Il Calandrino

Via Liguria, 1 3 5030


Sarmeola di Rubano,
Padova 

tel +39 049 630303, 

fax +39 049 633000

April 2009

This impromptu lunch at Il Calandrino was a nice reward
after several bruising days tasting Amarone from cask. Il Calandrino is the
informal café that is part of Le Calandre, one of the few restaurants in Italy
with three Michelin stars. Le Calandre is improbably located in an industrial
neighborhood outside Padova, about 15-20 minutes from either of the two Padova
exits on the Milano-Venezia Autostrada. This temple to gastronomy also includes
a bakery, butcher shop and even a hotel for travelers who need a rest before
proceeding on their itineraries. Il Calandrino serves a casual, yet impeccable
menu available throughout the day, with both a la carte and tasting menus. Our
lunch was fantastic, and the service – so often a weak spot in Italy – was
incredibly friendly as well as professional.

The fresh tomato soup with ricotta and scampi was simply
delectable, as all the flavors came together with unusual grace. It was the
perfect way to start a lunch. The tagliatelle with prosciutto and peas was a
nod to a classic dish, and it was pulled off to perfection. I loved the
barbecued pork spare ribs, partly because it was such a radical change from the
more local cuisine we had enjoyed on this trip. The meat literally fell off the
bone and the seasonings were perfect.

Il Calandrino offers the same extensive wine list as Le
Calandre. Readers will find no shortage of choices when it comes to the great
bottles of Italy and abroad. We opted for the 2001 Ornellaia, as I had a big tasting of that estate’s wines
coming up, and I wanted to be prepared. This is my kind of homework, I thought.
Our sommelier was extremely well versed in the wine’s grape composition and
élevage. The wine was beautiful as it opened in the glass to reveal layers of
mocha-infused dark fruit, spices, leather and minerals. Though still quite
fresh and firm, the wine also showed enough tertiary nuances to offer a complete
drinking experience at this stage. My impression from this and other tastings
was that the 2001 should last another decade or so. It was a gorgeous red from
Tuscany’s Maremma.

We finished the 2001 Ornellaia with a selection of artisan
cheeses served alongside an array of homemade jams and jellies. So often
dessert can be a let-down, but not here. Our strawberry, mango and passion
fruit sorbet was so delicious words can’t possibly do it justice. Let me just
say it was simply perfect, and that is coming from someone who is not a huge
dessert person. Readers who have a chance to stop at this food Mecca should
absolutely not hesitate. The quality throughout is worthy of 100-point rating!
I can’t wait to return.&nbsp;

Food:&nbsp;

Fresh tomato soup with oregano, ricotta and scampi

Veal carpaccio 

Tagliatelle with prosciutto and peas 

Pork spare ribs with barbecue sauce and roasted potatoes

Artisan cheeses 

Strawberry, mango and passion fruit sorbet with an
almond-mint foam&nbsp;

Wine:

2001&nbsp;&nbsp; Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 95

--Antonio Galloni

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