Le Lion d’Or
11 Rte de Pauillac
33460 Arcins,
France
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The Food:
Pheasant maison terrine
Lièvre à la royale (royal hare) with truffle tagliatelle
The Wine:
2016 Mauvésin Barton - 91
There is a restaurant nearby whose doors you never entered, whose food you have never eaten. Over time, familiarity bred indifference. Every time you walked or drove past, you rebuffed its silent entreaties beckoning you inside. Eventually, indifference metastasized into scorn. You ignored it for so many years that the reason for your apathy has been long forgotten. In any case, its proximity insinuates that its cuisine is substandard. After all, the clue is in the phrase…destination restaurants. We travel afar to be rewarded with fine dishes. The journey is part of the dining experience, building anticipation, and you don’t get that by nipping ‘round the corner for a bite.