<a target="_blank" href="https://thestandardcph.dk/en/restaurant/studio/">Studio at the Standard</a>

Havnegade 44,

1058 København, Denmark

Tel. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.google.com/search?ei=gDDHXPP8BPHjsAfIpJG4Aw&amp;q=STUDIO+AT+THE+STANDARD+COPENHAGEN&amp;oq=STUDIO+AT+THE+STANDARD+COPENHAGEN&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i203j0i22i30.2273122.2279493..2279961...1.0..1.234.3512.22j8j3......0....1..gws-wiz.....6..0i71j35i39j0i131j0j0i22i10i30j0i8i13i30.OIMAoi3zADw">+45 72 14 88 08</a>

BY IAN D'AGATA | MAY 24, 2019 The Food:

Veal tartare, ramsons, bonito

Sorrel, fermented crème fraîche, dried caviar

Grilled heart, sorrel, jalapeño

Churro, cheese, truffle

Scallop ceviche, apple, coriander

Squid, gooseberries, kaffir lime

Lobster, passion fruit, chili

Rabbit, celeriac, hazelnut

Lamb, ricotta, peas

Blood orange, bay leaf, olive

Almond, cep, balsamic vinegar

The Wines:














<table>

 <tbody><tr>
 <td>NV Pierre
 Peters Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve&nbsp; &nbsp;</td>
 <td>92</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2014 Thomas Haag Riesling
 Kabinett</td>
 <td>92</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2017 Meinklang Harslevelü
 Somiò</td>
 <td>92</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2015 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir
 Moonlight Race</td>
 <td>90</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2015&nbsp;&nbsp;Pittnauer St.Laurent&nbsp; Dorflagen</td>
 <td>89</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2017 Domaine de la Butte
 Bourgueil</td>
 <td>91</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2018 Seehof Westhofen Auslese
 Rheinhessen</td>
 <td>93</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2010 Chateau Piada Barsac</td>
 <td>90</td>
 </tr>

</tbody></table>

Some restaurants ought to be taken as a template by
all those wishing to open up their own kitchen. Studio at the Standard is one
such place, where the food, wine, decor and service are just about as on the
spot as you could expect them to be. The very trendy, hip, modernist-looking upstairs
dining room is spacious and bright, not to mention always packed (there’s
another, more easy-going, less expensive dining alternative on the ground
floor). Yet the food and wines arrive in fairly prompt fashion, the perfectly
coordinated team of chefs and sous-chefs in the open kitchen working well with
the young, friendly and competent dining room staff. The wine service is just
as commendable; quiet, unobtrusive sommeliers know what they’re doing and
talking about, and are also quick and efficient at their jobs. Factor in the beautiful,
refined location with bay windows overlooking the water and surrounding the
well-behaved, happy dining patrons at 180 degrees, and it all adds up to a wonderful
combination of magical setting, great cuisine and wines, and smooth,
professional service.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1558707870784-Churro%2C+cheese%2C+truffle_copy.jpg"> Churro, cheese, truffle 

On this night I chose the tasting menu, and it offered
one interesting sequence of dishes after another. I wouldn’t venture so far as to
say that each and every dish was especially noteworthy, and some actually
didn’t strike me as being all that memorable. For example, the large amount of crème
fraîche overwhelmed the sorrel and fermented crème fraîche appetizer, and the dried
caviar only added salt and not much else to a generally so-so dish. But that
was really the only creation that left me nonplussed; everything else was quite
fine and at times stellar, starting with the churro married to an exceptionally
fragrant black truffle (fragrance not exactly being a strong suit of most black
truffles served in the world today, many of which are not the more perfumed Tuber melanosporum but other species of similar-looking
but lower-quality black truffles). The best dishes of the night were the three
fish entrées, especially the lobster, where the kaffir lime sang a tune of
delightful perfume, lift and precision. I will also mention the last dessert, the
combination of almond, cep, and balsamic vinegar, which was pure joy. I
normally shy away from such rich concoctions at a meal’s close, finding they tend
to weigh down already long and heavy tasting menus. But this dessert’s flavor
juxtapositions, and its concentration and nuances, worked extremely well together
and had me digging in.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1558707803293-Scallop+ceviche%2C+apple%2C+coriander_copy2.jpg"> Scallop ceviche, apple, coriander

Thanks to the finely tuned service by sommeliers Lau Christian
Thorne and Sachim Shaddy, assisted by young and enthusiastic Chiara Angioi, who
was very knowledgeable about the restaurant’s wine list and producers (always a
commendable sign in someone just starting her sommelier career), the wine flowed
smoothly and effortlessly all night long. Choices, both very famous and
little-known, abound on the wine list, where Krug, DRC, Soldera and Ramonet
share quarters with other wines made from little-known varieties. As always
when I encounter such a treasure trove of outstanding potables, I look for under-the-radar
stuff that might prove interesting. And so it was this time. I kicked things
off with the always delectable NV Pierre
Peters Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve, which is about as good
as any aperitif worth having. Precise and penetrating, showing sneaky
concentration and depth to its white stone and orchard fruit, it makes a
piercing, lifted start to a meal and actually matched more or less perfectly
with the first three courses. An absolute winner is the delightful 2014 Thomas Haag Riesling Kabinett,
surprisingly unctuous and rich but with enough acidity to make it seem less
rich and sweet than it really is. The honeyed and lemony aromas and flavors
were perfect with the ceviche, and turned the squid and lobster dishes into
more earthy, savory-accented dishes. Actually, the 2017 Meinklang Harslevelü Somiò proved an even better match with these
two courses, the harmonious acid lift of both wine and food being heightened by
this very successful pairing. The Harslevelü became deeper and fruitier when
tasted along with the lobster (by itself, the wine was a touch too steely and
austere).<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1558707836604-Rabbit%2C+celeriac%2C+hazelnut_copy.jpg"> Rabbit, celeriac, hazelnut

The 2015 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Moonlight Race from
Central Otago and the 2015 Pittnauer St. Laurent Dorflagen were polar
opposites in taste: dainty and delicate the former, dense and savory the
latter. On their own, there is no contest, as the Pinot Noir is delightful,
brimming with juicy nuanced sour red cherry and berry fruit flavors lifted by a
welcome floral top note. By contrast, the St. Laurent is denser and thicker on
the palate, but finishes just a little too bitter and overly herbal, at least
on its own. But the magic of food and wine pairing is such that matched with
the rabbit dish, the St. Laurent actually performs better than the Pinot Noir,
as it develops into a smoother, more balanced and no longer bitter quaff, while
the delicate Pinot Noir ends up overwhelmed by the dish’s strong flavors. But someone
else might feel differently; both wines were in fact fine matches with the two
meat dishes. In the ultimate analysis, the red wine that probably paired best
with the lamb dish was the 2017 Domaine
de la Butte Bourgueil. Leafy and pungent on its own, with a considerable
dose of greenness lashing out at every sip, it morphed into a suave, rich, red-fruit-accented
drink when tasted along with the lamb and ricotta dish.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1558707634964-Lamb%2C+ricotta%2C+peas_copy.jpg"> Lamb, ricotta, peas

I closed things out with what turned out to be the two
best, or perhaps most enjoyable, wines of the night. First came the rich and
very sweet yet wonderfully light-on-its-feet 2018 Seehof Westhofen Auslese Rheinhessen, an ode to what all
Auslese ought to be: hints of noble rot, lemon and peach galore, a solid dose
of honey to sweeten and smooth things out, and interminable length. By
comparison, the 100% Sémillon 2010 Chateau
Piada Barsac was positively thick and dense, but harmonious and possessed
of sneaky complexity provided by noble-rot-affected Sémillon grapes – a grape/fungus
partnership made in heaven. I cannot stress enough how many great wines with
strong percentages of Sémillon emerge from Sauternes, Barsac, Cadillac,
Saussignac and the other denominations of this specific part of Bordeaux, which
is not only a land of exceptional beauty but also a true sweet wine heaven for
all those so inclined.&nbsp;At evening’s end, after all that food and wine, I admit to staggering out of
the restaurant feeling as if I had overdone it; in fact, I remember realizing
much the same thing as my meal was moving along, but it was all so good, I just
couldn’t stop myself.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1558707951075-The+wines_copy2.jpg"> And there’s the rub. Unfortunately, things are a-changin’
at the Studio, with acting head chef (though still officially only sous-chef)
Max Osborne leaving to return to his native Great Britain, where he is
interviewing for the­ head chef position at least one noteworthy dining address.
Happily, the rest of the cooking team, including acting sous-chefs Francesco
Mascellari (who has trained in multi-award-winning spots such as Casa
Perbellini in Verona and Udine’s Agli Amici) and Benjamin Hurley are staying on
to give some continuity when new head chef Alan Bates arrives. I guess this means
I’ll have to come back in a few months to try the new menu and meet the new
ringleader. Yes, mine really is a dirty and difficult job, but you know,
somebody’s gotta do it.&nbsp;

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