&nbsp;

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.bouludsud.com">Boulud
Sud</a>

20 West 64th Street

New York, NY 10023

+1 (212) 595-1313

Wines:<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1971+Dom+Ruinart+Ros%C3%A9">1971 Dom Ruinart Rosé</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1971+Dom+Ruinart">1971 Dom Ruinart</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1979+Dom+Ruinart+rose">1979 Dom Ruinart Rosé</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1979+Dom+Ruinart">1979 Dom Ruinart</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1983+Roumier+Bonnes+Mares">1983 G. Roumier Bonnes-Mares</a> &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=2006+Soldera+Toscana+Sangiovese">2006 Soldera Toscana Sangiovese</a> &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1961+Haut-Brion">1961 Haut-Brion</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1961+La+Mission+Haut-Brion">1961 La Mission Haut-Brion</a>
 </td>
 <td>
 100</td></tr></tbody></table>Food: 

Mediterranean Mezze; Spicy Moroccan Hummus, Herb Falafel,
Babaganoush

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta; Tapenade Duo

Gambas al Ajillo; Ruby Red Shrimp, Spanish Chili, Focaccia

Octopus a la Plancha;  Marcona Almonds, Arugula, Jerez Vinegar

Cous Cous Crusted Halibut; Ramps, Spring Carrots, Za’atar Nage

Cannolo;  Ricotta Cream, Olive Oil Sponge, Madarin-Prosecco Sorbet

 This fabulous dinner at Boulud Sud gave us an opportunity to
check in on a handful of iconic, reference-point wines that define the essence
of greatness. 

Boulud Sud features Daniel Boulud’s take on Mediterranean
cuisine. A veritable melting pot of cultures comes together in food that reflects
deep influences of northern Africa, Spain and southern France. The dishes are
rich and deeply flavored, but also simple, a combination that is not easy to
pull off. We start with the Mediterranean mezze an assortment of hummus,
falafel and babaganoush served with flatbread that is almost enough for a meal.
Gambas al ajillo and octopus a la plancha are flavorful takes on Spanish
classics. My cous cous-crusted halibut is absolutely delicious. As for the
wines, well, they are stratospheric.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1400891647824-Halibut2.jpg"> Cous Cous Crusted Halibut;  Ramps, Spring Carrots, Za’atar Nage

The 1971 Dom Ruinart Rosé
is surprisingly deep, powerful and vinous. Sweet rose petal and crushed berry
notes add complexity, but the 1971 Rosé is ultimately a wine of pure textural
breadth. What a remarkable Champagne this is. Smoke, tobacco and wild herbs are
some of the notes found in the 1971 Dom
Ruinart. Another rich, powerful Champagne, the 1971 still has plenty of
depth, if not quite the finesse of the Rosé. The 1979 Dom Ruinart Rosé is such a contrast to the 1971. Here the
flavors are almost impossibly lifted and refined. Weightless and a totally
polished Champagne, the 1979 Rosé is a real treat to taste, and, more
importantly, drink! The 1979 Dom Ruinart
impresses for its energy and tension, both signatures of this great Champagne
vintage. Nuanced and beautifully articulate to the core, the 1979 is
magnificent tonight. Well-stored bottles will continue to drink well for at
least another handful of years. The pure vibrancy of the fruit is remarkable. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1400891669427-Ruinart2.jpg"> One of the wines of the
night

Roumier’s 1983
Bonnes-Mares, from a very challenging harvest, is gorgeous. Autumn leaves,
sweet tobacco and dark fruit notes abound in a Burgundy that is mostly resolved
today, but in a great place to deliver maximum pleasure. Well-stored bottles
will keep for at least a few more years, although there is no upside from
further cellaring. Soldera’s 2006
Toscana Sangiovese races from the glass with intense, pulsating fruit.
Deep, rich and impeccably textured, the 2006 simply dazzles from the moment it
is opened. Rose petal, dark red stone fruits and sweet spices linger on the
silky, impeccable finish. This is a great showing from the 2006. An
exhilarating wine, the 2006 Toscana Sangiovese will drink well for many, many
years.

The 1961 Haut-Brion
boasts unreal depth and richness. Smoke, game and scorched earth nuances abound
in an explosive, viscerally thrilling wine that takes hold of the senses and
never lets up. An immortal wine, the 1961 is simply magnificent. What else can
I say? The 1961 La Mission Haut-Brion
is even better. Layered and racy throughout, the La Mission leaves us
speechless. Hints of violet, leather and sage add nuance over time, but it is
the wine’s texture that is spellbinding. The rich, exuberant finish is simply
unforgettable. What a treat it is to drink these two icons side by side.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1400891711149-Bordeaux2.jpg"> Two Bordeaux icons&nbsp;&nbsp; 

I don’t have a huge sweet tooth, but I can’t resist sampling of
few of the desserts that are passed around the table as the evening winds down.
My favorite is the cannolo, which brings back memories of many childhood summers
spent in Sicily. Wine
is the center of attention on this night, but that does not in any way minimize
just how delicious the food is at Boulud Sud. I can’t wait to go back…

-- Antonio Galloni

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