<a target="_blank" href="http://www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com/">The Four Seasons Restaurant</a>

99
East 52nd Street

New
York, NY 10022

Tel.
+1 (212) 754 - 9494

I don’t get to the Four Seasons as
much as I used to, but it remains one of my very favorite restaurants in New
York City. For the three years I worked at Deutsche Bank my office looked out
over the entrance of this Manhattan landmark. After 50 years the Pool Room is
still one of the City’s most striking and romantic dining rooms. The Four Seasons
was one of the places I did many of my early tastings for The Wine Advocate.
Even today, I look forward to a meal at the Four Seasons with much anticipation
because the room evokes so many memories.

But back to this lunch. And what a
lunch it was. A dear friend had saved a bottle of the 1985 Sassicaia to share, and that was the impetus for getting
together. Although I have had the 1985 Sassicaia a number of times I have never
been totally convinced. This bottle did it for me. It was as perfect as anything
can be in this world. Still fresh, perfumed and full of life, the wine showed
incredible detail and pedigree in a dazzling expression of class. To say it was
profound would be an understatement. Life changing is more like it. Those who
have bestowed the 1985 with the highest of praise must have surely tasted
bottles like this one. Incredibly, a bottle of Giacomo Conterno’s 1985 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was next. What a
privilege it was to drink – not just taste – these two wines side by side. It
was a crummy, rainy Friday in New York City, with streets totally snarled in
traffic because of President Obama’s visit. If ever there was a day to take a
little more time at lunch, this was it. The 1985 is a fabulous Monfortino to
drink today. This bottle was exceptional. Bruno
Giacosa’s 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano completed this trio of
profound Italian reds. It was soft, sensual and delicate. In other words: a
sublime, mature Barbaresco from Bruno Giacosa.

Although much of our focus was on
the wines, the food and service were equally stellar. The octopus appetizer was
full of robust, smoky flavors that complemented the wines beautifully. The
white truffle risotto was spectacular. Thankfully, the portion was on the small
side, as the Four Seasons’s version is particularly rich. No complaints from
me, though. By the time the tuna was served I was focused on the 1985 Santo
Stefano, which paired beautifully with the fish and its accompaniments. I
usually skip dessert, but I couldn’t resist a taste of the Devil’s Food Cake
with milk chocolate ice cream.

Food:

Grilled Octopus, White Beans,
Arugula Salad 

White truffle risotto 

Grilled Tuna, Roasted Fennel with
Feta, Black Olive Tapenade

Devil’s Food Cake with Milk
Chocolate Ice Cream&nbsp;

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
 </td>
 <td>
 100
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva
 Monfortino
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva
 Santo Stefano
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

-- Antonio Galloni [Cover photo and credit:&nbsp;Four Seasons restaurant, New York]

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