I returned to Japan for the first time after five years and visited a number of restaurants with a view to composing articles for Vinous Table. Rather than launching straight into the first, I thought it better to offer a primer for the uninitiated, perhaps something that might encourage readers to stop enjoying Japan’s cuisine vicariously and visit the country. It aims to serve as a very simple guide and give a few pointers and tips for navigating what can be a disorientating place. Like everywhere, there are tourist traps and pitfalls to avoid. Those living in Japan will have a far better knowledge of the contemporary dining scene, so I must stress that this article is based on my personal experience.