<a target="_blank" href="http://theprogress-sf.com/">The Progress</a>

1525 Fillmore Street

San Francisco, CA
94115

+1 415 673 1294

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 19, 2024The Food:

Caviar Potato Cloud

Hokkaido Scallop Crudo; Avocado, Pear, Pomegranate

Tierra Vegetables Masa Dumplings; Toma Cheese, Huiltacoche
Crema

Radicchio &amp; Persimmon; Aged Gouda, Turnip, Hazelnuts

Lightly Smoked Sweet Potatoes; Cauliflower Mushroom
Conserva, Nuts, Seed

Bbq Half Duck; Peanut Fried Rice, Smoked Chile Vinegar

Clove Sugared Beignets; Honey Cocoa Ice Cream, Spiced Balsamic,
Tart Cherries

Crème Fraîche Plum Swirl Ice Cream Cake; Maple Caramel, Gochujang
Pecans

‘World Peace’ Peanut Milk

The Wines:

2020 Tyler
Chardonnay Mae Estate&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 94
&nbsp;

2009 Giuseppe
Rinaldi Barolo Brunate&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 97&nbsp;&nbsp;

This fabulous dinner was a nice break from my recent
tastings of new releases from Sonoma. COVID-19 disrupted so many routines,
including what used to be frequent trips to San Francisco. As readers know, the
city has changed in recent years as it grapples with deep economic and social
issues. Even so, San Francisco is a city I love.

The Progress is located in the historic Fillmore District,
just next to State Bird Provisions, which is also owned and operated by Stuart Brioza
and Nicole Krasinski. The spacious dining room with high ceilings occupies two
floors and features simple but well-adorned tables. The restaurant is packed,
and the vibe is energetic. I was surprised my friend was able to snag a
reservation at the last minute. “I built a bot that searches for last-minute
cancellations at all the restaurants I want to go to,” he told me. “It’s just
for me and a few friends.” Of course. I have one of those, too. Well, not
exactly. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713541952329-IMG_7299_copu+%281%29.jpg">Caviar Potato CloudThe menu is divided into three sections: Vegetables Mostly,
Western Additions, and Fish and Meat Mains, all of which are focused on locally
sourced ingredients. After a day of tasting, I don’t feel like making
decisions, so we just order a number of dishes to try, an approach that works
well as everything is served family style. The Caviar Potato Cloud, one of the
signature dishes here, is a great way to start dinner. Spooning through the
appropriately named potato cloud reveals a divine morsel of sweet, briny
caviar. Hokkaido scallop crudo is something I could eat every day. Avocado
lends texture, while pear and pomegranate add brightness and crunch. Divine. 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542102722-IMG_7328_copy.jpg">

Hokkaido Scallop Crudo; Avocado, Pear, Pomegranate

I don’t think I have ever had radicchio and persimmons
before. It’s a combination that works beautifully in a hearty, rustic winter
salad enhanced by aged gouda and hazelnuts. The masa dumplings, with &nbsp;bold, earthy flavors and distinct Mexican
inflections, is another dish that hits the spot on this cold January evening.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542138606-IMG_7339_copy.jpg">

Radicchio &amp; Persimmon; Aged Gouda, Turnip, Hazelnuts

The Progress has a terrific wine program. Rebholz,
Jolie-Laide, Cobb and Ca’ di Press are among the producers offered by the
glass. Options by the bottle are wide-ranging. There are so many wines on this
list I want to drink. For those who want to splurge, there are plenty of iconic
bottles to choose from, most of them reasonably priced in today’s context. I
must say, the cocktails look tempting, too. Ultimately, I go for something my
friend is not familiar with, Tyler Chardonnay from the new Mae Estate in the
Sta. Rita Hills. I have long believed that, despite the Pinot Noir craze,
Chardonnay is the variety that is best suited for the Sta. Rita Hills. This wine,
from a recently planted vineyard, shows why. Aromatic and deeply textured, the 2020
Chardonnay Mae Estate captures all the dynamic, citrus and mineral-infused
energy of Justin Willett’s new estate vineyard. Fabulous.

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542175728-IMG_7354_copy.jpg">

Bbq Half Duck; Peanut Fried Rice, Smoked Chile Vinegar

The piece de resistance arrives a few minutes after we send
these plates back to the kitchen bare. It is the famed Bbq Half Duck, served
with peanut-fried rice and smoked Chile vinegar. What can I say other than this
is one of the most divine dishes I have eaten this year. The presentation of
thinly sliced, perfectly cooked breast meat and whole leg is stunning, and yet
that is only a prelude to the symphony of flavors and textures that reveal
themselves with each bite. “I think I over-ordered,” my friend says.
“Impossible,” I reply. Even so, readers should be warned the duck is a very
generous portion, probably enough for an entire meal, although passing on the
rest of the menu would be a crime. Smoked sweet potatoes on the side are an ideal accompaniment.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713543321141-TheProgress_Wines2.jpg"> For the main course, I brought a bottle of 2009 Giuseppe Rinaldi
Barolo Brunate from my cellar. This is the pure Brunate, a wine the
Rinaldis bottle for themselves and one longstanding private customer whom I
have been fortunate to get to know over the years. I chose this wine because my
dining companion has visited the estate, knows Barolo intimately, and has
access to pretty much any wine he wants. But not this bottle. That, to me, is
the joy of having a cellar. Being able to choose a wine someone else has never
had and might never have. The 2009 is divine. I can’t say I am surprised, as a
recent bottle was every bit as compelling. Soaring aromatics and bright,
red-toned fruit are immediately alluring. In the glass, the 2009 displays
uncanny freshness, especially for a fifteen-year-old Barolo from a warm,
challenging vintage. This is pure and total seduction. The perfect wine for the
right moment.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713544110965-Clove+Sugared+Beignets+the+progress+vinous.jpg">Clove Sugared Beignets with Honey Cocoa Ice Cream, Spiced Balsamic and Tart Cherries lead this trio of delicious desserts.

Desserts are suitably rich. I devour them all, but it is
hard to beat beignets, the ultimate comfort food, in my book. With that, I
returned to my tastings in Sonoma. My friend climbed into a self-driving Waymo,
one of several high-tech cars that made drop-offs and pickups nearby. It was
quite a sight.

The Progress has a place in that very rare category of
restaurants that are worth a trip alone. Food, service, wine and overall ambiance
all get top marks. I can’t recommend it highly enough.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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