<a target="_blank" href="http://www.aifiorinyc.com/">Ai Fiori</a>

400 5th Avenue #2

New York, NY 10018(212) 613-8660

Food:

Fluke
crudo; American sturgeon caviar, Meyer lemon

Spaghetti;
blue crab, lemon, bottarga, chilies

Pork
shoulder ravioli; cacio e pepe

Agnolotti;
braised veal parcels, butternut squash, sage, black truffle sugo

Olive
oil poached striped bass; baby fennel à la grecque, razor clam vinaigrette

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=2006+L%C3%A9clapart+Blanc+de+Blancs+L%E2%80%99Ap%C3%B4tre">NV
 (2006) David Léclapart Blanc de Blancs L’Apôtre</a> 
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1998+Chave+Hermitage+Blanc">1998
 Chave Hermitage Blanc</a> 
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=2004+Giuseppe+Rinaldi+Barolo+Cannubi">2004
 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;search-filter=reviews&amp;q=1997+Giuseppe+Mascarello+Barolo+Riserva+Monprivato+Ca%E2%80%99+d%E2%80%99Morissio">1997
 Giuseppe Mascarello &amp; Figlio Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca’ d’Morissio</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 95</td></tr></tbody></table>

The
tried and true never disappoints at Ai Fiori, Michael White’s outpost in the
Langham Hotel in mid-town Manhattan. Ai Fiori’s fluke crudo, generously topped
with American sturgeon caviar, is a great way to start lunch. Three shared
pastas follow, the best of which is the spaghetti with blue crab, lemon,
bottarga and chilies. My olive oil poached bass is perfectly cooked and has
enough intensity to pair beautifully with all the wines on the table, with the
exception of the 1997 Mascarello Barolo, but, then again,&nbsp;that would be too much to ask for.
As always, service is top-notch.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1418420990404-ai+Fiori+Crudo+vinous.jpg">

Fluke crudo; American sturgeon
caviar, Meyer lemon

David
Léclapart’s NV (2006) Blanc de Blancs
L’Apôtre is a real stunner. I have had mixed experiences with Léclapart’s
Champagnes in the past, but the 2006 L’Apôtre is marvelous. Rich, ample and
burnished in the glass, the 2006 is built on serious structure, with subtle
notes of pastry, pear, dried flowers and spice that add resonance. What a gorgeous Champagne. I wish I had more opportunities to drink Hermitage Blanc, as I adore the wines,
especially with some bottle age. Chave’s 1998
is distinctly ripe and tropical in style. Peach, apricot pit, savory herbs,
honey and mint emerge, but it is the wine’s racy, extroverted personality that
is front and center. I imagine the 1998 will drink well for a number of years
to come, although I don’t expect to see it improve materially. Still, the 1998
is very pretty, especially in the way its raciness pairs with the bold, lusty
flavors of our pastas.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1418420958226-AiFiori+Wines.jpg"> 

Giuseppe
Rinaldi’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi (San
Lorenzo)/Ravera is an unexpected treat on this otherwise dreary Manhattan
winter day. Aromatically lifted, the 2004 remains quite fresh and brilliant in
its flavors. The 2004 is a decidedly lithe, mid-weight Barolo from Rinaldi that
will age on its vibrant acidity rather than structure. There is a lot to like
in this delicate, feminine Barolo. The 2004 can be drink today or cellared for
at least another 10-15 years. A much deeper, richer wine, the 1997 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca’
d’Morissio from Giuseppe Mascarello captures the essence of the year to the
fullest. Dark red stone fruit, spice, leather and espresso notes blossom in a
rich, unctuous wine with a demi-glace like sense of unctuosity. The 1997 is
starting to present the first signs of tertiary complexity, and won’t last
forever, but it is beautiful today. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1418420941106-ai+Fiori+fish+vinous.jpg"> Olive oil poached striped bass;
baby fennel à la grecque, razor clam vinaigrette

Sadly,
the outside world and all of its chaos beckons, but this delicious lunch provides
a few hours of much needed tranquility in an otherwise pretty hectic week.

--
Antonio Galloni

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