L'Expression

11 Rue Maufoux

21200 Beaune, France

Tel. +33 3 80 80 05
89

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 14, 2020The Food:

Scallop carpaccio; avocado cream, lime, coriander

Roasted monkfish, lobster, sweet potatoesPears; roasted apples, dried grapes, chestnut cream sabayon, Cognac

The Wine:&nbsp;

2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Clos du Verseuil 1er Cru &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;92&nbsp;

L'Expression is a welcome addition to the dining scene in
Beaune. Guests will recognize Damien Ravion and Jérémy Brisset from the time
they worked together at the Bistro de L'Hôtel de Beaune. At L’Expression, Ravion
and Brisset offer a seasonal menu with updated bistro classics and a handful of
more modern creations, all done in a pure, ingredient-driven style that is hugely
appealing. Ravion and Brisset spent years building their wine&nbsp;program, and that&nbsp;allowed them to open with an unreal selection&nbsp;for a new restaurant. I have eaten at L’Expression twice since it opened
last year and came away&nbsp;deeply impressed on both occasions. 
<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1581708479846-Carpaccio.jpg"> 

Scallop carpaccio; avocado cream, lime, coriander.

The first time I dined at L’Expression I sat in the back room
with friends. On this night, I was by myself so I opted for the bar. That
turned out to be a great spot to watch Ravion and his assistant turn out
a number of tantalizing dishes. The scallop carpaccio was brilliant in its
simplicity and purity. A more elaborate preparation, the seared monkfish was
served over a bed of lobster and sweet potatoes, then finished off with a decadent
lobster bisque. The rich, bold flavors screamed for red wine. I very much
enjoyed Thibaud Clerget’s 2017 Volnay Clos du Verseuil&nbsp;1er Cru. It’s a
lighter vintage for Clerget, so I was not surprised to see the&nbsp;Clos du Verseuil&nbsp;showing so
well. I especially admired the wine’s focus and delineation. Classic Volnay.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1581710793259-monkfish_use.jpg"> Roasted monkfish, lobster, sweet potatoes. 

The table next to me enjoyed the braised beef rib,
accompanied with roasted vegetables, and the steamed line-caught sea bass,
topped with orange, grapefruit segments, capers, tomatoes and lemon. Both looked amazing
coming out of the kitchen. The beef and sea bass are served family style and are
said to serve two. I don’t think I know two people who could have finished
those platters!<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1581708639734-Collage.png"> Left: Braised beef rib, accompanied with roasted
vegetables. Right: Damien Ravion plates the steamed line-caught sea bass, served
with orange, grapefruit, capers, tomatoes and lemon. 

Dessert is really not my thing most of the time, but I frankly
did not want to leave the coziness of L’Expression, knowing the only thing that
awaited me was a ton of emails, so I had the pear dessert, which was
light and not too sweet, in other words, right up my alley.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1581708521414-BarSeat.jpg"> 

A seat at the bar is the perfect place to watch the
action unfold at L’Expression.

Readers visiting Beaune should make a point to stop by L’Expression. Food and wine are both terrific, and the location just a few
steps off the Place Carnot is incredibly convenient. It’s a small restaurant,
so booking ahead is absolutely essential. I can't wait to go back.

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