<a target="_blank" href="http://www.marzapaneroma.com/">Marzapane</a>

Via Velletri, 39

00198 Roma, Italy+39 06 6478 1692

Food:

Mini zucchini escabeche, small
corn on the cob, fried red mullet and melted sweet red onions

Tortellini in capon broth with
a ganache of Parmigiano

Pasta with egg and
guanciale “Carbonara 2013”Churrasco y chimichurri (IGP
lamb with chicory, hot pepper and chimichurri sauce) Citrus Variations Wines: 

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2007 Guido Marsella Fiano di Avellino
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=Damiano+Ciolli+2010">2010 Damiano Ciolli Cesanese di
 Olevano Romano Cirsium</a> &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

Marzapane is as far removed
from classic Roman dining spots such as Armando al Pantheon, Arcangelo, Roscioli or
Settembrini as you could imagine. Then again, it has also been the hottest
restaurant opening in Rome of the last year and a half. The place enjoyed
wonderful word-of-mouth praise when it was still a small, extremely likable
neighborhood bistro, but its reputation
grew further among food and wine conoscenti following a summer renovation.
Owner Mario Sansone (whose wife Sunhee is fast becoming a well known, sought
after classic pianist) and his partners also bought out the fastfood place next
door, thereby allowing for a few more tables, a necessity given Marzapane's perennially booked status. In other words, should you wish to have dinner here,
don’t forget to reserve, and better to do so a week ahead.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1424455357349-carbonara+2.JPG">Pasta with egg and guanciale “Carbonara 2013” And while Marzapane’s
Carbonara has been voted the city’s best, one-upping other famous renditions,
the restaurant’s cuisine is eclectic by Rome’s standards, and not so
recognizably Italian&nbsp; in scope. Young Alba
Esteve Ruiz, recently named Italian emerging chef of the year in 2014, lets her
Spanish roots shine through with dishes such as Churrasco with chimichurri and
tocinillo de cielo, and many flavor juxtapositions and ingredient combinations
not in any way typical of Italy’s many varied cuisines. Still, it all seems to
work.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1424455428093-churrasco+2.JPG"> 

Churrasco with chimichurri&nbsp;Marzapane’s wine list is also
commendable and very well thought out. This may well be the first place in
Italy to have two pages devoted just to Italian Rieslings, and another devoted
to Rieslings from other countries, a truly great idea given that grape
variety’s and wine’s food-friendliness. Spanish wines from interesting
producers are also starting to appear, and given the food, it’s probably a good
idea; furthermore, such wines are unfindable anywhere else in Italy since Ruiz
brings them in directly from Spain. The rest of the wine list is simple and
short, characterized by wines by mostly small and at times cultish producers,
eschewing most of Italy’s larger estates.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1424455600089-vino+4.JPG"> 

On my night here, I started
things off with a spectacular 2007 Guido
Marsella Fiano di Avellino. A hot vintage, but the wine is gloriously ripe
and rich, with obvious diesel fuel and smoked rubber notes typical of warm
climate Fiano. Mercifully, laser-like acidity helps the wine stay focused,
providing clarity and welcome cut. It matched heavenly with the red mullet
starter and the unbelievably rich, “don’t tell my cardiologist I ate this” Carbonara. Damiano Ciolli is Lazio’s best producer of Cesanese wines: both his
entry-level Silene and the top of the line Cirsium bottling (made from roughly
90 year old vines) are standouts. On this day the 2010&nbsp;Damiano Ciolli&nbsp;Cirsium
Cesanese di Olevano Romano, one of Italy’s best kept secrets, impressed
me a little less than usual, marked as it was by atypical dark berry and violet
aromas and flavors and showing less of the red cherry, sweet spice and creamy,
almost Amarone-like richness this wine is known for. Still, it was remarkably
pure and clean, and delivered lots of flavor and punch for its low asking
price.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1424455466765-dolcelimone.JPG"> Citrus VariationsI finished the evening off with Citrus Variations,&nbsp;a new and welcome
addition to a much improved dessert list that had, in the past, offered too
many rich, heavy sweets and very little in the way of refreshment and
lightness. Many foodies and experts alike view Marzapane as one of Rome’s top 15 spots in which
to dine. You may find yourself agreeing or not, but it is undoubtedly a great
new addition to a city where the food scene is anything but adventurous.&nbsp;--Ian D'Agata

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social