Gyo-kaijin

920-0981 Ishikawa

Kanazawa

Katamachi

2 Chome−2−25 1F

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Assorted sashimi platter: sea urchin, squid, sea bream, tuna and king prawn

Blackthroat sea perch (nodoguro) with bonito flakes

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Gyo-kaijin encapsulates everything life-affirming about Japan’s dining scene. It is inexpensive, has impeccable service, a lively ambiance and, most of all, a standard of cuisine that you have to eat to believe. It was a serendipitous discovery, but knowing Japan as I do, I recognize that there were probably half a dozen other establishments lurking around the corner that would blow my mind and my tastebuds in a similar fashion.