Japan Gastronomy: A Primer

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 05, 2024

“I love Tokyo. If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it. Most chefs I know would agree with me…” – Anthony Bourdain.

Japan is inseparable from its gastronomy. It is a society, in the truest expression of that word, that lives to eat. Apologies to Spain, Italy and, of course, my Gallic friends, but there is no culinary equal. Forget the fact it is one of only two countries whose entire culinary heritage is recognized by UNESCO. Japan may lie behind France in the number of Michelin stars, but hey, home advantage.

Underlying Japanese cuisine is a single word…care. In an era when restaurants seem more concerned about their looks and social media presence than the quality of food, to wit, style over substance, in Japan, care underlies everything from mom ‘n pop noodle bars to deluxe destination restaurants, an ethos that extends to sourcing, preparation, artistry, plating and service. To an outsider, this can be interpreted as obsession, and that’s not far from the truth. Japan’s fixation with cuisine is ingrained from childhood. Students learn about cooking, maintaining balanced diets, nutrition and the importance of seasonality from an early age. School canteens are renowned for their kyushoku (給食), lunches that serve a wide array of top-notch Japanese dishes or meticulously prepared bento boxes instead of the soggy Dickensian gruel served in the UK.

There is only one way to really appreciate Japan’s gastronomic landscape. No, not to queue up outside Wagamama, but board that plane and experience it first-hand. Once you’ve made it to Japan, look around and count the number of places to eat. You’ll find yourself surrounded by tempting places, eateries occupying multiple floors of single buildings and alleys that reward those who venture off the beaten path.

Let me throw a number at you…

137,000.

That’s the estimated number of restaurants in Tokyo alone. That compares to between 23,000 and 24,000 in New York and London (pre-COVID). However, locals advised that there has been a reduction of izakaya (居酒屋), ostensibly the Japanese bistro, after the pandemic. According to one source, the number of places to eat in Japan has decreased from 1,424,000 to 935,000 in 2023. That remains a dizzying figure to comprehend.

Living in Japan in the mid-nineties, I assumed gentrification would sweep away the countless cubby-hole bars and counters, interstitial watering holes and eateries that occupy every available valuable nook and cranny in a metropolis where space is a scarce resource. Miraculously, in 2023, it was patently clear that they are thriving and remain the lifeblood of Japan. Practically everywhere I travel, I see places heaving with diners for lunch and dinner, queues snaking out of doorways when word gets out about a hot new place to dine.

I returned to Japan for the first time after five years and visited a number of restaurants with a view to composing articles for Vinous Table. Rather than launching straight into the first, I thought it better to offer a primer for the uninitiated, perhaps something that might encourage readers to stop enjoying Japan’s cuisine vicariously and visit the country. It aims to serve as a very simple guide and give a few pointers and tips for navigating what can be a disorientating place. Like everywhere, there are tourist traps and pitfalls to avoid. Those living in Japan will have a far better knowledge of the contemporary dining scene, so I must stress that this article is based on my personal experience.