize was hugely ambitious. What else is new? Anselme
Selosse remains one of the most revolutionary producers in Champagne. Along the
way, Selosse has also influenced countless other growers, a part of his legacy
that may very well prove to be the longest lasting and most profound. 

Les
Avisés is very much a family affair. Selosse and his wife, Corinne, have
created a style of elegance that also has an element of intimacy and less of
the stuffiness one sometimes sees in Champagne. Every detail reflects total
attention and passion for the very best; from the chocolates in the rooms to
the artisan fruit juices served at breakfast. A stay at Les Avisés is also the
best way for wine lovers to visit the domaine, which is otherwise hard to do. Tastings
for hotel guests are held Saturday mornings and Monday afternoons, but the
schedule can change, so confirming ahead is always a good idea. 

Stéphane
Rossillon and his wife run the small restaurant. I have been following Rossillon
since the days when Les Avisés was still in its developmental stages. Rossillon
is a rare breed; a French chef whose cooking is driven more by seasonal
ingredients rather than by technique. The restaurant has one communal table and
a few smaller tables. Hotel guests have priority, but diners who aren’t staying
in the hotel can eat in the restaurant if space is available. Every day the
menu is hand-written on a chalkboard. One set menu is offered for everyone, so
Les Avisés is not the best choice for picky eaters. Every meal I have had at Les
Avisés has been superb. The wine list has an excellent choice of Selosse
Champagnes, along with wines from producers with whom Selosse has a personal
affinity. There are plenty of great choices to tempt diners, including many
hard to find grower Champagnes, as well as selections from a number of
top-notch properties.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1371159495993-LesAvises+1.jpg"> 

My
most recent dinner was another in a series of fabulous meals at Les Avisés. The
foie gras terrine, such a staple of French cuisine, was elevated by sheer
attention to detail and the perfection of all of the accompaniments. There was
no wasted motion here. I loved the monkfish cheeks with black rice risotto, a
dish that shows Rossillon at his finest. The double entrecôte of beef was
cooked a perfect medium-rare and full of flavor. I don’t usually eat dessert,
but how could I pass on the poached pears? I couldn’t. I did skip wine, though,
as I rarely drink with meals when I am on tasting trips. What would I have had?
Maybe a personal favorite, Selosse’s Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos, or an older
vintage of Domaine&nbsp;de Trévallon, or maybe Soldera’s Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva. The options are many. 

Every
region has places where wine people tend to gravitate. Les Avisés is one of
those places. The hospitality and food are superb, a visit to the domaine is a
rare treat, and the location, right in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, could
not be better. Anselme and Corinne Selosse can add Les Avisés to their
brilliant track r<a target="_blank"></a>ecord of successes.&nbsp;

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