Le Lion d’Or 

11 Rte de Pauillac

33460 Arcins,

France

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Pheasant maison terrine

Lièvre à la royale (royal hare) with truffle tagliatelle

The Wine:

2016 Mauvésin Barton - 91

There is a restaurant nearby whose doors you never entered, whose food you have never eaten. Over time, familiarity bred indifference. Every time you walked or drove past, you rebuffed its silent entreaties beckoning you inside. Eventually, indifference metastasized into scorn. You ignored it for so many years that the reason for your apathy has been long forgotten. In any case, its proximity insinuates that its cuisine is substandard. After all, the clue is in the phrase…destination restaurants. We travel afar to be rewarded with fine dishes. The journey is part of the dining experience, building anticipation, and you don’t get that by nipping ‘round the corner for a bite.  

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Le Lion d’Or is unapologetically traditional and a little quirky. This is hearty, stomach-filling French food that cares little for fad or fashion. That’s why I fell in love with it.