L’Atelier de Joël
Robuchon [Closed]

The Four Seasons
Hotel

57 East 57th Street

New York, NY 10022

tel (212) 758 – 7500

fax (212) 758 – 5711

June 2007

My wife and I recently enjoyed a spectacular dinner at
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon located in the Four Seasons Hotel in New York. We
ordered the tasting menu, which consisted of a series of small tasting portions
that allowed us to sample a broad range of dishes, all of which were superb.
What I loved most about the food was the way each and every ingredient had a
purpose and clearly-articulated voice. Tasting these dishes was a like hearing
a world-class orchestra in the concert hall, where every nuance and detail
comes alive with crisp, precise detail. Highlights included the eggplant caviar
which was accompanied by incredibly flavorful spring vegetables. The sea urchin
with fennel broth was seductive, sweet and unforgettable. It was followed by a
perfectly cooked and seasoned poached cod fillet that was a pure joy to eat. The
rich and intensely flavored Kobe beef was a delicious close to the savory
dishes. Dessert can so often be a let-down in restaurants, but once again, all
of the flavors and textures were well-articulated and beautifully executed.
Readers who have an opportunity to eat at L’Atelier should not pass it up, this
is one of New York’s greatest dining experiences!

We started with Bruno
Paillard’s NV Brut Premier Cuvée. It was a soft, creamy-textured wine that
paired well with our first courses. Fresh from a trip to France, we were in the
mood for a Burgundy. We were also curious to taste something from the 2005
vintage given all the accolades my colleague David Schildknecht and others have
bestowed on the wines. We chose Anne
Gros’ 2005 Chambolle Musigny la Combe d'Orveaux. It was a gorgeous wine,
shimmering with sweet fruit and perfumed aromatics that carried through to the
finish. Beautifully supple and expressive, it worked well with all the courses
and provided immense pleasure.

Food:

Fresh langoustine carpaccio

Eggplant caviar with crisp spring vegetables

Sea urchin royal with warm fennel broth

Seared foie gras with gratinated grapefruit

Poached cod fillet with a virgin basil oil

Pan – fried Kobe beef with a green salad

Almond panna cotta with a strawberry-tomato confit and a
strawberry cappuccino

Rice pudding with caramelized apple and rosemary ice cream

Wine:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 NV
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Paillard Brut Premier Cuvée
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2005
 </td>
 <td>
 Anne Gros Chambolle Musigny la Combe d'Orveaux
 </td>
 <td>
 90</td></tr></tbody></table>

--Antonio Galloni

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