La Paulée (Part 3)

Gala Dinner

March 2009

The Gala Dinner was a fitting culmination to an
extraordinary weekend of tastings and events dedicated to the glories of
Burgundy. Guests were seated alongside winemakers at long, communal tables that
paid homage to La Pauleé’s origins as an after-harvest celebration.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1379215631585-1.jpg">

In keeping with tradition, diners brought wines from their
own cellars to share with friends and fellow table mates. The number of
exceedingly rare bottles that made the rounds was truly breathtaking. All of
the wines were meticulously served by the finest sommeliers in the country, no
small feat considering the hundreds of bottles of wines that were opened,
tasted and ultimately drunk.

The multi-course menu was prepared by a world-class team of
chefs that included Daniel Boulud (Daniel), Michel Troisgros (Troisgros), Paul
Liebrandt (Corton), Grégory Pugin (Veritas) and Thomas Preti (Events to Savor).
The highlight of the Gala Dinner was Chef Pugin’s profound Lobster Nage, which
was even better at La Paulée than it was when I had it at Veritas a few weeks
later! I also adored Chef Liebrandt’s Foie Gras with Beet-Hibiscus Gelée and
Blood Orange, which was incredibly delicious. Any of these dishes would have
been perfectly at home in the world’s top restaurants; that they were so
skillfully prepared for 300+ people is truly amazing.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1379215658883-2.jpg">

We were very fortunate to have John Ragan, Wine Director at
Eleven Madison Park, one of New York’s very finest restaurants, as the
sommelier at our table. Cédric
Bouchard’s 2004 Blanc de Blancs Haute-Lemblée was a great way to start the
night. Soaring aromatics melded into sublime layers of perfumed fruit as this
supremely elegant wine opened up in the glass. This remains one of my favorite
Champagnes of the last year. Among the whites, I was especially taken with a Lafon’s 1991 Meursault-Charmes and Meursault-Perrières which were models
of elegance and precision. The Perrières had a touch more minerality and
freshness, but both wines were extraordinary. Coche-Dury's&nbsp;1994 Meursault Rougeots was rich, expansive and sweet. Ramonet’s 1999 Montrachet was floral,
minty and spiced, with tons of energy and vibrancy. It was superb.

Leflaive’s 2001
Bâtard-Montrachet (magnum) was intensely sweet, layered and pure. Served
alongside the Lobster Nage, it was pure magic. The estate’s 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillons was
a much simpler wine by comparison, but its soft-textured generous fruit was
impossible not to love. Domaine de la
Romanée-Conti’s 1993 Montrachet was a rather shy, introspective version of
this wine, but offered tons of balance in a supple style. Ramonet’s 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet was another wine endowed with
staggering energy, focus and brilliance. It was simply majestic.

The 2006
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières from Leflaive
was layered, rich and weighty, with tons of character, while Sauzet’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Referts
showed more of a flinty, mineral-drivern personality. Both were beautiful. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 1973
Montrachet was all bacon fat, minerals and smoke. It was an intriguing
bottle, but a bit past its peak for my taste.

A bottle of de
Vogüé’s 1999 Bonnes Mares (from my cellar) was corked, which was
heartbreaking as the wine was otherwise intact and full of fruit. Méo-Camuzet’s 1985 Vosne-Romanée Aux
Brûlées was deeply spiced, with pretty layers of perfumed fruit. Mugneret’s 1985 Clos de Vougeot was
more advanced in its minty, floral red fruit. Still the wine showed lovely
depth considering its age. The 1915
Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots was quirky and unsual, to say the least. The
wine revealed tons of fruit in a rich, earthy style that made it impossible to
believe it was only Pinot and/or 80+ years old. The 1999 Bonnes Mares from Domaine
D’Auvenay was intoxicating for its sheer richness, concentration and
purity. The wine’s balance and length were head-spinning.

Imagine my surprise when I came back to my table and found a
generous glass of Domaine de la
Romanée-Conti’s 1978 La Tâche (methusaleh) waiting for me! This was a
monumentally structured, dense and full-bodied wine loaded with flavor, exotic
spices and personality. The 1952
Romanée-Conti (jeroboam) was even better. This youthful wine revealed
incredible clarity and precision, with a long, eternal finish that I won’t soon
forget. The 1985 Roumier Bonnes Mares
(magnum) was another gorgeous, sweeping wine loaded with perfumed fruit.
This magnum was a remarkably fresh, vibrant example of 1985 Bonnes Mares. Mugneret-Gibourg’s 1995 Echézeaux offered up
lovely purity to its fruit with notable power and focus.

I couldn’t resist bringing a few gems from Piedmont to mix
in with the Burgundies. Bruno Giacosa’s
1964 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano showed beautifully in this context,
with endless layers of perfumed fruit. It was great to see the expression one
people’s faces when they saw the name of the wine they had just tasted. One
person, whose palate I respect immensely, was sure it was a wine from Domaine
Leroy! Giacomo Conterno’s 1971 Barolo
Riserva Monfortino was extraordinary for its power and the sheer integrity
of its fruit. It was a truly remarkable example of one of the world’s icon
wines. With that, another great Paulée had come to a close, but not before a
number of monumental bottles had been enjoyed with some of the most sumptuous
food on the planet in the spirit of friendship, generosity and camaraderie that
the great wines of Burgundy inspire.&nbsp; 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1379215697130-3.jpg">

Food:

Canapés; Mushroom and Sunchoke Tortellini, Ahi Tuna Tartare,
Fresh Herb &amp; Lime Cured Salmon, Sliced Duck on Potato &amp; Celery Root
Pancakes

Foie Gras; Beet-Bibiscus Gelée, Blood Orange

Lobster Nage; Vin Jaune, Rutabaga, Butternut Squash,
Chestnuts

Charlotte à la Truffe et Coco

Coq au Chambertin; Wild Mushroom &amp; Lardons

Plateau de Fromage: Pyrenées Brebis, Morbier, Cantalet

Bittersweet Chocolate Coupe Glacée; Griotte-Cardamom &amp;
Morello Cherry Fromage Blanc Sorbet

Wine:&nbsp;

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2004
 </td>
 <td>
 Cédric Bouchard Blanc de Blancs Haut-Lamblée
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault-Charmes
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1991
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault-Perrières
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1994
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury Meursault Rougeots
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2001
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillons
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1993
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2004
 </td>
 <td>
 Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2006
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Folatières
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2006
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Referts
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1973
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1973
 </td>
 <td>
 Henri Clerc Bâtard-Montrachet
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine George Mugneret Clos de Vougeot
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1915
 </td>
 <td>
 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1999
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine D’Auvenay Bonnes Mares
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche (methusaleh)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1952
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti (jeroboam)
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1995
 </td>
 <td>
 Mugneret-Gibourg Echézeaux (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1971
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
 </td>
 <td>
 97</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Photos: Copyright Thomas Schauer]

--Antonio Galloni

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social