<a target="_blank" href="http://elevenmadisonpark.com/">Eleven Madison Park</a> 

11 Madison Ave,

New York, NY 10010

(212) 889-0905

I didn’t really know what to expect when I arrived for this
dinner at Eleven Madison Park, except that Executive Chef Daniel Humm would be
preparing a tasting menu specifically for our table. That was more than enough.
As long-time readers know, Eleven Madison is one of my favorite restaurants on
the planet. This dinner, though, seemed to take things to another level. So
many dishes were spectacular, including the Sterling Royal Caviar, Diver
Scallop Ceviche, Nova Scotia Lobster, Bouillabaisse, “Winter in Provence,” and
the Blue Foot Chicken. As always, there was an effortless, graceful quality to
the way all of the flavors came together on the plate. It didn’t hurt that a
number of courses were generously topped off with delicious black truffles!
Despite all of the complexity in these preparations, the food paired
beautifully with our wines. This was a virtuosic display of pure creativity,
skill and artistry from Humm and his team. Service was first-class; always
attentive but never intrusive.

Jacques Selosse’s NV
Brut Blanc de Blancs Initiale (disgorged Jan. 18, 2008) was a great way to
kick off the evening. This energetic, vibrant wine impressed for its
combination of voluminous, richly-textured fruit and zesty freshness. It was an
impeccable, totally first-rate Champagne. Raveneau’s
1996 Chablis Blanchots emerged from the glass with an intoxicating array of
smoke, minerals and incense, all of which added considerable complexity to the
fat, almost-tropical fruit. This was a flat-out great bottle of white Burgundy.
The 1989 Chassagne- Montrachet Ruchottes
from Ramonet was almost certainly
the victim of less than ideal storage at some point in its life. I adored the 1983 Haut-Brion Blanc for its perfumed
layers of open-knit, expressive fruit. The wine was at a beautiful place in its
life, with considerable freshness considering its age.

Jadot’s 1985 Gevrey
Chambertin Clos St. Jacques showed great density and richness, along with a
compelling, generous personality. It was a pure joy to drink. Bruno Giacosa’s 1982 Barolo Villero,
from my cellar, was a bit of a shock after the Jadot. Still muscular and
powerful, the Villero offered up plenty of red fruit, leather, minerals and
spices in a powerful, sinewy expression of this vineyard. Roberto Voerzio’s 1990 Barolo Brunate was a knock-out. Impeccably
round, silky tannins framed a dark core of fruit. This enveloping, round Barolo
was totally convincing in its balance. Sadly, we didn’t have good luck with Voerzio’s 1990 Barolo Cerequio, which
was the victim of a faulty cork, while the 1982
Monfortino from Giacomo Conterno
was oxidized.

After great Pinot and Nebbiolo, Syrah was the next logical
place to go. Jaboulet’s 1966 Hermitage
La Chapelle was seamless, ripe and round, with breathtaking inner perfume
and phenomenal balance. Though fully mature, there was a timelessness to this
wine that is hard to fully capture with words. The 1983 Hermitage (magnum) from Chave
was simply beautiful. A graceful, impeccable bouquet melded into a sublime,
expressive core of fruit. Roasted coffee beans, tar and licorice lingered on
the elegant finish. This was a magical bottle.

The 1990 Margaux
was impressive for its sheer richness and weight, but it also came across as an
infant, and in need of quite a bit of further cellaring (!) as it was not at
all expressive. The 1990 Haut-Brion
emerged from the glass with sublime layers of sweet tobacco, incense, licorice and
dark fruit. The bouquet was intensely fragrant and carried through all the way
to the silky finish. Though not a powerhouse, the 1990 Haut-Brion was drop-dead gorgeous.

Food:

Hors d’œuvres

Sterling Royal Caviar; Spheres of Smoked Sturgeon and Salmon
Cream

Diver Scallop Ceviche with Fennel, Yuzu and Satsuma
Tangerine

Foie Gras Mille-Feuille with Big Eye Tuna and Watercress

Nova Scotia Lobster Poached with Daikon Radish, Winter
Citrus and Avocado Oil 

Bouillabaisse; Dover Sole with Mussels, Bay Scallops,
Hawaiian Prawns and Chorizo

Everglades Frogs’ Legs Sautéed with Parsley and Porcini
Custard Black Truffle Beignet with Truffle Remoulade

&nbsp;“Winter in Provence”
Black Truffles, Chèvre Frais and Potatoes

Four Story Hill Sweetbreads Sautéed with Artichokes, Black
Truffles and Smoked Marble Potatoes

Blue Foot Chicken; Roasted with Meyer Lemon, Rosemary and
Black Truffles “Soda Pop” Tangerine, Grapefruit, Pomelo and Lemon 

Milk &amp; Chocolate Variations of Flavor and Texture 

Mignardises

Wine:&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 NV
 </td>
 <td>
 Jacques Selosse Brut Blanc de Blancs Initiale
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996
 </td>
 <td>
 Raveneau Chablis Blanchots
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Ruchottes
 </td>
 <td>
 89
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1983
 </td>
 <td>
 Haut-Brion Blanc
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985
 </td>
 <td>
 Jadot Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1966
 </td>
 <td>
 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1983
 </td>
 <td>
 Chave Hermitage (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Chateau Margaux
 </td>
 <td>
 95+
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Chateau Haut-Brion
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

&nbsp;--Antonio Galloni

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