<a target="_blank" href="https://www.langottoristorante.com/">Ristorante Langotto</a>

Via Giordano 8, Novello

12060 (CN) Italy

Tel. +39 (0)173
731193

BY ANTONIO GALLONI&nbsp;|&nbsp;SEPTEMBER 20, 2024The Food:

The Salad: A Niçoise arrived in Piedmont; Egg, Tomato, Olives,
Anchovies

Plin: Traditional Agnolotti Served In a Napkin

Pasta Bossolasco Spaghettone: Clams, Nettles, Carpione
Beurre Blanc

Peach Carpaccio: Light Syrup, Vanilla Ice Cream

The Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>1982 Bruno
 Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
 <td class="wysiwyg-text-align-right">99</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1982 Soldera Brunello di
 Montalcino</td>
 <td class="wysiwyg-text-align-right">97</td>
 </tr></tbody></table>Readers traveling to Piedmont will find a dining scene
replete with everything from informal wine bars to starred fine-dining
establishments and everything in between. Eating and drinking in Piedmont is
literally an embarrassment of riches. Even if one wanted to eat lunch and
dinner out every day for a week (which might require packing extra-comfortable
clothes), hitting all the top spots is impossible. I tend to prefer the
classics, but over the last few years Langotto has become a favorite on those
nights when I want to branch out.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851073753-Starter_AGVTSep202024.jpg">The Salad: A Niçoise arrived in Piedmont; Egg, Tomato,
Olives, Anchovies 

Langotto is in Novello, in the space formerly occupied by
Grecale. The intimate dining room is elegant, with minimalist lines and décor.
Tables are nicely set apart, which adds to a relaxed ambience. Chef-Owner Otto
Lucà offers a menu comprised of classics, some reimagined, and more creative
dishes influenced by the years spent working in Alsace. It’s a fun,
whimsical combination that works quite well and also differentiates Langotto
from other restaurants in the region. Lucà’s partner, Elisa Andreotti, runs the
front of the house. Andreotti worked at a number of top establishments in
Italy, gaining her sommelier credentials along the way. Together, Otto and
Andreotti convey the passion and warmth that are such signatures of Italian
hospitality.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851088517-Agnolotti_AGVTSep202024.jpg">Plin: Traditional Agnolotti Served In a Napkin 

Dinner starts with the obligatory pretzel and some tasty
amuse-bouches. Breads, all made in house, are irresistible. The deconstructed Niçoise
Salad is perfect for this late summer evening. Sardines, both fried and in
olive oil, take the place of tuna in a dish that is as delicious as it is
visually arresting. It's a classic Otto&nbsp;Lucà&nbsp;dish that marries classicism with
innovation without going overboard. As much as I want to try new things, I have
weak spot for the standards of the Piedmontese kitchen. We split a portion of
the Angolotti del Plin, which is enough for me to get my fix. At Langotto, the
agnolotti are served unseasoned, on a napkin, in the most traditional of
presentations.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851102566-Spaghettone_AGVTSep202024.jpg">Pasta Bossolasco Spaghettone: Clams, Nettles, Carpione
Beurre Blanc 

I love the Spaghettone Mantecato alle Vongole. The spaghettone is served perfectly al dente, the wider shape of the pasta an ideal canvas for bold, lusty flavors that once again meld together the expected with the unexpected.&nbsp;Carpione beurre blanc, derived from
the traditional Piedmontese vinegard-based preparation used to marinate fish, adds a kick of acids, while drops of nettles sauce add aromatic intensity.
Fabulous.&nbsp;Langotto has a terrific wine list, especially notable for a
restaurant of this size. Novello is featured, which is great to see. I wish
more restaurateurs had a similar approach to showcasing local producers. Guests
will find plenty of cherries on this list, including some of Piedmont’s most
coveted bottles, many of them at very reasonable prices. On this night, my dear
friend Il Professore brought two spectacular bottles to share. How could I say
no? Nineteen eighty-two is one of my favorite vintages in Italy. I have always
loved the wines for their energy and slightly linear, focused build. Both
bottles were magnificent, something that is exceptionally rare with wines of
this age in today’s world.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851285870-WINE_VTSep202024.jpg">Bruno Giacosa’s 1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda is
off the charts. What a bottle. Sweet, perfumed and haunting in its beauty, the
1982 is mesmerizing. Its understated depth and total finesse are nearly
impossible to describe with words. Giacosa crafted Barolos of total seduction.
The 1982 Riserva Collina Rionda remains one of his undisputed masterpieces.
This is one of the very best bottles I have had. Readers who have tasted the
1982 know how special it is. Unfortunately, finding great bottles today is next
to impossible. There is no upside to holding bottles any longer. Readers lucky
enough to own the 1982 will want to enjoy it soon. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851326080-Giacosa_VTSep202024.jpg">The gorgeous translucence of Bruno Giacosa's 1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda.In my view, the 1982 Brunello di Montalcino is
Gianfranco Soldera’s first important wine, the first wine that gives a hint as
to the style that would come together more fully in future vintages. Still deep
and virile, the 1982 is magnificent from the very first taste. From there, it
only grows in presence and stature. Like so many Soldera wines, the 1982 gives
the impression it could last another decade, maybe more. It’s a fabulous early
masterpiece from Brunello’s greatest exponent. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1726851131769-Peaches_AGVTSep202024.jpg">Peach Carpaccio: Light Syrup, Vanilla Ice Cream 

Succulent late-season peaches, served in a tartare, marinated in a light syrup, and
topped with vanilla ice cream, is my kind of dessert. It’s a tasty and refreshing
conclusion to this delicious dinner.

Vinous readers planning a trip to Piedmont will want to pay
a visit to Langotto. Reservations are essential, especially in the upcoming
fall season. I can’t wait to go back.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social