<a target="_blank" href="http://www.ristoranteloscudiero.com/">Lo Scudiero</a>

Via Filippo Turati, 7

90139 Palermo, Italy

Tel. +39 091 581628

Food:

Babbaluci (baby snails)

Panelle (chick pea fritters)

Linguine alla Mediterranea; calamari, eggplant, cherry
tomatoes, wild fennel

Grilled red mullet

Dessert cart

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2013 Passopisciaro Guardiola &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2013 Feudo Montoni Grillo 
 </td>
 <td>
 88</td></tr></tbody></table>

Located in the heart of Palermo, Lo Scudiero is an oasis of
calm in a city that can at times be overwhelming. I have been eating at Lo
Scudiero for about as long as I can remember. This fabulous lunch brought back
many memories. Proprietor Giuseppe di Maria continues the rich tradition of
hospitality established by his father, Gaetano, who ran Lo Scudiero for many
years.

Visitors will find a menu that showcases local fish and
seafood, along with a menu rich in the classics. The wine list is solid by
Sicilian standards. Although it would be nice to see a more adventurous selection
of artisan wines, I can also understand that local demand might not support an
ambitious wine program. 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1438298793795-Scudiero2+-+Copy.jpg">

Babbaluci (baby
snails)

Lunch starts with a few Sicilian classics. Panelle (chick
pea fritters) are a staple of Sicilian street food. It is unusual to see
panelle served in a restaurant, but they are delicious and gone quickly. Several
plates of Babbaluci, the small, baby snail that is traditionally served at the
festival of Santa Rosalia that honors Palermo’s patron saint follow. We missed
the festival, but not the snails. They are fabulous. Sadly, these staples of
the local kitchen are starting to disappear as people lead busier lives and
have less time to cook. What a joy it is to rediscover these very local,
authentic flavors.

The Linguine alla Mediterranea is a welcome departure from
the more classic fish and seafood pasta dishes that are often found on Sicilian
menus. Rich, bold flavors abound, while the linguine is very much al dente. I confess I had a bite (maybe
two) of my daughter’s Linguine alle Vongole, which was also delicious. I adore
grilled red mullet, but it is hard to find, especially prepared well. An
intensely flavorful fish, red mullet has a lot of bones, but the end result is
very much worth the effort. 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1438298809256-Scudiero1+-+Copy.jpg">

Linguine alla
Mediterranea; calamari, eggplant, cherry tomatoes, wild fennel

Passopisciaro’s 2013 Guardiola
is 100% Chardonnay grown 1,000 meters above sea level on the slopes of the
Etna. A rich, phenolic white, the Guardiola is intensely mineral, with real
signatures of place but less in the way of varietal nuance. Still, the
Guardiola is compelling and we go through two bottles pretty quickly. Feudo
Montoni’s 2013 Grillo is a pretty,
aromatic white, but it is a simpler wine and ideally should have been served
before the Passopisciaro. On this scorching hot day, though, the wine’s
freshness is quite welcome.

Lo Scudiero’s dessert cart is full of classics that
highlight Palermo’s rich tradition in pastry. The almond and pistachio cake is
delicious, as is the tiramisù, which disappears in an instant, but
the Cassata Siciliana is too sweet for my taste.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1438298784645-Scudiero3+-+Copy.jpg">

Grilled red mullet

Although off the beaten track, Palermo is one of Italy’s
most fascinating cities in Italy, with layers of Norman, Arab and Spanish (among
other) influences that are woven throughout its rich cultural fabric. The
Teatro Massimo, Palazzo dei Normanni &amp; Cappella Palatina, the Cathedral and a
host of other sights are all worth a visit. Lo Scudiero is the perfect place to
take a break from the pace of the city and enjoy a simple but well-prepared
meal.

-- Antonio Galloni

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